Armor +wc

ricka05

Well , Finally got all my stuff together....I'm planing to put it in to TT armor-nice , huge case with good airflow....Plus got a dramel of the friend so will try to cut couple holes for leads and cables....Just need advise on WC setup-in which sequence join them together?
My gear:
WaterChill Extreme 12V DC Pump
CPU Cooler Antarctica
Black ICE-Pro II(dual)
SUB-ZERO ExodusTank Single 180
LICS Vision-Cor-Protector 1000ml
Fitings and cables.....

Asus a8n32
Amd x4200
I'm planing to fit rad at the front( ), pump will sit on the case base....will leave MB heat pipe it would be a pain to remove....



DSC01225.JPG

ricka05

Lets start...Got all my tools together-i hope wont need them all;)



Like i sad its a nice case with a lot space and openings for cables


Basically it left to cut another tree holes-cpu power , pciE , mobo pwr.


Safety first!!!!



Drilled out the corners and made a strait cuts to join them...next step is to send them properly to avoid damaging cables

unseen

hi ricka

Check some ideas from my friends with armor cases.




Good luck!

ricka05

Thanks Unseen , that's quite something what i had in mind....I just don't wont to do any cuts on outside panes.

ricka05

Ok next is tank .

For fitting used an aluminium strip , it took some time to polish it .Really happy with the results...

ricka05

Rad. Will fit it at the front , so i could keep my blue fan

ricka05

OMG :eek: :mad: looks like I'm gonna need a new rad....One of the holes come up a little toooooo deep..Drill went all way thru the fins...Its all over till komplett will deliver a new one:( ...
P.S.
Is there any way to fix it without loosing cooling performance?

unseen

Sorry for that...but you can fix it.
First way is to take some epoxy glue and put it to the hole. It worked for me in the past. If the hole is small then it will work for sure.
Another way is to repair it with big soldering iron (over 40watts) and solder it. First use sandpaper and then hot it well. With flux and solder you can do the job.
Thats all i can think for now.

Also i see many people put alcohol inside the watercooling loop for alge. You must NOT do the same. The tank will crack in a month if not the same day! Bad reaction with the plexy...

Keep going!

PogMoThoin

Get some Loctite Leak Fix epoxy. Should b able 2 find it in a good hardware store. Great stuff, used it b4 on a car rad & worked wonders.

ricka05

No , I'm afraid it cant be glued-bit went too deep-about30 -40mm. ordered a new one , should be delivered by friday...This time wont be drilling it-will make an aluminium cage to house it...;)
Anyway , a lot of stuff left to be dun -lap cpu block , extend usb , fan , lighting cables.

ricka05

OK ,back to business....rad came in , so I can move on...
While was waiting for it , did some cleaning on CPU block...


Before:
[URL="[url=http://xs.to][img]http://xs220.xs.to/xs220/07424/DSC01255.JPG[/img][/url]"][/url]

After:
[URL="[url=http://xs.to][img]http://xs220.xs.to/xs220/07424/DSC01256.JPG[/img][/url]"][/url]

ricka05

Rad.....Well I'm not gonna do same mistake twice , no more drilling...:D
Just made a simple aluminium frame.
[URL="[url=http://xs.to][img]http://xs220.xs.to/xs220/07424/DSC01257.JPG[/img][/url]"][/url]

Anti

Looking good man. But tell me. How do you get such a cheap ESB bill

ricka05

Its time to put it together....


Originally HD goes to the cage , in front of PSU , so basically it blocks the airflow . So bought these [IMG][/img]

Works as a heatsink + absorbs vibration....Fits in 5.25" bay

awhir

Anti wrote: »

Looking good man. But tell me. How do you get such a cheap ESB bill

???


looking good man nice job lapping the block also do the cpu if you want better temps.

tips :

make sure to leak test the system (tussiue or any thing that shows water)

also make sure to put anti corrosives in the loop and if you want to clean out ur rad with diluted viniger.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54331

ricka05

OMG :eek: Cables at the back looks awful... And ATX pwr cable has some thick sleeving , it makes it hard to bend......

ricka05

But at the front it totally different story...All i can say is , that all hassle has paid off....

[IMG][/img]

ricka05

Tissues...You must be kidding me..:eek:..
.The first time i powered pump ,CPU block was so leaking I started hysterically shout.. I had to get a cloth to clean it ..The CPU middle tube wasn't pushed deep enough.....Also i powered up UV cathodes so i could see leaks clearly.
Secondary , i fit a valve and T connector to make a draining easier , couldn't get a proper 1/4 inc capping so picked one @ BQ....That was the biggest mistake....cos it took half roll of teflon tape to stop it leaking.....



Hendrix89-you can see the side panel fan that i was talking about.....

awhir

why did you go for a t-line when u have res ?

Anti

awhir wrote: »

why did you go for a t-line when u have res ?

I was wondering that too.

ricka05

Well, I thought it would be easier to drain system.....I mean drain it completely....
What would be you recommendations??

awhir

would say it would be fine but wait for the guys to come and talk about water pressure and that stuf :rolleyes:

Anti

Dont get me started.....

awhir

na i ment nibble and the other watercooling guru's.

nibble

Lol, I'm hardly a guru andy... but I'd like to think I know a little bit.
It's always a good idea to have a drain line, avoids having to cut tubing to drain and all that trouble. And yeah it won't affect flow at all really, puttin' two in the new build.

ricka05

OK , finally running

P.S. No animals was harmed making this picture...
[IMG][/img]

results:
X2 4400@2430 (243*10) Vcore1.472CpuZ (1.415BIOS)
8 hours prime 95 on each core -40-41C (have some doubts about thermal paste-if no changes in temp will reapply)
Idle -36C
Fans are connected to zalman fan controller and set on low.... at full speed temp drops 1-2 degrees

next weekend will try to push further....