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Speaker Config & Cailbration - Tips n Tricks?

  • 19-10-2007 4:29pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,027 ✭✭✭


    Hi Everyone,

    I am the novice, and trying to get going in home cinema with my first separates set-up. I have an Onkyo 605 AMP, and KEF KHT3005 Speakers.

    I am looking for some tips or advice on how to figure out the best config, and calibration for my set-up ?

    I know/understand it comes down to my ears, but any advice, guidance, good websites, etc. welcome.

    I done the auto-setup with the AMP which worked, however it set crossovers, and calibration at various different levels for the speakers which I am not sure was a good thing. Sound wasn't that great for TV, although movies weren't bad once the volume was pushed up, to me at least.

    I them came across a post on another form for KEF 5005's (I think) which mentioned they had talked to Kef Support, who informed to set the crossover to 100hz for all speakers, and the LFE 80hz to 120hz (cnet recommended 120hz). They also suggested the calibration of 0db for fronts/surrounds, and +2db for center as a starting point. When I made these changes there was a immediate difference. :)

    I am now just wondering if any of you have any other fine-tuning tips to be shared ?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,323 ✭✭✭Slaphead07


    I presume the amp has a microphone or you connected a mic to it for that setup? Otherwise it's a bit pointless.

    The auto-setup is a starting point. Once done you should sit in the "sweet spot" - directly in front of the screen/centre speaker - and make whatever adjustments your ears tell you are correct.

    I've used software (on a laptop) to calibrate systems and I've also used my ears and to be honest they've always been pretty close results.

    Avoid the usual pitfalls of turning centre up too high and rears waaaaay too high - unless of course this is what you want!

    Keep in mind that your room is a component too so those suggestions from the manufacturer or from a website shouldn't be taken too seriously - unless they know the exact dimensions of your room, which would be scary.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,027 ✭✭✭eddiem74


    Yeah, used the mic for set-up, which went ok, it detected all speakers, etc. Also from a bit of browsing picked up on ensuring the back speakers are not to high.

    So I understand the calibration lets me adjust speaker volume, however how do I know that the crossover settings are right between the speakers, and Sub ? I am little confused on this :confused:

    Should the speaker crossover be higher/lower than the sub ? Should they be the same ? How can I tell ?

    Advice welcome..............thanks !


  • Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, RicherSounds.ie Moderator Posts: 2,505 Mod ✭✭✭✭The Ritz


    With your kit I'd check what settings the Auto Setup has arrived at - if you check the manual that came with the Onkyo, it will explain what the various setup menus mean. The manual gives a full explaanationof how to do a manual set-up (as opposed to using the auto setup with the mic) on page 70 onwards. I have no experience of auto-setups, and have read reports of different findings with different amps as to the dependability of them, but I know how to do a manual setup.

    I'd be inclined to check what level of crossover the amp has set - I'd be inclined to try 80hz with a sub-sat setup, that means that the amp would route anything under 80hz to your sub. As for levels, the auto setup can set the level output to the sub, but can't set the level of the sub itself. You can download "sweeps" - continuous tones which descend or ascend through the frequency range asa well as "test tones" so that you can check whether the level from all speakers is similar.

    It will also let you know fairly fast if there's a dead spot in your set-up - a frequency where the level is lower than the others, or conversely, a level which is higher then the others. The most accurate way to measure whether the levels are correct is to use a sound level meter, but for a non-critical setup experiment (where you can always go back to the auto setup), your ears will do fine. Google is your friend for test tones.

    Ritz


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,323 ✭✭✭Slaphead07


    here's a cut & paste of a post written by a mate from another forum... it might shed some light.


    Sub woofers intend to produce those low bass frequencies that most of the speakers can't handle.

    There are several technologies for Sub-Woofers however most of them are active, which means they have a built in amplifier (usually a digital amp- Class G) thus all they need is a signal at line level.
    Some Subs have also Speaker-Level inputs for those amplifiers that have no pre-outs.

    There are side-firing subs and there are down-firing subs. There are sealed boxes and there are vented ports boxes - each manufcturer decides wich design he thinks is better. From my experience, there are no rules, you can get good and bad subs in any design.

    Most subs have some adjustments like:
    - Volume - self explained.
    - Phase (variable or jusr 0 and 180) - to control the phase of the driver to match the front speakers.
    - Cross over - a variable control that sets the upper frequency of the sub.
    -On/Off/Stand By Switch.

    Low frequencies are less directional, i.e, it's more difficult for us to determine where they comming from, that's why usually one sub would be sufficient. On the other hand, since the weve lengths are longer - these frequencies are more prone to create standing waves (on certain conditions) which are a bad thing....

    positioning:

    Since the low frequencies are not directional the positioning won't effect the imaging or sound stage however since they are more prone to constractive and distractive interfearences, a good positioning will determine "how" the bass will sound at your listening position.

    The procedure for setting up the Sub would be:

    1. Set Phase to 0.
    2. Set Cross Over to a bit above the lowest frequency your main speakers can produce.
    3. Set volume to moderate or maybe a bit higher.
    4. Place the sub in your listening position.
    5. Get down on your knees and hands and start crowling around the room until you spot the place where the low frequencies sound the best (tight, punchy, not smeared...) - Warning !!! make sure no one is in the house or the guys with the white coats might come to pick you....
    6. Place the sub in that spot.
    7. Set the phase to the phase that sounds the best to you - there is no other way to set this without proper (expensive) measuring instruments.
    8. Set the volume so the sub won't be over heard, but in a way it just compliments the front speakers.
    9. You can play a bit with the cross-over frequency to make sure the front speakers and the sub are not too overlapping. Again- the scientific way to set this would be with an SPL meter but your ears will do.
    10. If your sub is connected to an A/V receiver to the Sub-Out, the cross over is set in the receiver - follow point 9.
    11. If you want the LFE (Low Frequency Effects) to be stronger, i. e more information will be sent to the Sub, I would recommend to set the speaker (in the Receiver's setup menu) to "small" (even if they are monster floorstanders) - in this way more low frequencies that were supposed to be heard from the main speakers will now be sent to the sub (remember, you are not suppose to feel that they come now from the sub as they are not directional anyway).


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