Building a bike

beans

Hey,

In anticipation of a frame being delivered to me sometime in the new year, I'm thinking about what I'll need to build this frame up to a fully-rolling bike.

I was looking at Zinn as a good resource to have, can anyone recommend better?

Any tips or tricks for budding bike builders?

(I did search but couldn't find anything, so apologies if this is old ground)

doozerie

I don't know what books are available these days, so can't make any suggestions there. However, I can recommend the Park Tools website, as it has a lot of information on how to work on various parts of a bike (using their tools). The information is very comprehensive, and you select the area of the bike you are interested in:

http://www.parktool.com/repair/

While it doesn't tell you how to build up an entire bike, as such, most of the useful information is in there. I can also recommend their tools by the way - they are not cheap, but you really do get what you pay for. Whatever your preference in brand of tools, good tools make a world of difference when working on a bike.

Morgan

Just make sure you have all the parts you need and the necessary tools before you start...

Zorba

doozerie wrote: »

I don't know what books are available these days, so can't make any suggestions there. However, I can recommend the Park Tools website, as it has a lot of information on how to work on various parts of a bike (using their tools). The information is very comprehensive, and you select the area of the bike you are interested in:

http://www.parktool.com/repair/

While it doesn't tell you how to build up an entire bike, as such, most of the useful information is in there. I can also recommend their tools by the way - they are not cheap, but you really do get what you pay for. Whatever your preference in brand of tools, good tools make a world of difference when working on a bike.

That's the very website i was gonna point him towards

kincsem

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-Up-a-Bike/

kona

get the headset put in by a shop..dont chance it with wood.
BB are reverse threaded.DONT cross them or bye bye new frame.
buy the best tools you can buy, makes life alot easier!!!
take your time and buy plenty of synthetic grease, finish line is good stuff.
read instructions twice!!!
your new chain will need links taken out.
so get a good chain tool, and dont pop the pin the whole way out!!!
make sure when you buy your drive train that all the parts are compatible, most of the time sram and shimano dont mix(although sram chains and cassettes work fine with shimano)
ive you have rim brakes, buy rim brake rims, likewise with discs(makesure the frame hs the mounts as does the fork)
face off the BB shell, headset and disc mounts with sandpaper and a block(Remove excess paint)

E@gle.

kona wrote: »

get the headset put in by a shop..dont chance it with wood.
BB are reverse threaded.DONT cross them or bye bye new frame.
buy the best tools you can buy, makes life alot easier!!!
take your time and buy plenty of synthetic grease, finish line is good stuff.
read instructions twice!!!
your new chain will need links taken out.
so get a good chain tool, and dont pop the pin the whole way out!!!
make sure when you buy your drive train that all the parts are compatible, most of the time sram and shimano dont mix(although sram chains and cassettes work fine with shimano)
ive you have rim brakes, buy rim brake rims, likewise with discs(makesure the frame hs the mounts as does the fork)
face off the BB shell, headset and disc mounts with sandpaper and a block(Remove excess paint)

Thats why i paid my LBS to do it for me

kona

E@gle. wrote: »

Thats why i paid my LBS to do it for me

and get no satisfaction outa building somthing, which works sweet???
im lucky i used the tools in my job as ive a headset press, facing tools, bb thread cleaner, and all the other tools.
seriously its great feeling actually building somthing, and knowing it will work fantastic.

Borderfox

I built all my bikes when I was racing, nothing better than doing it yourself...:)

Itsfixed

Yeah absolutely, nothing like it. go for it.

Hoping that santa will bring me a headset press this xmas. A headset is the only thing i've never touched when building or rebuilding a bike, so its the last frontier for me.

beans

Thanks for the replies. Actually, I'll be presented with the frame + headset + bottom bracket installed, so those two biggies will be pinned down from the beginning.

Time to compile a list of a) what's to be setup and b) what I'll need for each stage. Think I'll need a chain whip for installing the casette, there's some other tool necessary there aswell... I have a chain tool... this may not be as daunting a task as I imagined.

Just from asking around, it seemed some of the city-centre shops were refusing to build up the frame for insurance reasons. Besides which, I'd like to learn the ins and outs.

carbsy

Any of ye see The Flying Scotsman? He built his own frame too.

Morgan

beans wrote: »

Thanks for the replies. Actually, I'll be presented with the frame + headset + bottom bracket installed, so those two biggies will be pinned down from the beginning.

Time to compile a list of a) what's to be setup and b) what I'll need for each stage. Think I'll need a chain whip for installing the casette, there's some other tool necessary there aswell... I have a chain tool... this may not be as daunting a task as I imagined.

Chain whip is for removing the cassette - you need a lockring tool to install it. What else? Offhand: set of allen keys, good cable and housing cutter. That's pretty much it. A workstand makes the whole process (and future maintenance) a lot easier.

beans wrote: »

Just from asking around, it seemed some of the city-centre shops were refusing to build up the frame for insurance reasons. Besides which, I'd like to learn the ins and outs.

Sounds like they're not confident of their abilities.

kona

beans wrote: »

Thanks for the replies. Actually, I'll be presented with the frame + headset + bottom bracket installed, so those two biggies will be pinned down from the beginning.

Time to compile a list of a) what's to be setup and b) what I'll need for each stage. Think I'll need a chain whip for installing the casette, there's some other tool necessary there aswell... I have a chain tool... this may not be as daunting a task as I imagined.

Just from asking around, it seemed some of the city-centre shops were refusing to build up the frame for insurance reasons. Besides which, I'd like to learn the ins and outs.

dude you only need a chain whip to take the cassette off!! its just a lock ring that holds it in.
lou will need to set the limits on the gears, and balance the brakes.
get a good cable cutters(from a bike shop)
they are priceless!!!

beans

See, I'm learning already!

+1 on the good tools - I bought a 'bargain' chain-tool only to have one of the support bits bend the first time I used it

doozerie

In addition to allen keys and cable cutters, you are likely to need:
- a spanner for the pedals, usually a 15mm. Get a good (strong) one in case you ever encounter a "reluctant" pedal - I have seen this happen more than once and I snapped a spanner on one occasion myself when trying to remove a pedal that had been fitted by a bike shop.
- you might need a smaller spanner (possibly a "cone" spanner, which is thinner than regular spanners) to adjust the brake calipers (if this is a road bike), but this depends on your choice of brakes.
- a tool to fit the chainset and crank (which one you'll need will depend on your choice of chainset - the Park Tool site above is a good guide as to what you'll need).
- possibly a few screwdrivers (adjusting the derailleurs, and possibly other things).
- a chain splitter (depending on chain). Get a good one, as they rely on brute force so the quality of metal makes a difference - the worst of the cheaper ones can seem impossible to use, whereas for example even the smallest (and cheapest) of the Park Tools ones (the CT-5) works reasonably well (but the CT-3 may save you some sweat and tears!).
- a tool to remove/install the cassette, as mentioned earlier. You'll probably need an adjustable spanner to use with it too, something with a bit of leverage like a 300mm-long one. Plus a chainwhip for removing the cassette, as mentioned too.
- a hammer or rubber mallet can be very useful too.
- if you are fitting/removing a freehub then you are likely to need a large allen key too (possibly an 11mm or a 12mm), which can be hard to find (the 11mm one in particular). The freehub is likely to come fiited with the wheel though.

That's likely to be the minimum that you will need (unless I have forgotten anything), but it is a fairly short list really so the cost isn't huge. If you prefer not having to rely on a bike shop then over time you are likely to end up adding to that list. Personally, I think it is a good idea to learn to do everything yourself, 'cos things invariably go wrong mainly when you have no access to a bike shop, and in any case having the choice is good especially if you have reason to doubt the quality of work by your local bike shop.

doozerie

...

beans

Excellent, thanks

If and when I eventually get into Randonnee-type cycling, it'll be nice to know that most of the moving parts on the bike have been personally setup - should make maintenance on the road less of a scary prospect.

beans

...

kona

doozerie wrote: »

In addition to allen keys and cable cutters, you are likely to need:
- a spanner for the pedals, usually a 15mm. Get a good (strong) one in case you ever encounter a "reluctant" pedal - I have seen this happen more than once and I snapped a spanner on one occasion myself when trying to remove a pedal that had been fitted by a bike shop.
- you might need a smaller spanner (possibly a "cone" spanner, which is thinner than regular spanners) to adjust the brake calipers (if this is a road bike), but this depends on your choice of brakes.
- a tool to fit the chainset and crank (which one you'll need will depend on your choice of chainset - the Park Tool site above is a good guide as to what you'll need).
- possibly a few screwdrivers (adjusting the derailleurs, and possibly other things).
- a chain splitter (depending on chain). Get a good one, as they rely on brute force so the quality of metal makes a difference - the worst of the cheaper ones can seem impossible to use, whereas for example even the smallest (and cheapest) of the Park Tools ones (the CT-5) works reasonably well (but the CT-3 may save you some sweat and tears!).
- a tool to remove/install the cassette, as mentioned earlier. You'll probably need an adjustable spanner to use with it too, something with a bit of leverage like a 300mm-long one. Plus a chainwhip for removing the cassette, as mentioned too.
- a hammer or rubber mallet can be very useful too.
- if you are fitting/removing a freehub then you are likely to need a large allen key too (possibly an 11mm or a 12mm), which can be hard to find (the 11mm one in particular). The freehub is likely to come fiited with the wheel though.

That's likely to be the minimum that you will need (unless I have forgotten anything), but it is a fairly short list really so the cost isn't huge. If you prefer not having to rely on a bike shop then over time you are likely to end up adding to that list. Personally, I think it is a good idea to learn to do everything yourself, 'cos things invariably go wrong mainly when you have no access to a bike shop, and in any case having the choice is good especially if you have reason to doubt the quality of work by your local bike shop.

to put a bike together you need, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm allen keys, a adjusting spanner and a smallish screwdriver(phillips). a proper pedal spanner, cable cutter.
depending on what bb set up you have you will need a bb tool, if its hollowtech you need a special tool.
hollowtech1 and hollowtech2 are totally different.
the rest of the stuff is for taking things off the bike, not putting them on.
if you have V-brake set up, you will have 3 holes on the mount, put the pin on the arms into the middle holes.
electrical tape is a good rim tape when doubled up;)
make sure your rims can take whatever valve you are after.
when fitting the fork, you will more than likely need to cut the steerer tube, get a LBC to do this as if you get it wrong your in trouble, it has to be dead straight too, also a star fangled nut needs to be installed.
when you put it in the frame with the stem on, tighten the nut on top of the stem before you do the other two.make sure the steerer tube sits about 2mm below the top of stem so you can preload the fork. you can adjust this with spacers
the other two bolts should be tigtened evenly(not tighten one then move on to the next)
thats all i can think of now, im sure ill have a flashback later!!

Itsfixed

kona wrote: »

when fitting the fork, you will more than likely need to cut the steerer tube, get a LBC to do this as if you get it wrong your in trouble, it has to be dead straight too, also a star fangled nut needs to be installed.

Yes, get the LBC to do this, as i tried this myself before making a mess of it - both cutting the tube and putting in the nut.

doozerie

kona wrote:

to put a bike together you need, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm allen keys, a adjusting spanner and a smallish screwdriver(phillips). a proper pedal spanner, cable cutter.
depending on what bb set up you have you will need a bb tool, if its hollowtech you need a special tool.
hollowtech1 and hollowtech2 are totally different.
the rest of the stuff is for taking things off the bike, not putting them on.

Some tools that you don't include there will be needed at the start too:

- A chain splitter will be needed to fit the chain, unless the chain is one that doesn't use a removable pin.

- If buying the groupset and wheels separately, the cassette won't come installed on the wheel so the appropriate tool will be needed for that too (doesn't require a chainwhip at this stage but does require a large-ish adjustable spanner to turn the tool).

- Sometimes you encounter a component that uses a small allen key, so it is worth buying a set that covers a wider range, such as the Park Tool AWS-10 (1.5mm to 6mm range). The allen keys in that set are shorter than those in a loose set, but they are usually long enough for most things.

Hermy

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/
You might find this website useful.

kona

doozerie wrote: »

Some tools that you don't include there will be needed at the start too:

- A chain splitter will be needed to fit the chain, unless the chain is one that doesn't use a removable pin.

- If buying the groupset and wheels separately, the cassette won't come installed on the wheel so the appropriate tool will be needed for that too (doesn't require a chainwhip at this stage but does require a large-ish adjustable spanner to turn the tool).

- Sometimes you encounter a component that uses a small allen key, so it is worth buying a set that covers a wider range, such as the Park Tool AWS-10 (1.5mm to 6mm range). The allen keys in that set are shorter than those in a loose set, but they are usually long enough for most things.

said all those tools in a post before;)

oh yes, make sure your freehub takes the amounof gears on the cassette.
a 7spd freehub wont take a 9spd cassette.
however a 8spd freehub will do both 8 and 9 speed cassettes.
the cassette just slides on, one of the teeth on the freehub will be different(usually smaller) just line this up with the corresponding mark on the cassetee.