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FTO...any known issues??

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  • 29-12-2007 12:46am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 9,366 ✭✭✭


    I'm viewing an FTO in the morning

    1.8 Auto with 90k on the clock.
    Are there any things besides the normal...t-belt, tyres etc... that would be specific to the FTO or the like


«13

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 9,366 ✭✭✭ninty9er


    Orange69 wrote: »
    FTOs are sweet cars..

    Is this it?

    That's the one!! My mechanic friend can't come tomorrow so I'm taking my dad who has a little bit of motor sense.

    I won't be doing a lot of driving over the next year, but I can afford it this year and won't be able to the following 12 months with final year and not working.

    I've berated Quinn before, but I'mm gonna go with them on insurance as they're the only people who'll quote me on it and it's not outrageous either!

    As for auto...traffic is my mortal enemy and I never intend to go back to manual as my daily driver, maybe a weekend car at some point in the future.


  • Registered Users Posts: 937 ✭✭✭Mr.Diagnostic


    I dunno if it is a common fault or not but i saw one recently that looked to be in mint rust free condition but the rear chasis rails were rotten to a dangerous state. Worth checking.


  • Registered Users Posts: 809 ✭✭✭woop


    somebody on this has a nice blue one.......Id say theyd be the one to ask dont remember who but for what its worth Id love to have one..............damn insurance


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,668 ✭✭✭eringobragh


    That would be Colm_McM


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 601 ✭✭✭Rory123


    They're lovely and this one looks sweet.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,366 ✭✭✭ninty9er


    Rory123 wrote: »
    They're lovely and this one looks sweet.

    I'll let ye know if I buy or not, but for now I have dibs:cool:
    woop wrote: »
    ......damn insurance
    I'm just 21 this week, 21 months (entering as 2 years) named driving and the quote is coming in at just shy of €1700 comprehensive with *cringe* Quinn #cringe#. But as one must have insurance and the company I'm insured as named with won't quote, it'll have to be Quinn:(:(

    No wonder Seán Quinn tooped the 50 biggest earners of 2006 list lastnight.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,219 ✭✭✭hellboy99


    1. Open the bonnet and look around the inside of the front wings, especially on the driver's side. Look for any rust, especially around the engine mounting.
    2. Is the exhaust smoke-free on start-up?A small amount of white smoke on cold or damp days is fine. Any blue smoke or excessive smoke means there is problem with the engine. Is the exhaust completely smoke-free once the engine is fully warmed up? If not, there is a problem with the engine.
    3. When the engine is warm, leave it running and open the bonnet. Listen for a loud metallic tap/slapping noise at the top of the engine. If you hear this noise it's indicates that the tappets need replacing.
    4. Head gasket check - Open the bonnet and look at the front of the engine. Check that there isn’t any oil weeping out of the top and dripping down either of the front (usually left) corners of the engine.
    5. Dash Lights - Check that Engine Management light goes out, also check airbag, ABS, battery & oil lights.
    6. Anti-roll bar drop links - As you drive the car over rough surfaces or bumps (e.g. speed bumps) listen for a knocking noise coming from the suspension. A knocking noise from the suspension usually indicates that an anti-roll bar link needs replacing.
    7. If the car has Tiptronic gears - On cars with a tiptronic gearbox, test the following: 1) Click the car into gear. It should go straight into gear. 2) Accelerate away to see if it accelerates smoothly or delays when you press the accelerator and then surges forward. 3) As you change gears check there is an instant response, not a delayed change. If the car delays going into any gear or the car delays and then surges forward, the gearbox needs rebuilding.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,366 ✭✭✭ninty9er


    hellboy99 wrote: »
    1. Open the bonnet and look around the inside of the front wings, especially on the driver's side. Look for any rust, especially around the engine mounting.
    2. Is the exhaust smoke-free on start-up?A small amount of white smoke on cold or damp days is fine. Any blue smoke or excessive smoke means there is problem with the engine. Is the exhaust completely smoke-free once the engine is fully warmed up? If not, there is a problem with the engine.
    3. When the engine is warm, leave it running and open the bonnet. Listen for a loud metallic tap/slapping noise at the top of the engine. If you hear this noise it's indicates that the tappets need replacing.
    4. Head gasket check - Open the bonnet and look at the front of the engine. Check that there isn’t any oil weeping out of the top and dripping down either of the front (usually left) corners of the engine.
    5. Dash Lights - Check that Engine Management light goes out, also check airbag, ABS, battery & oil lights.
    6. Anti-roll bar drop links - As you drive the car over rough surfaces or bumps (e.g. speed bumps) listen for a knocking noise coming from the suspension. A knocking noise from the suspension usually indicates that an anti-roll bar link needs replacing.
    7. If the car has Tiptronic gears - On cars with a tiptronic gearbox, test the following: 1) Click the car into gear. It should go straight into gear. 2) Accelerate away to see if it accelerates smoothly or delays when you press the accelerator and then surges forward. 3) As you change gears check there is an instant response, not a delayed change. If the car delays going into any gear or the car delays and then surges forward, the gearbox needs rebuilding.

    Cheers, much appreciated!! I'm all worked up about this car. It's well below my budget, but as long as it hasn't been crashed I'm not too pushed about what mechanical issues need addressing within reason (1 major 3-4 minor issues)


  • Registered Users Posts: 51,240 ✭✭✭✭bazz26


    I heard that the 1.8 is a bit of slug though especially with the tiptronic box. The 2.0 litre V6 is supposed to be the best one to get apparently. Don't know how true this is though as I haven't driven either.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 9,366 ✭✭✭ninty9er


    bazz26 wrote: »
    I heard that the 1.8 is a bit of slug though especially with the tiptronic box. The 2.0 litre V6 is supposed to be the best one to get apparently. Don't know how true this is though as I haven't driven either.


    I'm not looking for a racer and don't do too much long journey travel, but if there was a 2.0 V6 going I wouldn't be averse to the idea...however the ones on carzone are in the wrong colours...I don't have the patience to keep black or white clean, the yellow is painful and the wine is sold.

    It doesn't really bother me all that much though. A Legacy is the fallback car, though the tax may be slightly above budget, for someone who's becoming an unemployed student in September.


  • Registered Users Posts: 239 ✭✭tyney


    I had a 2litre v6, and it was the only car that I really didn't get tired of. The tappets can get noisy, but they quieten down when you use a good quality fully synth oil. Manual gearboxes are crap. Tiptronic box learns your driving style, and if you thrash it to the red in every gear, it automatically assumes you want to do this all the time. You have to go back to manual mode to get it to behave. Best all round fun car I owned. It was worth all the "hairdresser" slagging. I looked at 15 of them before I found a good unmolested one. It doesn't need a big exhaust and huge wheels. I sold mine because the pram (which we didn't have when I bought it) wouldn't fit in the boot. I might buy another one for my mid life crisis.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 723 ✭✭✭3ps


    check out www.fto-ireland.com

    FYI there's also www.gto-ireland.com


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,366 ✭✭✭ninty9er


    Had a look, there's some slight superficial rust and a spot about half an inch long that looks like a repair job on the driver's wheel arch under the bonnet (thanks for the tips Hellboy)

    There's a tiny spot of mildew type rust under the boot, the chassis seems free of it. and a nice bit under the bootlid. The car's been idle for most of the last 18 months so I'd put it down to that. I'm willing to overlook it really if I can get my panel beater to sand it down and fill it properly for a decent fee:D:D

    was excellent to drive...my dad had great fun with the tiptronic (which was in excellent condition, crisp changes etc....) Seller seemed a very genuine guy and has the parts for the timing belt and pump change due in about 7500 kms. Serviced 3 months ago.

    Bit noisier than I'd like but I suppose we all have to have a fun, heartbreaker car at some stage and auto Alfas are like hen's teeth!

    Honestly if I sell it on for 2 grand in 2 years I'd be happy...if I don't become attached. Any idea how much it'd cost to have leather put in??


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,219 ✭✭✭hellboy99


    ninty9er wrote: »
    There's a tiny spot of mildew type rust under the boot, the chassis seems free of it. and a nice bit under the bootlid.
    Some under body sealer and a new seal will stop the bootlid issue, just get rid of the rust, if it's only light then a sand down and a bit of paint before putting new seal on.
    ninty9er wrote: »
    Seller seemed a very genuine guy and has the parts for the timing belt and pump change due in about 7500 kms. Serviced 3 months ago.
    As the car has been idle for most of the last 18 months be no harm to do the belt and pump, it can be a bit of a job to do so don't be surprised with price for doing it, shop round as price will vary.
    ninty9er wrote: »
    Any idea how much it'd cost to have leather put in??
    Ring some breakers and get a price of leather interiors or you could get the original interior re-upholstered.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,366 ✭✭✭ninty9er


    hellboy99 wrote: »
    Ring some breakers and get a price of leather interiors or you could get the original interior re-upholstered.

    My dad was an upholsterer years ago, but I have no idea of what's a fair price to give him to do the job....would €400 plus materials sound about right??

    also, does the GS not have central locking?? This one doesn't, I'd heard there was an issue with it. I can get this done too no bother, but for security I like the car to be open before I approach it. It has a cobra alarm, but no paperwork other than previous 2 NCTs and VLC


  • Registered Users Posts: 51,240 ✭✭✭✭bazz26


    ninty9er wrote: »
    also, does the GS not have central locking?? This one doesn't, I'd heard there was an issue with it. I can get this done too no bother, but for security I like the car to be open before I approach it. It has a cobra alarm, but no paperwork other than previous 2 NCTs and VLC

    Very unusal for a car like that not to have central locking even back then. Most likely the motor could be knackered. A nice little haggling point with the seller.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,219 ✭✭✭hellboy99


    ninty9er wrote: »
    My dad was an upholsterer years ago, but I have no idea of what's a fair price to give him to do the job....would €400 plus materials sound about right??
    I'd say €400 - €600.
    ninty9er wrote: »
    does the GS not have central locking?? This one doesn't, I'd heard there was an issue with it. I can get this done too no bother.
    Central locking motors on older models can give trouble, you can get replacements from Maplins : http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=YD78K&source=15&SD=Y

    There are two types, a 5 wire (Order code YD78K £9.99) and a 2 wire version (Order code YD79L £8.99). Either will work, all you need is the 2 wires but the 5 wire version has a built in 2 way switch (May be useful if you want to use it to fold in your mirrors or something)


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,454 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I would aim for the 2.0 engine as a minimum, even a non MIVEC model. The 1.8 model is taxed as a 1.9 as it is over 1800cc. Check prices on insurance on all specs. The 1.8 is quite slow, especially as a 4 speed tiptronic. Also drive as many FTO's as you can to be able to compare.
    Weak points are stepper motors, central locking, and suspension knocking. 4 speed tiptronics can give problems too so make sure it changes up and down in auto mode when it should and smoothly.

    sign up to www.fto-ireland.com - there is a buying guide on there, and a good forum to answer specific questions. The particular car isn't exactly cheap, you'll pick up V6 models for the same money. as I said, check insurance prices on both engines.

    Would disagree with tyney about the manual gearbox being crap though.

    I might be selling mine (95 GPX) soon. thinking of going for something much older....


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,686 ✭✭✭JHMEG


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Would disagree with tyney about the manual gearbox being crap though.
    When I was considering buying an FTO I was told to get the manual, or get a different car rather than get the tiptronic. And to get a GPX, or the other 2.0 mivec, GPvR or something, that the 1.8 or normal 2.0 are really a waste of time and are hard to sell on.

    Leather was never available from Mitsubishi, but there was some guy in the UK who had leatherette kits made up in Malaysia or somewhere and this is where all the "leather" interiors come from. They're all different as he took individual orders. I think there were about 400 original kits made, and they were around £400 stg each at the time IIRC. There might have been a 2nd batch made up.. I didn't keep up with the FTO thing when I got my current car.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 9,366 ✭✭✭ninty9er


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    I might be selling mine (95 GPX) soon. thinking of going for something much older....
    is it tiptronic and how soon would you be selling??

    Consider that I'm currently driving a Corsa so the 1.8 seemed like a rocket propelled grenade when I drove it. I'm not overly pushed about getting the 2.0, but the 5speed box might increase fuel economy?? or would the larger engine mitigate for that?

    Cheers for all the advice everyone.


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,454 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    ninty9er wrote: »
    is it tiptronic and how soon would you be selling??
    It is Tiptronic alright. The Tip box definately uses more fuel, the MIVEC engines are slightly thirstier than the normal V6 models.
    It should be noted that the tiptronic box loses some of the engines power compared to a manual - a manual will be quicker. I like the tiptronic box though, and find the car very well powered.
    I don't think the 1.8 or non MIVEC V6 is well suited to the tiptronic box, as it only has 4 forward gears it's harder to keep a non MIVEC engine in its power band. my one will do 110kmph in second no problem so as you can imagine, less gearchanges are needed.
    I'd avoid a 1.8 auto to be honest, even hold out for a manual 1.8 if insurance is an issue.


    If I'm selling it, it would be in January or February, there's a 70's Celica I'm thinking of buying, it all depends on how that works out,

    There's a pretty big spec on the car:
    18" alloys, drilled/grooved discs, lowered suspension, HID's, clear repeaters, respray in Ford Amparo blue, Apexi induction kit, Mongoose exhaust, glow dials, MOMO wheel, cream leatherette seats, Clifford G5 Avant Guard alarm with remote start and Blackjax coded immobiliser, DVD headunit, upgraded speakers, 160GB media hard drive, that sort of thing, plus all the goodies a GPX model gives you


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,366 ✭✭✭ninty9er


    PM sent


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2 pmitch


    I'd also highly recommend the FTO but like another poster said, I'd go for the 2.0 V6 MIVEC.
    You get 200BHP without the problems that come with turbos.
    Everything about them's great IMO.
    The power, handling, sound, look.
    You can really pick up a bargain in the the UK, 1995 2.0 MIVEC for
    under €3000 no problem.
    Check out VRT first though.

    The only FTO specific problem that I can think of is that the
    stepper motor commonly causes problems.
    This is a type of automatic-choke.
    Syptoms will be, hard starting under cold-conditions,
    erratic revving, etc.
    Luckily a new one only costs ~€125 and anyone could fit one.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,366 ✭✭✭ninty9er


    Just did an insurance check, wouldn't be able to stretch to it for the 2.0.

    It's an auto I'm after more than an FTO....i suppose I should have a mechanic look at it anyway, though Mitsus seem bulletproof. Probably offer 3200 for it though cos it needs 2 new tyres and tax is due next month. The seller also put a dent in the driver's door (small job) the day before I saw it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,454 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    they still look great even in 1.8 form. they turn far more heads than Integras, Levins etc.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,686 ✭✭✭JHMEG


    ninty9er wrote: »
    Just did an insurance check, wouldn't be able to stretch to it for the 2.0.
    I really think you should hold off till you can afford the 2.0 MIVEC. A 1.8 FTO is as pointless as a 1.6 no-vtec DC2 Integra, and while it may turn heads it'll get spanked by pretty much every car out there, including Levins and Integras.

    In the meantime get something with a bit of poke that you can insure. The Mirage 1.6 MIVEC (that has a really crappy full name: Mirage Cyborg ZR) could be a starting point; they're cheap and should be easy to insure, and would spank a 1.8 FTO.


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,454 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    ...depends on the OP's reason for buying the car, could be just for the looks. Mirage is not much to look at.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,686 ✭✭✭JHMEG


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    ...depends on the OP's reason for buying the car, could be just for the looks. Mirage is not much to look at.
    Well, if all he wants to do is look at it, then by all means get an FTO.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,139 ✭✭✭Orange69


    Mirage looks like ass compared to the FTO.. ;)

    To OP.. what are you so adamant to get an auto??


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