draught windows

squibs

Title should read drafty windows

I'm living in a house less than 10 years old. I have noticed that the house is a little draughty with closed doors rattling in time to large gusts outside. There is a fireplace in the house, which seems to be okay - no problems with lit fires, no undue wind noise.

I think much of the problem is around the double glazed windows. On winter nights with the heating on, the recess in the wall around the window is always colder and I can see the blinds moving to a slight draught. I don't appear to have cracked panes. I think it's where the frames meet the bricks, and particularly around the windowsill.

I don't think this is normal - how would I go about diagnosing/fixing it? More to the point, who would I contract to diagnose/fix it and check the house for efficiency?

squibs

tentative bump

10-10-20

I had similar issues with my 2003 house (I bought second hand).
I had to stuff paper into the recesses around the windows and then use painters caulc to completely block up the gaps. I used a trowel to shove the paper down (It was light wrapping paper) and packed it tight.
Ideally I would have liked to lift the window boards up and insulate them properly, but this wasn't possible in most cases.
You should also have a look at the exterior of the frames for any gaps and pack these with expandable foam.

JBCFord

Hi Squibs
Your ground floor is it timber on joists or concrete slab

If its timber you can gets cold air coming up through the timber floor from the exterior under floor vents that ventilate the cavity space on the ground floor
To combat this by laying building paper or equivalent with taped joints under good quality carpet underlay and lay final carpet
Or lay it under the underlay for laminated Structured timber Flooring

Do not block up exterior floor vents their needed to keep dampness at bay and for your buildings good health

Your double glazing sash sealing beads can fail over time and allow an uneven seal to your window frame these can be replaced by a competent Glazing firm at the same time check sash alignment and friction stays and handles replacement keys ect..

When your windows ware installed maybe they did not bed down the bottom rail on to the concrete sill or fill the gaps on the side rails and head if you’re going to decorate in the near future you can investigate this and repair as needed with expanding foam
note cover windows when using expanding foam
Check the mastic beading around the outside of the windows if its perished pull it out and replace it with a good brand quality product that wont harden and crack even when over painted

Upstairs check for pipe work entering the building for gaps again expanding foam let set up remove 20mm of the foam and point exterior with sand and cement

Check around ceiling light fittings for gaps and repair with painters calk making sure not to cover electrical connections

Finely insulate your attic if existing insulation is less than 100 dept either remove and fit 100mm rockwool thermal insulation in two runs first with ceiling joists then lay a new layer across lower level giving you 200mm in total
Remembering not to insulate under your water tank so it won’t freeze in winter
Fitting a seal around your attic access hatch is also important

I could go on but this will get you started
Ps remember read the health and safety instructions on all products and keep your work space safe regards jbcford

squibs

Many thanks for the responses. It is a concrete floor by the way, and it's a bungalow.

I'll investigate the possibilities you suggested.