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Changing shower from working of mains to electric. How much

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  • 17-01-2008 11:25am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 800 ✭✭✭


    Hi,

    I have an electric shower in my ensuite that runs of the mains and I am working how much would it cost to change it to a normal electric shower (Triton).

    I have already another electric shower in the house and the circuit board has already been wire to prvent the 2 electric showers to work at the same time.

    So wondering how much to change the shower box around.

    I presume I just need a plumber to do the work.

    Thanks for your responses


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 828 ✭✭✭dingdong1234567


    If your changing to a standard electric shower Triton/Mira you will need to fit a water tank in the attic. This is to allow a gravity feed to the shower. If you feed the shower of the watermain you will blow it up! Or close to it anyhow.

    Sorry i cant' be any help on the costs involved though:(


  • Registered Users Posts: 800 ✭✭✭SeeMoreBut


    There is a water tank already in the attic to find into the other stand alone electric shower (Triton).

    The other shower was meant to be just a normal shower that ran off the mains so got that changed when the house was built.

    We thought the one we are changing was a instant shower but we were wrong :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,556 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    Triton t90 electric shower €256
    Plumber - Name you price really.. prob.. €150?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,285 ✭✭✭youtheman


    "I have an electric shower in my ensuite that runs of the mains and I am working how much would it cost to change it to a normal electric shower (Triton)."

    I think you're 'mixing your metaphors' slightly.

    There are two types of electric showers :
    1. an un-pumped one that is fed from the mains (pressure can be several bar)
    2. a pumped on that is fed from the header tank in the attic (pressure is nearly zero).

    The advantages of 2. are :
    a. the water sitting in the header tank is warmer, so for a given power input the outlet temperature is warmer. Makes a huge difference in winter.
    b. it is unaffected by the suction pressure. So if someone flushes the jacks you don't get scalded.

    I changed from 1. to 2. and I had to do the following:

    1. change the Main Circuit Breaker as the pumped unit had a higher kilowatt rating than the un-pumped unit (check the cable is rated, but it should be).
    2. break the water supply to the shower, where it teed off the main pipe upstream of the headr tank in the attic. Blank the tee.
    3. Cut new hole in header tank in attic, and fit bulkhead fitting. Connect pipe referred to in 2. to this fitting.
    4. Take out old shower and fit new one (using same electric and water connections).


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