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Photos of your Airsoft equipment (Discussion)
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TerrorFirmer wrote: »Sounds like a project for my Glock 17 tomorrow.
Any suggestions from the master himself as to what grades of paper and how exactly you get that polish/shine off it?
I use a palm sander with 360 grit paper that flys through the coating/paint then onto 600, 800 & 1200 grit wet & dry, you have to be sure to keep sanding in one direction to avoid any tearing that'll leave marks you don't need.
Any parts you can't reach you can use a dremel with a sanding disk on it.
Once you have you parts nice n smooth you will have a good mirror finish on them.
Then onto the buffing wheel using your pink and blue compounds, when you've polished it add a bit over vienna lime to get any excess compound off the parts.
You might get fingerprints on the polished parts afterwards all you need to do is use brasso or silvo to get them off then use either a spray of silicone oil or car wax and a soft cloth to seal the polished parts and bada bing
You can go from this...
To this in a few hours
I'm making a vid on it, I'll post it up on airsoft when it's done
If yer stuck PM me or you can post me the parts and I'll polish them for you0 -
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Nice work man.
Id go to even lighter papers before buffing it though, i use as high as 2000-2500 when I'm polishing metal parts.
You can get a buffing wheel with drill attachment in Woodies and B&Q for little money and it makes buffing a lot quicker and easier. 0 -
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swiftblade wrote: »Im liking the Ak 47 Flecktarn But if it was me i would spray the fire selector black. Looks a bit off to me . What make is it?
Sean.
Thanks swiftblade! Yeah I was thinking that about the fire selector alright, I might I'm not 100% on it yet, Its a Cybergun.
Could you tell me a bit about how you did your handguard, sandpaper, finish etc.0 -
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swiftblade wrote: »Just really fine sand paper ( took a long time
) And there coats of "ronseal" clear varnish. Thats it
Yeah I have a good few grades here but I'm contemplating whether to do it or not 0 -
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swiftblade wrote: »I didnt actully think that was real woood on that ak!
I would! It gave me something to do on a Sunday and gives the gun a bit of character. You could even try using some wood stain to give a "propper AK look"
Thanks for the input0 -
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Nice work man.
Id go to even lighter papers before buffing it though, i use as high as 2000-2500 when I'm polishing metal parts.
You can get a buffing wheel with drill attachment in Woodies and B&Q for little money and it makes buffing a lot quicker and easier.
Thanks Masada
I use 4" 6" & 8" wheels on a bench mounted motor and sometimes use a drill extention they fly through the polishing and of course the goblet buffers for the hard to reach areas and the dremel comes in handy too.
I have 7 grades of buffing compound for non ferrous and ferrous metals so 1200 grit is as far as I need to go really, once there's a good shine on the part you in business and ready for buffing.
The buffer wheels take care of the rest of the sanding work
I have gone just to 800 grit and used 1200 to 3000 equivalent compounds but I like to use the 1200 just to be sure there aren't any pores left in the metals
Some people use nitromorse and steel wool or scotch pads (pads and wool are perfect for preping and painting) but I reckon a palm sander is less messy and a lot quicker for stripping, but thats just me 0 -
swiftblade wrote: »I didnt actully think that was real woood on that ak! I would! It gave me something to do on a Sunday and gives the gun a bit of character. You could even try using some wood stain to give a "propper AK look"
That's a really nice job swift, I love the colourTerrorFirmer wrote: »Well I had no such advanced tools to hand, just really rough paper, and ultra fine paper. Not exactly a smooth gradient. But here's what came out of it so far in the other thread.
What paper did you use Terror?
You seem to have a shine coming on it, when you get your finer papers lay the sheet down and run the slide up and back in one direction, the finer the grade the better the shine.
As Masada said go up to 2000-2500 it'll be perfect if your not using a buffer to finish polish the slide.
Nice job btw 0 -
Well I didn't have any of those tools for my finished article, just a fresh handful of sandpaper (from the 2 euro store!) and some cheap polish. Still came out okay, I have to say I prefer the more rough flat finish over the glossy reflective one anyway...so I'm happy overall. Now...If I've had a palm sander and dremel, what took about 90 minutes would have taken 15, and the surface finish would have been a lot better (some mild scratching on one side where I initially used extremely coarse paper)...but oh well! 0
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Firekitten wrote: »The bipod I can live with... but the white trades on an ak... *cries inside*
Yea kinda thought it was a mistake but was kinda an experiment on paiting trades :rolleyes:
Btw im liking the Ak! is it a Kalash? 0 -
yup, the big sister of yours... Recent aquisition afganised
A tip to a fellow ak owner, but no russian rifle had white trademarks on the reciver, just the sight letters were white (on the rear sight) If you want to keep them white, go over the reciver and top cover with a quick whipe of nail varnish remover... will get rid of the white outside the trademarks...0 -
Firekitten wrote: »its an akm model 2 soviet issue bayonet for the ak74
1952 stamped, afgan era
(Not a sovietsofter nerd honest)
Sure...:rolleyes:0 -
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