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Radiator Lockshield Valve

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  • 23-01-2008 6:44pm
    #1
    Aeneas
    Registered Users Posts: 245 ✭✭


    On some of my radiators the short run of piping from my lockshield valve is hotter than the piping to my control valve (the one with the + and - sign). Is this the way things are supposed to be? And if not is there any obvious reason why they might be this way?


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    #2
    JamesM
    Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    It is obvious that the flow is in through the lockshield valve - the water cools a bit in the rad - and exits through the control valve. It can cause problems with thermostatic valves.
    Jim.


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    #3
    Aeneas
    Registered Users Posts: 245 ✭✭Aeneas


    JamesM wrote: »
    It is obvious that the flow is in through the lockshield valve - the water cools a bit in the rad - and exits through the control valve. It can cause problems with thermostatic valves.
    Jim.

    Thanks. That's what I thought it might be. Is this the correct way for hot water to flow through rads - in through the lockshield valve, out through the control? Apart from problems with thermostats does it create other difficulties? And presumably all my rads should be on this system.


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    #4
    JamesM
    Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    The first fix is done - there are 2 pipes sticking up out of the floor in each room. The Boss says: For your next job, hang the rads on the wall and connect up the valves. The aprentice walks into the room with a valve in each hand :confused::confused::confused::D

    If there's not a thermostatic valve, then the 2 valves are the same under the covers - the water just flows through - alright ! it really should flow in through the control valve and out through the lockshield one, but it usually does not make a difference. :)
    Jim.


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    #5
    Aeneas
    Registered Users Posts: 245 ✭✭Aeneas


    Well it doesn't really surprise me given the other things that have not been done correctly on this installation. For balancing should I still use the lockshield valve or should I use the control valve? The reason I ask this is that I understand that in balancing the rads you open the entry valve fully (normally the control valve) and tweak the exit valve (normally the lockshield valve) until the temperature difference between the two pipes is about 12 degrees C. In my case the valves are reversed so do I need to reverse the balancing process? I had this done some years ago by a plumber but probably need to do it again.


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    #6
    JamesM
    Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    Once again I will say that I am not an expert on this side of things. But, I feel that if a system is laid out properly, you will need the minimal amount of balancing. If I am helping someone out, if rads far from the boiler are not heating too well, I will suggest closing down the lockshield valves on the rads nearest to the boiler, and keeping the far away ones fully open. Trial and error will usually sort it out. The only time there are real problems, is when extra rads are fitted to an extension and the layout has not been planned properly.
    Jim.


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