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Alloy Wheels - STUCK!

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  • 25-01-2008 1:50pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 217 ✭✭


    Hello. Just looking for some help. I recently tried to install mudflaps on my car. Since I didn't have a right angle screwdriver with the correct dimensions, I needed to remove the wheels to get enough access to the wheel well. However, after removing the wheel nuts I found the wheel itself was stuck fast. I tried pulling and pushing as hard as I dared (using a bog standard jack from the boot so I didn't want to push my luck) but to no avail. So I eventually gave up.

    Three questions:

    I know this can happen with alloys if they begin to corrode and subsequently bond to the wheel hub. My car is ex-UK so it's even more likely. How should I go about getting these wheels off??? Is taking it to a garage the safest bet?

    Also, how likely is it that the hubs themselves will be damaged in the meantime and require replacement? How much would new hubs set me back?

    Assuming some eejit (me) doesn't crack the alloy following an eager belt with a lump hammer, will the alloys themselves need replacing?

    Many thanks,

    Swinger.


Comments

  • Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators Posts: 11,102 Mod ✭✭✭✭MarkR


    Happens all the time. You can loosen the wheel by slowly lowering the car with no nuts attached (real real slow). Jack takes pressure, weight of car breaks seal of road dirt that has built up. Other then that, big hammer and piece of wood against rear of wheel. Try hitting it top bottom left and right etc.

    You shouldn't need to replace the hub.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,269 ✭✭✭MercMad


    You wont need to replace the hub. I would suggest that you leave two bolts remaining, but leave them screwed in only hand tight. Lower the car and drive it forward and back briefly.

    Either that method or with the car secure on a good jack or stand, lie on your a55 and kick each side of the wheel, 180deg apart, repeatedly and swiftly.

    The above methods have never failed for me !


  • Registered Users Posts: 591 ✭✭✭NBar


    Do as above but leave the wheel nuts/bolts attached but loose cause if the jack should collapse you would be in an even bigger problem


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,013 ✭✭✭yayamark


    This happened me too, and i was in a rush to the ferry.

    I had to give it an unmerciful kick to get it off.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,570 ✭✭✭Rovi


    If you can't get something more substantial than the jack under the car (like a proper axle stand, block of timber, spare wheel, etc), try leaving the wheel nuts very loose and giving the wheel a good kicking. Seriously.

    Alternatively, run the nuts on finger tight and then back them off a half turn or so. Drive the car (slowly!) going from lock to lock in both forward and reverse.
    With a bit of luck you'll hear a 'crack' as the wheel and hub part company.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 217 ✭✭Swinging Looney


    Wonderful! Thanks everyone! Might well try it today while the rain is away. Although that wind looks pretty cold.........

    I was worried that I was looking at some stupid repair bill to replace wheels and/or hubs. Can I put grease or something on the hub afterwards to stop it happening again next time? Copper grease maybe?


  • Registered Users Posts: 591 ✭✭✭NBar


    yeah use copperd grease but if you have a wire brush give both the hubs and wheel a rub to make sure there is a good contact surface


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 135 ✭✭O7Pat


    If it is a front wheel turn the steering out and tap it from the inside


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 217 ✭✭Swinging Looney


    Is there any risk of damaging the studs on the hub if I put the weight of the car on a wheel with loosened nuts? Just thinking if the corrosion gives way at a late stage while I have a fair bit of weight on it, is it going to crack free and shift onto the studs? Would the old bit of timber be the best option? Mind you, I would need to go and buy a trolley jack then cos I won't trust my scissor jack while I'm whacking the back of the wheel with a mighty rubber mallet!


  • Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 39,746 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    1. No - you were not told to put the car down on 'loosened nuts'. PUt the car down on on the wheel which has two nuts in finger tight and then move the car (even drive it slowly). You should not damage anything and you will not be going fast nor far enough for the wheel to come off. All you are trying to do is break a seal - not make the wheel fall off.
    2. The scissor jack cannot be trusted for anything except and emergency!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 217 ✭✭Swinging Looney


    kbannon,

    Thanks for that. Although my definition of loosened appears to differ from yours. From 76 ft-lbs to finger tight is substantially loosened in my book! Point taken though......


  • Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 39,746 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    I had this terrible image of you driving along with the wheel wobbling everywhere and I just wanted to clear that up! :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 217 ✭✭Swinging Looney


    At least I would know it had broken the bond to the hub when it had overtaken me at the end of the road!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 217 ✭✭Swinging Looney


    Job done - finally!

    Tried everything from lowering the vehicle back onto the ground with finger tight nuts to driving around with the same set up and all to no avail. After 20 minutes of rubber mallet and piece of timber efforts failed too I got angry and gave the front of the tyre a decent kick and then off it came! I assume I had spent the past 40 minutes gently weakening the bond and the kick was the last straw as it were, but can't help thinking why I didn't try that first...

    Anyhoo, thanks everyone. Off to buy a trolley jack and some copper grease...


  • Registered Users Posts: 22,302 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    Anyhoo, thanks everyone. Off to buy a trolley jack and some copper grease...
    Aldi have one at the mo for €16.99. Also axle stands w. wheel chocks for €9.99.

    Not your ornery onager



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