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netopia 3347nwg upate problem

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭rc28


    Sponge Bob wrote: »
    double up means get length of phone wire

    cut it into c 15cm lengths , pull out the cores , either 4 or 6 or 8

    expose 15mm at each end of each core ( fag lighter will do it )

    Join 2 or maybe three together at the ends by twisting the copper around , replace the yellow wire with one double/ treble up and the black wire with another double/treble up and test stats again . Its the same idea as CC and the wire core direct scheme. We both think the yellow and black wires are a tad thin and want to thicken them .

    Then get the ladder ready :D
    Sorry I'm just not going to set my phone line alight because:
    1) I barely understand what you want me to do
    2)I'm chickening out as there's a good chance I'll do something wrong
    ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    If you double crap wire then you'll get crap on the double. rc28, I really feel you are wasting time if you don't fix the source of the problem.

    Lets start again and review - I believe you have confirmed that once you have removed the front panel off the Eircom box, then ALL extensions are dead ? If so, this means that the blue and white wires (in photo P1080459.JPG) linked to this faceplate are being used to feed your other extensions.

    As you will have noticed, the brown, green and orange pairs of wires are all spare. If you are wondering why you need to restore the faceplate for everything to work, I have included another pic which circles the connections that fit together to make the link from Eircoms inside connection to the faceplate and onwards to your extensions or to plug into this socket.

    Pic2 shows where to connect the two black Eircom wires that currently connect into the yellow box


    C


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 25,234 ✭✭✭✭Sponge Bob


    rc28 wrote: »
    Sorry I'm just not going to set my phone line alight because:
    1) I barely understand what you want me to do

    Phone wire is thin . Look at your photos . Get a few metres in woodies :D

    Chop burn and crimp into three together lengths in parallel in the garden , then bring it indoors ( put photo up here by all means )

    Wire in between junction box and NTU instead of yellow and black wires and see if it improves matters . If not put yellow and black back .

    Then again you could always get that :D:D electrician :D:D back instead .


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭rc28


    championc wrote: »
    If you double crap wire then you'll get crap on the double. rc28, I really feel you are wasting time if you don't fix the source of the problem.

    Lets start again and review - I believe you have confirmed that once you have removed the front panel off the Eircom box, then ALL extensions are dead ? If so, this means that the blue and white wires (in photo P1080459.JPG) linked to this faceplate are being used to feed your other extensions.



    C
    No, the 3rd extension does not go dead (as i said in last page), only the socket in the pics and the other one in the office which we connect the router to.
    I don't see how it will help because we do not use the NTU socket for our bb- the socket in the office originates from a point on the side of the house which is why i dont understand how it and the NTU could be in series.
    Can you please make it clearer based on the following photo:
    https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/85901/60314.JPG
    Do I unravel the thin yellow and thin black wires from the screw and replace each with 2/3 phone wires? Does it matter what colour the phone wires are and how is it possible to connect 2/3 at each screw?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 25,234 ✭✭✭✭Sponge Bob


    Its the 'new' extension thats not in series so up to "the White Box " tomorrow morning with ya .


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭rc28


    "Phone wire is thin . Look at your photos . Get a few metres in woodies
    chop burn and crimp into three together lengths in parallel in the garden , then bring it indoors"


    Ok do you mean the kind of phone wire that's in the following photo cause I have plenty of that spare in the house. There are 4 differenct coloured wires I can see from its connection- black, red, green,yellow;
    P1080463 (Large).JPG P1080465 (Large).JPG

    So I chop 2 pieces , remove the 4 internal wires and burn away the plastic at either end of each wire. Then I connect 2 wires to each screw where the yellow and black wire were before?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    rc28 wrote: »
    No, the 3rd extension does not go dead (as i said in last page), only the socket in the pics and the other one in the office which we connect the router to.

    OK, I got it now. The socket you call the 3rd is in fact your master (now we'll call it A), the eircom box socket must be the second (B) and your office the third (C) . If you look at the wiring and follow it, the cable runs should hopefully confirm this. I think you have already confirmed that if you connect your router at A then there is no change in signals ? If so, then open this box and strip back the cables a bit and re-make the connections. Ideally what you want is shiny copper wire.

    In socket B, I think you could simply cut away some of the green. orange or brown pair wire that is unused and use this to remake the yellow and black link. My gut feeling is that this wire is copper and not steel. However, as I have already pointed out, just get rid of it as seen in my two Pic1 and Pic2.

    Never burn away plastic coating - it's easy enough to strip away. You will end up coating the metal and possibly changing it's electrical conductivity properties.


    C


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭rc28


    The 3rd scoket is the newest and is unaffected by the other two and the stats are the normally the same when I plug the router into it except today when it brought the attenuation up to 54 and SN down to 7 (I think the phone wire I was using wouldn't 'click' into the socket properly).
    I have opend up the small white box that is outside and found nothing to suggest the wires are damaged/wet but there's no way I'm going disconnecting anything from it as it looked alot more complicated to disconnect them than in the NTU. It is also difficult to do as it is too high up to have a comfortable footing on the ladder. I opend up the faceplate of the NTU since that to have a look again but now my SNR has dropped to 21 and when I run a speedtest through the following it says my QOS has deteriorated too.
    http://www.irishisptest.com/runmyspeed.php
    I'm getting really fed up with how sensitive these wires are. All I want is to be able to get 3mb when the upgrades come through. SpongeBob said on another thread that when running line tests they test all the way to the router so maybe if I just unplug everything on the weekend of the upgrades (i'm on holiday then anyway) they will give me the upgrade? Wishful thinking I know!


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    Where does the thick black wire going into the yellow box beside the Eircom box go - underground or up to the gable ivy ?


    C


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭rc28


    championc wrote: »
    Where does the thick black wire going into the yellow box beside the Eircom box go - underground or up to the gable ivy ?


    C
    It goes up to the gable white box with all the ports on it.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    OK so that's simply an outdoor grade cable. Next step, how many wires connect into the 3rd socket (as I named 'A' earlier). I'm expecting two - one in and one out. Any chance you can open up and photograph please ?


    C


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭rc28


    The 3rd socket is the newest in the house. After I unscrew the screws on the faceplate of it I can only pull it from the wall by a few cm's. It's as if there is no slack inside it so I can pull it away further. I don't want to just yank it out either. However, from outside there is only wont line going to that socket, not 2 like the NTU and yellow box. My SNR has recovered back to 24 now but attenuation is still 52. I'm going to try a different router (my brother's) later on to see if there's a difference.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭rc28


    Edit: Nevermind, I got the faceplate open and here are some pics. Everything looks fine to me;
    P1080466 (Large).JPG
    P1080467 (Large).JPG
    P1080468 (Large).JPG


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    OK so this is NOT the master. This is just a link back to another place. Does this go to the White box outside ?

    Can you check the last connection to see if you have one or two connections inside it. I don't think we need a Pic yet


    C


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭rc28


    championc wrote: »
    OK so this is NOT the master. This is just a link back to another place. Does this go to the White box outside ?

    Can you check the last connection to see if you have one or two connections inside it. I don't think we need a Pic yet


    C
    Yes it goes back to the white box outside. The other socket in the office (which the router is connected to) gives the exact same stats as the NTU


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    And does this have just one wire pair ? What's the bets that the cable leading to this is white and is coming from the Eircom box ????

    So it looks like the master line comes into the White weatherproof box outside and splits to the new one pic'ed above and the yellow socket beside the Eircom box


    C


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭rc28


    championc wrote: »
    And does this have just one wire pair ? What's the bets that the cable leading to this is white and is coming from the Eircom box ????

    So it looks like the master line comes into the White weatherproof box outside and splits to the new one pic'ed above and the yellow socket beside the Eircom box


    C

    If you read my first few posts you'd know that the NTU (with the yellow box) has one line coming from the 'white weatherproof box' to the yellow box and the other(going to the NTU) comes from a point further up the gable that is covered in ivy where the eircom line connects with our house from the telephone pole. The socket in the office also appears to emerge from this same ivy covered point and certainly does not come from the 'white weatherproof box' but is somehow in series with the NTU. Yes, as I said the 3rd socket that i pictured last also emerges from the weatherproof box outside. The wire that feeds this weatherproof box also originates from the ivy covered point further up.

    Is that clear? On line feeds the office socket just like the socket I last pictured.
    I tried my brother's router but the stats are identical to my other 2247 which i suppose rules out a router problem.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    There is one final easy way to check. If you remove the front plate off the Eircom and plug an analog phone into the port with the red circle in this picture, do you get dialtone ? You should also get dialtone in the 3rd socket which you confirmed before that was always live when others off


    C


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,246 ✭✭✭rc28


    championc wrote: »
    There is one final easy way to check. If you remove the front plate off the Eircom and plug an analog phone into the port with the red circle in this picture, do you get dialtone ? You should also get dialtone in the 3rd socket which you confirmed before that was always live when others off


    C

    Yes the internal NTU socket works when i connect the router to it and the line stats remain the same. The 3rd socket (newest one) stays on all the time regardless of the other two being down or not.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    This confirms that

    1. The Eircom wire was split in the White Weatherproof box, hacking into it to take a short cut for bringing a connection to the 3rd socket. This is officially Eircom wire and Eircom property so they might refuse to do anything with the cable now.

    2. You office socket is connected to the blue and white wires in the faceplate of the Eircom socket.

    Therefore, if your signals are the same at both inside the Eircom socket or at the 3rd socket, then any problems MUST be coming from the new "Bodgit & Scarper" join in the white box, or else from the Eircom pole outside your gate (or wherever it may be).

    The 3rd socket should really have had a long length run down and connected to the plate in the Eircom box like the blue and white cable is now.


    C


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  • Registered Users Posts: 716 ✭✭✭Reesy


    EDIT AGAIN:

    heres a link to the 7.6 frimware http://www.fastaccess.drivers.bellsouth.net/#cayman

    couldnt find the 7.7

    Thanks! I upgraded to 7.5.0 & lost my WPA, couldn't get either laptop to connect. Upgraded again to 7.6 on your link & got it back.


  • Registered Users Posts: 230 ✭✭Isaac702


    I'm not entirely sure if it were necessary to revive such an old thread however since it is here and I'm sure it is the one that will appear for those looking for Netopia 3347NWG Updates.

    There are a few version of firmware which run on the Netopia 3347NWG. The latest 2 are listed bellow.

    Firmware 7.7
    It is currently being distributed by Quest however it is also available on Netopia's website. Link

    Firmware 7.8
    It is currently being distributed by Swisscom however it is also available on Netopia's website. Link

    I would recommend the latest build of the 7.7 firmware as the 7.8 build still has some bugs that need to be worked out. However that is not entirely surprising as it the first release of it on this hardware.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,612 ✭✭✭Dardania


    Isaac702 wrote: »
    I'm not entirely sure if it were necessary to revive such an old thread however since it is here and I'm sure it is the one that will appear for those looking for Netopia 3347NWG Updates.

    There are a few version of firmware which run on the Netopia 3347NWG. The latest 2 are listed bellow.

    Firmware 7.7
    It is currently being distributed by Quest however it is also available on Netopia's website. Link

    Firmware 7.8
    It is currently being distributed by Swisscom however it is also available on Netopia's website. Link

    I would recommend the latest build of the 7.7 firmware as the 7.8 build still has some bugs that need to be worked out. However that is not entirely surprising as it the first release of it on this hardware.

    Thanks for that - currently running 7.6.1r6 on my netopia...what does updating to 7.7 change/add? Wouldn't mind IPv6 but wouldn't say thats there! Does it work with PS3s in NAT 2 mode?


  • Registered Users Posts: 230 ✭✭Isaac702


    Unfortunately Netopia do not provide any kind of changelog with their firmware revisions.

    The main one that comes to mind is ADSL2+ support however if you are not on a package that needs this it is not particularly important.
    I also believe the 7.7 builds include some more features via the CLI. The web interface mainly stayed the same.

    It has been a while since I used the 7.6 firmware builds so I cant remember what other changes were made.


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