New vegetable garden

Yorky

I am now in the process of constructing some wooden raised beds on an uneven lawn and will (hopefully) finish up with level beds!

I intend doing the same sort of thing for a greenhouse: construct a level wooden framed base , fill it with topsoil, put a path down the centre of it, attach a greenhouse to the wooden perimeter frame and plant either side of the path. Is this a good idea?

Finally, does anyone know where to get a good quality greenhouse via mail order that does not need a dwarf-wall perimeter base i.e. that is high enough to do as described above? Also, is polycarbonate better than glass?

ttm

Yorky wrote: »

Finally, does anyone know where to get a good quality greenhouse via mail order that does not need a dwarf-wall perimeter base i.e. that is high enough to do as described above? Also, is polycarbonate better than glass?

Why not increase headroom and reduce bending by lowering the path?

Glass is 100% better for growing stuff. Polycarbonate is OK, warmer in the winter and safer with kids around but I'd always go with glass.

Yorky

I am now in the process of constructing some wooden raised beds on an uneven lawn and will (hopefully) finish up with level beds!

I have used pressure treated timber to make the beds and I'm now going to level them using timber cut at an angle. The 'cut' side of the timber will be in contact with the ground and I'm concerned about it rotting due to the pressure treated surface having been cut through.

Does anyone know if this will be a problem and if so how to alleviate it eg should I put a layer of plastic between the timber and the earth? I though about treating it with wood preservative but the timber is very wet and the preservative is not suitable for 'wood used for growing food'.

Any ideas?

Bicky

Hello yorky.
I cannot answer any of your questions because i am a complete novice.
I am thinking of doing something very similar at the moment and would really like to see some pictures to show how you are getting along. Especially the green house.
Good luck.
Jp

Minder

I would build the raised beds on some type of foundation. Depending on cost, a concrete base or a hardcore base with a sand blinding layer. Excavate a shallow trench, fill with broken bricks and other rubble, blind with sand and compact. This will ensure a level foundation. It should be about three inches below ground level at the shallowest point. The rubble and sand will drain well and the pressure treated timber should last for many years. Once the timber for the beds in in place, cover the foundation with topsoil or turf. Much easier than trying to build the beds by cutting timbers to match the contours of the sloping ground.

lucylu

I wouldn't build raised beds on a Concrete foundation. In years to come you will need to double dig to bring up new soil or to bury weeds. not a option for growing potatoes or root veg.

Put in your timbers first and hold in with steel pegs.and then back fill with soil & manure (but not for carrots)


as for a greenhouse.. we got ours from Homebase a couple of years ago. we were out of the delivery service area so we collected it.It is approx 16 by 14 with 4 opening windows and double slide doors. We have toughened glass and we had one broken window over the years where the wind blew it out as the clips were not fastened.

beer enigma

Yorky wrote: »

I am now in the process of constructing some wooden raised beds on an uneven lawn and will (hopefully) finish up with level beds!

I intend doing the same sort of thing for a greenhouse: construct a level wooden framed base , fill it with topsoil, put a path down the centre of it, attach a greenhouse to the wooden perimeter frame and plant either side of the path. Is this a good idea?

Finally, does anyone know where to get a good quality greenhouse via mail order that does not need a dwarf-wall perimeter base i.e. that is high enough to do as described above? Also, is polycarbonate better than glass?

I'm buying one through www.glasshouses.ie -worth a look

Yorky

Update: I have now made six raised beds (pictures to follow soon) and am considering making another two, if I really have to. They each measure 6' x 3' and are a minimum of 12" deep and they are to feed four people.

The problem of making another two is that when I eventually get my greenhouse, it will have to go about six feet downhill of some railway sleepers, which I am concerned about the toxins in the sleepers leaching into the soil.

Do I really need another two beds? If so, should I be concerned about the proximity of the railway sleepers to my greenhouse?

Yorky

Is clear plastic sheeting alright for lining raised beds? Only 25m rolls of black polythene at €18 are available locally but they cut me some clear plastic for €2!

Is there any reason not to use clear plastic?

Aeneas

Yorky wrote: »

Is clear plastic sheeting alright for lining raised beds? Only 25m rolls of black polythene at €18 are available locally but they cut me some clear plastic for €2!

Is there any reason not to use clear plastic?

Normally it's not necessary to line raised beds. It's not entirely clear why you plan to line them. Certainly you should not line the base since this will prevent drainage. Moreover, the roots of plants will need to grow down into the soil beneath the bed. This can be quite deep. Although a carrot may be only a few inches long, its almost invisible root system can reach down for several feet. Beetroot is similar. Even lettuce roots can go down to two feet. If you are lining the sides to prevent the soil touching the timber I would imagine that clear polythene would be fine. But is it really necessary? Your timber is already pressure treated, and think about the risk of encouraging slugs.
On the question of the number of beds its almost impossible to judge the needs of individual families. But I would be inclined to begin with the six you have made and try your growing skills on them before making any more, especially if you are a newcomer to veg growing. If you have your soil in you could be sowing now - lettuce, carrots, peas, broad beans, radishes, shallots, summer cabbage, kohl rabi. Beetroot and parsnip in a few weeks time; and then a few weeks on the summer veg - courgettes, French beans, runner beans, cucumber.

Yorky

Lateset photos and descriptions of raided beds so far...

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/Kilnadrain/P1020854.jpg
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/Kilnadrain/P1020853.jpg
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/Kilnadrain/P1020855.jpg
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/Kilnadrain/P1020858.jpg

And here's some photos of the railway sleepers in question - the ones adjoing the fruit trees.

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/Kilnadrain/P1020868.jpg
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/Kilnadrain/P1020869.jpg
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/Kilnadrain/P1020860.jpg

They seem to be very old and there is no odour nor sign of tar seepage from these - according to this link not all railway sleepers are the same http://www.railwaysleeper.com/railway%20sleeper%20treatments.htm
I think the ones adj. the fruit trees would fall into the 'sleeper 1' category 'Dutch Oak' which is about half way down the web page.

On the other hand the sleepers in the back garden seem to be newer and there is a strong odour and visible signs of tar.

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/Kilnadrain/P1020867.jpg
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/Kilnadrain/P1020866.jpg
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/Kilnadrain/P1020865.jpg

These are adjoining the proposed greenhouse site and adjacent to the raised beds so I think I will replace these (three to four in total).

I am concerned about having any railway sleepers but I'm tempted to leave the older ones next to the fruit trees in-situ.

Any comments on any of the above would be most welcome.

TheHairyFairy

Try http://www.morrispolytunnels.co.uk/craftsman.htm for your greenhouse. I got an 8 X 6 from him there for £285 sterling delivered. This is a decent enough size and comes with vent and horticultural glass.

Also add your support to http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055253752

maryxyz

Lucylu - why no manure for carrots ?

bmaxi

maryxyz wrote: »

Lucylu - why no manure for carrots ?

Carrots don't like rich ground, it causes them to fork.

maryxyz

Thanks LucyLu

Does anyone know if it is ok to use pelletted chicken manure in a vegetable plot ? I know you can't use it fresh as it would burn the veg. Apparently it is good to add to speed up a compost heap also.

Maryxyz

TheHairyFairy

bmaxi wrote: »

Carrots don't like rich ground, it causes them to fork.

No hitting a stone or other hard object causes them to fork AFAIK.

Irish Gardener

bmaxi wrote: »

Carrots don't like rich ground, it causes them to fork.

TheHairyFairy wrote: »

No hitting a stone or other hard object causes them to fork AFAIK.

Both will cause forking.

Yorky

A couple of questions:

How often should I water the raised beds (nothing showing in some and a few seedlings in others)?

The soil is cracking in some of the beds and I paid for this topsoil! - shall I just persevere and and add farmyard manure next year?

What is the best way to support peas and what space between the drills should I leave? It says 3ft on the packet!

maryxyz

The raised beds may need watering every evening depending on weather - just keep nicely moist. I also paid for topsoil which also cracked on top - so I spread a layer of organic compost all over the top after watering well, now it looks nicer & doesn't crack. You can spread the compost carefully around seedlings.

Sorry don't know about peas - I imagine 3 ft is for a commercial grower, but if you have an enormous garden, why not !

yop

I have been offered a tunnel, 10ft wide for 140 euro for 10 already formed tubes. What do you lads think? Should I snap it up?

bauderline

Seems like a good deal if you are serious about growing something in it. Is it just the tubes or do you get the covering as well ?

B.

Yorky

Another issue I had today is with calabrese and tomato seedlings. I sowed the seeds in a seed tray with a lid and the seedlings are ready to plant out into pots. I had the seed tray on an indoor windowcill and today I put it in the greenhouse with the lid off and the greenhouse door open for about an hour while I was busy elsewhere. The leaves seem like they have withered for some unknown reason - does anyone know why so and will they recover?

Yorky

With regard to peas, I have left nearly three feet between drills, as per the instructions on the packet. I'll get some posts and nettting for support- should I put it between the drills which would mean the netting is about 15 inches away from each drill?

yop

bauderline wrote: »

Seems like a good deal if you are serious about growing something in it. Is it just the tubes or do you get the covering as well ?

B.

Only the tubes lad.