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Snag List for an apartment

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  • 21-02-2008 3:13pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 337 ✭✭


    Hi Guys,

    I'm doing a snag list for a new apartment in blanchardstown (grove court) which i am getting of the affordable scheme.

    Is there anything obvious i should look out for?
    Has anybody any sample snag lists of main things to check for in new apartments.

    Don't want to pay for a professional snag.

    Any advise would be great.
    Cheers,


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 16,655 ✭✭✭✭astrofool


    Pay a professional. It's idiotic to buy a home, or anything that you're going to be paying off for 20+ years and not get it certified by a professional.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 298 ✭✭traceybere


    try neighbours.ie

    alot of the new estates are up there and people have group snags

    might helpyou out ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 18,988 ✭✭✭✭Del2005


    astrofool wrote: »
    Pay a professional. It's idiotic to buy a home, or anything that you're going to be paying off for 20+ years and not get it certified by a professional.

    But make sure they are good and reliable.

    Know a person who hired a pro and they missed a shed load of stuff. Later found out there where associated with the builders:eek:


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,326 ✭✭✭BC


    astrofool wrote: »
    Pay a professional. It's idiotic to buy a home, or anything that you're going to be paying off for 20+ years and not get it certified by a professional.

    Just because you pay someone doesn't mean they are going to find everything. Personally i think getting 3 or 4 different people (be they a professional, friends, relations whatever) to look at it separately is the best way to go.

    I had two different snaggers snag my apartment. They found just 1 thing that i didn't find myself (although i would have been very annoyed if i didn't spot it so am thankful for that). Neither of them spotted that the bath was leaking.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 999 ✭✭✭Noelie


    BC i'm not sure about your place, but often the water isn't turned on when the snag is being done. I know it wasn't when i had mine snagged.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,934 ✭✭✭egan007


    astrofool wrote: »
    Pay a professional. It's idiotic to buy a home, or anything that you're going to be paying off for 20+ years and not get it certified by a professional.

    Your building is already certified, by home bond you don't need a professional to snag.
    A snag is simple 'Is there anything about the finish that i'm not 100% happy with'
    A snag is - do doors close properly, is the paint finish ok, etc...

    divide your plan into rooms - divide every room in to sections - paint,doors etc.

    Here is one - and a very good one I might add

    Done my brother, he's a software engineer.

    1. KITCHEN
    i. Straighten all kitchen unit press doors.
    ii. Corner press to be made full depth – as per show house.
    iii. Gas fitting to be fitted to gas pipe.
    iv. Remove black marks from kickboard.
    v. Fix leak in plumbing under sink.
    vi. Fix wall above sink and repaint.
    vii. Bottom and top casing of boiler to be properly fitted.
    viii. Boiler to be commissioned and tested once gas is connected.
    ix. Cooker electric switch to be straightened.
    x. To be repainted near vent and window.
    xi. Fill gap at side of fridge.
    xii. Provide and fix door stopper to prevent wall damage. Repair damage already there.


    2. SITTING ROOM
    i. Deck boards on balcony to be secured.
    ii. Fit light on balcony.
    iii. Plaster to be applied to bottom of door frame and window frames from the balcony side.
    iv. Repaint wall near vent and behind door.
    v. Remove paint and plaster from floor.
    vi. Ceiling rose to be tightened.

    3. HOT PRESS
    i. Water cylinder to be replaced as it is dented at top right side.
    ii. Cylinder to be lagged.
    iii. Immersion to be connected.
    iv. Patch plaster behind pipes up high and paint.
    v. Cleanup paint and plaster beside pipes to left side if cylinder.
    vi. Paint ceiling and wall.

    4. MASTER BEDROOM
    i. Wardrobe – paint to be removed from right hand door.
    ii. Wardrobe – both doors on left side scraped on inside – replace.
    iii. Long window – repair gaps at bottom of brick work – external.
    iv. Socket in corner to be tightened.
    v. Repaint over both windows.
    vi. Fit door stop behind door to prevent banging.

    5. EN-SUITE
    i. Fit shower unit and ensure correct operation.
    ii. Repaint all walls.
    iii. Provide and fit toilet seat.
    iv. Ceiling globe to be fitted and secured.
    v. Fix skirting to left of toilet.
    vi. Remove grouting from tiles.
    vii. Grout tile and fix edging strip over sink.
    viii. Clean door handle on both sides.

    6. BEDROOM 2
    i. Glass in window opening section scraped – replace glass.
    ii. Repair plaster over light switch and repaint.
    iii. Fill cracks on wall with sockets and repaint.
    iv. Fit doorstop behind door to prevent banging.
    v. Window - Clean plaster from around glass seal.
    vi. Repaint area around air vent.
    vii. Tighten sockets.

    7. BATHROOM
    i. Refit door handle – fitted the wrong way.
    ii. Ceiling globe to be fitted and secured.
    iii. Bath handgrip is scraped – replace handle.
    iv. Secure sink pedestal to floor.
    v. Provide and fit toilet seat.
    vi. Repaint all walls.
    vii. Remove grouting from tiles.
    viii. Grout tile and fix edging strip over sink.

    8. HALLWAY
    i. Repaint at phone socket.
    ii. Provide intercom hand set.
    iii. Clean entrance door on both sides.
    iv. Entrance door stripe to be fitted on inside.
    v. Entrance door damaged on hinge side.
    vi. Keyhole of entrance door poorly finished – Is there a cover to be fitted front and rear?


    GENERAL
    Test and commission electrical installation and leave in satisfactory working order.

    Test and commission plumbing installation and leave entire in satisfactory condition. Ensure all fittings have adequate water supply and overflows.

    Test and commission heating installation and leave heating system in satisfactory working order.

    Rod through all drains, remove builders debris and silt and ensure that all drains are in satisfactory working order prior to occupation of the house.

    Clean off all paint splashes from light fittings, sockets etc. throughout the apartment.

    Thoroughly clean down all surfaces on completion and leave house in good habitable order and condition.

    Replace all missing radiator caps throughout apartment.


  • Registered Users Posts: 292 ✭✭RIRI


    Quote: Egan007 - Your building is already certified, by home bond you don't need a professional to snag

    Homebond covers major structural defects only.

    OP it's a good idea to hire someone to snag it for you, if you're paying them it's their job to find something wrong. Apart from the obvious (piant finishes / carpentry etc) run all the taps & flush toilets (provided water is on of course) this should highlight any leaks / blockages. I would ask them to turn the water on for this purpose - even a small amount of water can cause a lot of damage.

    AH properties are usually snagged by the council before the new purchaser anyway but I personally wouldn't take the risk

    Best of luck


  • Registered Users Posts: 78,400 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    egan007 wrote: »
    Your building is already certified, by home bond you don't need a professional to snag.
    Home Bond are only concerned that the building won't fall down within 10-12 years.


  • Moderators, Regional North West Moderators Posts: 19,120 Mod ✭✭✭✭byte
    byte


    http://www.bozzle.com/hd_Snagging.html

    Check that link, may be helpful, and has blank snag sheets.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,260 ✭✭✭jdivision


    If you're spending several hundred thousand euro you should be willing to pay less than e300 to get a snag list done.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,700 ✭✭✭tricky D


    Here's 2 or 3 you might add.

    1. Is the Mains cutoff tap actually under the kitchen sink like it should be?
    2. Flush all the toilets to check if they make that loud humming noise which often can mean the pipes aren't correctly secured, creating harmonic vibrations which are bad, very bad, mkay. Probably check taps too for this.
    3. Are any of your toilets (or sinks) connected directly to the mains as opposed to the water tank? Any toilets directly connected to the mains should have brass fitting into the cistern, not plastic. Dunno about sinks. Mains pressure fluctuates during the night and any poor installation of this fitting may result in catastrophic failure leading to flooding. Also check all of these fittings ensuring that they have been correctly screwed on.
    (Personally, I had always thought only the kitchen tap should be connected to the mains and everything else fed from water tank, but not these days)

    The story behind my point is this: 6am on sat morning around xmas, I flushed the loo, the pipe into the cistern made the loud humming noise (not for the first time), then the fitting at the side of the cistern failed spectacularly though thankfully not completely. This was at nighttime mains pressure, flooding everywhere at about 2/3 litres/min spraying everywhere. Emergency plumber came out 40 mins later, blocked the cistern supply with a brass stopper thing screwed in. That cost 400e which is about right believe it or not. He didn't fix it, just blocked it as is his brief. The cistern fitting had been plastic (should have been brass) and hadn't been screwed on properly, the threads were fncked (have photos), so it was just a matter of time. We were actually dead lucky I was there when it happened, as flatmate and me are night workers and if one of us hadn't been at home and awake, the shop below and possibly 2 other houses would have been ruined costing tens of thousands of euro. We could also have been asleep and wouldn't have noticed it until the afternoon or later.

    Lastly and crucially, the mains tap was in the wrong place so I couldn't find it until the landlord's maintenance fella came around. If it had been fitted in the right place, it would have taken about 30 secs to cut off the water and I wouldn't have cut myself to bits doing sh1t like climbing into attic a dozen times making a futile effort to drain water tank.

    The stress of all this was something else, nobody needs it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,326 ✭✭✭BC


    Noelie wrote: »
    BC i'm not sure about your place, but often the water isn't turned on when the snag is being done. I know it wasn't when i had mine snagged.

    The water was on! I refused to close until i could snag with it switched on.


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