Aritech cs350 house alarm

greep

Hi Guys,

I have a problem with my Aritech C350 alarm.
Since I moved in to a new place, the alarm was showing a Low Battery message...
Also, the alarm goes off when I switch the main electricity fuse.

I guess the first thing to do would be going to the Engineer Mode, but I don't know the code...
I was trying to follow the instructions from the manual,
<snip>

Is there a master engineer code for this type of alarm, or can they vary?
I would appreciate any codes & simple instructions I could try.

Thanks a mill!

altor

greep wrote: »

Hi Guys,

I have a problem with my Aritech C350 alarm.
Since I moved in to a new place, the alarm was showing a Low Battery message...
Also, the alarm goes off when I switch the main electricity fuse.

I guess the first thing to do would be going to the Engineer Mode, but I don't know the code...
I was trying to follow the instructions from the below manual, but went nowhere....
<snip>

Is there a master engineer code for this type of alarm, or can they vary?
I would appreciate any codes & simple instructions I could try.

Thanks a mill!

The external bell will ring when you down power the alarm system as it has its own back up battery. Turn off the mains to the control panel. Open control panel, disconnect the old battery and replace. The battery I would use is a 12V 7 Amp. When the internal bell rings just enter your user code on the keypad to turn off the alarm. Close up control panel and turn back on the mains. The default engineer code would be 1278 but this would of being changed at the time of the install.

KoolKid

Removed links to engineer manuals
The instructions there show how to replace the battery . If you really want engineer access you could try default it , although its not needed for this.

greep

altor wrote: »

The external bell will ring when you down power the alarm system as it has its own back up battery. Turn off the mains to the control panel. Open control panel, disconnect the old battery and replace. The battery I would use is a 12V 7 Amp. When the internal bell rings just enter your user code on the keypad to turn off the alarm. Close up control panel and turn back on the mains. The default engineer code would be 1278 but this would of being changed at the time of the install.

Thanks for the answer.
1) I was trying to enter the engineer mode by using the following two codes:
1278 - but when accepting the changes with the 'confirm' button, nothing happened... i.e. the system added a 'confirm' button as another, 5th character & then displayed "ACCESS DENIED" message.
01278 (as per the manual), but the 0 was not recognized, i.e. nothing was displayed on the screen after pressing 0 on the keypad.
Are there any special tricks, i.e. key combinations to enter the engineer mode?

2) Which box do I need to open?
The small control panel with the keypad on it?
or
The big box mounted to a wall in the storage room?
It may be a silly question, but am I replacing a small, flat battery (from the control panel) or the big battery which is stored inside the 'big box', in the storage room?

3) I am afraid that if I switch off electricity and disconnect e.g. the JP1 connector inside the big box, then I won't be able to stop the ring bell...
Is it possible to happen?

4) Is it possible to switch off the alarm & all the bells completely if I don't want to use it?
I would imagine there should be a relevant option in the Engineer Mode?
Or is there any way of doing it without entering the Engineer Mode, e.g. by disconnecting some cables in the main box?

Thanks for your help.

KoolKid

greep wrote: »

1) I was trying to enter the engineer mode by using the following two codes:
1278 - but when accepting the changes with the 'confirm' button, nothing happened... i.e. the system added a 'confirm' button as another, 5th character & then displayed "ACCESS DENIED" message.
01278 (as per the manual), but the 0 was not recognized, i.e. nothing was displayed on the screen after pressing 0 on the keypad.
Are there any special tricks, i.e. key combinations to enter the engineer mode?

You should not have to press anything after you enter the code. If its correct the screen will display Eng Mode (Arrow down)
The zero will not show as a key press. Zero = clear

greep wrote: »

2) Which box do I need to open?
The small control panel with the keypad on it?
or
The big box mounted to a wall in the storage room?

The big box mounted to a wall in the storage room.

greep wrote: »

It may be a silly question, but am I replacing a small, flat battery (from the control panel) or the big battery which is stored inside the 'big box', in the storage room?

The big battery

greep wrote: »

3) I am afraid that if I switch off electricity and disconnect e.g. the JP1 connector inside the big box, then I won't be able to stop the ring bell...
Is it possible to happen?

The external bell will continue to ring until the power is returned, this is normal.
Do not remove JP1 unless you are attempting to default the system.

greep wrote: »

4) Is it possible to switch off the alarm & all the bells completely if I don't want to use it?

Leaving it in engineer mode disables all alarms , tampers etc.
To power it down completely remove the mains power & battery & let the external bell run down . (Approx 20 minutes)

greep

Thanks for the answers!

KoolKid wrote: »

You should not have to press anything after you enter the code. If its correct the screen will display Eng Mode (Arrow down)
The zero will not show as a key press. Zero = clear

Unfortunately, after typing 0178 & waiting I get a message ACCESS DENIED, so I presume the code must have been changed...
Is there any other way of getting there (eng. mode)?

I was given one a different code, which works = CODE ACCEPTED, but it seems to be a User Code only.
Following the entry of that code, I get the following messages on the display:
Open Zone(s) 03 Kitchen, Cabinet Tamper
I cannot anything else at this point... i.e. enter any menu... :-/

Do not remove JP1 unless you are attempting to default the system.

If I default the system, will the eng. code be reset to 0178?
Also, will all the zones (sensors) be reset & would have to be set up again?

altor

greep wrote: »

Thanks for the answers!


Unfortunately, after typing 0178 & waiting I get a message ACCESS DENIED, so I presume the code must have been changed...
Is there any other way of getting there (eng. mode)?

I was given one a different code, which works = CODE ACCEPTED, but it seems to be a User Code only.
Following the entry of that code, I get the following messages on the display:
Open Zone(s) 03 Kitchen, Cabinet Tamper
I cannot anything else at this point... i.e. enter any menu... :-/


If I default the system, will the eng. code be reset to 0178?
Also, will all the zones (sensors) be reset & would have to be set up again?

The engineer code has being changed. 1278 is the factory default. You should not need to default the system just to change the battery. When you entered the user code it is just listing events in the log. Zone 3 open is a device window or door open in this zone. The cabinet tamper is the control panel you opened to get at the battery.

KoolKid

greep wrote: »

Thanks for the answers!


Unfortunately, after typing 0178 & waiting I get a message ACCESS DENIED, so I presume the code must have been changed...
Is there any other way of getting there (eng. mode)?

Not without defaulting the panel

greep wrote: »

I was given one a different code, which works = CODE ACCEPTED, but it seems to be a User Code only.
Following the entry of that code, I get the following messages on the display:
Open Zone(s) 03 Kitchen, Cabinet Tamper
I cannot anything else at this point... i.e. enter any menu... :-/

It a user code , but no permissions have been set up.

greep wrote: »

If I default the system, will the eng. code be reset to 0178?
Also, will all the zones (sensors) be reset & would have to be set up again?

Yes & Yes.

armor

Can i just say KoolKid u know ur stuff and thx a mill for sorting out my problem today A gent would recommend to anyone

KoolKid

Your welcome. Glad I had something spare to give you, albiet with some creative thinking. Anyway more than happy to get you out of that hole.

mikelovenotwar

Hi would it be possible for someone on here to pm me the manual for this aritech cs350, much appreciated.

KoolKid

mikelovenotwar wrote: »

Hi would it be possible for someone on here to pm me the manual for this aritech cs350, much appreciated.

PMed you that..

ronan45

Any opinions on Adding a GSM Dialler to my Aritech CS350,
Would it be preferable to just upgrade the keypad with a built in GSM dialler built in? (I think im right in saying the CS350 is about 10 years old now)
Alarm works perfect but would like to be able to know if its going off when im away.
PS i have a landline, with UPC

altor

ronan45 wrote: »

Any opinions on Adding a GSM Dialler to my Aritech CS350,
Would it be preferable to just upgrade the keypad with a built in GSM dialler built in? (I think im right in saying the CS350 is about 10 years old now)
Alarm works perfect but would like to be able to know if its going off when im away.
PS i have a landline, with UPC

You could use this Voice dialer with the UPC. The drawback with adding a dialer to the older systems is you get less information with regard alarm activation's. With a newer system and dialer it will tell you which zone activated.

cajetan

Hi
I got home from work yesterday and there was a buzzing noise coming from my Aritech CS350 control box.

Its a different noise from the much louder piercing bell that normally comes from the control box when the alarm is tripped. The noise was quite audible and could be heard downstairs even though the control box is located in the attic.

I don't have an external bell connected to the alarm.

There were no error messages on the pinpad and no warning lights. I tried arming/disarming the alarm several times and this did not help. The pinpad says the alarm is disarmed but the buzzing noise persists.

Eventually I just had to disconnect the alarm to stop the buzzing by removing the fuse and battery as described earlier in this thread. (On removing the control box panel the much louder ear piercing alarm went off in the attic. I was able to stop this by entering the code on the keypad but the other buzzing noise still continued)

There was a low battery signal about 4 weeks ago and I replaced the battery following the instructions in this thread and I have had no other problems until now.

Any ideas on how I can reconnect the alarm and stop this annoying buzzing noise ?

Many thanks for any help

KoolKid

So when you powered down the system totally it stopped?
But it wasn't the internal Siren or the keypad buzzer?
Was this system ever monitored? Its possible there is an AVI indicator used for monitoring that has gone faulty .
In the panel is there a second PCB?

altor

It does sound like the monitoring buzzer is gone faulty. Locate this in the control panel and disconnect should solve the problem.

cajetan

KoolKid wrote: »

So when you powered down the system totally it stopped?

Yes, removing the fuse and the battery and it totally stopped, Connecting the battery (but with the fuse still out) it started again.

But it wasn't the internal Siren or the keypad buzzer?

No, definitely not the siren or the keypad buzzer, It was hard to say whether the sound was coming from the control panel or a white box just above the control panel but definitely coming from one of those 2 in the attic.

Was this system ever monitored? Its possible there is an AVI indicator used for monitoring that has gone faulty .
In the panel is there a second PCB?

No, it as far as I'm aware it was never monitored. It was installed when I moved in but I'm there 8 years and I've never been aware of any monitoring, I don't think there is a second PCB, I'll check tomorrow.

The noise is quite loud (but nowhere near as loud as a siren). Its a high pitched beep and sounds like an electronic board thats dying if that makes sense/ It kind of reminds me of the noise that those games used to make where you had to guide a wire loop along a copper wire without touching it, and if you did, you get this beep.

cajetan

altor wrote: »

It does sound like the monitoring buzzer is gone faulty. Locate this in the control panel and disconnect should solve the problem.

I'll try. What does the monitoring buzzer look like and how would I disconnect ? I don't have the manual

altor

It is the little white box. Open this and disconnect. Make sure you tape up the wires you disconnect.

cajetan

altor wrote: »

It is the little white box. Open this and disconnect. Make sure you tape up the wires you disconnect.

OK, thanks for that. I'll try tomorrow,

Just to confirm though, The little white box is inside the control panel ?

There is another white box completely separate to the control panel and above it. It seems that the siren is coming from this white box. So I presume I don't touch this one ?

altor

cajetan wrote: »

OK, thanks for that. I'll try tomorrow,

Just to confirm though, The little white box is inside the control panel ?

There is another white box completely separate to the control panel and above it. It seems that the siren is coming from this white box. So I presume I don't touch this one ?

It is the size of a sensor used on a window. Can be in the control panel or located beside it. Usually has a call monitoring sticker on it to, could of fallen off. This is where the noise is coming from.

KoolKid

If it is a monitoring indicator it will have 4 connections... + - and 2 tampers.
Just disconnect the + and - and close back up.
The tampers may still be connected.

DeborahMeaden

Can anyone tell me if the contacts can be unwired from the alarm system. I just had a fella out to replace the panel and keypad on my alarm. He was
saying that these were shot. So he replaced them and charged me for that. Then when all this was done he told me that the contacts are not working, but that the sensors are. Can it be the case that all my contacts are not working? And were never. Ive just moved into the house so dont how it was setup. But apparently this was how it was.

Thanks all,
It's one of the aritech s350's

altor

DeborahMeaden wrote: »

Can anyone tell me if the contacts can be unwired from the alarm system. I just had a fella out to replace the panel and keypad on my alarm. He was
saying that these were shot. So he replaced them and charged me for that. Then when all this was done he told me that the contacts are not working, but that the sensors are. Can it be the case that all my contacts are not working? And were never. Ive just moved into the house so dont how it was setup. But apparently this was how it was.

Thanks all,
It's one of the aritech s350's

The contacts would be wired in series with the shock sensor so if the sensor is working so should the contacts if wired in series.

DeborahMeaden

altor wrote: »

The contacts would be wired in series with the shock sensor so if the sensor is working so should the contacts if wired in series.

Yeah that's what he was saying to me. They are wired in series but I just find it so hard to believe that all of the contacts would never have been working. If it was one or two I'd understand but all of them.

And another thing that is adding to my confusion. this alarm was monitored by a monitoring company prior to us moving in. Would the company not have some sort of obligation to ensure the contacts work before monitoring the system?

Thanks again for the replies. Good to get some feedback from the community.

KoolKid

For a monitored alarm it should have been serviced regularly. It should also have been certified initially as up to the relevant standards standards

neilcccc

Hi, could somebody please PM me that user manual & engineer manuals for the Aritech CS350?
I've had a low battery light for ages now and it was only when the power went out a couple of nights ago that I had a problem. When the power came back on the system wouldn't take my normal code and the alarm wouldn't stop blaring, so I ended up just flipping the fuse switch to stop it. It was 0130.
I've since found and used the default engineer code to set up my normal code again and it all seems fine except for the battery. It is a 12v 3.2ah battery but the one page wiring diagram I found inside the main box says 7ah, so I just to check that I'm getting the right thing before I get a replacement.
Thanks!

KoolKid

I PMed you those.

DeborahMeaden

If it wasn't too much hassle could I get those manuals off ya as well?

Thanks in advance,