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Got myself a triton 2 - What power supply?
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01-03-2008 12:08am#1
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loopingfred wrote: »That will be a yes to both questions !
Cheers for your reply. What are those plastic covers called and where can I get them?
Any recommendation for a power supply?0 -
If you are choosing a system to use for your future models try these:
At (0.2mOhms) gold 4mm banana connectors have half the internal resistance of Deans (0.4mOhms) and therefore can handle far higher power. eg 80 amps continuous no problem, whereas Deans will get hot over 50amps continuous are and not usable over 70 for pulse power.
BTW The cheap ones have base metal inside (under the plating) and are no good.
As to the design: The "bunch of bananas" has an internal rotary scraping effect during use and over time this maintains the clean surface of connection, whereas other types of connector "grease up" over time and use, increasing their resistance to current passing through them and increasing loss through heat.
And notice the way we put one male and one female on a battery, making it automatically polarity protected, that way a bit of heatshrink is all that's required, no plastic cover needed! (= lighter weight, less bulky, more convenient)0 -
If you are choosing a system to use for your future models try these:
At (0.2mOhms) gold 4mm banana connectors have half the internal resistance of Deans (0.4mOhms) and therefore can handle far higher power. eg 80 amps continuous no problem, whereas Deans will get hot over 50amps continuous are and not usable over 70 for pulse power.
BTW The cheap ones have base metal inside (under the plating) and are no good.
As to the design: The "bunch of bananas" has an internal rotary scraping effect during use and over time this maintains the clean surface of connection, whereas other types of connector "grease up" over time and use, increasing their resistance to current passing through them and increasing loss through heat.
And notice the way we put one male and one female on a battery, making it automatically polarity protected, that way a bit of heatshrink is all that's required, no plastic cover needed! (= lighter weight, less bulky, more convenient)
Oh, I was led to believe deans were the best. Are you sure banana plugs don't get loose after a while?
So is it with a soldering iron then that we connect the wires to the banana plugs?0 -
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Well that is the point I make over and over. That claim would be marketing misinformation. I gave the figures for both types.workaccount wrote: »Oh, I was led to believe deans were the best.
The higher resistance Deans type loses more power, and causes more voltage falloff between battery and motor than 4mm banana, and not by a small margin.
Do you mean the collar (of bananas)? I once damaged a plug, and it came loose. Ordinarily you can remove it with a tool. I once saw an idiotic "instructions webpage" where the guy suggested removing it before soldering them onto cables .... maybe he also removes the engine from his automobile before filling up the petrol tankworkaccount wrote: »Are you sure banana plugs don't get loose after a while?
Or do you mean the attachment of plug and cable? If the solderjoint is bad it will break later under mechanical pulling or twisting. We tug REALLY hard on them to test them after soldering. You learn to do better soldering as you do more over time.
Yes. A good powerful soldering iron, like eg 100 watts.workaccount wrote: »So is it with a soldering iron then that we connect the wires to the banana plugs?0 -
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