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Help... Need a new Lamba(?) sensor......

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  • 02-03-2008 6:51pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,601 ✭✭✭


    ...... for my MX5. Engine light has been on for two week now. Sent car for service and my mechanic says I need a new lamba sensor. forgive my ignorance but have not got a clue what that is. Does anyone know how much it'll cost? Also should I get a Mazda one or a spurious one? would there be much of a difference in price/quality?:confused:

    thanks for reading.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,651 ✭✭✭Captain Slow IRL


    Try to find an NTK stockist, any decent motor factor should be able to supply you with one.

    I'm not sure about your car, but some of the more modern cars can have 2 lambda sensors - if yours has 2, find out which one it is.

    It'll cost between 100 to 200 euro for one - labour should not amount to much on top, but you may need the engine management light erased which could cost you a little extra.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    Ha!

    I was just going to start a forum on the same thing. I found out mine was gone when i stuck in the VAG on Sat. I thought it was a cheap job, as in not 100-200:o... Does any know if this sensor effects fuel consumption?


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,357 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    I would buy a genuine one. It is a sensor located in the exhaust reading ****** levels in the exhaust gases. It then sends signals to the engine management to change fuel mixture to keep engine as clean and economical as possible. It would have an effect on fuel consumption is many cases. I would guess at being 100 at least and yes some cars have two of these, one towards front of exhaust and one further back. Fitting is a two minute job once car is on a lift as it is screwed out of exhaust and new one put in. (can get welded in with heat leading to some hassle but mostly not)


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    mickdw wrote: »
    I would buy a genuine one. It is a sensor located in the exhaust reading ****** levels in the exhaust gases. It then sends signals to the engine management to change fuel mixture to keep engine as clean and economical as possible. It would have an effect on fuel consumption is many cases. I would guess at being 100 at least and yes some cars have two of these, one towards front of exhaust and one further back. Fitting is a two minute job once car is on a lift as it is screwed out of exhaust and new one put in. (can get welded in with heat leading to some hassle but mostly not)

    Would this have enough of an effect to benifit if changed? As in is it worthwhile changing(plan on changing car in June)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 727 ✭✭✭Oilrig


    Hey guys, don't diss the mechanic for charging you to turn out the fault light on your dash, the kit to enable them to do this costs a lot of money, often thousands, they have to pay for it by charging you...

    PS I'm not one of these.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    Oilrig wrote: »
    Hey guys, don't diss the mechanic for charging you to turn out the fault light on your dash, the kit to enable them to do this costs a lot of money, often thousands, they have to pay for it by charging you...

    PS I'm not one of these.

    Have access to the kit. Found out when i was playing with it:p


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,357 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Would this have enough of an effect to benifit if changed? As in is it worthwhile changing(plan on changing car in June)

    If you have no problems, dont touch it. It may only be marginally outside of normal working limits. It would be interesting to know if your emmissions are normal or not.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    mickdw wrote: »
    If you have no problems, dont touch it. It may only be marginally outside of normal working limits. It would be interesting to know if your emmissions are normal or not.

    Passed Nct not only 3 weeks back so i'd imagine no too far off... Fuel consumption worries me... Or else i do too much driving:rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,651 ✭✭✭Captain Slow IRL


    How about changing the air filter and spark plugs first then!? That'd probably be the best solution for now!


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭landcruiserfj62


    A Lambda or Oxy (oxygen) sensor measures the amount of oxygen present in your exhaust gases. It lets the engine management system know whether the engine is running rich or lean. On some cars, the service schedule requires them to be replaced at 40,000-50,000 miles. It is also worth pointing out that it is one of the parameters measured on your NCT test.

    Some can be tricky to remove and require special tools, some are very easily removed. Either way, leave it to a professional.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    land9 wrote: »
    How about changing the air filter and spark plugs first then!? That'd probably be the best solution for now!

    Done and done only in november...


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,651 ✭✭✭Captain Slow IRL


    If it passed the emission test for the NCT, there can't be a lot wrong with it! If any major sensors or components were failing, you would fail it.

    Try checking your tyre pressures and taking any unnecessary crap out of the boot?
    Cheap petrol (I find, anyway) gives poor mpg - where you fill up?


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    land9 wrote: »
    If it passed the emission test for the NCT, there can't be a lot wrong with it! If any major sensors or components were failing, you would fail it.

    Try checking your tyre pressures and taking any unnecessary crap out of the boot?
    Cheap petrol (I find, anyway) gives poor mpg - where you fill up?

    From some odd reason i think u know me haha... Only last week i checked the psi in the tyres, (all 29-30{195/50R15}) and was told to stay away from Apple Green as the petrol is piss water. I fill up in the job petrol station next to the garage (Esso)... I can't imagine esso being ****e petrol, and my boot is empty:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭landcruiserfj62


    First of all Limrick-man, how exactly did you discover you had an issue with your Lambda sensor. Did the engine management light come on?? You mention you were playing with the diagnostic tool! Did it record a present or past fault code assosiated with the lambda sensor, or did you find an incorrect voltage output in data monitor or whatever function your diagnostic tool uses. What made you plug in the diagnostic tool in the first place??

    You say you passed your nct. This would indicate at the time of testing, your lambda reading was within the set parameters (0.9-1.1 of lambda).


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    First of all Limrick-man, how exactly did you discover you had an issue with your Lambda sensor. Did the engine management light come on?? You mention you were playing with the diagnostic tool! Did it record a present or past fault code assosiated with the lambda sensor, or did you find an incorrect voltage output in data monitor or whatever function your diagnostic tool uses. What made you plug in the diagnostic tool in the first place??

    You say you passed your nct. This would indicate at the time of testing, your lambda reading was within the set parameters (0.9-1.1 of lambda).

    Have one in work, so i got one of the lads to throw it in to see if there was any problems, (i was worried about fuel consumption) and that popped up on the diagnostic. Found out what the lamba was and put 2 and 2 together.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,601 ✭✭✭DetectivFoxtrot


    thanks for the advice lads. think I'll go with the authentic sensor, mechanic just told me there's not too much in the difference (price), also nct is due in a few months so wanna do things right.... cheers ;)

    can I ask another question while I'm here? I bought the car last year and the petrol light was broken (found out the hard way - ran out of petrol on Nass Rd). There's definitely meant to be a light (being a girl I read the manual!!). would an ordinary mechanic fix such a problem or would it have to go into Mazda dealer? (btw I'm still trying to convince my mechanic that there should be a light, he reckons there shoudn't!!)


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    thanks for the advice lads. think I'll go with the authentic sensor, mechanic just told me there's not too much in the difference...

    I haven't ever heard of a light going, also haven't ever heard of there not being a light.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 542 ✭✭✭groupb


    I use mx5 parts in England. I've bought all my parts from them on line. It's great when you place an order and a courrier arrives 3 days later with OM parts at a fraction of the price. The only downside for me was that my wife intercepted my last delivery. Thinking of asking them to write "essential" on the next box. BTW .Ask them to send you a catelogue - loads of goodies. Theres's a warning light on my mx5. What year is yours?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 542 ✭✭✭groupb


    Just checked the mx5 parts site. Depending on your type of car they go from 34 euros to 124euros.(the lambda sensor). They normally have a delivery charge on top of that.
    They are origonal mazda parts.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,601 ✭✭✭DetectivFoxtrot


    groupb wrote: »
    Just checked the mx5 parts site. Depending on your type of car they go from 34 euros to 124euros.(the lambda sensor). They normally have a delivery charge on top of that.
    They are origonal mazda parts.

    mine is 2002.

    Would they sell a bulb for the petrol light? Would it be easy for my mechanic to fit? (don't want to be charged an arm and a leg!)

    what is the name of the website? thanks;)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 542 ✭✭✭groupb


    Its mx5 parts.co.uk.
    Just type sensor in the search box and it will show you pictures and a description of the sensors available.The bulb should be in the electrical section.
    I bought my mx5 (1992) as a project , and with the parts I got from them I fixed it up and put it through the NCT which it passed. Remember , put the car through the test BEFORE you get any work done.Not saying your mechanic is a chancer , but they often find "dubious" faults.
    Good luck and happy motoring.Ps you should have your roof down today.


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭landcruiserfj62


    To limrick-man, you need to be more specific here. Its interesting the only reason you put the diagnostic tool on the vehicle in the first place, was because you were worried about fuel consumption. The diagnostic tool will show if sensors are working within parameters, and will also store past and present faults? What do you mean, it popped up?

    im passionate about my trade, thats why it does my nut in, when salesmens, or other staff, or freinds of staff members "throw", or "plug in" the "computer" because they have fuel consumption or other problems!

    i dont mean to sound rude by the way :rolleyes:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 542 ✭✭✭groupb


    +1 . I'm a qualified fitter , but recently I've been working in car sales.
    I hung around with the mechanics at lunch time as they were the only ones in the garage that had any interest in cars.
    The excuses that other sales people used to use to cover for a troublesome car to a customer were a joke.They used the "plug it into a computer" one on a regular basis.
    During one quiet day I explained to some of the other sales staff how the four stroke cycle worked and they were genuinely amazed. I did use the "suck , squeeze , bang, blow" explanation which got a few laughs.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,601 ✭✭✭DetectivFoxtrot


    groupb wrote: »
    ...Ps you should have your roof down today.


    no way!!! It's baltic out - where r u - Jamaica?? :)
    anyway it's a hartop - not coming off until at least April!!!

    jst searched lambda sensor on that site, they don't do'em:rolleyes:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 542 ✭✭✭groupb


    It also goes by the name of "oxygen" sensor. They do have them. I got a single wire one.
    Whats this about a hard top? Next thing you'll want an electric roof. A good wind blocker/jacket and the heater at NO.4 = happy motoring.
    Again good luck!


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    To limrick-man, you need to be more specific here. Its interesting the only reason you put the diagnostic tool on the vehicle in the first place, was because you were worried about fuel consumption. The diagnostic tool will show if sensors are working within parameters, and will also store past and present faults? What do you mean, it popped up?

    im passionate about my trade, thats why it does my nut in, when salesmens, or other staff, or freinds of staff members "throw", or "plug in" the "computer" because they have fuel consumption or other problems!

    i dont mean to sound rude by the way :rolleyes:

    I'll try say it as clearly as possilbe lol. My sales manager bought a beetle for his misses, and was bringin the tool with him (thee beetle had a traction control light on), and i said to him about my fuel economy being fairly ****e. So he, being fairly mechanically minded used the diagnostic on me car. And then the whole lamba sensor thing came up. So on, so forth:D (in past weeks worked out about 220 miles per 42.00 petrol) {btw, its a 1l polo:o}...


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