Firebird Super Q Boiler

jimf

take the advice given above by billy what you have taken to pieces is the oil pressure adjustment valve and even if you manage to put back together correctly you will not be able to set the burner up right without gauge fga etc when engineer is with you ask him to show you the correct bleed point

scientist

I ran out of oil and the firebird locked out. I bled the oil through and it's flowing well but it will not fire up. I just got oil so no probs there, I checked the photocell. I read here to press the other reset button under the see through plastic at the front , which I did but now the firebird is not locking out after 10 secs anymore it's just overriding the reset and keeping going. I turned it off and on. But no luck. Any help would be very much appreciated!

jimf

remove the photocell from the control box and refit the control box if the burner fires and ignites then goes to lock out your cell is faulty and needs to be replaced

scientist

It won't ignite with or without the photocell, it doesn't lockout either!

jimf

then the next thing to rule out is the control box but no way of doing this without a spare box it sounds like your burner is not going through the ignition process so not going to lockout

scientist

Thanks for the help. The motor is running but no ignition at all. So maybe if I just leave it alone the control panel will reset itself? That happened the last time. It just fired up the next morning.

jimf

scientist wrote: »

Thanks for the help. The motor is running but no ignition at all. So maybe if I just leave it alone the control panel will reset itself? That happened the last time. It just fired up the next morning.

any moisture or dampness around the control box area seen a few if damp would do this and when dried out would work away again as normal

scientist

Ill cross my fingers and let you know what happens in the morning . In the meantime it's freezing. I am defo going to put in solid fuel next time I get a few bob together.

scientist

Ok, we put it on this morning and it worked but now it's stopped again. I'm just leaving it alone again now for awhile and see. Just not igniting.

Robbie.G

scientist wrote: »

Ok, we put it on this morning and it worked but now it's stopped again. I'm just leaving it alone again now for awhile and see. Just not igniting.

It's time to look for a pro.Go to Oftec.org and you can search for a tech in your area or post on the plumbing and heating section say where your located and someone there will be able to get the job done for you

EoC

JamesM wrote: »

I don't want to be criticising you, but in most cases it is a simple job if you have a set of allen keys. You just loosen the one allen screw that I described in your photo - the air bubles out - and you tighten it again.
You have rounded off the plug for the oil pressure gauge by using something like a pliers, instead of a spanner - if you keep using this tool, you will not be able to open the plug someday. If you remove the plug as you recomend, you may loose the washer, which very often drops to the ground without people noticing - then you have a leak that won't stop no matter how much you tighten it. Also if there is a full tank of oil, there will be quite a flow from there once the air has cleared. If you do not have an allen key and you loosen this plug, you should not take it out fully.
Also in most cases, you do not need to take off the oil line - and certainly not suck it.

The green arrow shows the correct allen screw for bleeding an airlock.

04-06-201: Update. Boiler airlocked again. Note: As JamesM mentioned above you don't have to go to the trouble that I did in loosening screws etc..
As he mentioned all you need is an allen key which goes in on the side of the burner. That worked a charm for me today as I didn't even have any leakage. Just fire up the boiler with the RED button, loosen the side nut with an allen key and hey presto it was fixed in no time.
Thanks to James it's all sorted......

garroff

Can anyone tell me if the Firebird Super q 50/82 is a condensor boiler?

Robbie.G

garroff wrote: »

Can anyone tell me if the Firebird Super q 50/82 is a condensor boiler?

It is a standard efficiency boiler.
The enviro max is firebirds condensing boiler range

garroff

Does it make economic sense to change it?

Billy Bunting

garroff wrote: »

Does it make economic sense to change it?

That would depend on your system and how well the boiler has been looked after and whether its running at its optimum efficiency. If your not looking to change immediately i would suggest a service and set up using a flue gas analyser, the service report will tell you whether its time for change.

garroff

Billy
many thanks

Morris_fe1s

Ive a firebird 90/120 but cant see the bleed screw. Its a willow pump i think. Any help much appreciated.

I thought i released it - on the last photo bolt next to yellow & green wire and loads of water just comes out... its endless

Robbie.G

Morris_fe1s wrote: »

Ive a firebird 90/120 but cant see the bleed screw. Its a willow pump i think. Any help much appreciated.

I thought i released it - on the last photo bolt next to yellow & green wire and loads of water just comes out... its endless

What's the problem
What are you looking to bleed air or oil

Morris_fe1s

Robbie.G wrote: »

What's the problem
What are you looking to bleed air or oil

well the oil ran out - and we just got more oil for the central heating and im trying to get the air lock/ water out so i can turn heating on...there are a few connections though

Robbie.G

Morris_fe1s wrote: »

well the oil ran out - and we just got more oil for the central heating and im trying to get the air lock/ water out so i can turn heating on...there are a few connections though

Your in the wrong place altogether.
First thing is you need to remove the box on the front of the boiler to expose the burner, then you need to remove the cover of the burner locate the oil bleed screw.

Morris_fe1s

i think i found it - u put a little allen key in and twist - didnt hear any air come out - though - then i see the big eded button with warning signs on it only use copper

Robbie.G

Morris_fe1s wrote: »

i think i found it - u put a little allen key in and twist - didnt hear any air come out - though - then i see the big eded button with warning signs on it only use copper

Jesus no that's the electrical connections.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=BE219DD38ACE60B4!175&authkey=!AEu6m0NrRrqKlxk&v=3&ithint=photo%2c.jpg
Here's where you bleed burner .Either open nut of Allen key at side of pump.
Under no circumstances touch the marked don't touch

Morris_fe1s

ok thats a better photo

the hexagon tiny - next to flat head

i turnes the allen key didnt do much - what next?

do i switch it on from mains then pree red button top right of photo?

Robbie.G

Morris_fe1s wrote: »

ok thats a better photo

the hexagon tiny - next to flat head

i turnes the allen key didnt do much - what next?

The hex nut under the flat head open it slightly until you get oil or at the side of the pump there is a Allen screw and it can be bled there also.
If you have no oil at those points you have a problem with your oil supply and probly need a tech to sort it

Morris_fe1s

Robbie.G wrote: »

The hex nut under the flat head open it slightly until you get oil or at the side of the pump there is a Allen screw and it can be bled there also.
If you have no oil at those points you have a problem with your oil supply and probly need a tech to sort it

i opened that - and air came out.. no oil though... any other thoughts no? press the red button and turn on at mains? the switches

Robbie.G

Morris_fe1s wrote: »

i opened that - and air came out.. no oil though... any other thoughts no? press the red button and turn on at mains? the switches

Close bleed screws turn on power try to fire boiler you will need to press reset.
If it doesn't fire open bleed screw again and see if that will bleed.Leave bleed screw open until you get a flow of oil. If that doesn't work you have a supply problem,fire valve closed,blocked filter

Morris_fe1s

Robbie.G wrote: »

Close bleed screws turn on power try to fire boiler you will need to press reset.
If it doesn't fire open bleed screw again and see if that will bleed.Leave bleed screw open until you get a flow of oil. If that doesn't work you have a supply problem,fire valve closed,blocked filter

oil came out - its trying to fire up for 30 seconds makes the noise then switches off - shall i keep trying

jimf

are you sure you actually ran out of oil in the first place

Robbie.G

Morris_fe1s wrote: »

oil came out - its trying to fire up for 30 seconds makes the noise then switches off - shall i keep trying

Sounds like a pump or solinoide problem.
Looks like your goin to need to call in a tech

Morris_fe1s

Robbie.G wrote: »

Sounds like a pump or solinoide problem.
Looks like your goin to need to call in a tech

yeah shes trying to reboot for 15 seconds then stops

i did hear of a lad putting a hoover onto the end of some part of it?? any ideas

jimf

Morris_fe1s wrote: »

oil came out - its trying to fire up for 30 seconds makes the noise then switches off - shall i keep trying

no stop now if you have an ignition issue ie faulty electrodes you could be flooding the base of the boiler do as Robbie suggested call a tech

Robbie.G

Morris_fe1s wrote: »

yeah shes trying to reboot for 15 seconds then stops

i did hear of a lad putting a hoover onto the end of some part of it?? any ideas

Don't touch anything else you could do more damage than good it's time to leave it to a pro.

Fiddlesnap

I have had the plumber out 3 times to fix mine - now I always do it myself. I must be qualified at this stage. Loosen the the hexagonal bleed screw - wait until there is a flow of oil coming out then hit the reset button. You may have to do this a few times but it should work after that.

Morris_fe1s

Any ideas what red switch function is in 1st picture please. In picture 2 also any idea what the red nipple and the black dial does.
There is also a little black nipple not in photo any ideas?

scudo2

Fiddlesnap wrote: »

I have had the plumber out 3 times to fix mine - now I always do it myself. I must be qualified at this stage. Loosen the the hexagonal bleed screw - wait until there is a flow of oil coming out then hit the reset button. You may have to do this a few times but it should work after that.

NOT THE SCREW in the black hexagonal nut. Do not touch it. The term screw was only a figure of speech by previous poster.
Bleed NUT is the 15mm nut directly below the screw in the hexagonal nut.
If you've twisted the SCREW then you've changed the burner pressure setting and will need service engineer to re set it at the right pressure.
If not you will have big problems.

Robbie.G

Morris_fe1s wrote: »

Any ideas what the red nipple and the black dial and red switch function is please.
im most concerned about the black dial as it seemed like it was pumping water

The first pic is the water circulating pump
The second is a auto air vent with red cap and the other
Is the pressure relief valve or safety valve as it is also know if the water pressure in the boiler exceeds 3 bar the valve open and releases the pressure to stop the boiler busting/ blowing up

bubric

hi lads im looking to replace the tiny rubber o ring that sits under the allen screw any ideas where id get one in Limerick ?? (coat)

Robbie.G

bubric wrote: »

hi lads im looking to replace the tiny rubber o ring that sits under the allen screw any ideas where id get one in Limerick ?? (coat)

Don't know what o ring you mean.Whats the grub screw connected to. You should be able to get parts for the burner in any half decent plumbing suppliers

snoman

I ran out of oil and then bled the boiler and hit the restart button and it started fine but continued leakin oil even with the 'bleed' nut shut tight. When I turn it off completely it still drips a bit, seemingly from slightly further back.... any suggestions gratefully accepted. Thanks.

Robbie.G

snoman wrote: »

I ran out of oil and then bled the boiler and hit the restart button and it started fine but continued leakin oil even with the 'bleed' nut shut tight. When I turn it off completely it still drips a bit, seemingly from slightly further back.... any suggestions gratefully accepted. Thanks.

Did you refit the steel washer that's under the bleed nut

Billy Bunting

as per Robbie, small seal often drops off when removing the nut.

snoman

Robbie.G wrote: »

Did you refit the steel washer that's under the bleed nut

Only loosened nut, didn't remove. Will look in better light tomorrow.

scudo2

The treads on the oil pump are weaker than the bleed nut and can shear, youll have to replace it with a 1/8 tapered nut wraped with white PTFE plumbers tape, it goes in further to good treads and reseales.
Or often its a leak from the hydrolic piston on the right side of the burner, needs a "Riello" washer replaced.

snoman

Thanks all. It was indeed the washer. All sorted now.

alexierm

Hi all

I know it's been 5 years since a last reply but I'm having the exact problem...I went away for a break for a few days and I usually leave the timer on for an hours heating in the morning and the evening but when I came home the tank was empty. I had it filled but when I came to turn it on, it didn't ignite.

I tried re-set a couple more times and then it did come on but only say for an hour before stopping again. At this point me and my Chihuahua were huddled in a duvet trying to keep warm on a cold night so when the Oil guy came the next day we were delighted when he bled it and it came on...

Anyway I left it on most of today (say 4 hours) and then again it went off...at this point I've tried to press reset but it keeps clicking seconds after to red again.

For ease I've taken a piccie of where I think the bleed nut is, is this what I should do or are there any other ideas. The house was built in 1990 so the burner/boiler is that age. Its a Reillo Firebird c26/90K if that makes any sense.

Many thanks
Alex

New Home

It could be something else entirely, but have you checked your tank again to make sure your oil hasn't been stolen? Unfortunately that's always a possibility...

alexierm

I've just checked and the little ball is ok on the tank. I did notice though that I'm sure the red button use to flash red, now its a steady red ...does that mean anything?

Mrs Quille

Thank you you little budgie! Picture helped a lot!

QUOTE=EoC;55503768]Hello,
I just had this issue and solved it. I'm not savvy at all about these things but I spoke to a guy at Firebird and he helped me out.

Firstly just to clarify for us dunces (me included).
The Super Q 90/120 is made by Firebird but the burner is made by a company called Riello. My model is G5X so I'm talking about that one.

Please see attached file of what I did.

I hope this helps other..

Note: Don't mess with the Black screw. The allen key does nothing. If when you open the gold/silver screw nothing comes out you might have to disconnect the pipe and do some sucking...


Regards EoC[/QUOTE]

RevBlueJeans

Eight years later and this thread is still relevant! Thanks revbluejeans.

Summer is Coming

Thread still relevant for me also but unfortunately after loosening (and removing) the allen key mentioned by JamesM in post #13 the air or oil did not bubble out. I tried this when the burner was off and also while the burner was trying to start up (before going into lockout).

I was careful not to adjust the screw that he mentioned not to touch.

I have tried to loosen the gold nut but it seems locked tight and due to the burner being installed down low in a corner it is very difficult to get any proper grip with a spanner.
Considering the allen key did nothing I'm wondering if this would be of any benefit anyway even if I do get it loose.

Any other suggestions as to how to get it going again?