Heating Control: Analogue to Electronic

sapper

Hi - my heating system is controlled by an Flash Immermat timer, which packed it in yesterday (switch came off). I thought it would be a good opportunity to replace it with an electronic version with a boost button/7 day timer etc. Got an Invensys/Drayton Tempus 1 controller in B&Q today

I thought I would be able to wire it using like for like, but it's not so straightfoward - can anyone out there help me out? How do I wire the new controller ( wiring diagram attached) from the old controller (wiring diagram also attached).

Or do I have the wrong type of controller?

DublinDilbert

That's fairly straight forward to hook up... i'll describe below but if you don't feel comfortable get a sparks or someone who is comfortable to hook it up for you... Also all the usual stuff about knocking off the power and making sure its off...


With your old timer both the live and the neutral passed "thru" it...


1) With your new time connect both the incoming neutral and the outgoing neutral to the neutral terminal marked N. Wrap both the wires together and then clamp the screw down on them.

2) Now Connect the incoming live to the terminal marked L

3) Make sure the link is in place between L and terminal 1. This link should usually come with the timer...

4) Connect the live feed to your heating system to terminal 3

I've drawn the wires onto your document for the new timer...

sapper

Great - thanks a million Dilbert....I was linking the neutral from the heating system to the "off" terminal. I'll give it a shot once the wife has finished the dinner:D

luap_42

Hello,

Can someone advise re: the same type of situation, but from a Flash Immermat timeswitch to a Horstman ChannelPlus H17XL Series 2 timeswitch.

They are both single channel timeswitches controlling both hot water and central heating via a Firebird Hideaway 90.

I've attached the diagrams of both.

Thanks if anyone can help.

DublinDilbert

luap_42 wrote: »

Hello,

Can someone advise re: the same type of situation, but from a Flash Immermat timeswitch to a Horstman ChannelPlus H17XL Series 2 timeswitch.

They are both single channel timeswitches controlling both hot water and central heating via a Firebird Hideaway 90.

I've attached the diagrams of both.

Thanks if anyone can help.

Assuming you have no room stat, and want a drop in replacement for the Flash timer, i've attached a drawing of how to wire it up.

Disclaimer:- All the usual precautions should be taken and if you don't feel comfortable get someone who is....

luap_42

DublinDilbert wrote: »

Assuming you have no room stat, and want a drop in replacement for the Flash timer, i've attached a drawing of how to wire it up.

Disclaimer:- All the usual precautions should be taken and if you don't feel comfortable get someone who is....

Good guess about the drop in replacement and room stat. Perfect.

Mercy bucket messyu...

DublinDilbert

luap_42 wrote: »

Good guess about the drop in replacement and room stat. Perfect.

Mercy bucket messyu...

No Probs....

Barry087

DublinDilbert wrote: »

That's fairly straight forward to hook up... i'll describe below but if you don't feel comfortable get a sparks or someone who is comfortable to hook it up for you... Also all the usual stuff about knocking off the power and making sure its off...


With your old timer both the live and the neutral passed "thru" it...


1) With your new time connect both the incoming neutral and the outgoing neutral to the neutral terminal marked N. Wrap both the wires together and then clamp the screw down on them.

2) Now Connect the incoming live to the terminal marked L

3) Make sure the link is in place between L and terminal 1. This link should usually come with the timer...

4) Connect the live feed to your heating system to terminal 3

I've drawn the wires onto your document for the new timer...

I have the Flash Immermat timer also but have 6 wires in total (not earth).
Have the 2 leads coming from the mains, the. 2 brown joined together and 2 blue joined together coming out.
Any ideas what these would be and how to determine which brown goes with which blue.

Thanks

meercat

hi barry
welcome to boards
this is an old thread as you may not have noticed the date(being new)
any chance af a picture of connections if you havnt already disconnected them

perhaps you might post a new thread(left hand side of page,little bit down(go to electrical section)

jdesbt

hi barry
if your pump isnot beside your burner one set might be for pump and one set for burner.


are you sure the 2 sets joined are not the incomeing supply

Barry087

M

jdesbt wrote: »

hi barry
if your pump isnot beside your burner one set might be for pump and one set for burner.


are you sure the 2 sets joined are not the incomeing supply

Yes. There is one set of wires coming in and 2 sets going out.

As its a rented accomadation, I think I'll jut leave it.

Thanks for your help guys

WetDaddy

Looks like I'm in a similar boat, would really appreciate if anyone had suggestions on this!

I've Immermat Flash. Apart from it being the bane of my life, the switch is now dodgy so it definitely needs to be shot into space. I'd love to get a Heatmiser PRT-TS (http://www.heatmiser.co.uk/web/index.php/wifi-thermostats) but it mentions something about having either 3 or 4 wires (which affects which model you choose).

It looks like my Immermat has the 2 x 2 setup as detailed above (mains in, mains out, appliance in, applicance out). Does this count as 4 wires? Or only 2? I don't believe I've a thermostat in the house other than on the boilers (and rads). Any experienced folks able to advise?

Thanks in advance!

quinney123

Hi Guys

I know that this post is extremely old so i thought I'd repost as I'm having a similar problem to the above.

I have a flash immermat and the on/off switch has broken off so i cant turn the heating on and off.

I have a couple of questions,

Can i turn the heating another way while the switch is broken?

Can i replace the switch and not the whole device?

If i replace the device does it need to be the same one or can i replace with a more modern version?

Is it easy enough to install one of these devices or do i need a professional to do it?

Your help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Adam

crasy dash

quinney123 wrote: »

Hi Guys

I know that this post is extremely old so i thought I'd repost as I'm having a similar problem to the above.

I have a flash immermat and the on/off switch has broken off so i cant turn the heating on and off.

I have a couple of questions,

Can i turn the heating another way while the switch is broken?

Can i replace the switch and not the whole device?

If i replace the device does it need to be the same one or can i replace with a more modern version?

Is it easy enough to install one of these devices or do i need a professional to do it?

Your help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Adam

Hi there hopefully one of the mods moves and starts a new thread for you instead of posting it in this one.

You should be able to isolate the supply to the timer can you see any switches near the unit?
If not you will have to locate which breaker the heating is fed from and isolate that to switch off the heating for the mean time.

More than likely very easy for a electrician to replace the whole unit
you might be better getting a registered electrician to carry out the work for you.