Copper pipe - reducing "T" Junction

Citizen_Erased

Hey all , I'm just looking for ideas about a work around with a project I'm doing with a bit of copper pipe . Basically I have a 2" pipe and need to junction off a 1/2" pipe at right angles . I found a piece for this online but it was £103 ... enough said . I was wondering does anyone have any budget ideas on how to achieve this apart from the simple drilling a 1/2" hole in the pipe and braising on the pipe ? Something more precise and cleaner and all together more fool proof would be nice.

Thanks in advance

2 stroke

Visit a plumbing supplier.

xanthe

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/copper.html#reducingcoupling

priced in dollars and perhaps a T after it would do?
Just a thought.

Citizen_Erased

2 stroke wrote: »

Visit a plumbing supplier.

Thank you , the thought had never occured to me.

Anyway, ta for the link Xanthe but I think I have done a bad job of explaining what I want to do , here's a quick diagram

Basically the 2" pipe is just continuous with the 1/2" pipe is simply a "take-off" (sorry , havent a clue about the jargon). So to use a reducer then a T then another reducer to bring it right up to 2" again would cause a constriction . I have looked at a 2" T and then reducing the "take off" but this would be rather bulky for the application and all together not much cheaper than the originally mentioned part. (btw Im using the pre soldered type parts in this project)

EDIT// heres the part I want to work around http://www.yorkshirefittings.co.uk/prod/taps_mixers.aspx?ID=121242&FolderID=237&button=General%20Information the 54x54x15 Basically coming to £100

xanthe

awh yes, now I get you!!!
I had to do a similar thing when putting in a bathroom recently.
I couldnt find a 2"-1/2" T. but went into a plumbers supply shop and purchased 2" to 1" T and then bought a reducer to bring it down to 1/2". It only cost me a little over 30 euro or so.
I find the plumbers hardware very helpfull in getting what I need.


oops you edit came up after my post....apologies :-)

xanthe

my job was a standard thread and nut job... sorry I couldnt be of any help

Citizen_Erased

Cheers for the idea , i think you set me onto something for sure
My local supply place isn't very great , they don't have any reducer 2" Tees at all,just equalls , I didn't even want to ask about them ordering one in because that would be giving them a blank cheque. And if I was to by a 2" Tee and reduce that they only had steps in reducers so I would have needed 3 of them to get down to 1/2" I have seen the part that I wanted in American sites however that would leave me looking at weeks of postage and god knows what other complications .
I guess my main question I meant to get at was would it be possible to drill a whole in the 2" and then with some "creative" braising attached the 1/2" , it needs to be a 100% seel tho.

xanthe

If its cold water, you can buy self tapping kits in half inch. It screws into the pipe and creates a hole that is sealed with a valve for your half inch pipe to connect to. Then you can attach what you want. They can be bought in Woodies or any hardware of that sort.
Not too sure about those units being used on hot water pipes to be honest.

Citizen_Erased

Up to boiling hot water , I'm not making this very easy at all am I ?

2 stroke

Citizen_Erased wrote: »

I guess my main question I meant to get at was would it be possible to drill a whole in the 2" and then with some "creative" braising attached the 1/2" , it needs to be a 100% seel tho.

I'd have never thought of doing that. Braising usualy works best for steak & mushrooms. If it was a good way of connecting copper pipe I guess nobody would buy pipe fittings.
Visit a proper plumbing store.

GreeBo

1) Do u need to use soldered parts for this?
2) How much room do you have to play with, can u continue the 2 inch spur until you have some space to reduce it?

DublinDilbert

I'd give it a go at soldering the 2 together....

What i would do is drill the 1/2'' hole in the 2'' pipe as you suggest.

I'd also cut a 1/2'' solder ring straight joiner piece, so it will act as a sleeve around the 1/2 pipe where the join is. This sleeve will give it extra strength... I'd file this down so it matches the profile of the 2'' pipe... This should also help not too much solder go into the main pipe during the process...

Once solder gets on all the matting surfaces it will be rock solid, also if you can brace/clamp the 1/2'' pipe during the process so it will be held in place while the joint cools down...

(BTW i hope its not drinking water if your planning on soldering, going by the 2'' pipe i wouldn't say it is.... )

DublinDilbert

Or what you could do is Solder on a stub of 3/4'' pipe to the 2'' pipe... you'll be able to get solder down the inside and outside of the joint... when your happy you've got good solder joint... drill the main pipe with a 1/2'' hole saw... then pop on a 3/4'' -> 1/2'' compression fitting to get you the 1/2'' pipe....

This gives you the advantage of seeing how well you can solder to the main pipe... I'm not sure if you'll have issues getting the 2'' pipe hot enough....

Citizen_Erased

GreeBo wrote: »

1) Do u need to use soldered parts for this?
2) How much room do you have to play with, can u continue the 2 inch spur until you have some space to reduce it?

1)I do not technically need to use solder fitting but aesthetics is a factor in this project and brass style nuts on screw fit pieces wouldn't fit in.

2)Unfortunately I do not have enough room to make elaborate systems of reducers , it is a path I have looked at and I simply don't have the space.

@DublinDilbert
Thanks for answering the question because it is really something I would like to try . I think I will follow your advice about using the straight coupling for extra strength and see how I get on . I have a propane torch to do the job which should hopefully provide enough heat though I've never braised with it on this scale. If it fails I have plenty of pipe for a second attempt and will try the second method you explained. Ta for the help , much appreciated

One last thing , contamination is an issue in some respects but not directly , I was hoping using silver based solder would get around this ?

John mac

use silver solder if you are going to butt the 3/4 onto the 2". (brazing would be the right job) if you have access to oxy-acetylene gear.
ROTHENBERGER have an extractor tool that you can create a 1/2" branch in 2" pipe. Which would be the best job.
( not sure they are still around i last used one in 1986!)
you could ask a tool hire place.

Citizen_Erased

John mac wrote: »

use silver solder if you are going to butt the 3/4 onto the 2". (brazing would be the right job) if you have access to oxy-acetylene gear.
ROTHENBERGER have an extractor tool that you can create a 1/2" branch in 2" pipe.
( not sure they are still around i last used one in 1986!)
you could ask a tool hire place.

They still do they alright , they are in their current catalogue , thanks for the heads up , that may be just thing thing to crack this

311

Kupro tectic would be the best and strongest for doing this.You use the rods when you've butted the pipe with the rotenberg die
Brasing in position will be very messy.

John mac

Im a Moderator now!!
:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
guess it must be April the first!

BaZmO*

A 2" x ½" Brazing Reducing Tee is about €20 from the likes of Arcon or Hevac (Plumbing Suppliers based in Dublin)

Although the standard way to do something like that on site is to just do a branch braze, but unless you're skilled at brazing the Tee would be the neater way to do it.