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watercooling for gpu's

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    #2
    Cassiel
    Closed Accounts Posts: 346 ✭✭Cassiel


    If you've no fans on the rad I think it won't cope, seeing as its rated to 125w passive.

    Research the mofset blocks though. I think there are specific models for the striker as its not a reference nvidia board.
    Got 2 8800GT EK blocks from Specialtech myself this week - yay for the €/£ exhange rate :). They are HEAVY. Sent the wrong fittings so have to wait another week before Ifit them.


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    #3
    nibble
    Registered Users Posts: 514 ✭✭✭nibble


    You know that rad is aluminium, right Royal? Alu + copper = corrosion, I'd replace the rad with a good copper one asap if you can, maybe do two loops with a couple of thermochill's. For all that stuff you really will need dual loop anyway, say one for the gfx and mosfets and another for CPU/NB, don't wc the southbridge it's a complete waste really.

    I'd go for EK blocks on the GPU's and if you really want to do the FET's then go with EK too, you need these blocks for your board http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=3577&cat=554&page=1

    And if you're after bang for buck like you say it definately won't be found it in watercooling..


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    #4
    RoyalMarine
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5,824 ✭✭✭RoyalMarine


    yeah that rad isnt gonna be used anymore. too heavy plus reviews put alu way down the list.

    southbridge can stay as it is so :) gman urself.

    thnx for the link for the blocks. wasnt sure which one to get.

    when i said bang for buck, i dont wanna go out spending a fortune of 600 yoyo's on wc gear. :D
    i have a loop with a 2 120mm rad for the cpu already. so the gfx will be on its own loop.
    but i wanted to add the fet's and NB to the cpu loop.


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    #5
    requiem1
    Registered Users Posts: 611 ✭✭✭requiem1


    i like the choise on barbs but I have that tubing and wasn't a big fan(still have around three metres of it left) and would really advise tygon or danger dens's stuff, make sure you get the right clamps or just get 7/16" ID tubing if you aren't bothered with clamps. A dual thermochill would probably do the gpu's and you could throw the mosfets and NB on your current loop. if you are mixing aluminium and copper then I believe antifreeze fixes that.:D


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    #6
    nibble
    Registered Users Posts: 514 ✭✭✭nibble


    I'd get masterkleer tubing, really pointless paying 4x the price for tygon. I mean what exactly is it going to do better? Masterkleer is just as clear and PVC is supposed to be better if you have UV dye because the tygon is apparently somewhat UV resistant.
    Corrosion inhibitors only slow down the process, just avoid aluminium altogether, it's evil I tells ya... :D


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    #7
    RoyalMarine
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5,824 ✭✭✭RoyalMarine


    thanks for the info lads. i think im gonna get masterkleer due to the price/performance. as nibble stated, no point paying so much more for something thats only slightly better.

    antifreeze is a must. ill get some uv stuff to help with color :)
    pt nuke and so on.
    ive got some decent clamps already for the tubing. wormdrive's will do nicely :)


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