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Anyone know anything about this bike?

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  • 11-04-2008 3:04pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,151 ✭✭✭


    This bike's been in my shed for as long as I can remember. It's a Dawes Milk Race. It's not in great nick. I just pulled it out there today, tidied it up a bit and stuck a saddle on it.

    pic

    The internet has told me nothing really apart from this page here http://www.freshtripe.co.uk/Freshtripe/Bikes/19E59D30-86A7-457C-9A8E-52995A5A842F.html, so my question is, does anyone know anything about them? Is it worth spending a few bob to restore? I'm half thinking of going single speed with it, like the converted one at the link.

    Thanks in advance
    Sean


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,883 ✭✭✭Ghost Rider


    Judging by the badge on the down tube, I'd say it's a Reynolds steel frame. And judging by the dropouts, I'd say it'd be a good candidate for a singlespeed conversion.

    You might want to get the frame powder coated to give it a nice finish before the conversion. Or you might just want to leave it scuzzy and (relatively) thief-proof...
    Sean_K wrote: »
    This bike's been in my shed for as long as I can remember. It's a Dawes Milk Race. It's not in great nick. I just pulled it out there today, tidied it up a bit and stuck a saddle on it.

    pic

    The internet has told me nothing really apart from this page here http://www.freshtripe.co.uk/Freshtripe/Bikes/19E59D30-86A7-457C-9A8E-52995A5A842F.html, so my question is, does anyone know anything about them? Is it worth spending a few bob to restore? I'm half thinking of going single speed with it, like the converted one at the link.

    Thanks in advance
    Sean


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,833 ✭✭✭niceonetom


    what's the number on the reynolds badge on the downtube? 520? if so then the frames nothing special as 520 is pretty low-grade chromoly compared with 531 853 etc. it'll be plenty strong - just not very light.

    that said if the frame fits well and feels nice you could fixed gear convert it for very little. in fact all you'd deffo need to buy would be a rear wheel...

    i love the colour scheme btw. if i found that bike in my shed, i'd fix it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,151 ✭✭✭Thomas_S_Hunterson


    You might want to get the frame powder coated to give it a nice finish before the conversion. Or you might just want to leave it scuzzy and (relatively) thief-proof...
    niceonetom wrote:
    i love the colour scheme btw. if i found that bike in my shed, i'd fix it.
    I have to say, I'm kinda falling in love with the current colour scheme myself as well. What would be the bast way to touch it up without a full re-paint?

    /edit: or alternatively, would it be possible to pick up replacement rainbow stickers like what's on it? The i could just get it fully re-done.

    One thing it needs is white bar-tape and a white saddle:D
    niceonetom wrote:
    what's the number on the reynolds badge on the downtube? 520? if so then the frames nothing special as 520 is pretty low-grade chromoly compared with 531 853 etc. it'll be plenty strong - just not very light.
    The number is 500 if that means anything to you. A quick google says it's nothing special.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,833 ✭✭✭niceonetom


    Sean_K wrote: »
    One thing it needs is white bar-tape and a white saddle:D

    bing! i like your thinking.
    Sean_K wrote: »
    The number is 500 if that means anything to you. A quick google says it's nothing special.

    yes 500 is nothing special. budget chromoly material and the tubing isn't double-butted (ie the wall thickness is constant along the length). crueler people might call this a gas pipe frame :(.

    but it's pretty, and if your not a weight obsessive there's no good reason why this couldn't be a decent and very durable fixie/singlespeed.

    http://www.equusbicycle.com/bike/reynolds/Reynolds-tubing-sizes.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,151 ✭✭✭Thomas_S_Hunterson


    Ok, so after a bit of thought, I've decided to do a conversion to a flip flop.

    Given that my current knowledge of bike really just extends to the absolute minimal maintanance I have afforded to a 10 year old run-around which gets me in and out of college, I'd appreciate any advice you could give me.

    First order of business, a nice white repaint/powdercoat (and i'll hope for the best with regard to being able to pick up a set of similar stickers). Could you recommend anyone that'd do it for me (that wont break the bank)? And would I need to remove the paint that's currently on it beforehand (sounds pretty painstaking)?

    Secondly the flip-flop rear wheel. Any recommendations? Something durable and not very expensive would be ideal.

    Also, the crankset. would I be right in thinking I can just stick with the one that's currently on the bike? It's got two "sprockets" on it. I'll be removing the derailleurs and gear assembly, would that cause any problems in chain alignment?

    Thanks again
    Sean


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  • Registered Users Posts: 38 frenchie091


    Secondly the flip-flop rear wheel. Any recommendations? Something durable and not very expensive would be ideal.
    If the college you refer to is UCD, you could try the bike shop there. They seem to be able to get wheels built at decent prices. For my fixed-gear conversion I got a wheelset with Mavic CXP-22 rims (entry level Mavics), and track front and rear (flip-flop) hubs with sealed bearings, for around €160. Pretty good wheels without being super expensive.
    (The picture was taken before I got the front wheel).

    bike1.jpg

    You could also get a flip-flip rear wheel here. Make sure the hub spacing matches your frame's rear dropout spacing.
    Also, the crankset. would I be right in thinking I can just stick with the one that's currently on the bike? It's got two "sprockets" on it. I'll be removing the derailleurs and gear assembly, would that cause any problems in chain alignment?

    You could. Looks better when there's only one chainring, you could remove the inner one and use something fairly big at the back. As for alignment, it looks like the big chainring is moulded in, so you don't have the option of moving it to the inside of the crank spider. Ideally, you would match the front chainline to the chainline of your hub. Sheldon Brown explains how to measure chainline here. Sometimes you can find out what chainline a hub will give you. The QuandoTX flip-flop I got in UCD gives about 39mm, but that's with a fixed sprocket, the wider shoulder on a single-speed freewheel would increase that a bit. You could always just hope for the best, like I did, and hope your chainline works out ok (which mine eventually did).

    Sheldon Brown has plenty of conversion advice, if you haven't already read it: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,450 ✭✭✭Harrybelafonte


    What's the selection and pricing in the UCD shop like?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 546 ✭✭✭quietobserver


    one of the things i used to do restoring frames was get nail varnish of similar colour or the touch up markers from various car dealers,allows u to touch up without drastic stripping of parts.

    might be a good idea if u do strip the frame to plug all the ends and pour a drop of oil down the tubing and let it roll through all the frame, prevents any corrosion from the inside out.

    if i was you id enjoy the project, make sure to show a pic of the finished product


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,151 ✭✭✭Thomas_S_Hunterson


    one of the things i used to do restoring frames was get nail varnish of similar colour or the touch up markers from various car dealers,allows u to touch up without drastic stripping of parts.

    might be a good idea if u do strip the frame to plug all the ends and pour a drop of oil down the tubing and let it roll through all the frame, prevents any corrosion from the inside out.

    if i was you id enjoy the project, make sure to show a pic of the finished product
    Will do. Thanks for the advice. It'll probably be a while before I get to work on it however, with exams coming up in the near future, and i'll need to get some cash together. I'll aim to have it done early June, I think that's realistic...Can't wait:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,989 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    That is one nice conversion frenchie.

    Note with the bike shop in UCD- it used to be absolutely fantastic but there are reports that it recently changed ownership, the two Robs are no longer there, and that things are somewhat different now. I have not been there since these reports but that shop _was_ the two Robs. I am happy to be corrected on this (will have to pop my head in but have been going to Joe Daly's in Dundrum recently where Dave is great and shop is nearby work.)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,154 ✭✭✭Quigs Snr


    I remember the Dawes Milk Race well. Late 80's vintage. As I recall it, they were a relativley budget affair (around the 300 punts mark). Quite popular in my hometown because we had a dealer there. It was a competitior for some of the higher end Raleighs such as the Record Sprint and Criterium. Happy times... drifts off down memory lane......


  • Registered Users Posts: 38 frenchie091


    Thanks blorg!

    You're right, the two Robs are no longer working in the UCD bike shop. Must say they helped me out a lot building my own bike. Only been back there since to get a front wheel to match the back one, cos the wheel builder they use is good seems pretty cheap. You'd want to know exactly what you're looking for going in there though, the new lads working there don't seem to know nearly as much. (Went in looking to order a track/fixed-gear sprocket and found myself being asked a variety of irrelevant questions, including "do you have a bike?"!)
    What's the selection and pricing in the UCD shop like?
    Selection for anything other than basics is non-existent. However they can order nearly anything in, at decent prices in my experience. The boss, John, is probably the man to ask for if you want to order stuff.

    Would be nice to see how that bike turns out Sean, with that colour scheme it could be a beaut. By the way, mine is an old Raleigh Record frame with 501 tubing, which is more or less the same as 500 from what I can gather (both are CrMo). Seems to be entry level light-weight, perfect for what you have in mind anyway.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,151 ✭✭✭Thomas_S_Hunterson


    Well took her out to greystones yesterday for a proper cycle and it's most definitely a keeper. Can't believe I stuck with the crappy old MTB for so long. It was a joy to ride.

    I'll hopefully go ahead with powder-coating as soon as possible. I read some of the other threads on the topic and it seems http://www.qualitypowdercoating.ie/ are the people to talk to.

    With regard to taping up stuff like the hole for the bottom bracket and stuff, what should I use? It's mentioned in one of the threads that they'll sandblast the frame, so I presume i'll need something that will stand up to the sandblasting, so I don't think masking tape would cut it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 99 ✭✭erizo


    I rang the company and they asked me 120euro for painting the bike. I'm pretty interested in painting it, but i think it is a bit too expensive.
    Maybe getting few frames into the factory, we would get a deal.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,883 ✭✭✭Ghost Rider


    Their prices have gone up 100% since last August?? That's mental.
    erizo wrote: »
    I rang the company and they asked me 120euro for painting the bike. I'm pretty interested in painting it, but i think it is a bit too expensive.
    Maybe getting few frames into the factory, we would get a deal.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭gman2k


    I had a Dawes back in the day (1987) exact same as this bike except not a milk race.
    Had great fun with it as it was my first 'real' racer.... everyone back then who cycled was a Stephen Roche or Sean Kelly.... I only kept the bike for 8 months or so and traded it in for a Peugout Triathalon 501 model with rubbishy parts also.
    A buddy had the same Peugout frame with all 105 parts and it was a nice machine for the time!
    Whilst it is an old bike, I don't think it's worth spending money on getting it restored (as it is fairly rubbish)- shock horror!!! For the same money spent doing it up, you would buy a recent enough modern bike!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,151 ✭✭✭Thomas_S_Hunterson


    Just finished her up today, the wheel were finally build after a couple of weeks delay waiting for the rims, chainline was prety much spot on which was lucky:
    pic

    Only problem is that the brakes aren't long enough, they don't go down all the way to the rim and only reach the tyre which means I can't use them, but took it out for a spin today and it was a joy to ride and I had no trouble just using my pedals to brake.

    As you can see it's painted in patchy 'theft-deterrent' matt white but tbh I couldn't care less, it's a nice ride and I can see at least one of the brakes coming off in the near future. Gears are 52:18 if anyone's interested.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,234 ✭✭✭flickerx


    Sean_K wrote: »
    J
    Only problem is that the brakes aren't long enough, they don't go down all the way to the rim and only reach the tyre which means I can't use them, but took it out for a spin today and it was a joy to ride and I had no trouble just using my pedals to brake.

    I rode with no brakes for a year but you do need one, really.
    Someone else posted up recently about cheap long reach calipers (what you need, afai can see) but I cant find the damn thread or link...


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,234 ✭✭✭flickerx


    p.s. looks good and I think 52/18 is a good gear ratio too!


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,198 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    Its a shame you didn't keep the retro paint job really.

    Reminded me of an early 90's Mapei Jersey. Ah the times I spent shouting for Johan Museeuw. No idea why I liked him so much, but I did.

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,151 ✭✭✭Thomas_S_Hunterson


    Its a shame you didn't keep the retro paint job really.

    Reminded me of an early 90's Mapei Jersey. Ah the times I spent shouting for Johan Museeuw. No idea why I liked him so much, but I did.

    I woulda loved to, but it was a bit too scuzzy really, there was patches where small bits of surface rust were beginning to form. I really did like it myself as well.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,234 ✭✭✭flickerx


    http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=bcdc808

    long reach front caliper for 8 sterling


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,151 ✭✭✭Thomas_S_Hunterson


    flickerx wrote: »
    http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=bcdc808

    long reach front caliper for 8 sterling

    Fantastic, thanks a mil:)

    No more 105s:(


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 21,198 Mod ✭✭✭✭Brian?


    Sean_K wrote: »
    I woulda loved to, but it was a bit too scuzzy really, there was patches where small bits of surface rust were beginning to form. I really did like it myself as well.


    Ah well thats a pity, rust=bike cancer.

    they/them/theirs


    And so on, and so on …. - Slavoj Žižek




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,992 ✭✭✭DavyD_83


    Where'd you get the wheel built in the end, and how much did it set you back, if you don't mind sharing?
    Want to do the same with a frame i have, and looks like there's no chance of avoiding paying for wheels, so trying to find em cheap as possible.

    Sean_K wrote: »
    Just finished her up today, the wheel were finally build after a couple of weeks delay waiting for the rims, chainline was prety much spot on which was lucky:
    pic

    QUOTE]


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,151 ✭✭✭Thomas_S_Hunterson


    DavyD_83 wrote: »
    Where'd you get the wheel built in the end, and how much did it set you back, if you don't mind sharing?
    Want to do the same with a frame i have, and looks like there's no chance of avoiding paying for wheels, so trying to find em cheap as possible.
    I got Kieran in square wheel cycles in temple bar to do them, he's dead on and did a good job on them, although it took a while as there was delays getting rims and stuff.

    I ordered the hubs myself, they're Harris Cyclery branded tracks, $45 for rear and $30 for front.

    Rims are Mavics, a CXP 22 on the rear and a CXP 33 in front (I ordered 22s but the supplier sent out a mismatched pair, I kept the 33 and got it for the price of the 22)

    For rims, spokes and the build, it was €130, so all in all about €200 for the wheels, and 60 or so for a pair of gatorskins. It was a bit more than I planned to spend, but what can you do. Everything just adds up


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭fish-head


    Nice looking conversion! I'll keep an eye out for it in UCD.


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