I got the truggy - Cannot start it

workaccount

I have the truggy now and I cannot start it.
I have the transmitter and receiver on.

The glow plug and igniter work as I have tested them and the plug turns red.

When I pump the fuel I can see it go into the carb and then I heat the plug and try the pullstart.

I have probably flooded it more than once but I clear the flood and try again with no joy. What else could be wrong? I have tried heating the engine right up with a hairdryer.

T-Maxx

New engines are always tricky to start up the first few times. Persevere.:p

You might want to check the needles and carb linkags also. Remember the 4 ingredients: fuel, air, glowplug, compression.

Good luck.

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

Try opening the throttel a bit more, maybe up to half way, but keep an eye out for flooding.
The fuel air mix may be too rich, they are set very rich at the factory, this is why opening the throttel helps with starting, if you can get it going and then it cut out after a second try leaning the mixture with the HSN a little.

workaccount

I've got it started a few times now but it cuts out straight away when I take out the glow igniter. It will run fine with the igniter in.

The above has actually stopped now but it cuts out after a minute and fuel seems to be coming up from around the glow plug.

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

I would try to tighten the glow plug a little, this was happening to me too with my new buggy.
Did you try lean out the mixture a little?

workaccount

FuzzyWuzzyWazza wrote: »

I would try to tighten the glow plug a little, this was happening to me too with my new buggy.
Did you try lean out the mixture a little?

Yes thanks for the quick replies lads. It's now running on it's first tank for the last 10mins or so.

Is ti just four tanks through it and then I can drive the b***lks out of it or do I need to put more through.

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

Pretty much, you might want to keep an eye on how the engine is running for the first 10 tanks.

RC car fanatic

ive got my buggy started but when i take the ignitor out it stops...what to do??????????

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

check you needle settings. did you change any of the settings from 'stock'?
try opening the throttle a little, do this with the trim setting on your transmitter.

workaccount

Ok so I had a few spins in it today then and twas mighty craic.

I think I only have two problems now....the first is the servo setting as when I brake it usually cuts out the engine. I've got it abit better now but found it difficult to get the balance between throttle and brake.

My technique now for getting the engine started everytime from cold is take the plug out turn upside down and give it a good few turns. Turn it back around and put the plug back in....get fuel to the carb then 15 pulls and then glowplug igniter and a few pulls. Pain in the hole tbh but sure I suppose nitro is just that, isn't it?

Another issue that I have is the front wheels are constanly ballooning when I put the power down. I am driving in the grass.

Oh and this thing is feckin' thirsty. Would be handy to put a bigger fuel tank in?
There seems to be plenty of space.

Do I need to get some sort of oil aswell now for when I am finished driving it? What other things do I need to maintain it?

RC car fanatic

FuzzyWuzzyWazza wrote: »

check you needle settings. did you change any of the settings from 'stock'?
try opening the throttle a little, do this with the trim setting on your transmitter.

I put it back to stock..4 turns anti clockwise from closed and my other needles are grand,my trims are set grand aswell..could it be that the ignitor isnt charged enough.????

Plug

RC car fanatic wrote: »

ive got my buggy started but when i take the ignitor out it stops...what to do??????????

Thats just a glow plug I'd say.

mugenextreme

workaccount wrote: »

I think I only have two problems now....the first is the servo setting as when I brake it usually cuts out the engine. I've got it abit better now but found it difficult to get the balance between throttle and brake.

If the engine is cutting out when you are hitting the Brake chances are you may have the idle to low. So when you brake the carb is closing to much and starving the engine of air , try screwing the idle in and widening the gap.

workaccount wrote: »

My technique now for getting the engine started everytime from cold is take the plug out turn upside down and give it a good few turns. Turn it back around and put the plug back in....get fuel to the carb then 15 pulls and then glowplug igniter and a few pulls. Pain in the hole tbh but sure I suppose nitro is just that, isn't it?

If there is no primer on the tank and using the pull start doesnt pull fuel into the engine , Place your finger over the exhaust and using the pull start turn the engine over a few times this should work without removing the plug and turning it upside down

workaccount wrote: »

Another issue that I have is the front wheels are constanly ballooning when I put the power down. I am driving in the grass.

Make sure they are glued but if they are from a rtr chances are you will have to live with this. problem

workaccount wrote: »

Oh and this thing is feckin' thirsty. Would be handy to put a bigger fuel tank in?

5 - 8 mins is average for a tank on most cars with the exception of some monster trucks which have large tanks

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

Oh and this thing is feckin' thirsty.

Thats the joys of the .32 engine
And
That is the cause of your front tyres ballooning.. "Too Much Power...!!"

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

Thats the joys of the .32 engine
And
That is the cause of your front tyres ballooning.. "Too Much Power...!!"

Would I be wrong in thinking you could get more power from a smaller higher performance engine?

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

Would I be wrong in thinking you could get more power from a smaller higher performance engine?

Depends on track type etc.
Some rev higher giving higher top speed
Some have more torque for shorter tracks.

AFAIK, The bigger = more torque
BUT
You can get a .21 with different amounts of ports in them giving the same result.:cool:

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

Depends on track type etc.
Some rev higher giving higher top speed
Some have more torque for shorter tracks.

AFAIK, The bigger = more torque
BUT
You can get a .21 with different amounts of ports in them giving the same result.:cool:

So basically I'm getting rubbish economy when I could be getting the same power and speed as a .21 while using much less fuel?

T-Maxx

Vectra is right:

smaller displacement ===>>> higher rpm, less torque

higher displacement ===>>> higher torque, less rpm

Really depends on the track and your truck (small block trucks normally can't handle big block torque and you'll strip diffs and gearboxes, also the bigger engine might not physically fit.)

workaccount

T-Maxx wrote: »

Vectra is right:

smaller displacement ===>>> higher rpm, less torque

higher displacement ===>>> higher torque, less rpm

Really depends on the track and your truck (small block trucks normally can't handle big block torque and you'll strip diffs and gearboxes, also the bigger engine might not physically fit.)

I actually think the feckin' clutch might be gone in it already.

I had it out yesterday and I was nearly out of fuel was giving it thottle and the engine was revving really high but the it was not moving. I then lifted it off the ground and the wheels started spinning but when I put it back on the ground had no joy. I did not get the chance to test it again as it was my last drop of fuel.

tbh I was jamming open full throttle alot. I suppose you should be more gentle and always open the throttle slowly. I realised this afterwards and given that the engine has lots of torque I suppose is greatly going to increase the chances of broken clutches.

vectra

You shouldnt burn out the clutch that easy. Have oyu checked that the brakes are not binding ?

T-Maxx

Not sure exactly how your drivetrain looks, but it could be the clutch, slipper clutch, spur gear, clutch bell. Maybe the bearing on the clutch bell has gone south on you.

workaccount

T-Maxx wrote: »

Not sure exactly how your drivetrain looks, but it could be the clutch, slipper clutch, spur gear, clutch bell. Maybe the bearing on the clutch bell has gone south on you.

Yeah I'll just have to try it now again when I get fuel. I'll have to open it up then if it's not working out and take a look.

Coolwings: If your reading this answer your PM!

workaccount

Just regarding the fuel line. It got severed in half when I was using it last weekend as I think it was sitting on the exhaust.

I cut it in half and it still reaches the connector on the top of the exhaust fine. At the length it's at now there's no chance of it sitting on the exhaust again so I could like to leave it like this.

Would this affect the fuel system in anyway?

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

I don't think it will affect the fuel system, or at least I can't see how it would.

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

Depends on track type etc.
Some rev higher giving higher top speed
Some have more torque for shorter tracks.

AFAIK, The bigger = more torque
BUT
You can get a .21 with different amounts of ports in them giving the same result.:cool:

That just seems like a massive waste of nitro then. I mean, what do I need all that extra torque for - I'm not pulling a trailer.

If I could get the same results with a .21 would I not drastically reduce the amount of nitro required.

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

I don't think that you would see that much of a saving, more so when you consider the price of a new engine, false economy IMO.

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

That just seems like a massive waste of nitro then. I mean, what do I need all that extra torque for - I'm not pulling a trailer.

If I could get the same results with a .21 would I not drastically reduce the amount of nitro required.

I suppose I shouldnt have said "SAME RESULT"
Maybe Similar result would be better.
Why do you need all that torque?
well
short track
short straight (S)
Plenty of torque to pull you out of the corners and get up to speed quicker than the guy with the piddly .21

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

I suppose I shouldnt have said "SAME RESULT"
Maybe Similar result would be better.
Why do you need all that torque?
well
short track
short straight (S)
Plenty of torque to pull you out of the corners and get up to speed quicker than the guy with the piddly .21

eeeemmh :mad:

I still cannot get my head around torque vs. speed / high revs etc.


Ok so last week one of the front wheels hit a pole quite fast and it pushed the wishbone right out. I now have it back in but the bar
that connects the wishbone to the chassis is loose on the right side of the car compared to the side that was not damaged. I'd imagine when I am driving it that one side will be moving around alot more than the other.

Attached is a video anyway to try and explain further. The videos not great but it's my first.

http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll29/workaccount2/?action=view&current=Movie.flv

I hope you don't have to be a member to view this video. Let me know if you do and I will find somewhere else to host it.


EDIT: I've just noticed there that something behind the front bumper has broken off. Perhaps you can take a quick look at yours there vectra and let me know what's missing.

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

I've just noticed there that something behind the front bumper has broken off. Perhaps you can take a quick look at yours there vectra and let me know what's missing.

I will have a look tomorow. I see what you mean about the wishbone sliding back and forth. I would assume it is only some clips missing for adjustment. I will check tomorow for you
Dont panic :pac:

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

I will have a look tomorow. I see what you mean about the wishbone sliding back and forth. I would assume it is only some clips missing for adjustment. I will check tomorow for you
Dont panic :pac:

Cool.

You might also tell me which one of these is actually 18AWG.




You can see clearly the cable not connected to the battery is marked 18AWG. However the battery cable has a tag on it that says 18AWG but is much thicker!

vectra

The ones on the cells look more like 14 or 12 awg.
The one disconnected is deffo 18awg I reckon