I got the truggy - Cannot start it

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

The ones on the cells look more like 14 or 12 awg.
The one disconnected is deffo 18awg I reckon

Oh so the lower the number the thicker.

Did you get a chance to check the wishbone and bumper on your hong nor?

workaccount

Hey,
Dya reckon you will be able to check that on your hong nor vectra?

I'm more or less parked up I think until I get it sorted. It would be handy if you could check otherwise I might just give the modelsport forums a go.

Thanks.

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

Hey,
Dya reckon you will be able to check that on your hong nor vectra?

I'm more or less parked up I think until I get it sorted. It would be handy if you could check otherwise I might just give the modelsport forums a go.

Thanks.

Oops.
Completely slipped my mind
I will give a look tomorow.
Sorry about that

vectra

OK,

Had a quick look but really couldnt see what your problem could be.
The best thing I could suggest is to make an exact comparison to the other side maybe

I took a few pics. They may not be great but have a look here >> CRT PICS << :cool:
Let me know how it goes

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

It sounds like you ar missing a spacer from the pin that acts as the hinge for the A-arm, just look at the arm on the other side, they should have the exact same setup.

workaccount

Just figured it out. My front lower arm holder broke off. That's why looking at the other side did not work. The other side was not moving around so much though so I assumed it was normal. Assumption: The mother of all f*** ups!

Rc cars really are not as strong as I thought they were although I have seen some people doing some mad stuff on youtube.

I mean along with that arm holder breaking my front bumper is broken too. I still have only used the buggy for those two days when I got it about 3 or 4 weeks ago.

Anyway should be all sorted now again soon...I have learned the hard way as usual.

I'm ordering the parts now tonight and am going to get one of those venom smart temps so I can tune the engine.

Vectra: Have you found a site where you can get your spares handily by using names or codes from the instruction manual?? It would be so handy.

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

Anyway should be all sorted now again soon...I have learned the hard way as usual.

I'm ordering the parts now tonight and am going to get one of those venom smart temps so I can tune the engine.

Vectra: Have you found a site where you can get your spares handily by using names or codes from the instruction manual?? It would be so handy.

Ideally you should learn to drive it before trying to Fly it
That way less seems to get broken :rolleyes:

Best place for Parts is Bolton Model mart. Just give Pete a ring or email and he will be on it in an instant.

Not sure about that venom Smart temps.
Get yourself a Temp guage and use that.:pac:

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

Ideally you should learn to drive it before trying to Fly it
That way less seems to get broken :rolleyes:

Best place for Parts is Bolton Model mart. Just give Pete a ring or email and he will be on it in an instant.

Not sure about that venom Smart temps.
Get yourself a Temp guage and use that.:pac:

What temp gauge do you use? Is Pete competitive for parts. ie. same prices as the US or ebay?

I've found everything eventually but am stuck on finding the "X1 40 stabilizer ball end" to connect the front stabilizer to the bottom a arm.

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

What temp gauge do you use? Is Pete competitive for parts. ie. same prices as the US or ebay?

I use this temp gauge >> TEMP GAUGE <<
I also use it for indoor touring car racing to check the temp of the track so as I can decide on which tyres to run :cool:

workaccount

Right. Have it nearly all fixed up again. One of the threads is ruined on where the front suspension/ wheels etc. connect to the chassis.

Not sure how that happened as I was gentle with the screws. Will have to get a die to rethread.

What do you think of this advice....
You put 4xAA batteries in it and that's what powers the receiver and servos. This should be changed for a high capacity high current rechargable receiver pack. This is ALWAYS the first upgrade to do on these 1/10th nitro cars, as the AA batteries are heavy and don't give enough current to properly power the servos (you'll immediately notice the difference when you upgrade it, the servos will be faster and stronger). You need one of these...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT1&P=7

Surely it's not applicable for a .32 cc truggy?

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

Right. Have it nearly all fixed up again. One of the threads is ruined on where the front suspension/ wheels etc. connect to the chassis.

Not sure how that happened as I was gentle with the screws. Will have to get a die to rethread.

What do you think of this advice....
You put 4xAA batteries in it and that's what powers the receiver and servos. This should be changed for a high capacity high current rechargable receiver pack. This is ALWAYS the first upgrade to do on these 1/10th nitro cars, as the AA batteries are heavy and don't give enough current to properly power the servos (you'll immediately notice the difference when you upgrade it, the servos will be faster and stronger). You need one of these...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT1&P=7

Surely it's not applicable for a .32 cc truggy?

Personally I prefer the Hump pack over the 4 AA cells.
If my memory serves me correctly Plug has a brand newhigh capacity hump pack for sale

workaccount

vectra wrote: »

Personally I prefer the Hump pack over the 4 AA cells.
If my memory serves me correctly Plug has a brand newhigh capacity hump pack for sale

Does it actually give more power or what?

FuzzyWuzzyWazza

It gives the same 6 volts as a set of 4 AA's. If you are using cheap AA's then the hump pack will be much better, if you are using duracell then not that much of a differance, but the hump pack will be cheaper to run in the longrun. Also you don't have problems with batteries working thenselves loose from the 4 cell holder.

workaccount

FuzzyWuzzyWazza wrote: »

It gives the same 6 volts as a set of 4 AA's. If you are using cheap AA's then the hump pack will be much better, if you are using duracell then not that much of a differance, but the hump pack will be cheaper to run in the longrun. Also you don't have problems with batteries working thenselves loose from the 4 cell holder.

Yeah I'm not sure if it's worth it for me as I have loads of 2700Mah GP batteries (rechargeables). For example this hump pack http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/268745.asp is only 1100Mah.

One thing I have noticed on both my car and plane is that my servos are always making noise and sometimes moving very slightly back and forth without any user input. It will start happening as soon as I turn on the receiver. I wonder if this is normal.

coolwings

workaccount wrote: »

... I have noticed on both my car and plane is that my servos are always making noise and sometimes moving very slightly back and forth without any user input. It will start happening as soon as I turn on the receiver. I wonder if this is normal.

If you turn the receiver on first it will hear background noise ... weak interference if you like, and the servos respond by twitching.

Usually we turn the transmitter on first.
This shouts down the low level interference, and the servos move only when a transmitter stick is moved.

If the servos move by themselves when the tx is on and the sticks are motionless, you have an interference problem to sort out. Sometimes it is a strong transmission nearby ...... nearly always it is generated within the model itself however. Mechanincal models with metal to metal joins and vibration like eg helis make a lot of interference.

A steel linkage to a steel engine throttle arm is almost certain to spark and make static when the engine is running. That's why we have plastic clevises or plastic engine throttle arms.
So does spark plug ignition of gasoline engine large scale models.

Electric models sometimes make interference mainly by pulsation of battery voltage radiation out of the battery leads, worn brushes of brushed motors sparking (run it in the dark and observe the blue flashes) or cheap electronic speed controllers.
We have supressor capacitors, ferrite rings, and smart supressors to deal with these issues.
Usually separating the wires to a distance from each other is enough and nothing else is required.

workaccount

coolwings wrote: »

If you turn the receiver on first it will hear background noise ... weak interference if you like, and the servos respond by twitching.

Usually we turn the transmitter on first.
This shouts down the low level interference, and the servos move only when a transmitter stick is moved.

If the servos move by themselves when the tx is on and the sticks are motionless, you have an interference problem to sort out. Sometimes it is a strong transmission nearby ...... nearly always it is generated within the model itself however. Mechanincal models with metal to metal joins and vibration like eg helis make a lot of interference.

A steel linkage to a steel engine throttle arm is almost certain to spark and make static when the engine is running. That's why we have plastic clevises or plastic engine throttle arms.
So does spark plug ignition of gasoline engine large scale models.

Electric models sometimes make interference mainly by pulsation of battery voltage radiation out of the battery leads, worn brushes of brushed motors sparking (run it in the dark and observe the blue flashes) or cheap electronic speed controllers.
We have supressor capacitors, ferrite rings, and smart supressors to deal with these issues.
Usually separating the wires to a distance from each other is enough and nothing else is required.

Cheers for that. Somebody said to me before that there was too much pressure on the servo and you need to loosen the rod that connected to it or something. Is it actually a big deal if there moving and twitching? ie. Can it damage the servo's?


btw coolwings I think I'll get a courier to pick up some Nitro from your place providing it's economical to do. Check your PM's.

workaccount

Hello again,
I have another problem here. I start the engine so it's idling. When I open the throttle (even by the slighest fraction) it will cut out.


I have ran the truggy a few times now today. I have been running a tank..letting it cut out...refill...restart.

Sometimes after the fill and restart it will go fine with no problems. Other times it will do the explained above and then work after three starts. Now though after about 7 or 8 restarts it just keeps cutting.

I've noticed that there are a small amount of tiny air bubbles in the fuel line. The fuel line has no cuts or visible damage and the connections seems fine.

workaccount

These truggys really are problematic....It's been endless problems since I got it.

I tuned the engine this evening and got a nice bit more performance out of it. I then went to tighten the brakes as they were rubbish.

I think I tightened them a little too much. (it really did not seem that much though) Anyways it seems my throttle servo is dead. When I switch the car on and move it back and forth a few times it just curls into the throttle end of won't budge then.

It's a futaba S3003 servo. They only seem to be about 8 euro on ebay. Should I get a better one to replace?

coolwings

If a servo gets wet, it moves to one end of its travel and stops there.
Put it somewhere warm to dry out. It may "recover".

workaccount

coolwings wrote: »

If a servo gets wet, it moves to one end of its travel and stops there.
Put it somewhere warm to dry out. It may "recover".

Turns out it was not the servo. Initally I thought it was the failsafe putting it into the brake position so took it out and all seemed grand again.

Then I realised I was losing signal while driving. It turns out the batteries are loose in the transmitter compartment.

I never had this problem with the old batteries until I switched at the weekend to rechargeables from the ones I got free with the truggy. There all AA though.

I'm now reduced to packing abit of toilet roll over the batteries before putting on the cover and that still does not always work.

Kind of weird for a futaba transmitter. I know it's el cheapo but still.

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

Turns out it was not the servo. Initally I thought it was the failsafe putting it into the brake position so took it out and all seemed grand again.

Then I realised I was losing signal while driving. It turns out the batteries are loose in the transmitter compartment.

I never had this problem with the old batteries until I switched at the weekend to rechargeables from the ones I got free with the truggy. There all AA though.

I'm now reduced to packing abit of toilet roll over the batteries before putting on the cover and that still does not always work.

Kind of weird for a futaba transmitter. I know it's el cheapo but still.

I think Plug may have a Hump Pack for sale that he no longer requires.
Send him a PM maybe

workaccount

Went out to take the truggy for a spin last night. Went fine for about 5 mins and then started spitting fuel out the back of the engine where the exhaust connects.

I pulled the exhaust away from the engine to inspect the seal. It seems to be a little damaged in one place. I tried to scrape it with my finger and whatever material is I scraped a layer of it away. I was also able to scrape away at the good parts of the seal.

T-Maxx

If you're melting the exhaust o-ring/coupler it means that you're most likely running the engine too lean. (They're normally made from silicone.) If you've got a leak on the exhaust system, you'll loose back pressure and that will cause the engine to run even leaner still. Buy a few spare o-rings/couplers and make sure everything is nice and snug - it might just save your engine.

syl77

When attaching muffler on to me heli engine, I use a thin layer of epoxy to act as a gasket. Makes a great seal with no leaks. Not sure if this would work with RC cars but don’t see a reason why not (but could be wrong).

workaccount

New O-rings should be here this week now anyway.

I think the problem must be the fuel. I really don't think I leaned it out too much. The recommended fuel is 20% I think - but I think 16% in Europe. I was putting euro 20% through it which may just not be suitable for the engine??

coolwings

That would be labelled 25% if sold by a maker who puts nitro in by weight (Most US brands).

workaccount

I decided last weekend to reset the truggy back to factory settings to re-tune as I've had so many problems with no being able to start the engine. As per the manual I tightened the high speed and opened it out three full turns.

The was no info on the low speed so I just tried the same thing without marking where it was initally. It kept screwing in and screwing in until I realized it's quite different from the HSN. Where is a good place to set this to - I assume you need to set it according to where the pin is located while looking into the carb?

coolwings

Set the throttle at full, then adjust the slow needle until there is a half mil gap. The gap will disappear, as you throttle down.
that's a ballpark setting on which it will start.
Get it going, and retune, leaning idle placing it in between: where it bogs down going slow, and where it gets thin going at 25% throttle. Then leave the idle jet alone!

Confucius he say:
Maturity when you buy model with electric engine that work all of time, instead of model with "real engine" for "nitro head" that sometime work all of time !

workaccount

Anybody know what those plastic/rubbery sheath covers are that are in the shock to protect dirt from getting into the oil. The cover is actually inside the spring.

What are they called?

cian1500ww

I think they're called shock boots.