I got the truggy - Cannot start it

vectra

I think it is called a Bladder

Plug

workaccount wrote: »

Anybody know what those plastic/rubbery sheath covers are that are in the shock to protect dirt from getting into the oil. The cover is actually inside the spring.

What are they called?

Shock socks.

workaccount

Shocks socks just seem to bring up those covers for completely covering the shock. Shock boots seem to be bringing up the right thing!

Another quick question - I'm going to get a receiver battery to replace the current 4xAA setup. At the moment I'm getting 4.8v. I've heard 6v will make a good difference?

Is there anypoint going higher than 6volt and is there any advantage to using lipo here rather than NI-MH?

Thanks.

cian1500ww

workaccount wrote: »

Another quick question - I'm going to get a receiver battery to replace the current 4xAA setup. At the moment I'm getting 4.8v. I've heard 6v will make a good difference?

Is there anypoint going higher than 6volt and is there any advantage to using lipo here rather than NI-MH?

Thanks.

I was thinking of getting one to, but I might just use some high capacity rechargeable batteries that I have already. Which would be better ?

workaccount

cian1500ww wrote: »

I was thinking of getting one to, but I might just use some high capacity rechargeable batteries that I have already. Which would be better ?

The rechargeable batteries will do the job but you will only be using 4 and at 1.2v the four will only add up to 4.8v. A 5 cell hump pack will have 6volts which means more power.

The high capacity you are referring to will only make the batteries last longer. ie. 2700mah will last longer than 2000mah.

vectra

Ah
I thought it was the piece inside the shock cap
If it is this piece



It is called a Dust Cover

cian1500ww

I managed to get mine starting on the first pull now but there is a lot fuel coming from the exhaust and no smoke. I'm using 25% nitro and I've leaned the HSN about 3/4 turn and its made a small bit of difference. Should I lean it more oh and it cuts out when I increase the throttle.

cian1500ww

Oh and I leaned it out even more so that it allows me to rev up but more fuel keeps coming out the exhaust.

workaccount

cian1500ww wrote: »

Oh and I leaned it out even more so that it allows me to rev up but more fuel keeps coming out the exhaust.

That would be normal on a rich engine. Because it's rich there's alot of fuel not being burned. You need to break it in like this.

Check out the carson specter thread here for breaking in. Coolwings knows his stuff and seems to be more scientific than most of the stuff you find on Youtube or other forums. He also has info on his website.

cian1500ww

workaccount wrote: »

That would be normal on a rich engine. Because it's rich there's alot of fuel not being burned. You need to break it in like this.

Check out the carson specter thread here for breaking in. Coolwings knows his stuff and seems to be more scientific than most of the stuff you find on Youtube or other forums. He also has info on his website.

So before I start the break-in process, the way it is at at the moment is its not spitting out fuel or smoke when its idling but it puts out plenty of fuel once any rev is put on it. Does that sound right for break-in ?

coolwings

cian1500ww wrote: »

So before I start the break-in process, the way it is at at the moment is its not spitting out fuel or smoke when its idling but it puts out plenty of fuel once any rev is put on it. Does that sound right for break-in ?

20% approx of the fuel you use is oil, for lubrication and cooling. The oil should dicharge from the exhaust, taking heat out with it.
So if no oil is discharging from the exhaust, either it is building up inside (engine chokes when you rev up)
OR
it is burning away inside (say hello to new engine soon) and you better richen up the settings.

Don't use the presence or absence of smoke as a tuning indicator.
That is (yet more) internet BS.
More smoke = nice and rich .... they say. :pac:
(also how would they know if your fuel has low smoke oil in it? Some fuels leave a cloud of blue around your head which is not exactly good for your lungs, overall health, or your prospects for a long life! )
So it is not so .... more smoke/dry discharge = the oil burning inside = too hot from being too lean.
You see ... liquid oil coming out of the exhaust would be accompanied by almost no smoke. Some oil will always burn along with the methanol, so some smoke is unavoidable, but not lots.

cian1500ww

coolwings wrote: »

20% approx of the fuel you use is oil, for lubrication and cooling. The oil should dicharge from the exhaust, taking heat out with it.
So if no oil is discharging from the exhaust, either it is building up inside (engine chokes when you rev up)
OR
it is burning away inside (say hello to new engine soon) and you better richen up the settings.

Don't use the presence or absence of smoke as a tuning indicator.
That is (yet more) internet BS.
More smoke = nice and rich .... they say. :pac:
(also how would they know if your fuel has low smoke oil in it? Some fuels leave a cloud of blue around your head which is not exactly good for your lungs, overall health, or your prospects for a long life! )
So it is not so .... more smoke/dry discharge = the oil burning inside = too hot from being too lean.
You see ... liquid oil coming out of the exhaust would be accompanied by almost no smoke. Some oil will always burn along with the methanol, so some smoke is unavoidable, but not lots.

It seems to be oil coming out from the exhaust as it has a light brown colour.

Judging by what you say I think I have it set properly. Its extremely sluggish to move of, does that sound right plus there is a small amount of smoke but plenty of oil discharge which I am certain.

coolwings

Sounds like a correctly rich setting for running in, from your description.
You can accelerate but only slowly, as it has to digest a fuel build-up in the lower casing while it was idling.
If you are fast, then decellerate, to idle, and accellerate back up again within 15 seconds, there is no time for fuel to build up, and I'll bet it accellerates snappy.

A bit of this, then lean it out more, and it will become more lively.

cian1500ww

coolwings wrote: »

Sounds like a correctly rich setting for running in, from your description.
You can accelerate but only slowly, as it has to digest a fuel build-up in the lower casing while it was idling.
If you are fast, then decellerate, to idle, and accellerate back up again within 15 seconds, there is no time for fuel to build up, and I'll bet it accellerates snappy.

A bit of this, then lean it out more, and it will become more lively.

Thats good to hear, I'll get started running it in know then :D

cian1500ww

Here's how it looks:


Does that look right ?

workaccount

Just a little bit worried here that I'm going to destroy the diff or something.

Still haven't got the engine started but I am noticing that sometimes when I pull the starter the shoes engage the clutch bill and try to spin the wheels. It's making a horrible crunching noise.

I had the the clutch clutch bell off there recently just to take a look and unfortunately didn't take enough care to chronicle the process. I ended up with a small washer left over at the end but figured it would be grand as it's loose but not too loose. Not sure if this could cause the clutch to engage though - anyway I suppose I'll take it apart and try and put it on properly tomorrow.

The problem is that I don't have any instructions on how to assemble this properly. There's an illustration in the manual but it must be for a different engine. Where could I find instuctions on how to do this?

There does not seem to be a proper manual available for this force 32 engine.

Also when I had the clutch bell off I noticed that one of the clutch shoes has a piece chipped off and fell out when the bell was taken off. Hardly normal wear is it?

coolwings

Time for a new clutch ....

coolwings

cian1500ww wrote: »

....Does that look right ?

That's fine.

workaccount

coolwings wrote: »

Time for a new clutch ....

Can you tell me how you reached this conclusion?

The horrible crunching noise is the diff being spun suddenly while the wheels can't move because I'm holding the truggy in place while trying to start it. There's no noise coming from the clutch.

Also when I say the clutch pad has unusual wear it's just one pad and only a very small part of of it. That particular pad still has loads of good contact space.

coolwings

If the clutch is rubbing while the car is in gear/motion, but the brakes are on at the same time, the clutch plastic shoes get hot and melt around the edges. Then it jams in the "in gear" position, and is unable to retract in uner the pull of the spring.

You said your car is stuck in gear. Ergo your clutch is compromised somewhat. Stuck "on".
Don't worry - it's only plastic. :-)

Chipping off the melted "flash" from the sides of the clutch may provide a temporary cure.
Resetting the brakes so they are only engaged below the throttle setting where the clutch puts it in gear will avoid a recurrance.

workaccount

New clutch shoes and springs have now been bought. I had the clutch bell off while trying to start the engine so it wouldn't wreck the diff.

Anyways one of the springs snapped and the two shoes came clean off and hit my hand. It was sore - lucky I didn't get it in the eye. The shoes are ruined so no chance of salvaging them.

I'm finding it hard to get a clutch tool/wrench for the .32. I can only find two and one goes up to .30 and the other .28. Do I really need one?

vectra

workaccount wrote: »

New clutch shoes and springs have now been bought. I had the clutch bell off while trying to start the engine so it wouldn't wreck the diff.

Anyways one of the springs snapped and the two shoes came clean off and hit my hand. It was sore - lucky I didn't get it in the eye. The shoes are ruined so no chance of salvaging them.

I'm finding it hard to get a clutch tool/wrench for the .32. I can only find two and one goes up to .30 and the other .28. Do I really need one?

You dont really need one .. saying that..those springs can be a f3kk3r to get on

T-Maxx

workaccount wrote: »

The horrible crunching noise is the diff being spun suddenly while the wheels can't move because I'm holding the truggy in place while trying to start it.

Time to rebuild the diff(s) it seems...

workaccount

Sorted.

cian1500ww

workaccount wrote: »

Last week two of the clutch shoes flew off when I tried to start the engine with the clutch bell off. I've ordered new ones but temporarily I put the clutch bell back on with just the one shoe installed.

Got the engine going again this evening at last. It was revving fairly high while I held it down trying to adjust the throttle. Noticed sparks were coming from the diff/clutch bell area. The teeth on the bell are now ruined and some damage has been done to the diff gear but not as much. The bell will definitely need to be replaced.

The stripping of the teeth must be to do with the fact that I was holding the car down while the engine was trying to spin the diff but I want to rule anything else out before I put in a new bell.

Could the problem be that when putting the engine back in last week I installed the bell too tight against the diff gear?

Cheers.

Start it on a block next time, sorry its a bit late

workaccount

cian1500ww wrote: »

Start it on a block next time, sorry its a bit late

I know. Twas stoopid.