Barrel Wobble JG M16A4

Sevenie · 19-04-2008 4:42pm #1

So decided to take a look inside my M16A4 today, less than a month old and about 500 bb's used. Have been well impressed with it.

Dont know much about AEG's so was just taking a look around and trying to figure out what goes where and what does what.

Took off the outer barrel and, unhinged the top of the receiver and had a look around. Didn't touch anything really, just looking. Put it ack together and felt the barrel wobble a bit, screwed it tight and still a little bit of a wobble.

Had not noticed it before I took it off, not to say it didn't always wobble but I hadn't noticed it!! Its not a huge wobble but its annoying me now cause i dont know if I did it or if it was always there.

Any thoughts??

Sevenie · 19-04-2008 5:02pm

Making loads of sense...... if I knew what you were on about!! Joking.

Yeah I'm doing the same as you twisting away to no avail. I had heard about the Tape thing but not tried anything yet.

Thanks

Sevenie · 20-04-2008 3:32pm

OK had been doing a bit of research and it seem a comon problem with M16 because of the longer barrel. How ever most of the fixes suggest getting a new one piece outer barrel as the 2 piece wobbles. I have the 6620 version and even though it looks like a one piece barrel (have not taken off the RIS so cant see exactly) its supposed to be a 2 piece but that is not where the wobble is in mine.

Its where the barrel meets the body, I have it screwed as tight as it will go and still the wobble, will try some tape around the end of the barrel where it goes into the body and see if that works.

Kristov · 20-04-2008 5:31pm

that bit you twist to tghten it will work to a point .there are two litle pins on it and two slots where the the barrell holder passes thru into the upper body.
the little pins catch the tabs on the threaded part and it tightens it down if the pins break which they do the ring will just turn and do nothing ..

theres also some grub sccrews "3" in the barrell holder which are always loose and when ya try tighten em the threads collapse if ya can drill em and rethread them with next size up and use decent screws it sorts that end out .

another design flaw is that the actual upper body flexs.. and the metal insert in the body itself is a bad fit and it moves inside the upper body . its probably a milimeter but this mil and the flexy body pluss the other loose bits gives about an inch or two flex at the flashider .

long story short ... if all this sounds like to much for some to do then its probably better to buy your self a metal body upgrade and one peice hopup .

hope this helps..............

Sevenie · 20-04-2008 6:01pm

Kristov wrote: »

that bit you twist to tghten it will work to a point .there are two litle pins on it and two slots where the the barrell holder passes thru into the upper body.
the little pins catch the tabs on the threaded part and it tightens it down if the pins break which they do the ring will just turn and do nothing ..

theres also some grub sccrews "3" in the barrell holder which are always loose and when ya try tighten em the threads collapse if ya can drill em and rethread them with next size up and use decent screws it sorts that end out .

another design flaw is that the actual upper body flexs.. and the metal insert in the body itself is a bad fit and it moves inside the upper body . its probably a milimeter but this mil and the flexy body pluss the other loose bits gives about an inch or two flex at the flashider .

long story short ... if all this sounds like to much for some to do then its probably better to buy your self a metal body upgrade and one peice hopup .

hope this helps..............

Thanks

Will have to read it a few times but if definately helps. Yeah have been thinking of buying a new metal body, one piece hop-up and a new inner and outer 1 piece barrel. Having been getting a bit dizzy looking at all the different barrels and and trying to figure out which one is best. And dont get me started on all the metal bodies. Its a little Intimidating when you are new to the Airsoft world.

Kristov · 20-04-2008 8:21pm

there is a few made by Dboys with different markings .. there fairly cheap but you will need the one peice hopup aswell.

everything from the jg will drop strait in and add another bit of weight

.

if yer on ebay check out ehobby ... they have everything you will need and not bad on post costs ...

Sevenie · 21-04-2008 2:21pm

Yeah have gotten a few things from ehobby already, pretty good.

Got the wobble sorted out, I tightened the 2 little hex screws you were on about on the outer barrel and it seems to be ok for now.

Now, on the JG there is a little spring on the hopup thats attached to the inner barrel. I was able to move the inner barrel forward (in the receiver)and it would spring back a little with the spring. Is that supposed to happen or is the inner barrel supposed to be pushed all the way forward?? Cause when i tightened the 2 hex screws it locked the inner barrel in place forward.

Am I making any sense or can you understand?

Sevenie · 21-04-2008 2:34pm

And now its misfiring, so I definately messed something up.

It fires a few bb's and the dry fires and when i take the magazine out, 5 or 6 bb's fall out from the well. Anyone any ideas??

I did also take off the grip as I had bought a Kings Arms M16 grip on ehobby, but was having a stinked of a time getting the motor to push up so i could screw the bottom back on the grip. I was using the bottom that came with the original stock grip should i have bought a new one?? Anyway in the end I put the old grip back on, will have another go at some stage when I have calmed down.

Kristov · 21-04-2008 2:42pm

it is suppose to move forward when your closing the top down loosen of the grub srews a tad and have alook through the hopup up hatch see if you can slide it back its most likley stuck forward ..

this could be the miss fire problem ...

the bbs that fall out when you release the mag is normal . my one has done it since day 1 theres always a few left in the feeder tube that link the mag and hopup..

had the same problem with motor
check that the wires are free in the girp red at front and run up the front and rear of motor the red one will stik out further i had to rap it round the top of motor then see if the bottom fits . it worked fine for me

Sevenie · 21-04-2008 3:11pm

Kristov wrote: »

it is suppose to move forward when your closing the top down loosen of the grub srews a tad and have alook through the hopup up hatch see if you can slide it back its most likley stuck forward ..

this could be the miss fire problem ...

OK thanks I'll take a look when I get home. So I guess its finding a good balance between sturdy barrel and movable hopup.

Kristov · 21-04-2008 3:31pm

once its sitting it the right place you can lock up the screws again ..
it needs to slide back to sit flush against the feeder tube .

Sevenie · 21-04-2008 7:40pm

Kristov wrote: »

once its sitting it the right place you can lock up the screws again ..
it needs to slide back to sit flush against the feeder tube .

Gotcha, yeah its working fine now, put 60 or so bb's through it and no misfiring or misfeeding. So I can tighted the 2 hex screws agian on outer barrel?? Can I leave them tight now or would I have to losen and tighted agian when I open up the gun again??

Kristov · 21-04-2008 8:09pm

yeah it should be no problem tighening them "not too much though" enough to hold the hop up and barrel in place just remember to loosen them before you strip it again .....

Sevenie · 21-04-2008 8:11pm

oh yeah ok. Thanks a lot for your help. Hope that will be the last of my problem posts........ but i doubt it.

Kristov · 21-04-2008 8:16pm

No problem at all .... if ya get stuck with anything again just fire me a pm and if can help ya i will........

Sevenie · 21-04-2008 8:23pm

Lol, you could regret that.

Kristov · 21-04-2008 8:36pm

lol......... hehehehehe.........

...........

mite try some small welds on the wobbly parts on old body for a test see if it does anythng or even if the metaly bits will take a weld ..

Sevenie · 21-04-2008 9:06pm

Its not actually wobbling as much with the 2 little screws tightened. I had put some tape on it but it was such a tight fit evey time i connected the barrel to the body it kept pusing the tape off.

I might get some one to add a few weld spots but not until I get a new body first. Still looking around, Dont know if I'll treating my M16 to new bits or buying the JG M4 S-System. I'd probably end up pimping them both out but dont want to go crazy too much.

Now that I have found Airsoft I want it all and I want it yesterday, all those year of my life I have wasted, sickening.

Evolute · 21-04-2008 9:55pm

Tightening the screws and the ring down at the bottom of the barrel made the wobble just about non existent

Kristov · 22-04-2008 12:01am

just tought of a way stop the barrel wobbling in the holder theres already grub screws in top and bottom . so if i drill strait thru from side to side "remove barrel first

" and thread these holes two more grub screws and hey presto i think .. adjustable side to side just tighten one and loosen the other untill its shooting strait

.........

ill let ya know how i get on with the spare parts test ... dont want ppl recking their gun then calling me all the fekerz undr the sun

........

Evolute · 22-04-2008 12:23am

Hmm good idea for you. However me with drill not exactly confident:p

Sevenie · 22-04-2008 10:41am

Yeah not the best with a drill myself, I'd be just looking for trouble taking a drill to it.

Kristov · 23-04-2008 9:04pm

managed to drill through the barrel holder . not exactly strait but it dont matter it was just a test .
i driled two 3mm holes and threaded them with a 3.5mm tap put two grub screws into it and adjusted them until barrel was dead strait then done the top and bottom ones untill barrel was level .

gave everything a little nip and job done ......
i refitted the rail system "which was when i had the most wobble" and it was grand no wobble what so ever and when i fired it iwas dead strait looking through the scope i could see the bbs going strait along the vertical scope line with a little drift from the wind .

I also fitted the metal body and the one peice hopup and have to say it makes a big difference over the two peice standard one no more multi bbs on semi . and the metal body removed the last flexy part of the gun

.
stuk a couple pics on to show the mess i made .......:D

Sevenie · 23-04-2008 9:21pm

Very Nice, not the prettiest looking but it's hidden and if its shooting straight, thats all that counts. Got to say I'm not even close to being that brave or talented when it comes to drilling holes in my beloved M16. Think I'll have to wait till I have it near wrecked before I break the drill out.

What Metal body did you get? Been looking at a few and a few inner barrels, but probably wont make a purchase for a while yet. Need to clear my Credit Card before I allow myself to but any more toys.

Sevenie · 23-04-2008 9:26pm

Kristov · 23-04-2008 9:33pm

its the Dboys one with marine markings "allegidly" everything drops strait in only problem ive had was when i tightend up the long bolt that runs through the stock into the back of the gearbox it pulled the gearbox back a bit which made the fire selector switch very hard to turn onto full auto .
Reckon i have to put a spacer between the inside of body and back of the gearbox to stop it pulling back .
ill have a look later see if i can get into it or if theres enough space to fit a washer .

Kristov · 23-04-2008 9:37pm

the KM one is probably the best inner barrel to get .
not too sure what EG is i think your rite about the BS being brass and TN i think is teflon coated suppose to be one of the best around .

Sevenie · 28-04-2008 6:05pm

Just found out what EG means in reference to iner barrels.

Quoting:

"TN stands for Titan/Teflon Nickel (hardening) coating. Prometheus EG means Entry Grade. It is to distinguish the standard 6.03 tightbore form other their tightbore barrels (which are numbered according to size, eg a PDI 04 272mm barrel will be 6.04mm)"

Barrel Wobble JG M16A4

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