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Insulated plasterboard and mushrooms

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Comments

  • #62
    sheff the ref
    Registered Users Posts: 618 ✭✭✭sheff the ref


    listermint wrote: »
    Use spray foam plaster board fixing. I've used it everywhere in the house bar ceilings. You'd have to be seven shades of stupid to get it wrong. It also provides a thermal break.

    That looks very user friendly, and it would appear as though there will not be much of a void/gap between the board and the masonry wall


  • #63
    10-10-20
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,240 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    I found that it averaged at about 1cm of a gap after full expansion. That gives some flexibility on uneven surfaces too.


  • #64
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,048 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    10-10-20 wrote: »
    I used Pink Grip when fitting insulated boards. Other expanding foam wasn't as good at all. It's pricey and I found that when it said that I'd get 5 boards to an can - it was all lies and I only got about 2 boards to a can. I had a fair few cuts to make in fairness. The builders-providers might do a deal on multiples.
    In terms of simplicity, it is easy enough, but you do have to baby-sit the freshly applied boards for at least 20 mins afterwards as they can expand after application (even with 4 and a half mins of expansion time before application of the board to the wall).
    And yes, you are supposed to support the boards with mushroom fittings as a second level of support. I realised that when one of the boards delaminated on a small patch of wall which I hadn't treated for dust (using SBR).

    Definitely getting 5 boards plus from a can. You might have been over cooking it


  • #65
    sheff the ref
    Registered Users Posts: 618 ✭✭✭sheff the ref


    10-10-20 wrote: »
    I found that it averaged at about 1cm of a gap after full expansion. That gives some flexibility on uneven surfaces too.

    If the walls are relatively level, mechanical fixings are surely a better job as it eliminates any gap completely, and the sheet is fixed firmly against the wall.

    There is a lot of advice these days to fit the sheet directly onto the wall and not to have a gap behind


  • #66
    10-10-20
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,240 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    listermint wrote: »
    Definitely getting 5 boards plus from a can. You might have been over cooking it

    I don't disagree. I may have gained slightly on the u-value through over-application. :pac:

    But seriously, I had three windows to contend with in 11m2 of wall and only one board was adhered whole, the rest were 1/3 cuts, and the rest. So I was a worst-case scenario perhaps.


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  • #67
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,048 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    10-10-20 wrote: »
    I don't disagree. I may have gained slightly on the u-value through over-application. :pac:

    But seriously, I had three windows to contend with in 11m2 of wall and only one board was adhered whole, the rest were 1/3 cuts, and the rest. So I was a worst-case scenario perhaps.

    Gets much easier the more you do. With windows you want to make sure the board is at least covering the window by about 300mm you want the L shape one one board to cover the corners then you cut the window shape out of that board after it set.


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