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LT-40 build starting soon

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    #32
    workaccount
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,460 ✭✭✭workaccount


    coolwings wrote: »
    Recommending a radio is something that goes like this. Everybody says their radio is the best! Well we would wouldn't we? It's like cars.

    All I can say ... I have used the makes below at some time or other.
    Sanwa
    Hitec
    JR
    Multiplex
    Futaba
    unnnamed chinese grey market copies of Futaba.

    After using all those .. I now use JR, in the european style case. Specifically an MC-22 10-12ch.
    Now that's not a beginner radio I would be the first to agree. It's also not suggesting that the other types don't work. They all have their own following. Both the 2.4 ghz and 35FM.

    The heli needs 5 channels to fly. So a 6ch will do that job fine for you.

    PM received ... will reply from my own computer tomorrow.

    After further research it seems that hi tec ironed out the problems I spoke of in a firmware update.

    Is it true that alot of radio's in the states have the functions reversed on the joysticks. ie. throttle on the right?? I dunno where I heard this.


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    #33
    coolwings
    Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 3,455 Mod ✭✭✭✭coolwings


    workaccount wrote: »
    ....Is it true that alot of radio's in the states have the functions reversed on the joysticks. ie. throttle on the right?? I dunno where I heard this.
    not just the US ... also different in mainland Europe. l
    Last Feb I flew a german radio I had my arms crossed right hand on left stick & vice versa, it was a LOT harder than it sounds, automatic instantaneous responses return to beginner style ... look, think then do, and even then I was overcorrecting by miles! :pac:


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    #34
    workaccount
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,460 ✭✭✭workaccount


    coolwings wrote: »
    not just the US ... also different in mainland Europe. l
    Last Feb I flew a german radio I had my arms crossed right hand on left stick & vice versa, it was a LOT harder than it sounds, automatic instantaneous responses return to beginner style ... look, think then do, and even then I was overcorrecting by miles! :pac:

    I want the throttle on the left anyway and control on the right (aileron). The rudder I suppose will be on the left then.

    Is this the hitec 6 setup?


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    #35
    coolwings
    Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 3,455 Mod ✭✭✭✭coolwings


    throttle-rudder left
    ailerons-elevator right
    This is called mode 2.
    It is assumed as standard in the UK and Ireland. 99% of Irish modellers use this system. It replicates the controls of a private aircraft ... dashboard throttle, pedal rudder, right handed flying on joystick doing ailerons-elevator.


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    #36
    workaccount
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,460 ✭✭✭workaccount


    Hi,
    This project all went on the back burner when the foam I was using to build on starting coming off the bench.

    I had it stuck with double sided tape I got from an art supplies place. I want to kick off this project again soon. I want to go the foam direction again if possible as I don't know if I will build anymore after this project so I want to keep the costs low.

    Is there any better double sided tape I can buy so the foam won't come off the bench again?


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    #37
    coolwings
    Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 3,455 Mod ✭✭✭✭coolwings


    Why not use a simple sheet of plastic to cover the surface?
    Cut a fertiliser bag down three sides.


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    #38
    workaccount
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,460 ✭✭✭workaccount


    coolwings wrote: »
    Why not use a simple sheet of plastic to cover the surface?
    Cut a fertiliser bag down three sides.

    The foam was for sticking the pins into.


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    #39
    coolwings
    Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 3,455 Mod ✭✭✭✭coolwings


    I have a 3mm or 1/8th sheet of plywood that I thow up on the table as a work surface.
    It wobbles while in the hand, but once on the table it lays flat. Not stuck on with anything, just laying on the table.
    Ball head pins don't penetrate it much, just their tips. But that's enough to tack a structure down.

    A local timber supplier will have something suitable and low cost.

    A sheet of 1/8th lite ply from the modelling shop makes a deluxe building surface with a good amount of pin penetration, and I might use one of those next time I want to upgrade to a shiny new building board.

    I'm sure everybody has their own answer for their favourite building board.


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