3 Programs giving 3 different core temp readings.

pedro ferio-vti

Just wondering if anybody can shed any light on this. I have clocked my Q6600 to 2.9ghz with my new aftermarket cooler and just wanted to keep an eye on core temps.

I was initially using PC Probe II which came with the Mobo I bought and seemed ok but was advised against it. So off I went and downloaded Coretemp and Speedfan.

My issue now is I have 3 different core temp readings! And would like to know which one to trust as they all vary by 10 degrees celsius. Readings after a cold boot are as follows (taken straight after boot to xp)

Coretemp average across all cores: 38degress
PC Probe II average across all cores: 28 degrees.
Speedfan average across all cores: 18degrees

Which one do I trust? The coretemp one seems to be quite high reading after a cold boot? This and speed fan are quite highly regarded it seems so I'm stumped!

Any help appreciated!

SS added after I wrote this post, temps climbed a bit as normal, but same problem!

PogMoThoin

Both Core Temp and Speedfan will read correctly, they read from a temp sensor in the cores. Core temp is right in your case. The speedfan temperature should be 15'c off as it incorrectly reads the t-junction as 85'c instead of the actual 100'c. You can set this 15' offset in Speedfan if you wish to use it.

T-junction is the temperature that the chip will shutdown to protect itself (its not measured in the core but on the outside of the IHS in the centre). The general rule is to allow 15'c for the difference between the core and the centre of the IHS. In other words t-junction = 100'c - 15'c = 85'c..................this is the temp your chip will shutdown at, don't go over 75'c just to be safe as it will start to throttle ~5'c below this.

Forget about the Asus software, it reads from a sensor on the board, not the core.

Edit: U using Vista? Get Everest and this gadget.
Edit 2: Sorry, its this Everest Ultimate Edition You need for sidebar support, not free.

pedro ferio-vti

No not using Vista. Using XP at the moment for compatibility with 1 or 2 games. Thanks for the info, very useful. I've programmed the 15 degree offset onto all cores so speedfan reads correctly now.

You were right about the size of the cooler btw, was fecking huge! And a bit of a pita to install due to the metal sink bars around where the cpu is installed. I'm kind of nervous about how securely that H brack can support that big lump of a thing as my tower is upright which put extra pressure on this obviously.

At the moment playing most games i'm seeing coretemps on 1 and 2 staying around 58 degrees from Coretemp. Is this normal do you think at my current speed?

I actually had quite a time getting my system to be stable even at 2.82ghz on this mobo. Not mentioning going near the Ram clocking features or timing as any time I tried to go above the machine wouldnt post or do other weird stuff.

PogMoThoin

I'd say the reason your hitting a wall is that your pushing your ram 2 much. Post a screenshot of your overclock with cpu-z open twice, with the cpu & memory tabs open.

Hope you've given up on a software overclock. These things are best done in the bios.

Use OCCT to fully stress your system to maximise temps and make sure your fully stable. Also use memtest to test your ram.

pedro ferio-vti

Yea I gave up on the software. Doing it from bios. Can't adjust the Multiplier so just adjusting FSB. Here's the SS:

PogMoThoin

What ram u got? Put it on a divider running slower with 5-5-5-15 timings, set all other ram timings to auto. Add 10 to your fsb and try boot windows, if it fails add more vcore (up one notch) until you get it to pass 1 hour OCCT. Then push a little more.

There are some things you gotta disable, c1e, speedstep, spread spectrum etc, Check on XS forums for an overclocking thread with a guide to all the functions in your bios

Edit: Plenty of Boardsies have this board, perhaps someone here will help you

Chosen

PogMoThoin wrote: »

Edit: U using Vista? Get Everest and this gadget.
Edit 2: Sorry, its this Everest Ultimate Edition You need for sidebar support, not free.

Nope, get the CoreTemp gadget

PogMoThoin

:rolleyes: How do you manage to have 4 cores with 0% usage in Vista, mines at bout 5-10% just idling in Vista gadgets n stuff running, steam, xfire, msn, Everest, Rivatuner etc

Anti

PogMoThoin wrote: »

:rolleyes: How do you manage to have 4 cores with 0% usage in Vista, mines at bout 5-10% just idling in Vista gadgets n stuff running, steam, xfire, msn, Everest, Rivatuner etc

The gadget dosent work properly at all. Its not worth downloading. Also, mine all idle 1-5% when sitting doing nothing.

pedro ferio-vti

I'm using OCZ 8500 Reaper RAM.

Just on my core temps Pog, do you think it's normal for me to see circa 65 degree temps while playing CoD4? I'm using the same cooler as you on the same chip but lower clock speed. What typical temps do you see while gaming?

PogMoThoin

Temps really depend on case, fans and airflow. Post a screenshot of the inside of your case.

I've got 3x120mm Yate loon 70cfm fans in a Thermaltake Armour, no airflow probs here. Try to tidy cables out of the way of airflow and keep air flowing in the same direction if possible, in at front and out at rear, no cross flows or side fans as these can interfere with airflow.

What voltage are you giving to your chip? I'm sure I'm pumping far more volts to mine at 3.2Ghz & mine is a b3 stepping. My chip doesn't even hit 60' with COD4.

challengemaster

Intel TAT?

riptide

Pedro. Try Realtemp and report back your results. http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/

pedro ferio-vti

I'll try RealTemp tonight Rip, cheers.

On the idle and load temps, I opened her up again and tidied up the wiring a small bit, it's still not very pretty to look at but it works and I have improved airflow intake from the front upper half of the tower by removing the blanking plate where the Floppy drive goes and this has improved things a lot.

Temps never go above 58 or 59 degrees while gaming and temps while browsing and usual desktop apps are about 50 degrees.

If I was to give an opinion, i'd say the case is nice to look at, spacious too but airflow intake from the front of it is not great tbh. When installed and I have my huge graphics card in, the vents at the lower part of the case do nothing at all really as the fans and CPU are all located in the upper half of the case when installed and upright so removing that blanking plate really becomes a necessity if you want to overclock a bit.

riptide

Thats why you go out and buy 80mm fans in a shop and prop them up aorund the bottom of the case at the 'hot' zones. Won't be pretty. But it'll be effective.

pedro ferio-vti

Downloaded and ran Realtemp... that gives me another temp lol. Here's a screen shot:



Had no joy trying to overclock above what I have at the moment. When i anything over 1250 my keyboard won't get detected while posting and I have to reset the bios each time. That's with a manual adjust of vCore to 1.45v and 1350 to cpu. I must be forgetting to adjust something or missing something entirely?

riptide

Pedro... you can take the average of those 3. And run with that. Its not recket science but its ballpark.

riptide

pedro ferio-vti wrote: »

Downloaded and ran Realtemp... that gives me another temp lol. Here's a screen shot:



Had no joy trying to overclock above what I have at the moment. When i anything over 1250 my keyboard won't get detected while posting and I have to reset the bios each time. That's with a manual adjust of vCore to 1.45v and 1350 to cpu. I must be forgetting to adjust something or missing something entirely?

^^ Whats these figures????

pedro ferio-vti

They're the FSB figures. The BIOS interprets the FSB in a different kinda way instead of being in 3 digit simple mhz figures. That's what I get to work with

Chosen

riptide wrote: »

^^ Whats these figures????

Check the screenshot:

The red is what most motherboards with Intel chipsets refer to as "FSB", while the actual term is "Bus speed".
The green is what all nVidia based boards use, instead of the "FSB", Front Side Bus.

Surprisingly enough, nVidia's term of "FSB" (e.g. 1333MHz) is correct, while the rest of the chipset manufacturers refer to "Bus speed" (e.g. 333MHz) as "FSB" in their BIOS setups.
FSB=4*Bus speed (aka Quad Pumped)

Nevertheless, using the bus speed is easier, because all you need to do is multiply by the chip's multiplier, while the FSB, you need to divide it by 4, before you multiply it by the multiplier...

riptide

Maybe I'm going blind, but what board are you using Pedro? is it a nVidia chipset board? Many of those nVidia chipset boards have not been good for overclocking. Too much of a 'luck' factor to be of interest to me. The only reason you should go for nVidia chipsets is SLI. Oh and for the memory tweaking element if you want ot run specific becnhmarks.

Pedro. I'm not familiar with nVidia boards, however, I do know on many others that the default vdimm when set to auto very often is 1.8v. On your reapers (I also have a set ) at full speed the vdimm should be set to 2.3. (Even 2.4v if the board has vdimm droop). Try that!

pedro ferio-vti

It's an Asus Striker Extreme, and yes it does have the Nvidia chipset onboard. Main reason I bought it was it was cheap and had 2 PCI-E slots should I ever wanna SLI in the future. Given that i've bought an ATI 3870x2, I don't know whether i'll go down that route. But I still may do if this new PSU doesn't remedy the piss poor performance i'm getting out of the ATI card atm. I've actually reverted back to my 8800GTS as it's giving better performance atm -.- but that's another story / thread.

Will try setting those voltages manually later. As said, i've set everything to Auto as I assumed that Auto would overestimate the Voltage I need across the board. Once I booted, I could view the voltages and then back them off incrementally until I end up with a stable clock and minimum volts to keep unnecessary heat to a minimum. But since it's not even posting on Auto, i'll have to go and manually try input everything.

Doesn't the vDimm just control memory clocking? If so what bearing with that have on my CPU clock? I've not touched the memory clocks or timings as I wanted to minimise the amount of variables I was dealing with, they're on auto.

riptide

pedro ferio-vti wrote: »

It's an Asus Striker Extreme, and yes it does have the Nvidia chipset onboard. Main reason I bought it was it was cheap and had 2 PCI-E slots should I ever wanna SLI in the future. Given that i've bought an ATI 3870x2, I don't know whether i'll go down that route. But I still may do if this new PSU doesn't remedy the piss poor performance i'm getting out of the ATI card atm. I've actually reverted back to my 8800GTS as it's giving better performance atm -.- but that's another story / thread.

Will try setting those voltages manually later. As said, i've set everything to Auto as I assumed that Auto would overestimate the Voltage I need across the board. Once I booted, I could view the voltages and then back them off incrementally until I end up with a stable clock and minimum volts to keep unnecessary heat to a minimum. But since it's not even posting on Auto, i'll have to go and manually try input everything.

Doesn't the vDimm just control memory clocking? If so what bearing with that have on my CPU clock? I've not touched the memory clocks or timings as I wanted to minimise the amount of variables I was dealing with, they're on auto.

Ok. On NVidia boards does the FSB increase independently of Ram Speed? I had assumed previously that adjusting the FSB had also adjusted the Ram speed,.,, as it does on non nVidia Intel boards.

Anyways try that.

But... to test the Northbridge/chipset (and not the CPU) drop the multilier on the Q6600 to something less than 9. And then try booting with a higher FSB than you have now. If you get problems even THEN, that means (generally) that you're board limited by the damn chipset... OR that your Q6600 is FSB limited.

Also, how hot is that northbridge getting? i hear nVidias get furiously hot. Like I said in another post here, get a 80mm fan from [M]Craplins and sit it on your GFX and blow air into the board.