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Door hinge question

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  • 18-05-2008 10:09pm
    #1
    cubix
    Registered Users Posts: 2,161 ✭✭✭


    Anyone put up a door lately or change out hinges??. Just wondering if there are any trade secrets. I have done a few before but the edges always seem rough and I always seem to take to much out of the depth part. Does anyone ever use a router or is this over kill. Never tried them before but how hard are hinges with round edges

    Cubix


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    #2
    Latchy
    Closed Accounts Posts: 21,191 ✭✭✭✭Latchy


    If your screw plugs can fit into the old depth holes then its only a matter of making sure door knob is level with frame as well as not to much gap under door.Taking to much depth out is a problem but it was somthing i had to do myself a while back with square hinges (without using router ) and it was trial and error.


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    #3
    gsxr1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    I hung 60 doors last week with my router. It leaves a much better finish, and the depth of your cuts will be consistent

    Cut out the shape of the hinge with a stanley knife first. router up to you cut and finish it of with your chisels.

    simple;)


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    #4
    jdpl28
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 186 ✭✭jdpl28


    hey, i'm hanging doors myself and was wondering if there was any trade secrets? it's a brand new door in a brand new door frame. should I put the hinge on the door first, or the frame? and how do you get it lined up so the door isn't bumping into the jam, or not too far away from the jam? I've done it twice so far, but haven't been able to do it well without trial and error and having to plug up old screw holes...

    thanks,
    J


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    #5
    cubix
    Registered Users Posts: 2,161 ✭✭✭cubix


    Cheers lads;), gsxr1 never used a router before what type of bit would I be looking for?. Like the idea of the stanley knive for square edges

    Cubix


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    #6
    gsxr1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    cubix wrote: »
    Cheers lads;), gsxr1 never used a router before what type of bit would I be looking for?. Like the idea of the stanley knive for square edges

    Cubix

    you should use a regular 3/4 inch bit. Your router will probably have a guide with it . set it to the pencil mark you make when tracing the shape of hinge onto the door.

    jdpl.
    it kind of hard to explain the method on a forum. You really need to see it done to learn.

    I will try anyways.


    First off.

    make sure your frame is perfectly plumb and level. If you have a 6' level use it.

    tack 4 nails onto each corner of the frame the width of the door into the frame. This will act as a temp door stop.

    Place the new door into the frame and against the nails.

    Lift the door with a small nail bar till it is tight against the head of the frame. Check the head and styles are even with the door.

    Make a small mark where the hinges will be. 6" down and 9" up on the door

    Using a new open hinge as a spacer . place the open hinge on top of the door and lift the door again tight agaist the frame with the nail bar. This will act as your margin on the head of the door.

    while tight against the head, transfer the pencil marks you made on the door to the frame.


    Take the door down . trace the hinge to the door and frame with a pencil and cut out shape with your Stanley knife. router or chisel out the hinge on the frame and door.

    screw the hinges to the door then offer up to the frame.


    try for a 3mm margin all over. Use your power plane to get perfect.

    your will need to back plane the lock side of the door to give it clearance to close with out catching on the frame.

    Im sorry if this is hard to follow. Its something that you really need to see.

    try youtube


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    #7
    cubix
    Registered Users Posts: 2,161 ✭✭✭cubix


    As you say not easy to describe but think I got most of it;). As regards back planning I had a door off one day and they seemed to have backed planned the hinge side of the door and not the look side, any idea why?
    A bit of a noob question but I presume because router bits spin you wont get a square edge with one. Another words you would route up to the corner of your hinge cut out and then finish it with a chisel

    Thanks


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    #8
    gsxr1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    cubix wrote: »
    As you say not easy to describe but think I got most of it;). As regards back planning I had a door off one day and they seemed to have backed planned the hinge side of the door and not the look side, any idea why?
    A bit of a noob question but I presume because router bits spin you wont get a square edge with one. Another words you would route up to the corner of your hinge cut out and then finish it with a chisel

    Thanks

    sorry. both ends should be back planed for clearance.

    Some times I dont bother back planing the hinge side. Just laziness.

    the door runs a bigger risk of becoming hinge bound . That's when the door closes and binds against the frame on the hinge side. Taking a bit off reduced the risk.
    you are correct about the router bit. You can get a corner chisel if you are really into it. They are available from B&Q at the router section. they chop down with a 90 degree blade and remove the excess.

    good luck and take your time


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    #9
    cubix
    Registered Users Posts: 2,161 ✭✭✭cubix


    Did you ever hear of this crowd or use their products. IT seems like a good idea for squaring up your frame with out the need for messing with shims/wedges. I noticed from watching a few Utubes they all seem to install the frame with the door in place, is it the same here. Will have to keep my eye on Lidl/Aldi for a six foot level.

    http://expressproduct.com/index.html


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    #10
    Hotwheels
    Registered Users Posts: 751 ✭✭✭Hotwheels


    The only tip I can add is make sure your tools are sharp, grinding &sharpening chisels properly isn’t easy, there may be a local saw doctor who’ll do it for you for a few euros. And it makes cutting hinges/ locks a lot easier. And don’t buy cheap stuff their not worth it, the steel in them is not great.

    If you’re fitting a frame from new go for a flat (if its internal) frame with separate door stops, that way if the door ever twists (and they do) you can remove the stop and reposition it to fit the door again. Much easier than trying to plane a rebated frame.

    If you’re making/fitting the frame yourself, you can make life a lot easier by allowing a good 3/16” freedom for the door width. That way you’ll only have to undercut the door, and save a bit of time/sweat.

    Make sure the frame is fitted plum and square this makes life a lot easier, you can plum one style and fix it. And use eye sight (much better than level) and sight the other style off of it.
    I usually don’t fully fix the closing style (lock side) until last, that way if something moved I can adjust it before final fixing.

    The secret to hanging any door is all in the frame, if its badly fitted, you’ll suffer…

    Best of luck with the project :)


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