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Oven & Hob Wiring

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  • 04-06-2008 10:48pm
    #1
    Cmar-Ireland
    Registered Users Posts: 2,340 ✭✭✭


    Hi All,

    I want to connect our oven and hob to the supply in our new house. there is a single wire for power from the cooker switch above the counter.
    The hob, a bosch induction, has a cable coming from it and the oven, a bosch double build under, has the connection terminals behind the elec panel.
    There is no facility to loop the oven to the hob, which was how I expected it to be.
    So to connect this, should I get a connection block and run the hob wire plus a length of 2.5sq from the oven to this, then join to the supply?

    Thanks!


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    #2
    ircoha
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,290 ✭✭✭ircoha


    Does the hob cable come with a flexible metal duct: the last one I did had it so I used a junction box with a connecting block as u describe to connect in cooker


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    #3
    Cmar-Ireland
    Registered Users Posts: 2,340 ✭✭✭Cmar-Ireland


    No flexi cable, just a six core rubber cable. It has 2x L, 2x N & 2x E cables terminated together with crimps.


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    #4
    Stoner
    Registered Users Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    the issue here relates to the size of the MCB supplying the cookers, 32 Amp will cover the 6sq cable, but this may be too much load for the flex/hob.

    Some people just ignore this and uses a 4sq flex to to feed the hob with a connector block to feed the oven, or they use a cooker connection unit and connect both units to it.

    Its not right if the hob is only rated for 20 Amps as the MCB will allow 30+Amps to the, and you can't just change the MCB to a 20 Amp one as the oven may require 20+ Amps

    I've two cables in my house but 6sq but one fused down to 20 Amps.


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    #5
    Cmar-Ireland
    Registered Users Posts: 2,340 ✭✭✭Cmar-Ireland


    I checked the hob last night, it states 7200w on the back. That's 7.2kw. Sounds very high?
    Anyway, the MCB is 32amp.
    I was going to get a higher rated connector block and conect the hob cable and a spur to the oven to that. Then connect up to the cooker switch.
    Is that an acceptable/safe method?


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    #6
    Stoner
    Registered Users Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    Cmar-Ireland wrote: »
    I was going to get a higher rated connector block and conect the hob cable and a spur to the oven to that. Then connect up to the cooker switch.
    Is that an acceptable/safe method?

    Well not really, but as long as you fuse the spur down you are portecting the hob and hob cable that's a good thing, the rating for the hob is high alright, it leaves little juice for the oven, with this method you run the risk of an over current some christmas day when everything is going full whack.

    With such a high load on the hob (something that you should not ignore regardless of who tells you it wont draw that load) you would really need a seperate cable for the oven on its own circuit IMO.


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    #7
    Cmar-Ireland
    Registered Users Posts: 2,340 ✭✭✭Cmar-Ireland


    Ok, so if I connect the hob directly to the cooker control switch, I can take a fused spur from that to the oven. What rating fuse should go to the oven?

    On a side note, why would the hob have L1 & L2, N1 & N2 and two earths with each pair joined?


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    #8
    Stoner
    Registered Users Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    Cmar-Ireland wrote: »
    Ok, so if I connect the hob directly to the cooker control switch, I can take a fused spur from that to the oven. What rating fuse should go to the oven?

    On a side note, why would the hob have L1 & L2, N1 & N2 and two earths with each pair joined?


    well at this stage I'd really need the make and model of the oven and the hob, I don't know what to rate the spur at because i dont know what oven you have

    and the L1, L2 marking on the hob cold mean one of two things,

    1) you can loop in and out of the hob to an oven
    2) its some kind of two phase unit (unlikely)

    as a result of these markings I'd park any advice received here until you provide the info on the hob too please.

    Note I never said that it was good proctice to do as you planned, if the hob requires 31 Amps at full load on its own then you have very little left for the oven, and that a seperate cirtcuit would be best

    It might be the case that these are a pair of units that require you to cable into the hob and then loop into the oven and the 7500W is a combined load, but without further info it's hard to tell.


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    #9
    Cmar-Ireland
    Registered Users Posts: 2,340 ✭✭✭Cmar-Ireland


    Stoner,

    The hob is a bosch PIE640E01E and the oven is a bosch HBN43M561B

    Ideally I would like to have two supplies, but it wouldn't be possible at this stage to do that. (definately will have it when we eventually build)
    I saw something online that suggested fitting a mini fuseboard under the counter with two mcb's, 16 & 32amp for the oven and hob.


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    #10
    ircoha
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,290 ✭✭✭ircoha


    Cmar-Ireland wrote: »
    Stoner,

    The hob is a bosch PIE640E01E and the oven is a bosch HBN43M561B

    Ideally I would like to have two supplies, but it wouldn't be possible at this stage to do that. (definately will have it when we eventually build)
    I saw something online that suggested fitting a mini fuseboard under the counter with two mcb's, 16 & 32amp for the oven and hob.

    the hob requires 32A and the cookers 16A so the next question is to ask what size the cable is as it might be possible to upgrade the mcb from the existing 32 if the cable is big enough and the run is not too long.
    re
    On a side note, why would the hob have L1 & L2, N1 & N2 and two earths with each pair joined?
    it makes it easier to wire internally


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    #11
    Cmar-Ireland
    Registered Users Posts: 2,340 ✭✭✭Cmar-Ireland


    ircoha wrote: »
    the hob requires 32A and the cookers 16A so the next question is to ask what size the cable is as it might be possible to upgrade the mcb from the existing 32 if the cable is big enough and the run is not too long.

    It's 6sq cable and the fuseboard is probably 10-12m from the cooker switch.


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    #12
    knighted_1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 870 ✭✭✭knighted_1


    Cmar-Ireland wrote: »

    On a side note, why would the hob have L1 & L2, N1 & N2 and two earths with each pair joined?

    it is configured this way so they can sell the same model in different countries ,by simply linking the L1 AND L2 (L3 should be blank) it is configured for single phase

    it means the hob can be wired to 3 phase in some countries and single in others (look on the back and it should give you 3 or 4 different wiring combinations )

    it has nothing to do with ease of wiring or to take a feed off for the oven


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    #13
    Cmar-Ireland
    Registered Users Posts: 2,340 ✭✭✭Cmar-Ireland


    BTW, the oven is rated at 5kw. So there is potentially a 12.2kw draw if all rings & both ovens were running at full whack.

    So what I think I should do is, use a cooker connection unit to split the power from the switch to the hob and oven. The hob will connect to the ccu via it's own cable and the oven via a length of 2.5.
    Please correct me if this is wrong.

    Thanks


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    #14
    knighted_1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 870 ✭✭✭knighted_1


    i should have posted already but an induction hob is recommended that it has its own separate feed ,and not connected in any way to cooker/oven

    you should have two feeds running from your fuse box to satisfy the needs of both


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    #15
    Cmar-Ireland
    Registered Users Posts: 2,340 ✭✭✭Cmar-Ireland


    knighted_1 wrote: »
    i should have posted already but an induction hob is recommended that it has its own separate feed ,and not connected in any way to cooker/oven

    you should have two feeds running from your fuse box to satisfy the needs of both

    Ideally thats what I'd like, but it would be a huge job to do it now. I hope that a ccu to feed both will be ok?


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