Intruder Alarm Questions and Answers

altor

itsallaboutme!! wrote: »

altor no warning lights at all stay on the keypad once we disarm the alarm when it sounds.

Hi itsallaboutme,

You will have to get it checked by an alarm company if it happens again, as i said it could be that the external bell is gone faulty. If the light had stayed on i would of thought maybe the external bell tamper had come loose but this does not sound like the case as if there was a tamper you would not be able to set the alarm.

idmig

Altor, thanks for that trip to Wicklow today. quality service, will be in touch when I have that other info

altor

idmig wrote: »

Altor, thanks for that trip to Wicklow today. quality service, will be in touch when I have that other info

Your welcome idmig, always happy to help if i can

.G.

I need to default a CS350.I know I've to remove the mains and battery power then remove the JP1 pin to default it.

Question is if the panel turns out to be engineer locked,what will happen to it when I replace the pin and power?

Will it be the same as before I tried to default it or will I make it unusable?

Cheers

fred funk }{

You wont damage the panel by trying to reset it. Remember you must power it up again with the jumper removed, the alarm will sound. If your code disarms it it is not reset. The factory codes are 01122 for user and 01278 for engineer. Once you disarm it put the jumper back on.

altor

superg wrote: »

I need to default a CS350.I know I've to remove the mains and battery power then remove the JP1 pin to default it.

This is the correct way to do it.

superg wrote: »

Question is if the panel turns out to be engineer locked,what will happen to it when I replace the pin and power?

Nothing will happen, the panel wont return to factory settings. It will stay as you had it before with all the settings the installer set up.

superg wrote: »

Will it be the same as before I tried to default it or will I make it unusable?

You will have to set the time but all other settings like user code, eng code zone types etc will stay the same.

.G.

Silver Knight wrote: »

You wont damage the panel by trying to reset it. Remember you must power it up again with the jumper removed, the alarm will sound. If your code disarms it it is not reset. The factory codes are 01122 for user and 01278 for engineer. Once you disarm it put the jumper back on.

altor wrote: »

This is the correct way to do it.



Nothing will happen, the panel wont return to factory settings. It will stay as you had it before with all the settings the installer set up.



You will have to set the time but all other settings like user code, eng code zone types etc will stay the same.

Ok thanks lads

the-dude

Will the astec devices work on a hkc panel. the astec panel is installed at the moment but is causing alot of false alarms. if panel was changed to hkc, would all devices have to be changed as well.

KoolKid

Astec devices will only work with Astec panels.
The devices are as reliable as any other. What false alarms are you getting?

altor

the-dude wrote: »

Will the astec devices work on a hkc panel. the astec panel is installed at the moment but is causing alot of false alarms. if panel was changed to hkc, would all devices have to be changed as well.

No, the astec devices will only work with the astec system. If your getting alot of false alarms you should check the log to see what is activating the alarm rather than thinking of changing the panel. It is more than likely a faulty sensor on the system that is causing the alarms.

If you did want to change the panel you could put in a astec fusion. With this panel you can use the astec two wire devices, internal bell and external bell plus if needs be add conventional sensors on to the system.

Jnealon

A proper service will sort out your false alarm issues and save you the expense of a new panel.
As already mentioned it probably just a faulty sensor or a loose connection

johnnyrotten

Hi All,

We have a HKC Securewatch system. Occasionally we get false alarms on 1 zone ( downstairs rear shocks (Inertias)). We got 3 last night 1am, 2am and 6.30am . We had 2 tonight. We may not get another for weeks. There are 10 inertias on this zone, 3 of which are on velux windows. Yesterday I disabled the ones on the velux but we got a false alarm tonight.
Is there any other way of finding the faulty sensor (assuming thats the problem) by that i mean process of elimination? Thanks

fred funk }{

johnnyrotten wrote: »

Hi All,

We have a HKC Securewatch system. Occasionally we get false alarms on 1 zone ( downstairs rear shocks (Inertias)). We got 3 last night 1am, 2am and 6.30am . We had 2 tonight. We may not get another for weeks. There are 10 inertias on this zone, 3 of which are on velux windows. Yesterday I disabled the ones on the velux but we got a false alarm tonight.
Is there any other way of finding the faulty sensor (assuming thats the problem) by that i mean process of elimination? Thanks

Yes.

You will need a multimeter. The zone needs to be metered to find the faulty one(s).

With the meter connected to the cable for that zone at the control panel get somebody else to tap each sensor about ten times. With the meter on the continuity setting take note of the reading before the tapping begins.

When you tap a sensor the reading will jump right up then settle back and then back to the same reading as before or within an ohm or two. If the reading stays up you have found a faulty one.

Remember that there may be more than one faulty sensor on the zone so meter out every sensor.

peterbainbridge

Hi
how can i fit a new bell box to my system? the old one had six wires in to it i believe there was no cut off which i think you now need, also there wasn't a battery in the bell box

2 go to the siren
2 go to the strobe
2 go to the anti tamp switch on case

the replacement box has a battery and a PCB in it
and 8 connections to it as follows

tamp out
tamp in
micro
supply +
supply_
strigger
strobe +
strobe_

any help or advice will be much appreciated thank you

altor

peterbainbridge wrote: »

Hi
how can i fit a new bell box to my system? the old one had six wires in to it i believe there was no cut off which i think you now need, also there wasn't a battery in the bell box

2 go to the siren
2 go to the strobe
2 go to the anti tamp switch on case

the replacement box has a battery and a PCB in it
and 8 connections to it as follows

tamp out
tamp in
micro
supply +
supply_
strigger
strobe +
strobe_

any help or advice will be much appreciated thank you

What type of external bell are you trying to fit on to the alarm, have you got a make or model number ?

The external bell time in the control panel needs to be changed to cut the external bell off after 15 minutes. The old external bell has not got a cut off time if the power fails and the back up battery dies in the control panel thats why it will ring till the battery goes dead in it. The fitting of the new external bell and the time change will sort this for you.

ista

I have a HKC Securewatch 6/10 that may have a faulty sensor. The symptoms are that the alarm is going off inside the house though the bell box lights are flashing but the sound is barely audible. All this occurs only when on full set. The log is telling me that there is an entry fault/alarm/entry fault/alarm etc.. at the back of house. Should mention that I changed the entry/exit to the back door which is part of a zone with 4 windows.

Is this the pattern that occurs with a faulty sensor or am I barking up the wrong tree!?!?!?!

Any help appreciated.

KoolKid

It sounds like there is a fault on the sensor or contace on your back door .
This would also explain why only the internal bell rings.

altor

ista wrote: »

I have a HKC Securewatch 6/10 that may have a faulty sensor. The symptoms are that the alarm is going off inside the house though the bell box lights are flashing but the sound is barely audible. All this occurs only when on full set. The log is telling me that there is an entry fault/alarm/entry fault/alarm etc.. at the back of house. Should mention that I changed the entry/exit to the back door which is part of a zone with 4 windows.

Is this the pattern that occurs with a faulty sensor or am I barking up the wrong tree!?!?!?!

Any help appreciated.

Hi ista,

First off you should not have the windows and door on entry/exit. If some one does try to gain entry through the rear windows of your house they will have ample time to get in as they are on entry/exit.
You should try split them up E.G connect the back door onto zone one with the front door and leave the windows on zone four.
It is hard to find out what is the faulty sensor be that the door or the windows as they are all looped together. First off check the cables in the sensors for loose connections, make sure the arrows on the sensor heads are pointing up then enter 0#3 on your keypad to walk test the sensors on this zone, give all the sensors a couple of bangs a couple of times plus open and close the back door. Enter your user code to get out of the walk test.
Let us know how you get on.

Jnealon

If you have a multimeter handy you could check each sensor.
I would also recommend that you get this alarm serviced by a licensed company.

the-dude

altor wrote: »

Hi ista,

First off you should not have the windows and door on entry/exit. If some one does try to gain entry through the rear windows of your house they will have ample time to get in as they are on entry/exit.
You should try split them up E.G connect the back door onto zone one with the front door and leave the windows on zone four.
It is hard to find out what is the faulty sensor be that the door or the windows as they are all looped together. First off check the cables in the sensors for loose connections, make sure the arrows on the sensor heads are pointing up then enter 0#3 on your keypad to walk test the sensors on this zone, give all the sensors a couple of bangs a couple of times plus open and close the back door. Enter your user code to get out of the walk test.
Let us know how you get on.

I have a similar problem with aritech cs250. why does it just happen on full arm.

KoolKid

It could be just coincidence its only false alarmsing on full set or it could be a zone thats off on part set. What message are you getting after an alarm activation?

the-dude

koolkid wrote: »

It could be just coincidence its only false alarmsing on full set or it could be a zone thats off on part set. What message are you getting after an alarm activation?

burglar message. zone is a perimeter zone so active in partset also. 8 devices. I have moved resistor to cover 5 devices to see if I can eliminate the faulty device.

altor

the-dude wrote: »

I have a similar problem with aritech cs250. why does it just happen on full arm.

With a faulty sensor it could activate the alarm at anytime.

the-dude wrote: »

burglar message. zone is a perimeter zone so active in partset also. 8 devices. I have moved resistor to cover 5 devices to see if I can eliminate the faulty device.

Taken a few off the loop might lead you to believe you have solved the problem only for the alarm to activate again. Your better off testing them individually with a multimeter to find the faulty sensor as there could be more than 1 faulty sensor on the loop.

KoolKid

altor wrote: »

Your better off testing them individually with a multimeter to find the faulty sensor as there could be more than 1 faulty sensor on the loop.

The quickest & most reliable solution. Remember it may be more than one device that is faulty.

altor

koolkid wrote: »

The quickest & most reliable solution. Remember it may be more than one device that is faulty.

The way he is doing it he could be going around in circles

Waesfjord

Hi,

Can anyone know where I can pick up a battery (Yucel Y2.1-12) for an Astec 63DV Alarm - I've already had a look at battery, so changing it out is not a problem. Seem cheap in UK (~£10) however expensive delivery (an extra £15!!).

For testing a faulty sensor (I have a double and single patio door, three contacts in total). I have already completed the inbuilt check which beeps when contact made or broken, each door working okay. As these contacts are wired in series, is there an easy way to detect the faulty contact, or are these contact cheap enough that it's simply a matter of swpaping out all three, that way eliminating the faulty one & possibly future faulty ones?

Would anyone have a link to the engineers manual available, also know what is the factory default engineer code, so I can check to see if it has been modified ?

Appeciate any help folks.

captainsparo

Hey, I have a 6 core cable from my control panel to my sensor(Its the only sensor on the zone). I have 8 terminals in my sensor, does anyone know what colour wires go where? My sensor has 1&2 - Tamper, 3&4 - Voltage, 5&6 - Alarm, 7- EOL and 8- Cant Remember but dont think its needed! Also my colours are red, black, blue, yellow, white and green.

fred funk }{

Can anyone know where I can pick up a battery (Yucel Y2.1-12) for an Astec 63DV Alarm

Any electrical wholesalers should sell them. If you're in Dublin Astec will sell you one directly, they're on Pearse Street. Expect to pay between 15 and 20 euro.

For testing a faulty sensor (I have a double and single patio door, three contacts in total). I have already completed the inbuilt check which beeps when contact made or broken, each door working okay. As these contacts are wired in series, is there an easy way to detect the faulty contact, or are these contact cheap enough that it's simply a matter of swpaping out all three, that way eliminating the faulty one & possibly future faulty ones?

Forget that walk test, it's useless.

The only way to test a zone properly is to meter it with a multimeter.
It's handy if you have another person to help.

First thing to do is to remove the cable from the zone that's give trouble. Go to the last sensor, the one with the resistor in it.You need to remove the resistor and wire the two cables back into the sensor, wire them one each into the outside terminals. Put the lid back on.

Now, with the meter set to 200 ohms and with one person at the panel with the two prongs of the meter on the cable the was removed earlier you should have a reading, maybe 5 to 10 ohms or there abouts.

You should open/close and tap each sensor, the reading should change and settle back down to the original reading or there abouts. If it stays up by more than two or three ohms its faulty. Even if you find a faulty one check the rest because there could be more than one faulty.

After testing rewire the last sensor back to the way it was with the resistor.

hat is the factory default engineer code

engineer code 1174
user 4711

KoolKid

brian1976 wrote: »

Hi,

Can anyone know where I can pick up a battery (Yucel Y2.1-12) for an Astec 63DV Alarm - I've already had a look at battery, so changing it out is not a problem. Seem cheap in UK (~£10) however expensive delivery (an extra £15!!).

What is your location?
In Dublin try Reliable Security .

brian1976 wrote: »

For testing a faulty sensor (I have a double and single patio door, three contacts in total). I have already completed the inbuilt check which beeps when contact made or broken, each door working okay. As these contacts are wired in series, is there an easy way to detect the faulty contact, or are these contact cheap enough that it's simply a matter of swpaping out all three, that way eliminating the faulty one & possibly future faulty ones?

The best and most reliable way to find fault sensors or contacts is as follows.

• Remove the EOL resistor from the zone in question.
• Remove the pair for that zone from the panel & connect to a multimeter on a long lenght of cable .
• Set the multimeter to continunity <= 200ohms.
• make a note of the reading
• With the meter in your hand open & close each contact & tap each sensor one by one.
• After each tap or open close the reading should return to the same level.
• If the level stays higher remove & close off that device & check the rest.

brian1976 wrote: »

Would anyone have a link to the engineers manual available, also know what is the factory default engineer code, so I can check to see if it has been modified ?

Appeciate any help folks.

The factory engineer code is 1174. I'll PM you link for manual.

altor

brian1976 wrote: »

Hi,

Can anyone know where I can pick up a battery (Yucel Y2.1-12) for an Astec 63DV Alarm - I've already had a look at battery, so changing it out is not a problem. Seem cheap in UK (~£10) however expensive delivery (an extra £15!!).

For testing a faulty sensor (I have a double and single patio door, three contacts in total). I have already completed the inbuilt check which beeps when contact made or broken, each door working okay. As these contacts are wired in series, is there an easy way to detect the faulty contact, or are these contact cheap enough that it's simply a matter of swpaping out all three, that way eliminating the faulty one & possibly future faulty ones?

Would anyone have a link to the engineers manual available, also know what is the factory default engineer code, so I can check to see if it has been modified ?

Appeciate any help folks.

Hi brian1976,

If you want to find the faulty sensor koolkid gave a good explanation of the way it should be done. If not you can pick up contacts for €3 each in astec plus you can get the battery there too. If you ask they might give you an installer guide also.

I take it you want info on replacing the battery. Safety first. The alarm is connected to the mains so make sure the power is off going to the panel before you do any work on it. Always down power the alarm if your going to replace the battery as many people have shorted out there panel doing this with the power on.

Power down panel by removing fuse at front of panel or switching off mains. Twist screws at front of panel. They dont come out. Take off lid. Remove battery fob. Remove screws that hold the panel together. Remove screws that hold on the pcb. Battery is behind the pcb. Replace battery, making note of the way the old battery is installed. Put back together. Put in battery fob. Put in fuse. Reset time and date. Job done.

There is no reason for you to default the panel just to change the battery.

Any problems, we are here to help..