Intruder Alarm Questions and Answers

altor

captainsparo wrote: »

Hey, I have a 6 core cable from my control panel to my sensor(Its the only sensor on the zone). I have 8 terminals in my sensor, does anyone know what colour wires go where? My sensor has 1&2 - Tamper, 3&4 - Voltage, 5&6 - Alarm, 7- EOL and 8- Cant Remember but dont think its needed! Also my colours are red, black, blue, yellow, white and green.

What type and make is the sensor ? Motion detector maybe ?

Jnealon

captainsparo wrote: »

Hey, I have a 6 core cable from my control panel to my sensor(Its the only sensor on the zone). I have 8 terminals in my sensor, does anyone know what colour wires go where? My sensor has 1&2 - Tamper, 3&4 - Voltage, 5&6 - Alarm, 7- EOL and 8- Cant Remember but dont think its needed! Also my colours are red, black, blue, yellow, white and green.

Sounds like a honeywell DT. To find out what wires go where you will need to check at the panel or get a tech in to do it for you

Waesfjord

fred funk }{ wrote: »

Forget that walk test, it's useless.

The only way to test a zone properly is to meter it with a multimeter.
It's handy if you have another person to help.

First thing to do is to remove the cable from the zone that's give trouble. Go to the last sensor, the one with the resistor in it.You need to remove the resistor and wire the two cables back into the sensor, wire them one each into the outside terminals. Put the lid back on.

Found the sensor with resistor. Red in terminal 1, black in terminal 2, resistor across terminals 2 & 3. So from your instructions, I remove the resistor, then move black cable from terminal 2 to terminal 3, then put sensor cover back on, then proceed with checks, yeah?

fred funk }{ wrote: »

You should open/close and tap each sensor, the reading should change and settle back down to the original reading or there abouts. If it stays up by more than two or three ohms its faulty. Even if you find a faulty one check the rest because there could be more than one faulty.

For the standard door open contact, is there an inbuilt shock sensor also, or was your description meaning, dependent on whether it was a contact or a shock sensor, then openclose door or tap the sensor?

fred funk }{ wrote: »

Even if you find a faulty one check the rest because there could be more than one faulty.

If I find the first one faulty, do I need to bypass this contact on loop, in order to properly test the remaining ones, in case it affect the resistance of loop, rather than the 'test' contact?

fred funk }{ wrote: »

Even if you find a faulty one check the rest because there could be more than one faulty.

After testing rewire the last sensor back to the way it was with the resistor.

fred funk }{ wrote: »

engineer code 1174
user 4711

The default engineer code does not work. Whn I moved into house, the alarm was removed and reset by Astec in town. I presume the elec then set an engineer code, which now I don't have.

Is it normal for each electrician to have one engineer code for all Astec alarms that person works on, so easy for them to remember - I could try and contact that electrican (although about 4years since work done) to see if he has the number, will provide it to me. anyone any advice?

Alternative, is to short out the specific contacts on the circuit board to force a reset of the engineer code - is this easy to do, once you ensure to short out the correct contacts (or else alarm is fckued ?

Thanks folks!

altor

brian1976 wrote: »

Found the sensor with resistor. Red in terminal 1, black in terminal 2, resistor across terminals 2 & 3. So from your instructions, I remove the resistor, then move black cable from terminal 2 to terminal 3, then put sensor cover back on, then proceed with checks, yeah?

Put black cable in terminal 3, then close lid, then proceed.

brian1976 wrote: »

For the standard door open contact, is there an inbuilt shock sensor also, or was your description meaning, dependent on whether it was a contact or a shock sensor, then openclose door or tap the sensor?

On a back door your more than likely to get a shock/contact. Yes, open and close the sensor a number of time plus tap the sensor to activate the shock a number of times.
If you have a shock/contact on the loop it is more than likely the faulty sensor.

brian1976 wrote: »

If I find the first one faulty, do I need to bypass this contact on loop, in order to properly test the remaining ones, in case it affect the resistance of loop, rather than the 'test' contact?

Its always best to test the sensor on its own with a length of cable going to your meter.

brian1976 wrote: »

The default engineer code does not work. Whn I moved into house, the alarm was removed and reset by Astec in town. I presume the elec then set an engineer code, which now I don't have.

The default code on the panel is changed when an installer installs the alarm, very rare to come across an alarm left at default.

brian1976 wrote: »

Is it normal for each electrician to have one engineer code for all Astec alarms that person works on, so easy for them to remember - I could try and contact that electrican (although about 4years since work done) to see if he has the number, will provide it to me. anyone any advice?

Depending on the installer the code could be the same for all his alarms but there is no harm in trying to get it off him.

brian1976 wrote: »

Alternative, is to short out the specific contacts on the circuit board to force a reset of the engineer code - is this easy to do, once you ensure to short out the correct contacts (or else alarm is fckued ?

Thanks folks!

There is but you will need a installer to do this for you. You could try to default the alarm, if its not eng locked you will return the panel to factory settings but only do this if you are confident you can reprogram the alarm.

Remove the Battery & factory links located to the left and right of the PCB. Disconnect the mains power.
Reapply the mains power and replace the 2 links. Try disarm the alarm system using the factory code 4711. If the system disarms you have reset the panel and can enter engineering using the default code 1174. If this does not work then the system is engineer locked.

Waesfjord

Regarding engineer mode, I have found a code I think may be enginer mode.

Can someone please tell me how exactly do you enter engiener mode.

When alarm disabled, I was entering CLEAR, then code, however nothing happening.

Do you have to use user code first, or hit a function key prior to entering eng. code or something else?

Cheers

altor

brian1976 wrote: »

Regarding engineer mode, I have found a code I think may be enginer mode.

Can someone please tell me how exactly do you enter engiener mode.

When alarm disabled, I was entering CLEAR, then code, however nothing happening.

Do you have to use user code first, or hit a function key prior to entering eng. code or something else?

Cheers

If the alarm is set up to EN standards you need to enter CLEAR FN 0 USER CODE. CLEAR, THEN THE ENG CODE.

If it is not set up this way just entering the eng code will bring you into engineering.

Waesfjord

altor wrote: »

If the alarm is set up to EN standards you need to enter CLEAR FN 0 USER CODE. CLEAR, THEN THE ENG CODE.

If it is not set up this way just entering the eng code will bring you into engineering.

altor wrote: »

If the alarm is set up to EN standards you need to enter CLEAR FN 0 USER CODE. CLEAR, THEN THE ENG CODE.

If it is not set up this way just entering the eng code will bring you into engineering.

When I enter CLEAR FN 0 USER CODE just, I get ENGINEER appearing in top right, ACCESS in top left. If I press clear again, I just go back to start though, and when I press in the digits for the eng code, nothing happens, just see the CODE flashing, so looks like not taking the code.

Any advice anyone?

altor

brian1976 wrote: »

When I enter CLEAR FN 0 USER CODE just, I get ENGINEER appearing in top right, ACCESS in top left. If I press clear again, I just go back to start though

This is correct the way your doing it. All this does is gives the engineer access to put in his code.

brian1976 wrote: »

and when I press in the digits for the eng code, nothing happens, just see the CODE flashing, so looks like not taking the code.

The code your putting in after you press clear is not the engineer code thats why nothing happens.

You could default the alarm and if it is not eng locked bring the panel back to factory settings. If this works for you i am more than happy to talk you through re-programming the panel.

Waesfjord

altor wrote: »

You could default the alarm and if it is not eng locked bring the panel back to factory settings. If this works for you i am more than happy to talk you through re-programming the panel.

Thanks for the offer.

Easy it is to force a factory reset, and if that works, is it relatively easy to reprogram the alarm?

I'll get the spare sensor and battery in the meantime anyway. Tried to go into Altec on Saturday, only to find the whole place locked up, so will try again during the week.

altor

brian1976 wrote: »

Thanks for the offer.

Easy it is to force a factory reset, and if that works, is it relatively easy to reprogram the alarm?

I'll get the spare sensor and battery in the meantime anyway. Tried to go into Altec on Saturday, only to find the whole place locked up, so will try again during the week.

Your welcome,

Your panel is very easy to default plus reprogram when you know how to do it.

Make sure you turn off the mains power going to the alarm before you change the battery.

Waesfjord

altor wrote: »

On a back door your more than likely to get a shock/contact. Yes, open and close the sensor a number of time plus tap the sensor to activate the shock a number of times.
If you have a shock/contact on the loop it is more than likely the faulty sensor.

I took off the cover and it sounds like it has small stones inside that make noise when I pulled cover off - that make sense?

I only have a cheap and cheerful multimeter. Can I attach this directly up to the contacts in the sensor after removing the red & black wiring, to test the resistance, when opening/closing and when tapping or is the alarm control box required to power the loop to allow testing?

altor

brian1976 wrote: »

I took off the cover and it sounds like it has small stones inside that make noise when I pulled cover off - that make sense?

Yes this is the shock part of the sensor.

brian1976 wrote: »

I only have a cheap and cheerful multimeter. Can I attach this directly up to the contacts in the sensor after removing the red & black wiring, to test the resistance, when opening/closing and when tapping or is the alarm control box required to power the loop to allow testing?

No, you will need the lid on the sensor as this is what your testing. You will need to run a length of cable from the sensor to your meter, if you do it this way you wont have to disconnect the loop from the alarm plus it is a better way to find faulty sensors on a loop.

Waesfjord

altor wrote: »

No, you will need the lid on the sensor as this is what your testing. You will need to run a length of cable from the sensor to your meter, if you do it this way you wont have to disconnect the loop from the alarm plus it is a better way to find faulty sensors on a loop.

Call me stupid but, :rolleyes:

You mean for the last sensor in loop,

• after removal of the resistor across connection 2 & 3, then to just run temporary cable from sensor connections 1 & 3 to meter, leaving the alarm cabling to connections 1 & 2 alone, so they remain in place. Replace cover & do the resistance testing with my multimeter whilst standing next to the sensor, thus no diconnection of wiring at alarm control box.

And for the sensors upstream, same goes except there, fitted alarm wiring will be from terminals 1 & 3, nothing connected at # 2, so temporary wiring will be from same terminals (1 & 3) as alarm system wiring?

altor

brian1976 wrote: »

Call me stupid but, :rolleyes:

You mean for the last sensor in loop,

• after removal of the resistor across connection 2 & 3, then to just run temporary cable from sensor connections 1 & 3 to meter, leaving the alarm cabling to connections 1 & 2 alone, so they remain in place. Replace cover & do the resistance testing with my multimeter whilst standing next to the sensor, thus no diconnection of wiring at alarm control box.

And for the sensors upstream, same goes except there, fitted alarm wiring will be from terminals 1 & 3, nothing connected at # 2, so temporary wiring will be from same terminals (1 & 3) as alarm system wiring?

If you have more than one sensor on the loop the end sensor after you remove the resistor alarm wiring will be from terminals 1 & 3.
The other sensors on the same loop should be wired red or what ever colour wire is there in terminals 1 & 3, terminal 2 will have two blacks joined together creating the circuit.

Beats6

I have a Visonic alarm system that was poorly installed never worked. Is there someone in the Galway area that I could contact to resolve?

Jnealon

What part of Galway. I know a company in athlone who serve ballinasloe, mount bellew etc.
That said I do not think it is possible to poorly install one of these as they are fairly fool proof. What kind of problems are you having

altor

Beats6 wrote: »

I have a Visonic alarm system that was poorly installed never worked. Is there someone in the Galway area that I could contact to resolve?

Hi Beats6,

If you contact homesafe.ie 1890 66 77 88 they use this system and have installers in every area so will be able to get someone to look at your alarm for you.

kop-end

guys,

Need a bit of help here. I want to beef up my patio door (french doors) and front door. both doors are PVC. anybody know of any extra locks or bolts I can get for them.

Thanks

KoolKid

A little off topic for here. You would be better off posting in DIY forum.

Waesfjord

Hi folks,

Went into Altec today, got the battery *(€15+VAT) and the contact/shick sensor (€13+VAT).

Went to tackle the easy job first - replacing the battery.

So easy to kill power, get the covers off, letting the outside alarm go off continuosly though. Don't know what powers this - is it straight from battery (as disconnecting battery connections at bottom right of PCB didn't stop it, however after diconnection, replacing same stopped alarm for a minute, as I think fooled it into thinking everything okay again, till it picked up box off again) - is there a capacitor or something used for this klaxon?

Battery seems to be sitting on two horizontals arms, one either end, each arm having a lip on end that catches the edge of alarm.

When I pushed the two arms slightly down to stop the lips from preventing sliding the battery out, there still seemed to be something preventing any battery movement - is there something else keeping the battery in place or is it just jammed in quite tight, so needs a good pull to start movement?

I had no extra pairs of hands around, so decided to call a halt at the moment, as alarm going off, newborn next door, so trying to give them some peace, and get some input from you experts!!:cool:

Is there something I'm missing?

KoolKid

brian1976 wrote: »

So easy to kill power, get the covers off, letting the outside alarm go off continuosly though. Don't know what powers this - is it straight from battery (as disconnecting battery connections at bottom right of PCB didn't stop it, however after diconnection, replacing same stopped alarm for a minute, as I think fooled it into thinking everything okay again, till it picked up box off again) - is there a capacitor or something used for this klaxon?

There is a capacitor in the SABB itself.

brian1976 wrote: »

Battery seems to be sitting on two horizontals arms, one either end, each arm having a lip on end that catches the edge of alarm.

When I pushed the two arms slightly down to stop the lips from preventing sliding the battery out, there still seemed to be something preventing any battery movement - is there something else keeping the battery in place or is it just jammed in quite tight, so needs a good pull to start movement?

Before proceding isolate the mains at the fuse board.
Those arms are not ment to move , they are simply there to hold the battery in place. You need to remove the PCB from in front of the battery. This is held in place by 2 half inch phillips screws located centre of the board & to the right hand side. When you remove the board lift away & you will see the reason the battery would not budge. Its cable tied. Snip this & tilt the battery towards you from the top. Remove the 2 leads & lift out the battery. Connect the leads to the new battery observing the red & black terminals. Replace the battery & refit the PCB.
Replace cover & reapply the battery link , the mains fuse , the top cover & then reapply the mains from the fuse board.

fred funk }{

There should be a cable tie holding in the battery, cut this to remove the battery.

When you change over the bell make sure you tuck the battery leads away carefully because it's very easy to pierce them with the solder spikes at the back of the PCB when it's screwed back on. This will result in damaging the main board.

The external bell has its own battery, when it loses power from the house it will ring for 15 minutes, there is nothing you can do to stop it while the panel is powered down except remove it from the wall and unclip the battery from it.
The best thing to do is to change the battery quickly and at a time that doesn't disturb the neighbors to much.

Waesfjord

fred funk }{ wrote: »

There should be a cable tie holding in the battery, cut this to remove the battery.

thanks guys.

I got misled by the lad in Astec. I asked if they hada any tie wraps there when purchasing the battery, as I assumed this was what was holding it in place. He said something about the tie wrap being shipped with the abttery, not being required, so I had assumed it was just wrapped around the battery body, not to anything else, hence my confusion earlier - Dop!! :rolleyes:

He did mention what ye said about care with the battery cabling to ensure not pierced/pinched by PCB, in fairness to him also (whilst semi-jokingly offering to give me a good deal on an updated alarm system )

Will try again at weekend, as working evry other day, will give the neighbours peace till then!!

altor

brian1976 wrote: »

Is there something I'm missing?

This is how it is done.

Safety first. The alarm is connected to the mains so make sure the power is off going to the panel before you do any work on it. Always down power the alarm if your going to replace the battery as many people have shorted out there panel doing this with the power on.

Power down panel by removing fuse at front of panel or switching off mains. Twist screws at front of panel. They dont come out. Take off lid. Remove battery fob. Remove screws that hold the panel together. Remove screws that hold on the pcb. Battery is behind the pcb. Replace battery, making note of the way the old battery is installed. Put back together. Put in battery fob. Put in fuse. Reset time and date.

Hope this helps..

fred funk }{

He did mention what ye said about care with the battery cabling to ensure not pierced/pinched by PCB, in fairness to him also (whilst semi-jokingly offering to give me a good deal on an updated alarm system )

They're a good bunch in there, will always sort you out and never act the maggot with returns etc.

positivenote

our airtech house alarm has recently had a new battery put in but we still get an irritating 'chirping' noise from the box outside. is there a battery in this box and if so is it easily replaced or wil i have to get someone out to do the work for us?
thanks

KoolKid

Are you sure its coming from the outside box?
There is not a battery as such, its a capacitor & not easily changeable.
Does the bell work if you activate the alarm.?
Its possible a connection to the bell was disturbed when the battery was replaced.

Jnealon

Sounds like a tamper problem with the bell. But before you run up a ladder check the hold-off and tamper return connections at the panel.
This is a common fault with the AG3/Ventcroft boxes.
There is a battery in your bell box but it is unlikely that it is the source of the problem

Tim M-U

positivenote wrote: »

our airtech house alarm has recently had a new battery put in but we still get an irritating 'chirping' noise from the box outside. is there a battery in this box and if so is it easily replaced or wil i have to get someone out to do the work for us?
thanks

What kind of bell is it? Usually its a sabb installers use but they sometimes tend to use other ones. There's some kind of battery, but its not easily changed (open to corrections). I would imagine theres a battery in the panel and is wired up.
Take a look at goldebpages.ie and search an installer if your not keen on fixing it yourself, insure they meet the requirements n standardsv(en50131, psa, nsai)

KoolKid

To clarify. With a few exceptions, most bells do not have a battery. It's a capacitor. It is soldered to the PCB and not easily changeable.