Intruder Alarm Questions and Answers

hello932

altor wrote: »

Hi hello932,

Is it i wired alarm or a wire free system you have installed ?

To be honest im not that sure..i think its wired at the moment

But to be honest i just want to cancel my contract with eircom and get a new alarm fitted..where might be a good starting point to view my options?

Couldn't help but notice the lack of a 'sticky' in this forum for house alarms...

altor

hello932 wrote: »

To be honest im not that sure..i think its wired at the moment

But to be honest i just want to cancel my contract with eircom and get a new alarm fitted..where might be a good starting point to view my options?

Couldn't help but notice the lack of a 'sticky' in this forum for house alarms...

How old is the alarm ? If it is a wired HKC 8/12 securewatch panel you could set it up to text your phone instead of ringing them. If not you could always install a voice dialer on to the system for self monitoring.

KoolKid

Your best bet would be to get a few quotes from some licenced company's,. Ask them to call out & do a survey for you. They will be able to advise whether wire or wireless will suit your property. Its also possible a hybrid system may be your best option.
As always get a few quotes & compare like with like to see you are getting the most information & the best price.
They will also give you options on ARC monitoring or self monitoring
Always look at the equipment you are getting priced for. I'd recommend using the makes that are in Ireland. Europlex,Aritech, Astec, HKC etc.
Lately there are some suppliers happy to buy abroad & ship into Ireland.
No good for Ireland & no good for you with problems in the future.
If going for any wireless insist on systems using the new European wireless frequency 868MHz.

hello932 wrote: »

Couldn't help but notice the lack of a 'sticky' in this forum for house alarms...

Didn't you post this in a sticky?
See my sig re a dedicated forum for electronic home security.

bryanbal

altor wrote: »

Did you take the phone numbers you programmed into the dialer out ?
This Comes up after the panel has failed to make a call to the central station if the amount in the retry count has being reached.



You need to add these in the zone options to the engineer walk test.

All sorted,will probably be back here when i get a voice module. For now
thanks for help

altor

bryanbal wrote: »

All sorted,will probably be back here when i get a voice module. For now
thanks for help

Your welcome, always happy to help..

bryanbal

koolkid wrote: »

LCS3 connects to STRB (Strobe)
HC S1 connects to ext - (External Bell -)
HC + connects to ext + (External Bell +)
C connects to bho (Bell Hold Off)
T connects to tamper return

hi
whats the best way to wire hkc ext bell to aritech cs250

thanks

i have it wired like this
+strobe not wired
- strobe to - internal bell
tamper return to ext tamper
bho to ext tamper
resistor in hkc panel left in
ext bell + to ext bell
ext bell -to ext bell-

is this ok that i dont have + strobe wired

Tim M-U

Best to wire strobe + and - to internal sounder therminals + and -.. if u only wire one i might not flash or it might not light at all!.
Removing the tamper is a no no, because there's no protection for the bell, therefore you should use all 6 wires..
altor might be able to help ya!
Hope this helps!
Have a nice day!

bryanbal

Tim M-U wrote: »

Best to wire strobe + and - to internal sounder therminals + and -.. if u only wire one i might not flash or it might not light at all!.
Removing the tamper is a no no, because there's no protection for the bell, therefore you should use all 6 wires..
altor might be able to help ya!
Hope this helps!
Have a nice day!

ya was thinking of putting in - int siren too, was left out in book but thats a different sabb anyway. ya tamper is working.
thanks

altor

bryanbal wrote: »

hi
whats the best way to wire hkc ext bell to aritech cs250

thanks

i have it wired like this
+strobe not wired
- strobe to - internal bell
tamper return to ext tamper
bho to ext tamper
resistor in hkc panel left in
ext bell + to ext bell
ext bell -to ext bell-

is this ok that i dont have + strobe wired

Tim is correct you need the strobe connected for the strobe to work. You connect the strobe to the small bell (6+ 7-) external to the big bell (8+ 9-) and the tamper to the external tamper terminals.

dclifford

Can anyone please tell me where the yellow wire in the picture needs to go back into? I think it got tugged out when removing the cover of the box.

altor

dclifford wrote: »

Can anyone please tell me where the yellow wire in the picture needs to go back into? I think it got tugged out when removing the cover of the box.

For starters the resistor should be installed in the external bell outside. It looks like the resistor is connected in the terminals where the black and yellow should be. Have you tried put the cover back on and see if a fault comes up on the alarm ?

dclifford

Everything appears to work fine when the box cover is back on. The alarm sets and resest by entering the code and detects entry etc. There is no fault alarm/error with the cover on (no alarm light on the keypad for fault).

altor

dclifford wrote: »

Everything appears to work fine when the box cover is back on. The alarm sets and resest by entering the code and detects entry etc. There is no fault alarm/error with the cover on (no alarm light on the keypad for fault).

It is not installed correctly but is working because the alarm can see the resistor it needs to see in the panel. If its not broke dont fix it

dclifford

Do you think the yellow cable was just sitting free within the box then? Not happy with that because it could have shorted something. They could have at least covered up the exposed cable.

KoolKid

dclifford wrote: »

Do you think the yellow cable was just sitting free within the box then? Not happy with that because it could have shorted something. They could have at least covered up the exposed cable.

Its only the tamper return. The resistor is in the panel so it will work fine.
No danger of shorting anything out really!

altor

dclifford wrote: »

Do you think the yellow cable was just sitting free within the box then? Not happy with that because it could have shorted something. They could have at least covered up the exposed cable.

More than likely, the proper way it should of being done is the resistor in the external bell, black in BHO, yellow from resistor. At panel black in sab hold, yellow in tamper return. It wont short anything as its not connected to anything.

dclifford

Thanks for the replies guys. I will leave it alone then.

I was thinking the bare wire could short something by creating a bridge on the a circuit board. I dd not mean a short if connected.

altor

dclifford wrote: »

Thanks for the replies guys. I will leave it alone then.

I was thinking the bare wire could short something by creating a bridge on the a circuit board. I dd not mean a short if connected.

Your welcome, i would leave it alone also unless it was causing you any issues.

pmac086

Hi Kool Kid.
I am new to the boards Hi.
Having read the threads I hope you can help me too. I have the Aritec CS250 with communications but do not need it and the problem I am having is that the panel on event log is seriously logging call test failed, line fault etc. I wish to disable the communications as I do not need it.
Can you advise
Cheers

Tim M-U

pmac086 wrote: »

Hi Kool Kid.
I am new to the boards Hi.
Having read the threads I hope you can help me too. I have the Aritec CS250 with communications but do not need it and the problem I am having is that the panel on event log is seriously logging call test failed, line fault etc. I wish to disable the communications as I do not need it.
Can you advise
Cheers

Do you have the engineer code? This is required for to disable the communication component. I have not used the system so I cannot help you as much as koolkid can though.. I have attached the Manual (Aritech_CS250_Manual.pdf) which could be useful for you.

Have a nice day!

ebuy

Helle, could someone please tell me how many wires are required to wire a HKC RPK and a bell box.
I have a 10 core cable going to my Garage and I'd like to be able to put two zones, a bell box and a RPK.

If anyone has a copy of or a link to the installation manuals for the SW812 that would be great.

bryanbal

Next question is on the quik bridge. I am wiring it into an aritech cs250. On quik bridge side the zone led lights up when i activate device and tamper light when i tamper it, so i think that side is ok. now when i wire to panel say 1 wire zone 7 to one leg in panel zone 7.i dont get correct responses when i check for open zones and tampers. whats the best way to wire it to panel and what loop settings should be on.
thanks again

KoolKid

pmac086 wrote: »

Hi Kool Kid.
I am new to the boards Hi.
Having read the threads I hope you can help me too. I have the Aritec CS250 with communications but do not need it and the problem I am having is that the panel on event log is seriously logging call test failed, line fault etc. I wish to disable the communications as I do not need it.
Can you advise
Cheers

You will need Engineer code. From there you delete all ARC Phone numbers & account numbers. Also set test call frequency to zero.

KoolKid

ebuy wrote: »

Helle, could someone please tell me how many wires are required to wire a HKC RPK and a bell box.
I have a 10 core cable going to my Garage and I'd like to be able to put two zones, a bell box and a RPK.

If anyone has a copy of or a link to the installation manuals for the SW812 that would be great.

You can do it as follows
+ to RKP + & SABB +
- to RKP - & SABB BHO
SABB - to SABB -
Internal - to Strobe -
Tamper return to Tamper return
RKP C to RKP C
RKP D to RKP D
You can do one zone on a pair or 2 zones using a common negetive for both.
An easier option would be to use ID sensors wire RKP + & - & wire the data back on a single cable
PM me your email & I'll send you engineer manual.

bryanbal wrote: »

Next question is on the quik bridge. I am wiring it into an aritech cs250. On quik bridge side the zone led lights up when i activate device and tamper light when i tamper it, so i think that side is ok. now when i wire to panel say 1 wire zone 7 to one leg in panel zone 7.i dont get correct responses when i check for open zones and tampers. whats the best way to wire it to panel and what loop settings should be on.
thanks again

Wire using duel 4k7 resistors in series (Giving 9k4) Wire the return cable to the 2 legs of the resistors & programme negitive to drop off on activation.
Hope that makes sense. I havn't time to put together a drawing.

bryanbal

koolkid wrote: »

Wire using duel 4k7 resistors in series (Giving 9k4) Wire the return cable to the 2 legs of the resistors & programme negitive to drop off on activation.
Hope that makes sense. I havn't time to put together a drawing.

i have one resistor leg in zone. the other leg is twisted onto resistor 2. resistor 2 second leg is connected onto wire from quik bridge zone. panel says im getting 9k4. so how do i program negative o drop and what loop type is it set at.

KoolKid

With the 2 legs twisted together connect the 2 single legs into each side of the zone. The zone (if programmed as dual) will see 9k4 & show tamper closed ,zone open. Wire the cable from the Quick Bridge onto the 2 legs that are twisted together. Let me explain whats happening here. The cable from the Quick Bridge is normally neg so the panel only see one resistor , registers 4k7 & the zone is closed. When the wireless device opens the neg drops off so the neg from the panel has to go across the 2 resistors & reads 9k4.
The panel then sees this as zone open.

bryanbal

koolkid wrote: »

With the 2 legs twisted together connect the 2 single legs into each side of the zone. The zone (if programmed as dual) will see 9k4 & show tamper closed ,zone open. Wire the cable from the Quick Bridge onto the 2 legs that are twisted together. Let me explain whats happening here. The cable from the Quick Bridge is normally neg so the panel only see one resistor , registers 4k7 & the zone is closed. When the wireless device opens the neg drops off so the neg from the panel has to go across the 2 resistors & reads 9k4.
The panel then sees this as zone open.

great stuff koolkid thats activated the alarm in zone test although tamper doesnt activate.Cheers for explaination.

Cadzer

koolkid wrote: »

An easier option would be to use ID sensors wire RKP + & - & wire the data back on a single cable
PM me your email & I'll send you engineer me

I would recommend wiring Point ID sensors on the same cable as the RKP. There will be cross talk from the RKP and you will get DEV COM FLTs on your point ID bus.

Depending on the panel 8/12 , 16,120 or the 10,70 you could use and expander in the garage which requires 4 wires. Loop the RKP from the expander . Use the zones on the expander and then use the dey relay out puts to fire the out side bell. This option can only be done on the 16/120 or the 10/70 as the 8/12 expander doent have relays on board.

KoolKid

I doubt that would be a problem. Ebuy can you post what type of cable the 10 core is.

altor

bryanbal wrote: »

Next question is on the quik bridge. I am wiring it into an aritech cs250. On quik bridge side the zone led lights up when i activate device and tamper light when i tamper it, so i think that side is ok. now when i wire to panel say 1 wire zone 7 to one leg in panel zone 7.i dont get correct responses when i check for open zones and tampers. whats the best way to wire it to panel and what loop settings should be on.
thanks again

It would of being easier to buy the receiver for the CS250. You can either get a 8 or 16 zone receiver plus you can still use the 8 hard wired zones on the panel.