So... The brick layer used normal blocks instead of Quinn Light ones.

unclebill98

Its the ground floor over a basement....

Been told by the basement man that this is a big big no no and can result in the basement roof falling in on its self...

Is'nt building a house great fun :rolleyes:

In 8 hours i'll be informing the bricky of this.. Wonder how he will take it.

As for the engineer, maybe one day he'll visit.

So, is this a big no no as i've been told?

Oh, and i've 2 large bubbles full of water in my tanking.... great... Thought i'd share this with you all.

We all have days like that, but think about the end result - it'll be worth it!

Slig

Engineer or floor slab manufacturer needs to see it really, put the pressure on!!
Did you put you tanking membrane on the inside? who thought up that detail?

sydthebeat

direct labour house by any chance?

Martron

the quinn lites have a higher compressive strenght. but always take things with a pinch of salt. a lot of these things were over designed. so you could be fine

kkelliher

the very fact quinn lites were speced would emply there are load issues and bad ground so you should impell your engineer to have a look / work out the loadings and see if it will be ok. PS Wuinn lites are a disaster when it comes to plastering and trying to get anything to hang on them.

Tanking internally in basements is a disaster, you should have used volclay or grace product to the external of the basement with a waterbar at kicker level in your basement walls. The best solution with water is to keep it out fully. With internal tanking your letting it in and then asking it to leave not a great system.

sas

Martron wrote: »

the quinn lites have a higher compressive strenght

What's the typical compressive strength of a regular block?

I assume the OPs block layer was supposed to use Quinnlite B7s.

Slig

I would assume that the quinnlites were for the internal walls on top of the concrete slab where they wouldnt be supported below.
Ditto on the Volclay or Grace but for the sake of it I always spec 2 waterbars as allegedly the perimeter one doesnt work. Very tricky details at joint between floor and walls and the proprietary drainage/protection boards can be expensive. Makes a lot more sense to keep the water out of the structure and allow the wall to act as a backing to resist water pressure. Sorry OP but hindsight is a killer

Martron

sas wrote: »

What's the typical compressive strength of a regular block?

I assume the OPs block layer was supposed to use Quinnlite B7s.

5kn. well thats kilsararn standard. As far as i rember from the last time i ordered blocks

Slig

Martron wrote: »

5kn. well thats kilsararn standard. As far as i rember from the last time i ordered blocks

I remember it being 7Kn I think

Martron

its 5kn for def and the quinns are 7kn i think

sas

Martron wrote: »

its 5kn for def and the quinns are 7kn i think

Quinns come in 3, 5 and 7 kn.

unclebill98

Hi everyone.

THe tanking is on the outside. Grace Butene 8000. I think its just a case of it coming off in a certain part. Not sure where people got the idea i did it on the inside. A hole has appeared in one place causing the water bubble and the other part seems to have pealed back from the overlay and this caused the 2nd. My OP was after about 4 hours of crap...

Its not direct labour. 1 contractor for the basement and another for the house.

The Quinn lite was for internal ground floor walls that are not supported below. The Slabs have had factored stress lines done on them and I was told thats why its important to have the quinnlite blocks.

Last i heard today was there thinking its ok and the slab manufactor is checking loads etc.

Not sure about the type of block that was meant to be used, I'll check after i get some sleep if thats ok.. I'm only home.

So as it stands the builder is waiting to hear if the engineer can get the slab maker to confirm the loads are ok, if not its coming down and started again with quinnlite.

The tanking man is coming tomorrow to fix the two "punctures" as he put it.

As for the 2nd post... I really hope so.

Sleep first and some more answers in a bit.

Thanks guys

unclebill98

100 Quinlite block |5N/mm2| wall.

Thats whats on the plans.

Also, sorry, i've to correct something i said above. EAch quinnlite wall has a unfactored line load of 4kn to 9kn to 12.5 depending on where it is. These loads where given to the slab maker for construction of the slabs!

kkelliher

did your tanking man use the bithuthene protection board along with the 8000. As the area is going to be backfilled Grace have a protection board which goes over the 8000 to give a better solid finish and protect the 8000 from the backfill.

Slig

.............and Dow systems do a drainage AND protection board which also insulates:D

unclebill98

kkelliher wrote: »

did your tanking man use the bithuthene protection board along with the 8000. As the area is going to be backfilled Grace have a protection board which goes over the 8000 to give a better solid finish and protect the 8000 from the backfill.

Hi, nope we did not use there board. We used another board and I was there to make sure every bit was covered and duct'd taped to insure it did not move. The man on the digger does basements everyday and well, it looked like the boards held up and are ok.

Slig wrote: »

.............and Dow systems do a drainage AND protection board which also insulates:D

Update for ya all.

The slab maker confirmed that the additional loads on the slabs will be grand and that he can continue with the bricks as normal. So far its not fallen down and they've finished bricking up the rest of the ground floor. So there onto the roof detail etc.

So was all the worry for nothing??

As for the tanking, i am still waiting on the installer to come out and fix the damaged parts. There is more fill to add so I've to get more boards to protect it during back fill. I am also going to make sure I am there when its being done.

Anyone any idea of how you know if the tanking is ok? Is it a case of finishing the house and plastering the rooms and then when your sitting there you see the water dripping in :eek:

Or, should the basement walls stop getting wet when the windows are in and the heating turned on??? I'd hate to have to dig up all the drive to get at damaged part. I am sure any digger work that has to do that will result in damaging it anyways.