Buffing

biko

I need to buff/wax my car. Used to be red and is now a lovely shade of pink Any suggestions where I can get this done or if anyone has the power tools needed and could help me out? I rather use electricity than elbow grease

2 Espressi

biko wrote: »

I need to buff/wax my car. Used to be red and is now a lovely shade of pink Any suggestions where I can get this done or if anyone has the power tools needed and could help me out? I rather use electricity than elbow grease

check out detailer.ie

The Gambler 101

dont be so lazy and polish it yourself and save your self a few pound! get the auto gylm for red coloured cars, wash, dry and polish! you wont know your car after!

Eoin

biko wrote: »

I need to buff/wax my car. Used to be red and is now a lovely shade of pink Any suggestions where I can get this done or if anyone has the power tools needed and could help me out? I rather use electricity than elbow grease

"Galway forum tbh"

Sorry, but it had to be said.

@The Gambler 101 - detailer.ie do paint corrections, so even if you're really into valeting the car yourself, it can still be worth getting them to look after your paintwork. Edit - I am not 100% sure, but I think I saw a porter cable for sale a while ago on adverts - could be a good investment.

TomMc

If you haven't used a buffer before don't bother. Too much of a learning curve to do it properly first time out. To have it done properly by a pro would cost e300 or e400. Most valetors would charge half or a third of that, but you generally only get what you pay for.

Otherwise as a DIY project, and If you do not want to rub your arms off either, go for a chemical cleaner sealant like Gollit or Carlack rather than an abrasive polish. These are much more liquidy so spread out and buff off that bit easier. Will remove the layers of oxidised (pink) paint best of all (much better than T-Cut or Autoglym SRP which can be very chalky if overapplied) and won't abrade away any of the sound paint underneath. If you do a comprehensive job removing all the oxidation and then sealing the paint great, otherwise if you go for the quick fix solution you will only get shorter term results as the pink will come back all too quickly again. Older red paints are the worst colour for this so need the most care and UV protection. Claying the paint first would also be a good idea.

biko

What I'm thinking is to wash it thoroughly, chamois it dry, clay it, apply t-cut and buff. Then wax. I just need a power buffer.

Is autoglym as good as t-cut?

alpina

If have no experience with a buffer, stay well away..spend your money on the autoglym range & take a day out to concentrate solely on the car, preferably dry/overcast. This way you'll have a spotless shiny car & the product to do it again, much more rewarding than handing over couple of hundred to the detailers...;)

TomMc

biko wrote: »

What I'm thinking is to wash it thoroughly, chamois it dry, clay it, apply t-cut and buff. Then wax. I just need a power buffer.

Is autoglym as good as t-cut?

Anything is better than T-Cut. It may remove the oxidation but relative to other products out there, it is old world technology, the gloss will be pretty average at best. It also leaves no protection whatsoever.

Autoglym SRP is milder, it uses chalk as the abrasive. Needs to be used sparingly and worked in really well to small areas at a time, to get the best results. Lots of elbow grease required so not exactly a breeze in the park. Overall it will leave a better look than T-Cut. If you want to do things without spending very much, then it is the better option. But you do need to remove all that oxidation right down into the paints pores and not just what is on the top surface (it is not visible to the naked eye), to avoid the pink reoccuring in a few months time. If you do this I would also seal in the SRP with a coat of their Extra Gloss Protection, with a 2nd coat applied the next day. It is hard work but worth the effort.

The other stuff I mentioned before is far more suitable to get the job done properly with the minimum of fuss. They have UV filters built into the mix to further shield against sun damage & fading, which most generic stuff does not. You can wax afterwards if you like, but it is not essential. Otherwise just use the one product to look after the paint just like a polish or a wax, by applying every 3 or 4 months.