Cheapest towbars in Dublin?

murphaph

Hello chaps,
As the title says....where might I find the cheapest towbar supply and fit in Dublin or should I go the internet route and fit myself?

Thoughts please

(98 VW Passat FWIW)

Steve

If you want the *cheapest* then ring around the breakers yards and fit it yourself.

Do you particularly need a brand new one?

Ferris

murphaph wrote: »

Hello chaps,
As the title says....where might I find the cheapest towbar supply and fit in Dublin or should I go the internet route and fit myself?

Thoughts please

(98 VW Passat FWIW)

I fitted one myself to a mk4 golf. Pretty easy, especially as you can download instructions. You'll need a torque wrench and a wiring diagram of your car (haynes manual) so you can tell what wires feed what lights etc.

worded

If I may jump on this thread ....

I might go the breakers route as well, whats a fair price?
are there a lot of variations of them for an Audi a4?

Traynors is the biggest - but in norn iron - 00442838891242

Ferris

I paid £40, which I thought was steep for an old towbar. Was up north too.

worded

murphaph wrote: »

Hello chaps,
As the title says....where might I find the cheapest towbar supply and fit in Dublin or should I go the internet route and fit myself?

Thoughts please

(98 VW Passat FWIW)

Perhaps we could do a toss for who goes up north to collect one for yours and one for mine (I will toss coin and post results if you PM me your heads / harps choice)


Seriously - PM me what part of Dublin you are in, perhaps we can arrange a joint fitting and or purchase from a place?

I got southern quote of circa 450 (new and fit) and I cant afford that, so could be an option to get in scrap yard somewhere

worded

Just called Traynors - new: (forgot to ask about second hand ones / I fear they might not be 100% safe if rear ended in a crash)

For me a4 - 75+ vat + 10 + VAT for electrics - new
VW Passat 69 + 10 + VAT for electrics - new

No charge for shipping.

I think that a competitive price.

Ferris

What I did on a Mk4 golf:

1. Jacked up the car, on axle stands
2. Removed rear wheels.
3. Removed rear bumper.
4. Removed rear inner arches and liners.
5. I think I removed the rear light clusters.
6. Removed plastic boot sill and side panels.
7. Removed rear crash beam.
8. This reveals two box section chassis rails, the towbar frame has two box section forks that slot into the chassis rails.
9. There are two holes in the chassis rails. These are concealed by stickers that are painted over with underseal. You have to remove these.
10. There are bolts that go through the holes in the chassis rail and screw into the towbar frame. These need to be tightened to a specified torque.
11. I covered over the bolts with hammerite to maintain rust proofing. Underseal would have been better but I didn't have any.
12. I ran the socket wires into the boot through a rubber grommet in the boot floor.
13. I offered the bumper up to the car (over the towbar) and marked where I would have to cut the bumper. Measure twice and cut once here!
14. I cut the bumper with a fine fretsaw. I took care that the rough edge caused by cutting was to the inside.
15. I knew what wires were what for the socket, I had to find out what wires were what on the cars wiring to the rear lights. I used a haynes manual.
16. I used simple push connectors to connect the socket wiring into the loom. Have loads of elec tape or shrink wrap to make a neat job here. The connectors are available out of a towing supplies shop, theres one in santry, Furry Park Ind est.
17. I tested the operation on a trailer light board, when all was well I put the car back together.
18. The instructions said to retorque the mounting bolts after 1000miles of towing. I did it a good while later when the car was up on a lift as you don't have to strip the back off the car to get to the mounting bolts, just bend the inner liner out of the way.