Bora 150 TDI Remap? Gud or Bad Idea???

damo150

Well everyone,
Only after joining this site. Seems gud..
I ave a vw Bora 150 TDI. I really like the car. When i bought the car it had factory 16" alloy. I am after fitting 18" RS6. They are after really improving the handling but they are after taking a couple of ponies from under the bonnet. Still has lots of power though, can keep with v-tec civic. I am thinking of getting it remapped. With a propper job should it should be up around 200Bhp. Has anyone got this done?? Gud or bad job?? Will Engine, Flywheel, gearbox be able ot stick the power???
Cheers;)

Marcus.Aurelius

Power may be a bit much for the transmission etc., not to mention your insurance will go up once they hear about it. They can check the last update of the software, or read it if neccessary after a bang. Seems popular at the moment with TDis.

If your car is still under warranty it could be voided by this procedure.

cabrwab

After dodgey experience of the VAG gearbox and it barely able to handle the norml TDI engine, i wouldnt trust a remap!
It is really popular to be doing this as the admiral has stated. The wheels would be rather large on that car, so them alone could do a bit of wear to the clutch.

Best of luck with whatever you do.

Slidey

I have a 150 golf and have heard of other 150's being remapped.

My mate did a remap on a 6month old car and the clutch started to slip straight away
Every other remap or tuning box Ive heard of so far has suffered slipping clutch.

It also makes them quite smokie.

IMO 150 is loads..

Atomic Pineapple

slideways wrote: »

IMO 150 is loads..

correct, if you want more power buy a car that was designed to cope with it

budweiserfrogie

slideways wrote: »

I have a 150 golf and have heard of other 150's being remapped.


It also makes them quite smokie.

IMO 150 is loads..

I'd agree about the smoke if you get it done by 1 of the many cowboys who don't fully understand how to properly remap an engine.
But properly done you should have more power, more torque, better mpg and no extra smoke.
In some cases as with my 2002 bmw 530d my smoke output was far less than was before i had it done.
Having 96000 miles on my car it was a little bit smokey under full throttle. I would nearly go as far as saying the smoke was gone after the remap.
From my experience and others i know of, i can recommend Joe from chippedirl
http://www.chippedire.com/
Phone +353 87 9113843
I'll be going back to him next time i change my car for sure.
Good Job by a guy who knows what he's doing.:D
And not overpriced.

Slidey

budweiserfrogie wrote: »

I'd agree about the smoke if you get it done by 1 of the many cowboys who don't fully understand how to properly remap an engine.
But properly done you should have more power, more torque, better mpg and no extra smoke.
In some cases as with my 2002 bmw 530d my smoke output was far less than was before i had it done.
Having 96000 miles on my car it was a little bit smokey under full throttle. I would nearly go as far as saying the smoke was gone after the remap.
From my experience and others i know of, i can recommend Joe from chippedirl
http://www.chippedire.com/
Phone +353 87 9113843
I'll be going back to him next time i change my car for sure.
Good Job by a guy who knows what he's doing.:D
And not overpriced.

Well my mate had it remapped by a guy round Mullingar, back in 04, it wasn't too bad smoke wise and when the clutch fcuked up and he was getting it done under warranty apparently they knew something had been done but couldnt find or prove what.

Still leaves the prob of the weak clutches

budweiserfrogie

Damo150 you say you want 200bhp. I'd agree with all the responces about clutch problems and smoke, if a remap company pushes your car to 175bhp aprox i'd see that as pretty realistic. But don't listen to any offers of 200 from just a remap as you will see loads of smoke and smell loads of clutch burning.
A 200bhp output would need some mechanical work also, ie turbo, intercooler and intake modifications, and to put this power to the wheels you would also have to upgrade the clutch.
It's easy get more power, but it needs to be done correctly to be reliable.

maidhc

Is the 150 not close to the limits of the TDI engine anyway? My understanding is the 150 is by far the least reliable 1.9TDI already, a remap is either going to be ineffectual or make the engine more unreliable and less drivable.

IMO you should have left the original allays and saved your money for a 330d or something more worthwhile in a few years.

frag4

My brother had a gt 150 golf and used a tuning box to getit up to about 190 , it was brilliant until it wrecked 2nd gear twice!!
Mind u them 150 gt's are furture classic's .

pburns

maidhc wrote: »

Is the 150 not close to the limits of the TDI engine anyway? My understanding is the 150 is by far the least reliable 1.9TDI already, a remap is either going to be ineffectual or make the engine more unreliable and less drivable.

IMO you should have left the original allays and saved your money for a 330d or something more worthwhile in a few years.

I thought from your post title that you were thinking of remapping your 1.9TDI UP TO 150bhp... Not fron 150bhp up to 200! I have no first-hand experience of remapping these TDIs but it sounds like a recipie for trouble. I think you kinda know that yourself (deep down!)

Also, I find it hard to believe that 18''ers will improve the handling. Maybe on pool-table smooth roads you have a bit more grip but overall ride/handling can only disimprove with an increase in rim size and lower-profile tyres...

bazz26

Nobody seems to have mentioned that to upgrade to near 200bhp you also need to upgrade the suspension, brakes, etc to cope with the extra power (if this is conceivable from a simple remap). The extra stress on the engine, clutch and gearbox would soon tell. Also the last time I checked the fwd Bora wasn't exactly a great handling car in standard form so one with close to 200bhp is inevidably going to end up on the wrong side a ditch imo.

OP if you really want a 200bhp car I recommend you look at buying one that was designed with it in mind.

Bearcat

Dont do it...I'd a 150tdi golf...I chipped her with a tuning box and jeez it nearly killed me....the chassis is not set up for it. The power band is very limited.

Also you'll burn your clutch and evaporate your gearbox.

Enjoy the bora for what she is. The bigger the capacity the engine the better the chip will work. I've chipped a 4.2 landcruiser and it works a treat, likewise an e220 cdi...also works well.

www.tuningbox.co.uk imo are the best boxes. Remapping your ecu is not a good idea for me as your cant walk away from the car, where as with the tuning box, its clip in/out.

For that 1.9 8v diesel she's maxed at 150....leave it.

Slidey

Its not an 8v.. and the tuning boxes are a sh1te compromise.

You get what you pay for, if it was that easy why would people bother re-mapping

E92

The VAG 1.9 TDI always has been in its 15 year existence and still is an 8 valve engine. The only 16 valve diesels from VAG are the newer 2.0 TDI PD and the brand new common rail 2.0 TDI.

150 bhp from an ancient 1.9 TDI is quite an achievement it must be said(though I suspect that the 150 has a serious amount of turbo lag, the 100 bhp unit definately has far from the most linear power delivery ever found but then again nothing beats petrol for a progressive power delivery). VAG felt the most it could do was 160 bhp in the Seat Ibiza Cupra, and if VAG thought it could do more then they would have sold it with more than that.

Slidey

/removes foot from mouth/
*ahem* I stand corrrected so...

tossy

RIght,where does one start......

Firstly for pig iron i would put your bora on a dyno in current form and i will wager it is putting out at least 170bhp as is(providing its a well minded and regularly serviced car),i will back up thsi wager too lets say 20 euros?

Ive seen numerous 150 golfs dyno'd and 170 was the lowest ive seen with around 178 being the highest,this is a common trait amongst "the ancient" vag TDI's.

Remap is the only way to go,and i would recommend joe power from chipped ire also,your engine block,turbo etc will easily handle 200bhp - EASILY!

I know of a 130Pd golf putting out 224 odd bhp for the last 200,000 miles with not an ounce of trouble,not a drop of oil burned,he of course uprated the clutch,intercooler turbo and injectors but it gives you some example of the scope of these pre historic TDI engine blocks.

The clutch is a total unknown,how many miles are currently on the car? (sorry if you already stated this) and how was the car driven before you bought it (who knows!) changes are if you car has high mileage then the remap will acclerate the wear on your clutch and it will start slipping,i know of one guy with a remapped bora ( 150pd upto 200 ) in this country and he got some clutch slip,he went shopping for a sachs uprated clutch,havent spoken to him in a while so i don't know how he got on,i know of another guy who got his 150 golf remapped a few months ago and he has had no clutch slippage what so ever!!

So basically the olny way to find out is to do it,i would recommend doing it,if you go with a reputable mapper it can be reversed just as easily if you don't like it.

Tuning boxes! DO NOT go near a tuning box,i used one on an old golf and it left me with a thirsty ECU and a faulty temp send sensor,not big problems but that was the sum total of its worth.a remap is the way to go it fine tunes every parameter that needs to be fine tuned such as boost,timing,injection rates etc.

The not so fun bit - remember your car is a FWD drive car and is already coping with putting down serious amounts of torque through the 2 front wheels,when remapped it will be impossible to floor it in first or second gear and if its wet then forget about it,id imagine you are already having alot of trouble in the wet as is.

I hope i covered everything?

As for your car give us some details about it? did you buy it recently? if so was it a black one for sale on carzone? im a bora driver my self(albeit petrol) and that black one was the closest spec to my own ive seen for sale either here or in the UK for a long time.

Ferris

+1

Tossy is right about most of the VAG engines being underrated. Also I'd say that a lot of the clutch and gearbox failures are more down to driver than the remap. Like the guy who disintegrated his 2nd gear ffs.

If you are going to uprate the car generally along with this remap remember to uprate the brakes and tyres too, you'll need them. The ideal setup would have an uprated clutch and LSD too but thats £££.

One other problem on the pd150 is accelerated camshaft and hydraulic tappet wear. This is caused by using incorrect oil. Also changing the oil every 7k would help.

Otherwise i'd say go for it.

Bearcat

slideways wrote: »

Its not an 8v.. and the tuning boxes are a sh1te compromise.

You get what you pay for, if it was that easy why would people bother re-mapping

now mr know all, since when did the 1.9tdi engine grow 16v's? The 140bhp versions at 2.0 litres carry 16v. I stand to be corrected but I had a 03 golf tdi 150 and she had 8 valves.

I have two diesels a LC and a merc with tunits and it is perfect......i beg to differ on remaps and the right plug in your own beautiful words is not sh!te.


there's always one.....

Slidey

Bearcat wrote: »

now mr know all, since when did the 1.9tdi engine grow 16v's? The 140bhp versions at 2.0 litres carry 16v. I stand to be corrected but I had a 03 golf tdi 150 and she had 8 valves.

I have two diesels a LC and a merc with tunits and it is perfect......i beg to differ on remaps and the right plug in your own beautiful words is not sh!te.


there's always one.....

Yes i have already been corrected on that point, hadnt had a good look at them but thought the head looked very wide at the top for an 8v...

Bearcat

ok we are pals again!! just for info, I had a few few tuning boxes in my day, some are pure crap and the one above is a beaut. The dastek I had on a TD5 defender and it was lethal.

Dont write off the plug ins.....the e220 cdi we use, the difference in mid range punch is amazing......

Back to our Bora fella.....i think the 150 is hurtin as she is re output..

Slidey

Bearcat wrote: »

ok we are pals again!! just for info, I had a few few tuning boxes in my day, some are pure crap and the one above is a beaut. The dastek I had on a TD5 defender and it was lethal.

Dont write off the plug ins.....the e220 cdi we use, the difference in mid range punch is amazing......

Back to our Bora fella.....i think the 150 is hurtin as she is re output..

Well after all the chat on here about lag i did a few tests least night in the 150 i have.

The only time I found anything close to lag was from 55 in 6th, which had it about 18/1900 rpm. If you have lag, drop a gear.

For a diesel i think they are fantastic. Can get 60mpg on a long run to dublin and even though i shoe it on, have averaged 48 over the last 4000 miles, according to the trip comp.

Have a 16v gti (90 mk2) and it would piss all over it, everyday of the week

Ferris

Depends on the tuning box, some actually digitally alter the signals going to the ecu and these I have been told are quite good. Because its digital allowances can be made for air temp, fuel condition etc.

The other (analogue) type is simply a resistor that fools the ecu into thinking the air temp is colder than it actually is. This causes the ecu to pump more fuel into the engine resulting in more power. Also it usually puts all the power in one narrow power band and these is loads of smoke. Because the amount of fuel isn't precise it can lead to burnt pistons in the long run due to high cylinder temperatures.

Dirty_Diesel

I had a B5.5 PD130 Passat that I got remapped by Ed from www.turbotech.ie. I'm not quiet sure what the final power was but I estimate 175bhp & 350ft/lbs. My friends PD130 was RR'd @ 142bhp standard.

You will have no problems with the clutch as long as you dont floor it below 2,000rpm in 4th/5th/6th (as Ed told me) or the torque will wreck the clutch. My brother bought the car off me and did not heed my advise. 1 month later the clutch was gone.

Contrary to what was posted earlier, no VAG dealer can spot a proper remap.

To the OP, go for a remap. With the esp program your car can handle the power no problem.

dizzydiesel

tossy wrote: »

The not so fun bit - remember your car is a FWD drive car and is already coping with putting down serious amounts of torque through the 2 front wheels,when remapped it will be impossible to floor it in first or second gear and if its wet then forget about it,id imagine you are already having alot of trouble in the wet as is.

True......the traction control light will illuminate your dashboard all day. 1st and 2nd gear can't cope with the torque.....and even 3rd gear in the wet.

If you don't have traction control, you'll burn out your tyres in double quick time:(

Tuning box is smokey and a bit rough. MPG goes down. Re-map sounds more professional.

craichoe

Ferris wrote: »

Depends on the tuning box, some actually digitally alter the signals going to the ecu and these I have been told are quite good. Because its digital allowances can be made for air temp, fuel condition etc.

The other (analogue) type is simply a resistor that fools the ecu into thinking the air temp is colder than it actually is. This causes the ecu to pump more fuel into the engine resulting in more power. Also it usually puts all the power in one narrow power band and these is loads of smoke. Because the amount of fuel isn't precise it can lead to burnt pistons in the long run due to high cylinder temperatures.

Tuning boxes suck, period. a Remap is far better as it can be customised to the exact model of vehicle and condition of the engine. A span new engine may not be in the same nick as an engine with 100k on it.

The ECU is mapped to deliver power, fooling it into thinking sensors are giving false readings is generally just a temporary workaround.

voxpop

With a remap - I know the clutch becomes the weak point, but once you upgrade the clutch (Sachs or whatever), does the gearbox then become a weak link ?

Ferris

voxpop wrote: »

With a remap - I know the clutch becomes the weak point, but once you upgrade the clutch (Sachs or whatever), does the gearbox then become a weak link ?

Its more down to driver behaviour. No clutch will cope with all of the power for all of the time. Likewise with a gearbox, slamming it into 2nd while racing civics will ultimately wreck the synchromesh cone for that gear.

As someone said, not flooring it in 2nd below a certain (2000?) rpm will help. My experience with tdi's is that you wont have traction if you do that anyway.

voxpop

So are you likely to be able to uses the power after a remap ?

Ferris

voxpop wrote: »

So are you likely to be able to uses the power after a remap ?

Yep, all they way. It will make more power available through the rev band. Mostly the big difference is in the torque output of the engine. It will make overtaking even more of a breeze. Accelerating, especially out of a corner in 2nd or 3rd, will be completely different. Also your car would be able to take higher gears at lower revs so economy can be improved.

Actually driving a properly chipped diesel car responsibly will usually result in a higher MPG figure. The remap can be tuned toward efficiency too.

voxpop

Ferris wrote: »

Yep, all they way. It will make more power available through the rev band. Mostly the big difference is in the torque output of the engine. It will make overtaking even more of a breeze. Accelerating, especially out of a corner in 2nd or 3rd, will be completely different. Also your car would be able to take higher gears at lower revs so economy can be improved.

Actually driving a properly chipped diesel car responsibly will usually result in a higher MPG figure. The remap can be tuned toward efficiency too.

I gotta say Ive been pretty tempted to get remap ever since I got the car, virtually everyone that has gotten a good remap has raved about it - frying the clutch is the only major thing putting me off. Plus I know Id trash the car for the first week or two

Ferris

voxpop wrote: »

I gotta say Ive been pretty tempted to get remap ever since I got the car, virtually everyone that has gotten a good remap has raved about it - frying the clutch is the only major thing putting me off. Plus I know Id trash the car for the first week or two

To be expected really!

I've driven a couple of golfs that have had it done. I also had a tuning box for my old 110tdi which while being very crude, was very effective. It seems tho that the quality remaps are the way to go.

These guys are recommended quite often on boards:

http://www.chippedire.com/

voxpop

Ferris wrote: »

These guys are recommended quite often on boards:

http://www.chippedire.com/

Yeah Joe seems to be the man for remaps alright - he has a specific board over on vagdrivers. Have heard nothing but good stories about him and his remaps.

Still at the back of my mind is the "if it aint broke dont fix it". Car runs perfectly now (110k on the clock) - dont want to upset it

Ferris

voxpop wrote: »

Still at the back of my mind is the "if it aint broke dont fix it". Car runs perfectly now (110k on the clock) - dont want to upset it

Main faults on a PD diesel are Turbo Failure, DM Flywheel failure and worn tappets. None of these can be directly influenced by fueling (remapping). Just keep your car well maintained and feed it the correct VW recommended fully synthetic oil and it should be fine.

maidhc

Ferris wrote: »

Main faults on a PD diesel are Turbo Failure, DM Flywheel failure and worn tappets. None of these can be directly influenced by fueling (remapping). Just keep your car well maintained and feed it the correct VW recommended fully synthetic oil and it should be fine.

Well you can't burn more fuel unless you induce more air and thus make the turbo work harder. The DMF is more likely to fail when it is repeatedly subjected to compression. Both of these things will happen if you increase fueling and consequently power.

Ferris

maidhc wrote: »

Well you can't burn more fuel unless you induce more air and thus make the turbo work harder. The DMF is more likely to fail when it is repeatedly subjected to compression. Both of these things will happen if you increase fueling and consequently power.

The turbo shaft is suspended in an oil seal under oil pressure, its called a fluid bearing. When the turbo has oil pressure the bearing is frictionless so a higher rpm will not affect it. What does have an effect is the higher temp from the exhaust, this can affect the engine oil (separation) and fully synthetic oil withstands this best which is why I mentioned it.

Just looked up DMFs and they are matched to the torque curve of the engine so oop's. Still they seem to go in any PD engine, not just chipped ones. They failed when they were brand new ffs.

maidhc

Ferris wrote: »

The turbo shaft is suspended in an oil seal under oil pressure, its called a fluid bearing. When the turbo has oil pressure the bearing is frictionless so a higher rpm will not affect it. What does have an effect is the higher temp from the exhaust, this can affect the engine oil (separation) and fully synthetic oil withstands this best which is why I mentioned it.

So you are saying you can substantially increase the load on the turbo by higher rpm (or is more likely the case) adjusting the variable vanes from manufacturer spec and NOT suffer an increased failure rate? Funny, I just don't believe that.

Ferris wrote: »

Just looked up DMFs and they are matched to the torque curve of the engine so oop's. Still they seem to go in any PD engine, not just chipped ones. They failed when they were brand new ffs.

Ever see a DMF? Basically it two flywheels both connected together with a spring. They do fail, a lot, and on every model. The biggest reason the fail from my understanding is from stalling the car and the spring repeatedly going from maximum to minimum compression. If you drive smoothly, the flywheel should last forever as it is doing very little, if you are contantly dogging through the gears, or even driving with a greater torque output than spec you can ONLY cause the flywheel to work harder, and thus increase the liklihood of failure.

All this may be academic if you had a car like the 105bhp TDI, as there are big overheads to play with. In the 150, your tolerances are quite tight to begin with

Ferris

maidhc wrote: »

So you are saying you can substantially increase the load on the turbo by higher rpm (or is more likely the case) adjusting the variable vanes from manufacturer spec and NOT suffer an increased failure rate? Funny, I just don't believe that.

Fact is that turbos fail for all sorts of reasons, most prevalent reasons are running them hard while the engine is cold and hasn't built up oil pressure, turning a roasting hot engine off without letting the oil cool the turbo a bit and using old oil. Margainly increasing the rpm over a frictionless bearing is a lot less harmful then these three scenarios.

Fair enough on the DMF failures, if they are matched to a torque curve then a remap will change the dynamics of that curve so the flywheel will have more load on it. Where the extra torque comes in however is up in the rev range so I don't know if the DMF would suffer any extra 'shock' loading. I suppose its down to how the car is driven too. Either way I'd be surprised if remapped cars suffer significantly higher failure rates when compared to unmodified cars.

omega man

I remapped my old Leon TDI150 a few years back with no problems at all. When i bought it there was a power box fitted (200 bhp per sales guy) which i promtly removed due to serious smoke. I got a proper remap (not chipped) which brought it to about 180/185. Fantastic torque and a noticable difference to the stock 150. In saying that its nothing compared to a good performance petrol. Go for it and i would recommend informing the insurance company. Believe it or not but at the time my insurance company said they did not differentiate between the 90/110/130 & 150 model! (performance wise).

damo150

tossy wrote: »

RIght,where does one start......

Firstly for pig iron i would put your bora on a dyno in current form and i will wager it is putting out at least 170bhp as is(providing its a well minded and regularly serviced car),i will back up thsi wager too lets say 20 euros?

Ive seen numerous 150 golfs dyno'd and 170 was the lowest ive seen with around 178 being the highest,this is a common trait amongst "the ancient" vag TDI's.

Remap is the only way to go,and i would recommend joe power from chipped ire also,your engine block,turbo etc will easily handle 200bhp - EASILY!

I know of a 130Pd golf putting out 224 odd bhp for the last 200,000 miles with not an ounce of trouble,not a drop of oil burned,he of course uprated the clutch,intercooler turbo and injectors but it gives you some example of the scope of these pre historic TDI engine blocks.

The clutch is a total unknown,how many miles are currently on the car? (sorry if you already stated this) and how was the car driven before you bought it (who knows!) changes are if you car has high mileage then the remap will acclerate the wear on your clutch and it will start slipping,i know of one guy with a remapped bora ( 150pd upto 200 ) in this country and he got some clutch slip,he went shopping for a sachs uprated clutch,havent spoken to him in a while so i don't know how he got on,i know of another guy who got his 150 golf remapped a few months ago and he has had no clutch slippage what so ever!!

So basically the olny way to find out is to do it,i would recommend doing it,if you go with a reputable mapper it can be reversed just as easily if you don't like it.

Tuning boxes! DO NOT go near a tuning box,i used one on an old golf and it left me with a thirsty ECU and a faulty temp send sensor,not big problems but that was the sum total of its worth.a remap is the way to go it fine tunes every parameter that needs to be fine tuned such as boost,timing,injection rates etc.

The not so fun bit - remember your car is a FWD drive car and is already coping with putting down serious amounts of torque through the 2 front wheels,when remapped it will be impossible to floor it in first or second gear and if its wet then forget about it,id imagine you are already having alot of trouble in the wet as is.

I hope i covered everything?

As for your car give us some details about it? did you buy it recently? if so was it a black one for sale on carzone? im a bora driver my self(albeit petrol) and that black one was the closest spec to my own ive seen for sale either here or in the UK for a long time.

Tossy seems to b talking sense as like many of u. cheers 4 all the replys sorry took so long to get bac to ye had an internet problem.
The car has 105k miles on it, its 03, A full VW service history. i bought it bac in jan. the car is driving 100%. excrpt for faulty temp sensor causing it to run a little off when cold. after reading the posts i think i am going to remap it. Properly.... i know for a fact that most tuning boxes are a farse. nothing but smoke... going to save a bit of money, get the timing belt done and get her pluged in.
oh does anyone know bout getting timing belt done. a mechanic tells me that if u r doing the timing belt u must plug her into a computer to know how much to alter the timing. i thought that if u took the belt off of the teeth and lined her up straight putting it bac on u can't go wrong coz if ur a tooth out ur way out.

Slidey

damo150 wrote: »

oh does anyone know bout getting timing belt done. a mechanic tells me that if u r doing the timing belt u must plug her into a computer to know how much to alter the timing. i thought that if u took the belt off of the teeth and lined her up straight putting it bac on u can't go wrong coz if ur a tooth out ur way out.

Never heard of this.

Have done numerous vw diesel belts and have never needed a computer for it.

Most were the older injection pump type but did a pd engine in a Superb and just lined up the marks and it was fine..

tossy

whats the spec of it damo is it an irish car?

get the faulty temp sensor sorted while you are at it,only cost a few quid you will find your MPG might improve too.

get it remapped ffs

and dont be so selfish and do it for the environment too

I had my diesel remapped a few years ago and I got 28bhp more and more MPG

damo150

shes uk sport sec. nice car. do u work on cars dat u know bout dem on de dyno?

Slidey

damo150 wrote: »

shes uk sport sec. nice car. do u work on cars dat u know bout dem on de dyno?

No disrespect horse, but try and refrain from the txt spk.. its a bit hard on the eyes and makes baby Jesus cry...

tossy

damo150 wrote: »

shes uk sport sec. nice car. do u work on cars dat u know bout dem on de dyno?

No just a car nut and have alot of exp of VAG cars,im a bora driver myself 224 bhp and no remap yet

Bearcat

eh sideways...your the lad that told me the 150 is a 16v. your a brave man to reload on this thread.....

come back to us when yor puttin out 430bhp ou the rear end..:D

1988 930......the bad boy

Slidey

Ah sure we all make mistakes!

Ps if we want to have a pissing comp I have driven a turbo'd swede with rolling road 720 brake!

Bearcat

fairplay sideways....your straight up. putting the 930 upto 420 brake soon....the yanks have this one sussed....amazing intercoolers, better turbos.....with the dollar its a no brainer......cheers mate.

rccaulfield

Why,its a Bora??

Slidey

Bearcat wrote: »

fairplay sideways....your straight up. putting the 930 upto 420 brake soon....the yanks have this one sussed....amazing intercoolers, better turbos.....with the dollar its a no brainer......cheers mate.

I'll be honest, it was a chipped one of these V




Back on topic, was chatting a fella at the weekend and you can now get solid flywheel so that will get rid of that weak link in the chain