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New build questions? included this time

  • 23-07-2008 8:39pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 125 ✭✭


    Hi lads and ladies,

    I have a few questions in relation to a bungalow I'm hoping to build.

    Firstly I want to air my frustration that i cant seem to settle on really almost anything. From the build type ie block/ICF to heating system to window type.

    What i cant understand is that we all here are looking to build one thing in common. a house that can be well insulated, probably airtight, HRV probably installed (which is actually the only thing i can say i have decided on). we all want to heat our homes with the best most cost effective and efficient way. No 3 people has the same opinion, not even the professionals, 10 years ago it was, building a house? ya! oil or Turf? Oil,.....Turf

    So far after reading most of Construction & Planning threads and also after attending the Connaughts H&G exhib last week (crap, learned more here) My thoughts are

    Block Cavity rather than anything else, I ve always gone with the crowd. some expense with ICF which i liked initially.
    Insulate the External walls, What thickness, not sure, the more the better, Id nearly design the house bigger if i could get a foot of the stuff on the walls.
    The most efficient windows on the market, with lowest U-value, probable double glaze with argon and low-e coating,
    Big windows to my front which is south facing ( i can swing the house from south west facing to south and on to east facing, so have have about 90 deg to play with. Small windows to the back (north)
    HRV, if the house is airtight i think this is a must. seems to be a black and white system, you know the cost, you know what is does, and you can see the results and little complaints.but will the house be airtight???? will the builder look after my needs?? how do i know he has, im not a builder????
    ceiling insulation, again max, its a bungalow, so i will be having more the better attitude.
    As for heating, After going the full circle like many people here, i can only say that Oil stands out for me.
    Geo Therm, well the initial cost for no proven track record is more risky than buy 15 houses in Dublin today. UFH seems to be the only way with GT, I aint going for UFH, heard enough about that here, just search it. Also the talk i was at in the H&G expo mentioned many "which i could only interpret as excuses as to the faults of the system", everyone from manufacturer to installer to user to soil type to installer of the UFH to to to to, again way too many people been hung out to dry with so much money on the table and no definite answers, (imagine the Trouble Shooting Guide with this manual LOL)
    Wood Pellet. I was shocked at the initial cost of this. wasnt aware of it, but i am with its many problems, Manufacture blames installation, installation blames the pellets, the pellet people blames you for storing it incorrectly, im like hold on its 10-13K to get it in, I think there is too much passing the book, just like GT.
    Solar just heats water to my disappointment, I heard at the expo that its most efficient in good sunlight, I have the south facing but cant move clouds. Also heard that it has inefficiencies,. He was saying, if you have panels, your oil or gas or GT/AW will heat the water in the winter, so no need for Solar, and in the summer you may need to boost the water ( this summer was cold, we had heat on must days, ie water heated. As i keep telling people, show me a way to heat the house, and I can heat the water myself, the quantity of hot water wanted in a house depends on how you use it, Im a hop in and out of the shower Elect, Dishwasher looks after itself, likewise washing machine. 240 ltr tank? 310 as well did i hear? far from it i was raised!!!! lol
    I think Solar panels are good for what there intended for, but they dont do what I want, heat rads is my ambition. may have to use them as per 1st July Part L.
    Air to water, well just the complaints and problems people are having and the cost, Why do i keep thinking like "this is not a TV from Argus, like if it breaks bring it back, Its 10-15K and its permanently in once you have installed it, if it breaks its like Taxing an Audi Q7.
    sometimes i feel i wish i was building 10 years ago, little choice or building in 10years time, we would know more.

    question time!!!!!


    is due south the best point to face the house??? i want this correct.

    If I was insulating the External walls inside, how does the wiring to plugs and light switches affect this, I am aware of the old fashion chasing the wall, conduit, and plaster it up. surely you dont rip the Insulat boards?????

    is there something i should look out for when installing windows?? as in around the edge?? we can deal with window suppliers on window issues, but i understand that there can be draughs around edges.

    I have trust issues? I want the building airtight, how do i know I can trust builders to give me what i want rather than whats easy for them to build????

    I will be having open fires, cant!!! I cant live without them. But i read that i should try and close them off when not in use, is this possibe????

    I am building a bungalow 2900Sqf approx, I was thinking of firstly insulating the attick, as if i was closing the it off, then i would floor the attic, followed by insulate the roof rafters. the thinking behind this is that, 1. there will be huge attic space 2 It would come in handy maybe as storage, games room, play area, throw a tv and a couch up there for kids ( I am putting in a closed off stairs) 3. any heat that would get though the ceiling then would hold in the attic space itself. I would plumb this for future conversion if needed. Whats your thoughts??? I will be also fitting a good few Velux windows.

    but will the house be airtight???? will the builder look after my needs?? how do i know he has??, im not a builder????


    I think thats it for now, sorry if its long, but i think its what we all have gone through, id appreciate comments.

    Mr LNB


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,072 ✭✭✭sunnysoutheast


    To answer your questions:
    - engage suitably-qualified professionals
    - over-insulate
    - air tightness is paramount
    - keep an eye on build quality onsite
    - trades prices have come down a bit but materials are up
    - jury's out on heat pumps

    any more?

    :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,569 ✭✭✭Builderfromhell


    Concur with Sunnysoutheast.
    Engage professional Architect or Engineer. Someone who has already adressed all these questions.
    Why try to figure it all out yourself??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    snap


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,292 ✭✭✭RKQ


    I agree with above,each to their own regarding heat pumps.
    Insulate, insulate, insulate.

    A European timber frame bungalow can be easier to get airtight as opposed to blockwork. Airtight construction is standard in Germany & Switzerland, so check out their (time proven) systems.

    I have a heat pump, its the only way to go for UFH. It does need back up in really cold winter, so a wood stove is recommended. (Oil UFH must be getting very expensive)
    Best thing about a heat pump - even heat all over room, no fuel deliveries or fuel storage, no cleaning out etc.

    Keep up the research, it will pay off.:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,489 ✭✭✭No6


    Such a lot of questions but here goes

    south facing definately best particurarly if considering using solar and or going passive (which you havnt mentioned but is the way of the future!!) Large south facing windows will overheat in summer and so will need shading from summer sun.

    Use the form of construction most common in your area generally blockwork or timber frame, 1 icf house built around here sat waiting for godot for over a year before it got going again. Just use as much insulation as you can afford (bugalows are not the most energy efficient house forms so perhapr reconsider that one too if possible!!)

    Air tight is probably a misnomer but have a blower door test carried out on the house and detail to achieve the best air tightness you can. Approved Details being issued by the DOLEG in the next week or two!!!

    Sealed room stove or pellet stove no open fire places I expect Mr Gormley will ban them through regulation fairly soon!!!

    Renewables renewables renewables what can I say theres a lot of people selling them and when they f..k up its someone else's fault, shop around talk to everyone you can if you think they're being shifty then you're more than likely right, find people who actually have them installed and are happy with them and talk to them.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,550 ✭✭✭Slig


    What happened in the rest of europe over 30 years has happened here in about 3. it wont be long until you are seeing geothermal heat pumps being sold on the side of the road. Depending on how you live, different renewable systems may be more appropriate. For me, I turn off my oil in march so solar would be perfect for heating water during the summer, if your oil is still on during the summer then ist f-all use.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,072 ✭✭✭sunnysoutheast


    Gah - I did a great post on this last night but it's not there. :confused:

    Anyhoo, I think I did quite well seeing as my original post was before your questions.:)

    I've put some other pearls of wisdom to some of your questions below, good luck:

    build type - a good question with no one right answer. The issues with ICF (and Poroton etc.) are that there are few suppliers and experienced builders. We went with block and enhanced insulation. Timber frame we excluded because of a) lead time b) restrictions on open plan.

    air tightness - put a specific figure in the build contract and detail correctly

    HRV - a must have IMHO

    geotherm, woodpellet etc. - I don't think this residential market will survive the withdrawal of the SEI grants. These systems are so expensive to buy.

    solar DHW - we'll be putting this in soon, put a dual coil tank in now. The SEI grant is only for residences > 1 year.

    stoves - get room sealed

    insulated boards - you don't chase them, chase the wall as normal. you then have noggins or use the plasterboard boxes to get a decent fix. need to be airtight and fireproofed.

    upstairs - dimension and build for a habitable room. it'll cost you almost nothing incremental now to put bigger joists in, electrics, blanked off pipes, neetwork etc. Make sure you get the proper Veluxes and not the generics.

    SSE


  • Registered Users Posts: 342 ✭✭Slates


    Veluxes and not the generics.

    SSE

    Why so ??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,550 ✭✭✭Slig


    I think they mean proper top hung escape velux's where needed as opposed to the normal centre pivot ones


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,072 ✭✭✭sunnysoutheast


    Well if you're being charged for Velux windows make sure you get the real deal rather than the cheaper generic alternatives with a nice little difference being pocketed by the builder.

    SSE


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 125 ✭✭MrLNB


    yes, heard from a friend you can get cheap deals, comes in box to put together.

    also Meant to add, some people think its fashion, oh my UFH, who would knock a system they paid 5K for never mind 10-15 or more.

    There are a few honest people here I have to admit, but in the real world you don’t here many complain,


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