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Poxy chain broke

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  • Registered Users Posts: 15,989 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Stark wrote: »
    I usually take the lazy option and hold a soapy cloth over the chain while I run it through with the pedals. Maybe not the best for getting the gunk out from within the links...
    To be honest a fair few people rank this as sufficient for cleaning purposes; as long as you lube and wipe after the lube will penetrate into the links and drive the gunk out. I wipe and lube between full washes with the chain cleaner; if I'm doing the whole bike it is easy to use the chain cleaner.

    BTW note that although Weldtite TF2 (the green can lubricant) comes in a can, it is not the same as WD-40. TF2 is designed as a lubricant and fine to use on chains. It is quite thin though and for wet weather you may want to use something thicker. Wiping off after is still essential- you ideally don't want any oil on the _outside_ of the chain at all where it will only attract gunk. Chain should look nice and shiny when you are done.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,031 ✭✭✭FrankGrimes


    That's great advice there blorg - I always thought a big thick coating of oil on the outside was what was needed.

    So I left Sandyford at 5.45 and got a Luas in minutes and made it down just as Joe was bringing down the shutters, phew. They had the chain done and all was well on the way home (only slipped gear once and I think that was only a bit).

    Joe was very nice about it and was saying they're flat out at the moment. I said isn't that a good complaint and he said yes but on the other time he doesn't like if it puts him under so much pressure he can't keep promises to customers. I think he was genuinely under pressure this morning so it's understandable he wasn't guaranteeing to have it done today - he was being honest not rude. So all in all fair play to him for getting it done and I'd happily go back there.

    They didn't have any chain cleaning blocks in stock but I guess I'll pick one up next time I pass or online, will get a chain breaker too (any specific one needed?).


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,989 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Where you want the oil is on the inside of the links- I use the ones that come in little bottles like this and just squeeze a drop out onto each link, you see it slide immediately out of view into the link (BTW this does not take as long as it might sound once you are used to it, it's just dab dab dab very quickly until you are done.) You can generally see where you have done already but simplest thing is to start with your Power Link if you have one as it's a different colour. When you are done, hold a cloth around the chain and run the pedals backwards for several circuits, until the chain is nice and shiny and the excess is gone.

    QPCL04%3BWarehouse%3BWarehouse.jpg

    I have the dry version of this as well but it doesn't see as much use :D

    Any chain breaker should be fine, I know they have one in Joe Daly's for under a tenner or so. TBH I would not break the chain to clean it though it is a useful thing to have so you can put a new chain on yourself. It's a very simple operation.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 19 mtbr hylo


    Shimano chains are always on sale and are notorious for breaking.

    In 10 yrs have never broken an sram.

    Badly worn chain rings could also be causing the problem and the middle (most frequently used one) ring should probably be changed with a new chain.....

    cheers

    ps. it's a 30sec job to temporarily fix the chain; chaintool is a worthy investment


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,989 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Chainrings will _significantly_ outlast a chain or cassette; if you maintain your drivetrain and change your chain before it is worn you will get many 10s of thousands of km out of your chainrings. You certainly don't need to change them with each chain.


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