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Strange Cat/Kitten Question

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  • 04-08-2008 3:53pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 8,676 ✭✭✭


    So the question, my mate has a bunch of kittens he is looking for people to take em off his hands. Id love to take one but I know my family wouldnt be all that pushed about it.

    Anyways question is , how easy is it lets say to domesticate a cat, we had a cat previously maybe 12 years back when I was a kid, but had to give it away cause it was extremely hard to domesticate it wouldnt take well to indoors at all after months of trying. So if I take a kitten lets say is it alright to live it outside in warm box for a couple of weeks(maybe the shed), as in will it be ok. Also is it ok when it gets older to live outside, cause my family wont have it indoors.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 997 ✭✭✭MsFifers


    I hope you don't mind me be honest here - but I really don't think you should take that kitten. I'm sure you mean well, but it doesn't sound like you are in the right situation to get a cat.

    Having a cat, or any pet, is a big responsibility, and you need to have everyone in your family on board if you are going to get one. If they aren't pushed about this cat - what are you going to do for the times you aren't around to feed and take care of it? Will they look out for it when the weather gets nasty, or bring it to the vet if it needs it?

    Vets bills can be expensive - are you personally in a situation to pay a big bill? Will you be able to afford to get it neutered and vaccinated?

    I certainly wouldn't leave a small kitten on its own in a shed. It'll wander and get itself killed in no time. How old are these kittens you are talking about? They should be with their mother until about 12 weeks preferably. Many rescue groups will only give kittens to indoor homes now because so many cats are getting seriously injured, killed, lost, infected with incurable diseases when they are left outdoors all the time.

    My advice - don't do it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,676 ✭✭✭Chong


    This is the thing , they arent pushed but once they see it they immediatly change their minds. No question they wont feed her thats a guarantee along with looking after her if she becomes ill. Defo in a position to pay for vet bils thats not a problem, I am in full time employment.

    She comes vaccinated, so next is Speying in a couple of months.

    I think the kittens are 14 weeks old as far as I know, he is looking to off load them now as he has 5 of them to deal with it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,676 ✭✭✭Chong


    I think when I say outdoors also its just during the day time, the reason being is during the day there is nobody home and the house is full alarmed with sensors, so I dont think it would be possible for her to stay indoors. In the evenings though she will be in all night, its just really during the day.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 470 ✭✭animalcrazy


    Has he kept the kittens indoor? Then it won't be hard to domesticate if it has already had human contact, why not keep the kitten inside? Even if it is a kitten it should still use a litter tray.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 470 ✭✭animalcrazy


    Just saw your post before mine, I wouldn't recommend you get it if it has to be outside as you will have to keep it in for a week or two when you get it so it won't scamper.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,676 ✭✭✭Chong


    Ok so it looks like I am getting a kitten and i have also bargained it to have it inside too :)

    Which is ace.

    Although the buying of the food and vet bills etc are my responsibility but everyone will look after her.

    Anyways whats the best food to feed a kitten that may have not been weaned and what is the best food for a kitten that has been weaned.

    Also with litter trays , do kittens tend to take to them quite well, or how do I go about training them to use it per se.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,131 ✭✭✭RentDayBlues


    Kittens are easily trianed using the litter tray, but does take some time. Whiskers do a kitten range which is really good


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,676 ✭✭✭Chong


    Cool, I also believe, strangely I never this before, especially when we had cats previously, that we are not meant to give em milk. SO is it water always?


  • Registered Users Posts: 997 ✭✭✭MsFifers


    Some cats are intolerant of cows milk and it will upset their stomachs. So as a general rule, don't give cats milk.

    However - I will admit I give my Milly a tiny bit of milk sometimes as a little treat. It doesn't upset her stomach, so no harm, I reckon. I don't think its particularly nutricious for cats though, so not to be used as their dinner. (I suspect this whole "Don't give cats milk" is over-emphasised now in order to sell more Whiskas Cat Milk!)

    Always have fresh frequently changed water available for your kitten/cat - they can get kidney problems otherwise. (However, you may find that it'll prefer drinking from the kitchen sink instead! :D)

    When are you getting your kitten? You must be quite excited! Just be sure to check that the previous owners have wormed it. And you'll need to get it vaccinated against cat flu etc (Also don't forget to get it neutered/spayed at about 6 months!)

    Best of luck with it!


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,676 ✭✭✭Chong


    Defo looking forward to it :) should be the weekend. I am not entirely sure of the age , but I believe its more than two months old. I also think its been fully vaccinated and wormed.

    Actually do I need to have it spayed if its going to be an indoor cat , or is just a given you get it spayed?

    MsFifers, what do I actually feed it, as in whats the best, Can you feed just dry food or does it need to be a healthy mix of both as in whiskers etc, it really is a new experience all of this.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,851 ✭✭✭Glowing


    Van Zuylen wrote: »
    Actually do I need to have it spayed if its going to be an indoor cat

    Yes!! :)

    I found that just feeding them a good quality dried food (for kittens, until they're about 1) will keep their poo-output to a minimum! Very important when you've got a litter tray indoors! :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,676 ✭✭✭Chong


    SO just dried food and water then ya?

    Are their stomachs not able to handle the richer food?

    Is their any brand of dry food that you could recommend.


  • Registered Users Posts: 997 ✭✭✭MsFifers


    Van Zuylen wrote: »
    Actually do I need to have it spayed if its going to be an indoor cat , or is just a given you get it spayed?

    Yes - do. It isn't just to stop him/her making more babies. Intact males will "mark" their territory - ie spray really stinky pee around the place. Neutered males don't do this. Also unspayed females when they go into heat will start acting ... well.. lets just say - a bit weird! :D
    Van Zuylen wrote: »
    MsFifers, what do I actually feed it, as in whats the best, Can you feed just dry food or does it need to be a healthy mix of both as in whiskers etc, it really is a new experience all of this.

    I was advised to feed a high quality dry kitten food at first - like Hills or Royal Canin. You won't get them in the supermarket - it'll have to be a vet or a good quality pet shop. They are more expensive, but if you buy in bulk, it'll work out about the same - cos your cat will be healthy! The dry stuff is v. good for their teeth.

    I leave a bowlful of dry food out for mine in the morning and let them pick away at it over the day. Kittens especially have small stomachs so need to eat small amounts v. often.

    I'm beginning to suspect Whiskas is giving one of my cats an upset stomach. You could try it out and see if you kitten is ok on it. The advantage to tins/pouches is the water content which is good for the kidneys - but its usually only about 4% meat - so it is crappy food quality. Maybe stick with the dry food for now. You could give the odd treat of a Whiskas kitten pouch or even some cooked chicken/fish if you have some leftover (no bones though!).

    As the kitten food has v. high fat content, after about 6 months you can change to adult food (do it gradually ie mix in a bit of the new food with the old so they get used to it).

    What else can I suggest....:D

    Oh yeah - it'll probably be terrified when you bring it home, so put it in a quiet room to settle down for a while, and let it explore the rest of the house on a gradual basis.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,676 ✭✭✭Chong


    MsFifers wrote: »
    Yes - do. It isn't just to stop him/her making more babies. Intact males will "mark" their territory - ie spray really stinky pee around the place. Neutered males don't do this. Also unspayed females when they go into heat will start acting ... well.. lets just say - a bit weird! :D



    I was advised to feed a high quality dry kitten food at first - like Hills or Royal Canin. You won't get them in the supermarket - it'll have to be a vet or a good quality pet shop. They are more expensive, but if you buy in bulk, it'll work out about the same - cos your cat will be healthy! The dry stuff is v. good for their teeth.

    I leave a bowlful of dry food out for mine in the morning and let them pick away at it over the day. Kittens especially have small stomachs so need to eat small amounts v. often.

    I'm beginning to suspect Whiskas is giving one of my cats an upset stomach. You could try it out and see if you kitten is ok on it. The advantage to tins/pouches is the water content which is good for the kidneys - but its usually only about 4% meat - so it is crappy food quality. Maybe stick with the dry food for now. You could give the odd treat of a Whiskas kitten pouch or even some cooked chicken/fish if you have some leftover (no bones though!).

    As the kitten food has v. high fat content, after about 6 months you can change to adult food (do it gradually ie mix in a bit of the new food with the old so they get used to it).

    What else can I suggest....:D

    Oh yeah - it'll probably be terrified when you bring it home, so put it in a quiet room to settle down for a while, and let it explore the rest of the house on a gradual basis.
    Excellent stuff msFifers great post.

    I am hopefully getting a female so no sprayed cat pee by a male all over the house.

    Totally looking forward to this now. When I get it home what should I do, cause if its terrified will it not get stressed and maybe no1/no2 all over the place.

    First cat we had must been 19 years ago now, wrecked the place with no2 everywhere, must been completely stressed out , parents were not impressed and he was shipped off to a neighbours who took him in.


  • Registered Users Posts: 997 ✭✭✭MsFifers


    Van Zuylen wrote: »
    First cat we had must been 19 years ago now, wrecked the place with no2 everywhere, must been completely stressed out , parents were not impressed and he was shipped off to a neighbours who took him in.

    LOL! It must have been stressed out! Or else, maybe a bit too young or something.

    I think you should just put your kitten in a quiet place, leave a litter tray close by, and it'll figure it out. The fewer other people around, the better, and don't keep trying to pet it if it looks nervous, let it come to you instead.

    I kept mine in the hall (tiles!!:D) for their first couple of days, with their litter tray in the corner. I had a little bed ready for them, and a couple of empty cardboard boxes so they could hide if they felt like it.

    It took them about 3 days to warm up to me and come over. And probably another month before they would relax enough to sleep on my lap! Now they are the cuddliest cats in the world and snuggle up to me every evening.

    If it does have a mishap just lift it into the litter tray, clean the area completely and use white vinegar to remove the smell (not bleach as the ammonia in it will actually cause the cat to pee again there to cover up that smell). Cats naturally prefer to bury their waste, so when it is in its litter box it should figure out that it is a handy place to dig - easier than carpet!


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,676 ✭✭✭Chong


    MsFifers wrote: »
    LOL! It must have been stressed out! Or else, maybe a bit too young or something.

    I think you should just put your kitten in a quiet place, leave a litter tray close by, and it'll figure it out. The fewer other people around, the better, and don't keep trying to pet it if it looks nervous, let it come to you instead.

    I kept mine in the hall (tiles!!:D) for their first couple of days, with their litter tray in the corner. I had a little bed ready for them, and a couple of empty cardboard boxes so they could hide if they felt like it.

    It took them about 3 days to warm up to me and come over. And probably another month before they would relax enough to sleep on my lap! Now they are the cuddliest cats in the world and snuggle up to me every evening.

    If it does have a mishap just lift it into the litter tray, clean the area completely and use white vinegar to remove the smell (not bleach as the ammonia in it will actually cause the cat to pee again there to cover up that smell). Cats naturally prefer to bury their waste, so when it is in its litter box it should figure out that it is a handy place to dig - easier than carpet!
    Some great advice there MsFifers, thank you!

    When I get her, I will let you know how I get on.

    On a side note thankfully we have no carpet, only tiles and laminated floors :D

    Anyone with any other advice feel free to add :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,676 ✭✭✭Chong


    I spose one question I forgot to ask was:

    what was the essential things I need to have a new kitten?

    From toys to litter box etc?


  • Registered Users Posts: 997 ✭✭✭MsFifers


    Oh - I forgot to say - you should ask what it is currently being fed, and give it the same thing at first. Changes can upset the little tummies! :) You can gradually introduce your high-quality-nothing-but-the-best food after a while. :D

    You really don't need a lot of stuff. Just food/water bowls, a couple of litter trays, litter (again whatever it is used to). You can give it a bed - can just be a box with an old towel or cushion, or it may prefer to sleep on your sofa!

    A scratching post is good - or else it might use your furniture. Try to find a v. long one though -most of the ones for sale are too short and your kitten will outgrow it pretty fast.

    Kittens turn everything into toys so don't worry about that!! Some little scrunched up balls of paper will keep it entertained!

    Aw man! Now I really want a kitten! :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,676 ✭✭✭Chong


    MsFifers wrote: »
    Oh - I forgot to say - you should ask what it is currently being fed, and give it the same thing at first. Changes can upset the little tummies! :) You can gradually introduce your high-quality-nothing-but-the-best food after a while. :D

    You really don't need a lot of stuff. Just food/water bowls, a couple of litter trays, litter (again whatever it is used to). You can give it a bed - can just be a box with an old towel or cushion, or it may prefer to sleep on your sofa!

    A scratching post is good - or else it might use your furniture. Try to find a v. long one though -most of the ones for sale are too short and your kitten will outgrow it pretty fast.

    Kittens turn everything into toys so don't worry about that!! Some little scrunched up balls of paper will keep it entertained!

    Aw man! Now I really want a kitten! :D
    Again more good advice :) Thanks MsFifers.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,330 ✭✭✭jasonb


    Yes, lots of excellent advice from MsFifers.

    I'd go with dry food only, Royal Canin or Hills are both excellent. Our kat had water and Hills until she was one, and now she's on water and Whiskas Complete Dry Food. As far as I know, Milk is food to cats, not drink, so as she's getting the Dry Food, she doesn't need milk at all. Find a brand / type that's good for the cat and the cat likes and stick to it, as MsFifers says they don't like change. As she also said, Dry Food is good for their teeth too, and has the added advantage of not really smelling or going off like an open tin of cat food.

    We kept our kitten in the hall for about a week too, so she got used to it etc. Took her most of the week before she'd stop trying to hide from us and actually purred, though she had spent the first weeks of her life outdoors away from humans. All you need is one bowl for food, one for water ( don't put them beside each other, keep them separate ), a litter tray ( ours just used the tray within one day, we put her into the tray once to show it was there, and she quickly realised that the litter was easier to dig than the wooden floors! ), something to sleep on, and maybe even just a paper bag so that the cat can hide!

    With litter trays, the ideal is one that's as deep as possible without stopping the cat from being able to climb into it. The deeper the tray, the less chance of litter flying all over the room when she's pawing at it, and it also means you can put more litter into the tray, thus covering up odours etc. But do make sure the cat ( especially when she's small ) can get into the tray!

    After a week or two in the hall, start letting the kitten investigate the house more, but make sure there aren't little cubby holes it can get into and not want to come back out of! Find out how much food the cat should be getting each day ( they all have recommended daily amounts ) and give the cat that much each day and nothing else. This will stop the cat getting fat as it gets older.

    Cats seem to be either loved or hated by people, but if you're a cat lover there's nothing cuter than having a kitten, you'll have lots of fun playing with it. Don't bother too much with buying toys, milk carton tops are great on wooden floors or lino, as the cat can flick the top and it'll slide away on the floor. A ball of string or tinfoil works great too. Once the cat is older and more comfortable with you, you can play fight with it by putting on a good thick glove or two on your hand, so its claws won't hurt!

    Make sure you get it spayed and get its jabs etc., all very important and after the early months it's only once a year for the injections and not too expensive. Don't let it out at all until it's fully recovered from being spayed!

    Another good point was made by MsFifers about scratching posts, most of them are very small ( and have VERY small kittens in the pictures to make them look bigger ), so get a big one or your furniture will suffer. Also, Cats, unlike Dogs, can't understand being in trouble hours after doing something wrong. If you come home and they've not used the litter tray, giving out to them, putting them in the tray etc. means nothing to them. The only way they'll learn is if it's done immediately, so if you see the kitten / cat doing anything wrong ( not using the tray, sitting on the kitchen table etc. ) make a noise about it immediately.

    Speaking of noise, it's a good way to discourage behaviour you don't want. Our cat used to scratch at the kitchen door ( where she sleeps at night ) until we put the hoover on the other side, and we'd turn it on when she scratched. She learned that lesson quickly and the hoover isn't needed anymore, apart from an occasional reminder, but even now she only has to hear that it's there, we don't have to turn it on!

    Lots of advice, but the most important one is have fun! :)

    J.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,676 ✭✭✭Chong


    Another excellent post cheers Jason , i will inform ye of how I get on.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 549 ✭✭✭BlackCat2008


    I would advise every one to give there cats /dogs wet food or fresh meat at least four or five times a week stops cisities and other urinary problems.

    I handle all kittens/pups that come into me there and then and let them know were every thing is I find leaving them alone at such an early age when they've just come from a litter makes them harder to handle, they seek company after they've been in company, leave her bed in the quiets corner of the sitting room and just pet her when she comes out and show her your no threat, roll a ball or a piece of rolled up paper and she'll come round fine. Long hours alone for a young animal is not good for them.

    As I have bigger animals about that tend to get rough with the younger ones I let the kittens sleep in the travel cage on the bed or locker with a micro food dish as a litter tray and a small bowl of food and water and I find they all ways fall asleep when I rub or hold there paw and then in the morning I let them out for a snuggle and I never have to worry about them coming round!! even if I fall back asleep they go back into the cage to use the litter tray or feed then come back for more snuggles.

    Every one has there own ways and I'm sure you'll find one that works for you as well.

    A really great food is Arden Grange they do kitten and adult but I do agree with giving her what ever she has been getting and slowly changing over, if she has not been weaned onto solids which she should from about four weeks on then you'll have to start her of on a soft food and introduce the dry food after a few days.

    Don't bother with whiskers milk as it's full of sugar and there's really nothing in it of value, can't remember who (dame my poor memory) machined RC do a kitten milk, I would make sure she is mostly on dry food and of the wet and milk by three months as thats when she will start to teed and get her adult teeth, best to start her of on the right foot for healthy teeth.

    Kittens are just if not more happy with a car board box to play in than the most expensive toy on the market.

    Warnings !!! make sure she is in eye shoot when you put on the dish washer or washing machine, check all cords hanging from blinds and tie them up so she can't hang her self from them and orders for the man of the house toilet seat to be kept down until she is big enough to get her self out if she falls in and don't leave buckets of water around either.

    Yes for vac's and neutering all ways don't forget the FELv either not all vets will remind you of it and if your planning on letting her out leave it until the fur from her neutering has grown in and super vise her for a few weeks till she gets use to it.

    Most of all don't get worried to much and have fun thats the best way for you's to get to know each other.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,676 ✭✭✭Chong


    Some most unfortunate news everyone.

    So I was meant to pick up the kitten last weekend but on Saturday morning I got a call from my mate. He had 2 left in the litter, having given away 3, so two were left. He lives out in the country, anyways early Saturday morning screechs from area he was keeping the kittens at the back the house woke him. Both kittens were very badly attacked by he thought a fox maybe, were left for dead on the back lawn, also the mother was quite badly wounded and had to be put down Monday morning due her injuired, both of use were gutted, if only I picked the kitten up earlier.

    I never knew a fox could do this much damage especially to kittens.

    :( sad situation, might look into going to the local sanctuary to pick one up now.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,596 ✭✭✭anniehoo


    Some very good advice posted here!
    Aww sorry Mr X to hear about the loss of the kitten, but you sound like you'd be a very good owner!
    Only this mornng a beautiful kitten was brought into where i work, very skinny though as it had been trapped between a wall for 5 days! nervous and hungry but otherwise fine! He went to the dspca shelter in rathfarnham so there ya go! Good luck, cats are great ;)
    Hes all black and only about 4 weeks old so itll be another few weeks before he can go to a home!


  • Registered Users Posts: 997 ✭✭✭MsFifers


    Thats a real pity Mr X - just when you were all prepared for them!

    I'm sure you'll find plenty of other kittens looking for good homes though. Keep them in! Or at least in a secure place!


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