water tends to sit on paint..

booooonzo

My car was resprayed, and since it looks great when polished up but when it rains a few weeks after polishing (ive tried different polish) water tends to sit on the body way more than other cars, even old dull paint cars.

something about it water just doesnt evaporate off it quickly. when you drive off its grand but seems to take longer to dry.

anybody know why?

pyramuid man

If it beads I would think that has something to do with the wax

Neilw

Water will bead on top of a wax as the wax tries to repel it (hydrophobic).
The water will sit on flat surfaces and sheet off vertical surfaces.

Most polishes don't contain wax so try a decent wax. Collinite 476s is one of the best out there for durability.

magick

any pics of the before and after spray job, interested to see how it came out.

Tipsy Mac

Maybe try some T-Cut.

TomMc

booooonzo wrote: »

My car was resprayed, and since it looks great when polished up but when it rains a few weeks after polishing (ive tried different polish) water tends to sit on the body way more than other cars, even old dull paint cars.

something about it water just doesnt evaporate off it quickly. when you drive off its grand but seems to take longer to dry.

anybody know why?

A new car or one that has been resprayed properly will have a high degree of surface tension, so should repel things better than an older vehicle. A more contaminant free, smoother, slicker finish and more hydrophobic also where water is concerned. You notice this on brand new cars for the first 9 months to a year. So it tends to repel things much like a wax would (at least to the naked eye) but without having any physical protection in place. The water will bead to an extent rather than laying completely flat on the surface like a thin wet blanket layer over the entire paint.

If water beads on the surface due to high tension (and or a wax layer in place), it means droplets will sit on horizontal panels for long periods till the sun evaporates same or you drive the car to move them. On the other hand without much surface tension (and or any or very much wax, sealant protection) the water will pool & level out, possibly run off, rather than bead and so often there is less water laying on the paint overall. A thin even layer of water will evaporate much quicker off the paint than one containing large water droplets everywhere. The more surface tension the larger the water droplets. Water molecules bond with each other in a spherical shape when external factors are repelling them away more and more. That is why waxes tend to spot the finish of paint most. The water droplets evaporate gradually and the acid rain and other contaminants contained in these droplets of rainfall, get baked on to the finish by the sun.

What can also happen too is that fresh paint or a waxed/sealed finish which has a layer of dust & dirt on the paint will prevent the water from beading or sheeting as much till this layer of contamination is washed away. Essentially the water is been held in place by the dirt. If the surface was clean it would revert back to what is normally expected.

Lastly the products you have applied may have changed the characteristics of what you might expect to see. Waxes bead water, sealants tend to sheet it and many polishes/glazes (oily) refine the appearance of the paint rather than repel the elements very much.

booooonzo

thanks guys for all the answers, the polish ive been using is this stuff
http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HD&Range=2

could be that maybe its not a wax, would a wax go on after a resin polish?

the water doesnt beed off the car it sits there in blobs upto about the size of a 2euro or larger.
I use turtle wax zip wax to wash it, so wouldnt this have wax in it? water does beed just after a wash but still not to the level other cars ive had.

i suppose im just wondering could it be the paint or am i not polishing/waxing/washing it correctly... although in this weather you'd wonder why bother

zilog_jones

I've noticed the same thing with my car after waxing it (Meguiar's Cleaner Wax - came with the clay bar kit thing). The water stays in beads everywhere, though it drains off quickly enough once I start driving. I rarely see the same on any other car over a year old - I guess not a lot of people wax their cars

zilog_jones

booooonzo wrote: »

I use turtle wax zip wax to wash it, so wouldnt this have wax in it? water does beed just after a wash but still not to the level other cars ive had.

From my experience Zip Wax isn't really much good at washing nor waxing. Get a proper car shampoo (even the Halford's own brand stuff is miles better) and some proper wax or sealant if you have the time/patience. My Zip Wax has been relegated to washing the house windows - it's certainly better than Fairy liquid, but beyond that...

Neilw

Super resin polish is one of autoglyms better products, I don't rate any of them very highly but thats another days work.
Super resin is good for hiding minor swirls but it's durability is poor, a week or two at best.
Zip wax also not very good, buy a decent durable paste or liquid wax (collinite) and you will be ok.

TomMc

booooonzo wrote: »

thanks guys for all the answers, the polish ive been using is this stuff
http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=HD&Range=2

could be that maybe its not a wax, would a wax go on after a resin polish?

the water doesnt beed off the car it sits there in blobs upto about the size of a 2euro or larger.
I use turtle wax zip wax to wash it, so wouldnt this have wax in it? water does beed just after a wash but still not to the level other cars ive had.

i suppose im just wondering could it be the paint or am i not polishing/waxing/washing it correctly... although in this weather you'd wonder why bother

The lesser water beading or blobs/blotchy look is probably down to the SRP layer. It contains acrylic resins, not wax so does not leave as much tension on the finish or bead water to the same level. I would say what is happening is that you have simply got an in between level of protection as well, not too much not too little, so you are not getting smaller tighter more spherical beads on the one hand or no water repellency at all on the other.

OK the AG Super Resin Polish is decent enough if nothing spectacular. So we will stick with it for now. The best thing to do is to apply it sparingly and work it into the paint really well using a dampened foam applicator pad, not t-shirt!!! If you find it very dusty or chalky when you are buffing off the residue, you are simply applying too much at a time or for a given area. So use less and it is better to polish it into the paint that bit more, rather than just spreading it out over the surface and then wiping it off.

On its own it won't protect for very long. It does provide a good base for a wax to be applied afterwards but you are probably better to apply their "Extra Gloss Protection" on top instead. Much easier to apply as a liquid rather than a paste wax. It is primarily a sealant so will last a good bit longer. It is the bottle with the Gold label. This has to be applied extremely sparingly (a microfibre pad is best) or it will be very difficult to remove. Ideally you want to apply the thinnest coating you possible can and then leave it for an hour or two at least and then buff off the residue.

After that just wash with their Bodywork Shampoo and conditioner (although it doesn't foam much so not great for washing but gentle on the protective layers) or else something like Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo. Something mild that won't strip off the protection. Some Wash & wax products contain salt or other dodgy chemicals so best avoided.

After 1, 2 or 3 months (whatever you like) you can apply another coat of EGP, leave out the SRP or you would be stipping the lot off and starting again. After 6 months do the two step process from scratch again.


The alternative is to scrap Autoglym and go for something of higher quality which only requires one product be used on its own if you want to cut down the ongoing workload but still increase overall protection.

crosstownk

pyramuid man wrote: »

If it beads I would think that has something to do with the wax

Basically - yes if paint is well waxed then the water will 'bead'.

Tipsy Mac wrote: »

Maybe try some T-Cut.

I don't see any need for this with new paintwork.

OP, I don't think it's anything to worry about. Anytime I wax my car I get the beading effect for a few weeks.

booooonzo

Thanks again guys, espically TomMC for your detailed posts.

Again its not the beeding (i thought this was a good sign actually) i dont like its the mini puddles, ill try the different products mentioned and see if it changes.

I thought zip wax was decent so ill get rid of that and try the other products.

thanks again

commited

OP,

Take it easy with the super resin polish - it is meant to be used to get scratches out and bring back a shine to dull paint. If you continue to use it regularly, you'll wreck your new paint.

Assuming your paintwork is in perfect condition, wash the car, polish it and then wax it. Put on a few layers of wax, and then you'll only need to wash the car with a decent shampoo & lambswool mitt for it to look brand new again. You'll then need to wax it again every couple of months, and polish it when it starts to lose it's shine (I've never had a car long enough to notice this!)

For wax, I cannot recommend Meguirs Gold Class Liquid wax highly enough.
For Shampoo, again Meguirs Gold Class shampoo is great.

TomMc

^^^ Super Resin Polish will do no harm to your paint. It is very mild. It uses chalk as a gentler abrasive, not conventional ones you would find in polishes. You can feel free to use it as often as you like. Commited without prejudice, you are confusing this SRP product with AutoGlym's Paint Renovator (purple label) which is another story altogether, yes only for removing scratches, and not as a general polish.

The alternative to the combination of SRP + EGP is to use Autoglym Ultra Deep Shine as a one step product on its own for paint in excellent condition to begin with. But keep it away from rubber trim or it will stain. It is the mildest of the lot as was introduced partly down to EU VOC regulations and vehicles nowadays having water, not solvent based paints. More delicate.

commited

A friend of mine burned through his paint with continuous SRP applications. Maybe he just had exceptionally thin paint!

Seperate

commited wrote: »

A friend of mine burned through his paint with continuous SRP applications. Maybe he just had exceptionally thin paint!

or most likely poor technique with a buffer.......

L-M

Seperate wrote: »

or most likely poor technique with a buffer.......

+1

Not ust in relation to the previous poster but u really need to know how the use a buffer and compound. The two can be a very dangerous tool towards paint.

mcwhirter

TomMc wrote: »

The lesser water beading or blobs/blotchy look is probably down to the SRP layer. It contains acrylic resins, not wax so does not leave as much tension on the finish or bead water to the same level. I would say what is happening is that you have simply got an in between level of protection as well, not too much not too little, so you are not getting smaller tighter more spherical beads on the one hand or no water repellency at all on the other.

OK the AG Super Resin Polish is decent enough if nothing spectacular. So we will stick with it for now. The best thing to do is to apply it sparingly and work it into the paint really well using a dampened foam applicator pad, not t-shirt!!! If you find it very dusty or chalky when you are buffing off the residue, you are simply applying too much at a time or for a given area. So use less and it is better to polish it into the paint that bit more, rather than just spreading it out over the surface and then wiping it off.

On its own it won't protect for very long. It does provide a good base for a wax to be applied afterwards but you are probably better to apply their "Extra Gloss Protection" on top instead. Much easier to apply as a liquid rather than a paste wax. It is primarily a sealant so will last a good bit longer. It is the bottle with the Gold label. This has to be applied extremely sparingly (a microfibre pad is best) or it will be very difficult to remove. Ideally you want to apply the thinnest coating you possible can and then leave it for an hour or two at least and then buff off the residue.

After that just wash with their Bodywork Shampoo and conditioner (although it doesn't foam much so not great for washing but gentle on the protective layers) or else something like Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo. Something mild that won't strip off the protection. Some Wash & wax products contain salt or other dodgy chemicals so best avoided.

After 1, 2 or 3 months (whatever you like) you can apply another coat of EGP, leave out the SRP or you would be stipping the lot off and starting again. After 6 months do the two step process from scratch again.

Agree with that procedure, I washed my car with autoglym shampoo, then used super resin polish. Applied EGP and then buffed off about half an hour later. The car paint had a 'wet' look, very shiny.
That was done back in May. Washed again last week and leathered off excess water. Didn't apply any more srp or egp. Car as good as it was back in May.