Painting new front door

TKK

I've just had the front door replaced (due to the previous owners messing) and it needs painting sharpish.

The existing frame and old door were painted (badly) so I need to strip back the frame too. I would presume nitromors would be my best bet here (though I do have a gas soldering iron that also functions as a blower I might try)?

What's the best procedure for doing this? Do I give the door a light sanding, then clean and prime followed by gloss? It's a teak door so I presume it's an aluminium primer I'll need?

mad m

If your going to burn off the frame, then make sure that any falling debri is not smoking as it might catch fire to something.Nitromorse is the safer bet but watch out for splashes,use water to neutralise if it gets on your skin. Your right with the Aluminium primer, this is suitable for all hardwoods as a primer. What colour are you going to put on door? Its just if you are going to paint it a colour then mix some black in white undercoat and use the grey as your base for a finish. if its white fire ahead with white undercoat. Don't use the aluminium primer as an undercoat.

Give door at least two undercoats, and fill any defects first and sand in between coats before finishing with a gloss finish.

TKK

Cheers for that. It's looking like being red for the door colour.

So the sequence should be primer - filler - undercoat * 2 - finish * 2 with light sanding in between each?

mad m

Well one coat of gloss should be ok but red can be hard to cover. Make sure you try and do the glossing fairly quick after the undercoat has dried fully. If you dont when applying the gloss it does slide on rather than grip on, the undercoat seems to lose its grip if left for a few days before finishing it with gloss.

Best of luck.

Wertz

I find with most reds, that it's better to just stick on two coats of gloss and skimp on one of the u/cs for the sake of coverage. Some red gloss is a 2 coat system, with a light grey u/c.
Another thing, for those about to prime exterior hardwood....aluminium primer is old hat, especially if you intend to finish in a light colour. Far better to use the like of Cover Stain or Pro-Block oil primers. They'll seal in tannins and stop oil bleeding just as well as Aluminium will but there's no messy grey residue after sanding, the primer doesn't need to be "killed" with an extra u/c and it hard dries much faster than Aluminium too (which can take 24 h). You can also get it tinted to help with the coverage of subsequent coats.

S.L.F

TKK wrote: »

I've just had the front door replaced (due to the previous owners messing) and it needs painting sharpish.

The existing frame and old door were painted (badly) so I need to strip back the frame too. I would presume nitromors would be my best bet here (though I do have a gas soldering iron that also functions as a blower I might try)?

I think you have the painting licked!

Now the paint stripping, I've found when stripping it is best to do it section by section don't do it in little bits all over the place concentrate on each section till it is complete.

Start with using your heat gun to remove the heavy layers of paint, spread the heat around don't leave it too long in 1 place or you'll have burns and can cause a fire. If you come up against sections that have mouldings use a curved wire brush to get them. If you decide to go further you can use Nitromorse afterwards to get a very smooth finish.

TKK

Wertz wrote: »

I find with most reds, that it's better to just stick on two coats of gloss and skimp on one of the u/cs for the sake of coverage. Some red gloss is a 2 coat system, with a light grey u/c.
Another thing, for those about to prime exterior hardwood....aluminium primer is old hat, especially if you intend to finish in a light colour. Far better to use the like of Cover Stain or Pro-Block oil primers. They'll seal in tannins and stop oil bleeding just as well as Aluminium will but there's no messy grey residue after sanding, the primer doesn't need to be "killed" with an extra u/c and it hard dries much faster than Aluminium too (which can take 24 h). You can also get it tinted to help with the coverage of subsequent coats.

I was kinda veering towards two coats of gloss anyway.

Given the weather this year I'm all for anything which dries fast. Can the cover stain or pro-block primers be got fairly easily?

Wertz

Cover Stain (zinsser) is fairly widely available, pro block (sherwin williams) less so.
Both are touch dry in an hour, hard dry (sandable/recoatable) after about 4 hrs in good conditions, stop hardwood staining and seal the grain. You won't be able to get a red made up in them though, best to get the shop to add a little black dye to make a light grey, prime it and u/c it using that then 2 gloss (at least 24hr between coats). Oh and take the weather strip or rubbers off your doorframe so it doesn't stick...