Engineer code for Aritech CS350

nava

Hi

I wonder if anyone knows any other codes for Aritech CS350, I tested 1278, 1234 and 1010 (does not work at all as when I press the 0 goes back to the start) The alarm was originally installed by "High Security Alarms" so they might have change it does anyone know if they have a default code they use, I tried parts of their phone number but did not work.

Thanks

milltown

Not an Aritech but on my alarm the engineer code is printed on the PCB on the main alarm panel. 4567 iirc.

nava

milltown wrote: »

Not an Aritech but on my alarm the engineer code is printed on the PCB on the main alarm panel. 4567 iirc.

Thanks for that code, I think it might be correct when I keyed that code and got a CODE Tamper and a count down from 90 is that OK?

Also I want to lower the sensitivity for the sensors to movement, as far as I remember the last guy that worked on it move it up to 80-90 or 8-9. What would the best option be?

The problem we have is that we think with the changes in the weather because the PVC windows expand is causing the alarm to go off.

milltown

I've pretty much just taught you everything I know about alarms

A bit of basic faultfinding shouldn't be too difficult though. I'm sure there'll be someone along to correct me but here goes nothing:

First off, when the alarm goes off does the panel show a zone or a tamper? If it's a tamper then I think it's more likely a wiring problem than a sensor. I have found on two occasions, broken wires in alarm sensors that were making enough contact most of the time but causing problems every once in a while. Maybe pull the covers off each of the sensors and have a look at the wires and give them a wiggle.

If it's a zone alarm much of the same applies. Try setting the alarm then making sure there's a bit of margin in each window and door with a contact sensor on it. If one goes off as soon as you move it, see can the magnet or contact be repositioned slightly. The inertia, or bump sensors, don't really have much that can go wrong with them, just make sure they're fitted the right way up (iirc there's an arrow on them that should point up). If you suspect one, you can sim it out by twisting together the pairs of wires. One pair for the sensor, one pair for the tamper circuit.

*Milltown accepts no resonsibility for loss or damage arising from taking this advice. It is given on the assumption that you have a bit of cop on and would call an engineer if you had any doubts about your ability. But as the man says "It's not rocket surgery".

nava

Hi

Thanks for the reply it shows a Zone, all the sensor do look ok and no loose wires as I did check that before, what I noticed before that after I open them the alarm work ok for a while but they started to cause the same problem.

So I would prefer to check the setup for movements before I have to call someone to check it.

Any ideas?

milltown

Like I said, if it's happening regularly enough and you know which openings are on which zone, go through them one at a time and bypass them. It should be fairly obvious which wires need to be connected to bypass each sensor.

Does the panel show, when the alarm is off, what zones are open? This would save a bit of time. Maybe even resort to just bridging out the zone at the panel, if it still acts up then it's new panel time.

fox007

lads I have one of these alarms and the battery neeeded to be changed so got a new one installed it and still the whole system is dead no lights nothing can any one help??
could it be a dodgy battery?

Steve

check the fuse - in a little holder where the mains comes in.

fox007

got it sorted took the fuses out cheked them put them back in and the system came back to life dont know how but all is fine now result