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soild fuel stove advise

178101213

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,161 ✭✭✭cubix


    I think SS is saying you need a tight fit between your stove flu & clay/chimmney flu to get the best out of it, heat & efficiency wise


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    cubix wrote: »
    I think SS is saying you need a tight fit between your stove flu & clay/chimmney flu to get the best out of it, heat & efficiency wise

    I don't think that's what he means at all. I'm pretty sure he's advising you to keep it to 5" the whole way up, i.e. line the flue with a flexi liner and insulate with vermiculite.


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    buttonsc wrote: »
    I have the 5" flue, it in turn has to connect to an 8" clay liner hence the need of a reducer.
    You have lost me with the reference to the boy racer?????? Makes no sense at all.:confused:

    I know that putting a bloody big wide exhaust on a Renault Clio 1.2 litre engine tends to cause problems with fuel consumption if that helps explain it. Dilbert75 hit the nail on the head. You need to read the regulations and you will find that you should reduce the diameter of the flue to suit the appliance you are fitting...therefore fitting a stove with a 5" flue outlet, should have the same diameter of flue the entire run of the chimney, unless there are bends or you plan to burn coal, in which case you need to upsize to 6", but a stainless steel lining system with a backfill of insulation will encourage flue gases to remain stable, even though the stove is designed to burn slow. The clay liner are fine for an open fire where the flue gas temperatures are always very high, but a stove could cause a world of problems if you are not careful.

    Hope this makes sense.

    Best regards

    David


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    Gings home value always had them at that price. Thats where I got mine 2 years ago at that same price.

    http://www.gings.ie/stanley%20offers.htm#stoves


    had it lit last night for the first time since winter.

    I need to reinstall it. I have cracked fire cement around the spigot at the rear. Possible leek . Although the Co2 detector in the room cant detect it even when held close.

    I would rather repair now when is not that cold yet.

    I would recommend the little stove. It has well payed for itself by now. great investment.
    dsc00089jk.th.jpg

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Please God tell me this is not your stove in the image.


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    Dilbert75 wrote: »
    I don't think that's what he means at all. I'm pretty sure he's advising you to keep it to 5" the whole way up, i.e. line the flue with a flexi liner and insulate with vermiculite.

    Well done sir...
    You can go top of the class.

    ;-}


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  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    buttonsc wrote: »
    Waterford Stanley are having their "Heat Week Promotion 16th to 25th October " and have €100 off an Oísin Stove now €399,check their site for stockists. The Oísin stove should suit your needs.

    Not a bad price, but for the long term, buy something more expensive that is cheaper to run on fuel and will give you a reasonable life expectancy. Charnwood, Morso, Jotul, Clearview to name but a few are worthy contenders, as they are not cast in China with reconstituted scrap metal...think about how long a grate lasts in an open fire before you have to replace it and you will get the idea.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    yes it is sooty soup. And has been for the last 2 years, as you well know.

    Please spare me the harth regulation . Been two years and not a coal has fallen.

    By the way. My grate is as good as new. Its far from scrap metal. I do know you sell them . You have made that blatantly obvious in your sales pitches on earlier posts.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    Please God tell me this is not your stove in the image.

    OK - I'm curious though - what can you see wrong from this picture?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    Dilbert75 wrote: »
    OK - I'm curious though - what can you see wrong from this picture?

    I dont have 300mm in front. Everything else you see in that pic is bang on within regs.

    I have 100mm. Which is fine unless you decide to fill you stove to the throat with coal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    Hmmm - thought there was going to be a more serious breach than that...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 761 ✭✭✭Agent_47


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    I dont have 300mm in front. Everything else you see in that pic is bang on within regs.

    I have 100mm. Which is fine unless you decide to fill you stove to the throat with coal.


    Looks no different to mine except I put a Fire sheet at the rear with the pipe going through. Had an Oisin, upgraded to a Morso 1412 Squirrel with a bigger box. Happy days :D


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    I dont have 300mm in front. Everything else you see in that pic is bang on within regs.

    I have 100mm. Which is fine unless you decide to fill you stove to the throat with coal.


    yeah,its not like you will have it so far stoked up like you had to power a steam engine ot the likes of the titanic or lucitania with it.

    Nowt wrong with your setup there,looks well.:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    Lets just hope your insurance company and fire inspection officer sees it as OK if the house burns to the ground, since you have ignored even the most basic of rules which is follow manufacturers instructions, let alone building regs.

    (FROM STANLEY WEBSITE FOR INSTALLATION)

    FLOOR PROTECTION
    When installing this heater on a combustible floor , a
    floor protector, consisting of a layer of non-combustible
    material at least 3/8” thick or 1/4” thick covered
    with 1/8” sheet metal is required to cover the
    area under the heater and extend to at least 18” at
    the front and 8” to the sides and rear. This will provide
    protection from sparks and embers which may
    fall out from the door when stoking or fuelling.

    And the clearance to the combustible mantle "Mantle clearance 25” 635mm"

    And the whole document is here http://www.waterfordstanley.com/SiteImages/Site_131/PDF/OisinSF.pdf

    You know what, it's not my house so if you think it is safe..then it must be. Keep safe.


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    It's also worth noting that even Stanley, in one of the diagrams for the Oisin, which is what I am referring too, but would expect the others to the same under the installation pages show the stove vented from the back with a t section, which is what I have repeatedly said in these forums, and it seems as though they are showing the flue being the same diameter all the way up through the chimney and have mentioned stainless steel.....perhaps before gsxr1 questions me for the advice I have given freely, he should refer to the manufacturer and QUESTION why they are agreeing with me.

    Do you think I am typing this advice for the good of my health..especially when gsxr1 has already bought his stove stove. The issue I have is that if anyone does the same as he has and burns their house down because they have followed incorrect advice from a forum user rather than what registered solid fuel technicians and manufacturers state, then I would feel that the concept of the forum has failed. I have no doubt that it open up healthy debate, but if advice is blatently dangerous, then it needs to be brought to the attention of the public.


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    And a final GEM found on STANLEY'S website for installation and I quote for the purposes of all who have continually questioned me.

    "If connecting to an existing chimney with a flue
    diameter of more that 6” it is necessary to line the
    flue using a suitable stainless steel flue liner."

    I await the response on a public forum from gsxr1 and others.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    And a final GEM found on STANLEY'S website for installation and I quote for the purposes of all who have continually questioned me.

    "If connecting to an existing chimney with a flue
    diameter of more that 6” it is necessary to line the
    flue using a suitable stainless steel flue liner."

    I await the response on a public forum from gsxr1 and others.

    And you just happen to sell them, yeah. :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    yes it is sooty soup. And has been for the last 2 years, as you well know.

    Please spare me the harth regulation . Been two years and not a coal has fallen.

    By the way. My grate is as good as new. Its far from scrap metal. I do know you sell them . You have made that blatantly obvious in your sales pitches on earlier posts.

    Never had seen the photos of the finished article though. And no, I don't sell Stanley stoves, and I beg to differ about the scrap metal. It will have been something else before it was your grate I can assure you, as is most "cast iron" products nowadays.


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    And you just happen to sell them, yeah. :rolleyes:

    Wouldn't fit a stove without a liner...simple as that, as I have repeatedly said within this forum, even though people have questioned my motives. I would walk away from projects quicker than do a half a job, as my reputation as Chariman of the NIACS, instructor and advisor to building control is worth more than any half hearted effort to "throw" a stove into a fireplace as an after thought.

    I, along with many other companies, sell flue, so rolling yours eyes is perplexing to say the least.

    I'm not goint to apologise for pointing out that your choice to blatantly ignore manufacturers instructions, along with building and fire regulations is careless to say the least. Being boastful about getting away with such a gamble with your property and the well being of the occupants of the home, does not make it safe practice, nor should it be assumed that because you have got away with it, the next punter will be as lucky, if they follow your tainted advice.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,725 ✭✭✭oleras


    I will be getting one of these next week, not sure which one to pick really, anyone have any of these installed and would you recomend something else maybe ?

    Stovax Huntington 28

    stovaxhuntingdon28multi.jpg

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Nester Martin s23

    s23h.jpg

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Franco Belge savoy MK II

    savoy.jpg

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    I really like the look of the savoy with its large glass front, and >80% effeciency, this is winning i think at the moment.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    Wouldn't fit a stove without a liner...simple as that, as I have repeatedly said within this forum, even though people have questioned my motives. I would walk away from projects quicker than do a half a job, as my reputation as Chariman of the NIACS, instructor and advisor to building control is worth more than any half hearted effort to "throw" a stove into a fireplace as an after thought.

    I, along with many other companies, sell flue, so rolling yours eyes is perplexing to say the least.

    I'm not goint to apologise for pointing out that your choice to blatantly ignore manufacturers instructions, along with building and fire regulations is careless to say the least. Being boastful about getting away with such a gamble with your property and the well being of the occupants of the home, does not make it safe practice, nor should it be assumed that because you have got away with it, the next punter will be as lucky, if they follow your tainted advice.


    I get mine cleaned regularly. There has been none of the build up of creosote that you threatened will happen in my flu. Its minimal dirty with each clean.
    My harth has not 18" in front . If everyone that fitted a stove had to put 18" of marble(or metal) in front of there stoves then you would not sell many. .
    How can Building regs suggest less for an open fire than a closed stove. Stanley are playing that one well safe . If you are telling me that every stove you ever sold or fitted had 18" in front then I would have big doubts on the truth of your posts.

    I am not boasting or advising(in fact the opposite) and know my set up does not comply , which will be remedied when rip off irish suppliers can come up with a realistic price for a bit of thin stainless or steel pipe. Im finding UK prices a whole lot easier to take than Irish prices. Delivered to the north.

    I do know I need to line my new clay liners. AS SAID several times in the thread. And will.

    When are you guys going to realize that normal people dont have 1000s+ to spend on stoves and flu systems.

    For everyone else.

    I dont recommend using clay flu adapters as there has been a few cases where it has been proved unsafe due to Creosote deposits and bad adapter quality .


    I do recommend the little oisin . Mine is working great for years and no where near the bad quality as one person has suggested on here. No matter what country it was cast in. It is far from scrap metal. And does have a warranty .


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    So, in summary, Sooty is pointing out that gsxr1's stove is not installed fully by the book. gsxr1 is acknowledging that but also the reality that its very expensive to install a stove properly and by the book.

    That a fair summary? Not many of the hardware shops who sell stoves seem to be telling people that.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    Dilbert75 wrote: »
    So, in summary, Sooty is pointing out that gsxr1's stove is not installed fully by the book. gsxr1 is acknowledging that but also the reality that its very expensive to install a stove properly and by the book.

    That a fair summary? Not many of the hardware shops who sell stoves seem to be telling people that.

    i guess that sums it up perfectly.

    I have plans to remove the metal back plate and make a hole big enough to fit the stove into , thus the elimination of two 45 degree angles on the flu and bringing the harth clearance in to spec.

    I am also trying to source the cheapest price on the specified flu linner.

    Although I can do all the work myself it is still going to cost a small fortune.

    until then I will be keeping a good eye as I always have on the lit stove.

    Sooty. I apologize for my stern reaction to your criticism . I do understand you are only trying to give expert advise.
    now . could you sell me a half price liner please:D


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    i guess that sums it up perfectly.

    I have plans to remove the metal back plate and make a hole big enough to fit the stove into , thus the elimination of two 45 degree angles on the flu and bringing the harth clearance in to spec.

    I am also trying to source the cheapest price on the specified flu linner.

    Although I can do all the work myself it is still going to cost a small fortune.

    until then I will be keeping a good eye as I always have on the lit stove.

    Sooty. I apologize for my stern reaction to your criticism . I do understand you are only trying to give expert advise.
    now . could you sell me a half price liner please:D


    Excel Industries,Coolmine Ind Estate,Blanchardstown.

    I got 10 meters of 6 inch wide twin wall stainless steel flexi flue liner from them,for feck all money.:D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10 leojake


    hi i got a price off 800 euros for a aran stove + 9 metres of liner all i need is somebody to install it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    don't know your location but try www.stovefit.com. Haven't used him yet - very likely will do - but he seems ok from my dealings with him and works nationwide.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 herlip


    Currently in the design phase of a new build and looking for info about the stove and flue.
    The architect has design the house to one chimney stack in the center of the house which looks good. The problem we have is that we want to put a stove into another room which is roughly 3 meters away from the chimney stack.

    Is it possible to the run the flue out of the of the room and turn it 90dg towards the chimney stack?

    good idea/bad idea?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭demanufactured


    herlip wrote: »
    Currently in the design phase of a new build and looking for info about the stove and flue.
    The architect has design the house to one chimney stack in the center of the house which looks good. The problem we have is that we want to put a stove into another room which is roughly 3 meters away from the chimney stack.

    Is it possible to the run the flue out of the of the room and turn it 90dg towards the chimney stack?

    good idea/bad idea?

    bad bad idea


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    kodak wrote: »
    Hi,

    I got my flue off mi flues in summer hill. They will quote you on flue if you send them a list of flue parts. I think they will also design it for you, if you need it.

    Perhaps you should look at Doherty FLues in the UK. http://www.docherty.co.uk/#Vitmaster

    They are very good products. Not sure about a stockist here thou.. I got some thrown in with my stove, came from england..

    As a registered chimney technician and flue installer I wouldn't use ANYTHING other than Docherty Chimney Group products..I've tried them all over the last 20 years and most have let me down. We stock the Docherty flues if anyone needs any, we are about 30 minute from Newry.

    ;-)


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    herlip wrote: »
    Currently in the design phase of a new build and looking for info about the stove and flue.
    The architect has design the house to one chimney stack in the center of the house which looks good. The problem we have is that we want to put a stove into another room which is roughly 3 meters away from the chimney stack.

    Is it possible to the run the flue out of the of the room and turn it 90dg towards the chimney stack?

    good idea/bad idea?

    Madness....90 degree bends are not allowed in the solid fuel insustry, and the maximum you can run a flue pipe horizontal from the appliance is 150mm (6")

    If you want to send plans from teh architect through we can have a look at them for you and see what can be done.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    Dilbert75 wrote: »
    don't know your location but try www.stovefit.com. Haven't used him yet - very likely will do - but he seems ok from my dealings with him and works nationwide.

    LOL the fact that the logo of Stove fit shows an illegal installation would be a trifle concerning to say the least and the recent project pictures are of one installation, which does not comply to Irish building regulations, and the termination point of the flue is in the wrong position, which will more than likely lead to pressure problems, plus so much twin wall exposed to the outside elements, will act as a cooling effect on the gasses which will encourage the chimney to clog up.

    Interesting....


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,599 ✭✭✭Fiskar


    Thought that website was a DIY outfit, no location or landline. Fit outs not to be recommended.
    Get a pro who knows what the regs are and the minimum height for the flue.


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    oleras wrote: »
    I will be getting one of these next week, not sure which one to pick really, anyone have any of these installed and would you recomend something else maybe ?

    Stovax Huntington 28

    stovaxhuntingdon28multi.jpg

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Nester Martin s23

    s23h.jpg

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Franco Belge savoy MK II

    savoy.jpg

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    I really like the look of the savoy with its large glass front, and >80% effeciency, this is winning i think at the moment.

    British manufactured Clearview Vision 500. 8KW with optional external air system, double glazed so the glass remains clear all the time, not just for brochure photos. One of the most efficient stoves in the world, the first in the world so clean burning it was approved for burning wood in smoke controlled areas, and the adjustable door handle and hinge ensure air tightness, unlike the cast (PIG ???) iron stoves, to ensure controlled burning ie fuel efficiency.

    Read revies on www.whatstove.co.uk or

    http://www.countydownstovesandflues.co.uk/vision-500.html

    Just another one to think about, and in stock now. ;-}


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    Fiskar wrote: »
    Thought that website was a DIY outfit, no location or landline. Fit outs not to be recommended.
    Get a pro who knows what the regs are and the minimum height for the flue.

    It always helps Fiskar....Insurance is worth buggar all if the stove doesn't comply...not much fun when the house is burnt down, or someone is overcome by Carbon Monoxide poisoning.


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    i guess that sums it up perfectly.

    I have plans to remove the metal back plate and make a hole big enough to fit the stove into , thus the elimination of two 45 degree angles on the flu and bringing the harth clearance in to spec.

    I am also trying to source the cheapest price on the specified flu linner.

    Although I can do all the work myself it is still going to cost a small fortune.

    until then I will be keeping a good eye as I always have on the lit stove.

    Sooty. I apologize for my stern reaction to your criticism . I do understand you are only trying to give expert advise.
    now . could you sell me a half price liner please:D

    Docherty Chimney Group liner...904 grade is £198 per m...less 60% trade discount is about £79 per m.....20 year warranty, with data plate etc. You will need an adapter to join liner to stove flue pipe and a pot hanger, both for less than £100 and then some vermiculite....shipping would be more, but you can collect and get a quick lesson on installation at the showroom before you leave, plus a good cup of coffee in front of a Clearview stove to see what you can save up for later on....simple


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Excel Industries,Coolmine Ind Estate,Blanchardstown.

    I got 10 meters of 6 inch wide twin wall stainless steel flexi flue liner from them,for feck all money.:D

    But you might have got Feck all then....Split flex.JPG

    rotten flue jpeg 1.jpg rotten flue jpeg.jpg

    These images are 316 grade liner, bought from Northern Irish manufacturer, and was less than 3 years old....the customer complained when vermiculite was spilling INTO the stove.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    ;)
    Docherty Chimney Group liner...904 grade is £198 per m...less 60% trade discount is about £79 per m.....20 year warranty, with data plate etc. You will need an adapter to join liner to stove flue pipe and a pot hanger, both for less than £100 and then some vermiculite....shipping would be more, but you can collect and get a quick lesson on installation at the showroom before you leave, plus a good cup of coffee in front of a Clearview stove to see what you can save up for later on....simple


    Stainless twin walled 6 inch flexi liner works out at 70 EURO per meter from a well known supplier in Blanchardstown,Dublin 15.;)

    I have a brand spanking new stainless steel pot hanger cowl here,complete with anti bird guard,that is of no use to me if anyone is interested.;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    paddy147 wrote: »
    ;)


    Stainless twin walled 6 inch flexi liner works out at 70 EURO per meter from a well known supplier in Blanchardstown,Dublin 15.;)

    I have a brand spanking new stainless steel pot hanger cowl here,complete with anti bird guard,that is of no use to me if anyone is interested.;)

    As long as it is 904 grade if you are using coal as well as wood/turf you should be fine. Triple locking is what makes Docherty Flue more expensive, but the reason we use it is simple. If you had been a chimney sweep for 20+ years like me, and found the inner skin of cheaper flue unravel during the sweeping process after a year or so, you would use it too. Not cheap but as with everything in life, you get what you pay for, and there is a reason why companies put a higher price tag on product.


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    paddy147 wrote: »
    ;)


    Stainless twin walled 6 inch flexi liner works out at 70 EURO per meter from a well known supplier in Blanchardstown,Dublin 15.;)

    I have a brand spanking new stainless steel pot hanger cowl here,complete with anti bird guard,that is of no use to me if anyone is interested.;)

    Your pot hanger is only going to be suitable if you are not going to bother putting the insulation around the flue, which is considered only half a job by the techinicans who understand flues.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    im guessing that using a pot hanger instead on insulation would still cause condensation on the clay flu


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Your pot hanger is only going to be suitable if you are not going to bother putting the insulation around the flue, which is considered only half a job by the techinicans who understand flues.


    Eh mate,I dont have any use for that pot hanger and also mate............

    My chimney/Stovax multi fuel inset stove is done propperly too.Propperly installed,lined,insulated and sealed by professional installers.

    Just to point that out to you.;)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    im guessing that using a pot hanger instead on insulation would still cause condensation on the clay flu

    A pot hanger is only used if you are not going to use vermiculite around the flexi GSXR1. The inner locking band is designed to suspend the flue from the cap itself, while the outer locking band straps to the pot. If you are insulating the steel, the inner locking band is not required, as the insulation becomes a support for the flexi, as well as keeping flue temperatures stable, hence the reduced risk on condensates building up in the flue. The clay liners, once the flexi is used are redundant, and don't come into the equation, but merely act as a vessel to hold all this system together within the chimney.


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Eh mate,I dont have any use for that pot hanger and also mate............

    My chimney/Stovax multi fuel inset stove is done propperly too.Propperly installed,lined,insulated and sealed by professional installers.

    Just to point that out to you.;)

    I was merely pointing out to anyone intereted in your pot hanger, as to how it was used MATE. You seem to be confused into thinking I was criticising your installation, even though I have never seen it.

    It seems to be a common trend here to shoot down the messenger. Perhaps I should not bother giving my advice freely to the Boards forum especially when companies actually pay me to give seminars up here in the North and my time could be better spent. The fact is, I feel very strongly that some of the information and materials etc available North and South of our border is either very good, acceptable or just plain crap, and trying to help people make an informed choice is why our showroom is bombarded with phone calls, emails and visitors from all over the island. We must be doing something right for a woman to come up from Cork recently, as one of her neighbours we supplied stoves to, told her we were the only company she would ever recommend because we spoke sense, and she loves her stoves.

    I'm glad you got your stove installed correctly, and is hopefully working well and safely. Solid fuel installations should not be considered a simple DIY project, but with the correct information and materials it can be. All too often stoves and flue are being sold with limited or conflicting advice, and that is why I sit here typing...hoping I make a difference so that you don't become a statistic....mate.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    I was merely pointing out to anyone intereted in your pot hanger, as to how it was used MATE. You seem to be confused into thinking I was criticising your installation, eve though I have never seen it.

    It seems to be a common trend here to shoot down the messenger. Perhaps I should not bother giving my advice freely to the Boards forum especially when companies actually pay me to give seminars up here in the North and my time could be better spent. The fact is, I feel very strongly that some of the information and materials etc available North and South of our border is either very good, acceptable or just plain crap, and trying to help people make an informed choice is why our showroom is bombarded with phone calls, emails and visitors from all over the island. We must be doing something right for a woman to come up from Cork recently, as one of her neighbours we supplied stoves to, told her we were the only company she would ever recommend because we spoke sense, and she loves her stoves.

    I'm glad you got your stove installed correctly, and is hopefully working well and safely. Solid fuel installations should not be considered a simple DIY project, but with the correct information and materials it can be. All too often stoves and flue are being sold with limited or conflicting advice, and that is why I sit here typing...hoping I make a difference so that you don't become a statistic....mate.


    Did I say anything or mention anything about it being a DIY job??NO.

    You say "Hopefully" my stove is working well??

    No mate,no hopeing about it,it IS DONE professionaly by a very reputable fireplace company and Stovax Stove retailer,and working perfectly.

    With regards your comments about you posting on the forum..............

    Dont bother then,if you dont want to.Nobody is forcing you to post.
    But dont come on here lording it up every time though.

    All your posts have to be better than everyone elses,like you are looking down your nose at us all.

    Someone says something,and you have to knock them and have a better reply all the time.You knock other peoples products,and seem to only promote and praise stuff that you use/sell (ironic or what).Everything and everyone else is wrong and you are right.

    I dont doubt that you know your stuff,other members know their stuff too,buts its the MANNER and TONE in the way you post the replies all the time,that all us mere mortals supposedly havent a clue what we are on about and only you knows everything.You belittle people alot of the time.

    It comes accross on alot of threads you have posted on here.


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Did I say anything or mention anything about it being a DIY job??NO.

    You say "Hopefully" my stove is working well??

    No mate,no hopeing about it,it IS DONE professionaly by a very reputable fireplace company and Stovax Stove retailer,and working perfectly.

    With regards your comments about you posting on the forum..............

    Dont bother then,if you dont want to.Nobody is forcing you to post.
    But dont come on here lording it up every time though.

    All your posts have to be better than everyone elses,like you are looking down your nose at us all.

    Someone says something,and you have to knock them and have a better reply all the time.You knock other peoples products,and seem to only promote and praise stuff that you use/sell (ironic or what).Everything and everyone else is wrong and you are right.

    I dont doubt that you know your stuff,other members know their stuff too,buts its the MANNER and TONE in the way you post the replies all the time,that all us mere mortals supposedly havent a clue what we are on about and only you knows everything.You belittle people alot of the time.

    It comes accross on alot of threads you have posted on here.

    I didn't say anything about your job being DIY at any stage from what I can gather, so I would question where that one came out of. I did point out that some info coming from forums and some retailers would suggest that it can be a "SIMPLE" do it yourself project, which could be dangerous. Each job is different. I did say I was glad you had yours installed correctly. The "hopefully" part was meant to confirm that if a reputable company has installed it the way it should have been done, the way professionals would lead you to believe it should, that the stove is performing well. Thank you for confirming to us all that this is the case.

    I am on record within Boards to state there are many other good stoves on the market and indeed flex liner is fine as long as it is of the correct grade for the fuel you choose to burn, the correct diameter and is constructed correctly when being produced. I have been bitten by some that were not perhaps as good a quality as I was led to believe, so I did my homework and learnt about what I needed to look out for, and am just letting you all know what I found.

    Your Stovax is a good make of stove, and in fact one of my stoves at home is a Stovax Riva 55. It works very well, and apart from the glass not staying as clean as I would like, I would not be taking it out unnecesarily...it was too bloody expensive. Other good stoves would be Charnwood, Villager, Yeoman, Morso, Jotul to name but a few along with the Clearview stoves we sell...where is the problem? Some people swear by their Stanley stove, and that is OK too. (gsxr1 ;-} ) I have sold, and fitted all sorts, over the years, and the better ones always seem to keep their heads and shoulders above the rest.

    I would never look down my nose at anyone, and anyone that has dealt with us over the forums or in the showroom would know that. I have tried to be helpful and explain things as well as I can in a language everyone can understand. Perhaps reading text on a screen does not portray the subtle expressions you would pick up by listening to voice or seeing facial expression.

    I don't deny that I have spent years learning my trade, and often get a little heated under the collar when I think advice is not as accurate as it should be, but I am not going to apologise for that. If I had a pound or Euro for everyone who has told me they have found my posts helpful and informative I would be doing nicely, but that is why forums are run, to help each other out.

    I can't see where I have belittled you at all today Paddy. I did say that the pot hanger you were trying to get rid of was only going to be able to be used if someone was not going to insulate the flue, if that is what you mean. Also the fact that you got something for "Feck All Money" was suggesting that it was a good deal for you...again hopefully for you it was, but for many it hasn't, so I was just posting images of others that have been less fortunate when their good deal turned sour.

    My posts are better than others???? I don't know why. It is just conversation and people offering suggestions and recommendations to each other. I do find amusement in some posts, as I am sure we all do at times, and maybe one fault I have is I type quicker than I think, but it's only opinion coming out, and is not meant to offend ANYONE...and if that is what you feel I have done, then I am sorry for that, and to anyone else that feels this way, but I'm not going to apologise for giving the advice I give if it is in the interests of safety.

    Manner and tone are something that can be misinterpreted when reading text on a screen. I'm sure everyone has read a facebook message or text message and it has been taken completely out of context. I am hoping that is the case here. Sarcasm, and tongue in cheek statements are dangerous when a keyboard is the only way of communicating on forums, and I suppose lessons need to be learnt.

    Best regards


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    Fiskar wrote: »
    Thought that website was a DIY outfit, no location or landline.

    Its not. His location is Templemore, Co. Tipperary. His mobile number is there because he's the one you talk to. Does "Our site is currently under construction. Thank your for your patience." mean nothing?
    Fit outs not to be recommended.
    No idea what you mean by this.
    Get a pro who knows what the regs are
    He's put himself through HETAS training
    and the minimum height for the flue.
    If you can tell what height the flue is from the thumbnail photos on his site, you should be getting big money from someone for doing it. Reminds me of a guy I used to work with who reckoned he could tell if a machine was misaligned by thousandths of an inch over maybe 20 feet. Never did see the calibration certificate for his eyes...


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    Dilbert75 wrote: »
    Its not. His location is Templemore, Co. Tipperary. His mobile number is there because he's the one you talk to. Does "Our site is currently under construction. Thank your for your patience." mean nothing?


    No idea what you mean by this.


    He's put himself through HETAS training


    If you can tell what height the flue is from the thumbnail photos on his site, you should be getting big money from someone for doing it. Reminds me of a guy I used to work with who reckoned he could tell if a machine was misaligned by thousandths of an inch over maybe 20 feet. Never did see the calibration certificate for his eyes...

    Dilbert perhaps you could give me some advice. I have wanted to know for a long time how to post comments at different positions within a post to reply to different points. I would be indebted if you could tell me please.

    I must admit I did find some points about breakouts, height etc a problem as I had not seen any reference to that on the site, but there were a few fundamental problems with it, and even my wife picked up on the 90 degree bend on the logo as soon as she saw it.

    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    I'm sure you'll be the first to admit that it doesn't really matter if the website is top class as long as the product/service is - a good example would be www.clearviewstoves.com.

    If an installation drawing showed that, I'd be worried. What's on his logo doesn't bother me hugely. Actually looks like an attempt might have been made to make the logo into an S and/or an F for Stove Fit.... Probably paid a graphic designer quite a few quid to do it too...

    To place text in individual quotes, just paste it between
    and
    (removing the spaces).


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    Dilbert75 wrote: »
    I'm sure you'll be the first to admit that it doesn't really matter if the website is top class as long as the product/service is - a good example would be www.clearviewstoves.com.
    Quite right. I know that Helen and Jonathan have had a new site produced as well as a new brochure, but I believe they are working on a new model for the range and will launch everything at the same time as the stove, but I hear what you are saying. I believe that because Jonathan takes care of everything himself and perhaps doesn't delegate as well as he should, the site and marketing may have taken a back seat, but he has an excellent product that has sold all over the world for nearly 30 years, so something is working.
    If an installation drawing showed that, I'd be worried. What's on his logo doesn't bother me hugely. Actually looks like an attempt might have been made to make the logo into an S and/or an F for Stove Fit.... Probably paid a graphic designer quite a few quid to do it too...
    There may be a case for the stove and flue to look like a letter, and if it is anything like the graphic designer we had working for us, it would have cost a few quid, but they design to your spec, taking your advice before they put pen to paper or mouse to tablet I suppose it is now.

    I have worked out what components would have been used for the twin wall and also the manufacturer of the flue from the project pictures, but the boru stove he has used looks like the Carraig Beag which is an 8KW stove, seems rather close to the skirting board for my liking. The flue would also have to have a horizontal flue running quite a distance through the wall, certainly more than the HETAS agreed distance of 150mm, unless he has used a 45 degree immediately off the stove and into a 45 degree "t" and plug on the external with a base support system to bear the weight of the flue. It would be nice to see how it had been done out of curiosity.
    To place text in individual quotes, just paste it between
    and
    (removing the spaces).[/QUOTE]
    Thanks for the advice on how to post. This is the first time I have tried so if it goes belly up, please excuse the way this has posted


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    If you edit that to remove the spaces between the word "quote" and the closed square brackets, it should look a wee bit better...
    is the instruction to open a quote and
    is the instruction to close the quote (removing the spaces). So to quote, your text would look like
    saying I quite like Clearview stoves is like saying Ireland is quite broke
    (without the spaces) ends up as
    saying I quite like Clearview stoves is like saying Ireland is quite broke


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    Dilbert75 wrote: »
    If you edit that to remove the spaces between the word "quote" and the closed square brackets, it should look a wee bit better...
    is the instruction to open a quote and
    is the instruction to close the quote (removing the spaces). So to quote, your text would look like
    and I guess this is where you want the E100 off the cost of your inset as a gesture of goodwill for showing me how to do this quoting business ;-}
    saying I quite like Clearview stoves is like saying Ireland is quite broke
    (without the spaces) ends up as
    Thank you


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