soild fuel stove advise

copper12

That’s a big stove yet doesn’t look out of place in this room
30x15 I would say
Looks good already how have you tied it into your heating system

bbam

copper12 wrote: »

30x15 I would say

Right on the money there...its a 30x15 living-dining area, kitchen is seperate..

We have a triple coil SS 300l tank...
Condensing boiler is split on 2 zones, up/down but the stove isn't zoned and by-passes the zoning valves..

Looking forward to lighting her up soon...

SLan.

gsxr1

thats a cracking stove. the size of it!! thats going to be one toasty room.

looks great.

bbam

Thanks for the comments folks... we're on track to move in mid January. There is 100,000BTU boiler so hopefully not only the room will be cosy ..
I have access to a good deal of free timber on the farm and plan to plant popular & willow to harvest in the future... fingers crossed we'll be cutting our current heating costs to 30% in the new house.

demanufactured

timber is great when its free!!
One thing i will say about having a stove , its a good idea to burn a couple of buckets of cosyglo or ecobrite every once in a while , it helps clean out the crud that gets left by burning wood/turf.

gsxr1

bbam wrote: »

Thanks for the comments folks... we're on track to move in mid January. There is 100,000BTU boiler so hopefully not only the room will be cosy ..
I have access to a good deal of free timber on the farm and plan to plant popular & willow to harvest in the future... fingers crossed we'll be cutting our current heating costs to 30% in the new house.

I cut down a tree 2 weeks ago. but the wood so wet I doubt I will be able to burn it this winter. Conifer tree. The timber is split and stored. Next winter is paid for. Bloody hard word spliting logs all day.

I found Slack to be the best fuel in my stove. 2 scoops . close the door and turn down the air . All day heat.
12 euro for 40kg in kilcock.

bbam

HI..
gsxr1, Ask about a product called "Back Boiler Beans". Great for stove or back boiler (probably obvious from name), chips of coal about the size of a thumb-nail. We had a solid fuel distribution business for years and this was great... My mum uses it in her stove and the heat would meet you at the gate

Slan.

sentenel

Hi BBam
Looking at getting the Hercules 30B myself, do you mind telling us how much it was and where you got it?
cheers
joe

copper12

that’s the thing about cutting and splitting your own wood it heats you up twice
once when splitting and again when burning

bbam

sentenel wrote: »

Hi BBam
Looking at getting the Hercules 30B myself, do you mind telling us how much it was and where you got it?
cheers
joe

I'll PM you the company if you want , just across the border, bought 2 stoves delivered for €1800.

sentenel

Hi bbam
Thanks for the information I'll check it out
cheers
joe

copper12

I was given a prise in cork and tralee last year for 3000 euro for a 30B what a rip off

gabbo is coming

bbam wrote: »

HI..
gsxr1, Ask about a product called "Back Boiler Beans". Great for stove or back boiler (probably obvious from name), chips of coal about the size of a thumb-nail. We had a solid fuel distribution business for years and this was great... My mum uses it in her stove and the heat would meet you at the gate

Slan.

Be careful with the Oisin. My back plate fire brick is vertically cracked in two *already*, and all I burn is peat briquettes - no coal. I'd say if I burnt coal the stove would explode!

Going to get on to Waterford Stanley - what a gip...I assume they'll send out a new one.

gsxr1

gabbo is coming wrote: »

Be careful with the Oisin. My back plate fire brick is vertically cracked in two *already*, and all I burn is peat briquettes - no coal. I'd say if I burnt coal the stove would explode!

Going to get on to Waterford Stanley - what a gip...I assume they'll send out a new one.

Are you sure it was not defective.

the manual recommends anthracite coal. which burns so hot it can not be used in open fires.

For instant heat I use timber. For 24hr warmth . Ye can beat coal.

I got 2 bags of ECO_LITE coal on friday. It burns really hot. 9 euro a bag(20kg. Still cant beat slack for value for money though.

gsxr1

Just had my stove on full to clean it.

was going flat out with slack for 20 min.

Is it normal for the flu pipe at the back to glow red with a full blast burn??

jack of all

This is how the stove looks in my sitting room.

dlambirl

jack of all wrote: »

This is how the stove looks in my sitting room.

Looks lovely.

gsxr1

jack of all wrote: »

This is how the stove looks in my sitting room.

looks great. But ya wanna finish that cup of tea before it gets cold;)

jack of all

Cheers! I just stick my cup up on the hotplate if it gets cool!

copper12

Looks brilliant really looks the piece
Nice bit of timber as well how long would these baskets last an evening or more

jack of all

I burn mostly Eco Brite smokeless fuel and maybe 6 or so pieces of timber in an evening. The wood blocks are small enough as I split it pretty small to facilitate quicker drying anyway.Timber is great for quick heat but doesn't last very long. When fully fired up and burning for a couple of hours I have to leave the room door open, the heat can be oppressive!

gsxr1

jack of all wrote: »

I burn mostly Eco Brite smokeless fuel and maybe 6 or so pieces of timber in an evening. The wood blocks are small enough as I split it pretty small to facilitate quicker drying anyway.Timber is great for quick heat but doesn't last very long. When fully fired up and burning for a couple of hours I have to leave the room door open, the heat can be oppressive!

I cant sit in the room with my oisin on full. all doors open and it still to hot.

I had to open the window one night. Not a bad complant though.

I burn through dry logs very quick as well. I have 3 trees cut down and stored . For all the work I did, I cant see them lasting long once dry.

jack of all

gsxr1 wrote: »

I burn through dry logs very quick as well. I have 3 trees cut down and stored . For all the work I did, I cant see them lasting long once dry.

Agreed, I've a second load of timber waiting to be split, thought I'd have it split, stored and seasoning for next year, say I'll be burning it a bit sooner than I planned!

Minder

I would like to install a wood burner in a single storey extension at the back of the house. There is no chimney in place in the room. The room is large - 9m x 4m. I have read some info in the building regs regarding the distance required for a new flue from the main house and I think I can install a wood burner on the exterior wall - the flue will be just under 4m horziontally from the upper storey windows. My questions:
Can I install a flue pipe in the room without a chimney?
Also how do I calculate the height of the flue required to ensure adequate draw on the fire?
Is there a safe working height for the external flue before it requires additional propping?

Any thoughts?

gabbo is coming

gabbo is coming wrote: »

Be careful with the Oisin. My back plate fire brick is vertically cracked in two *already*, and all I burn is peat briquettes - no coal. I'd say if I burnt coal the stove would explode!

Going to get on to Waterford Stanley - what a gip...I assume they'll send out a new one.

DHL-ed a new one out to me, no questions. That's service.

gabbo is coming

jack of all wrote: »

This is how the stove looks in my sitting room.

Deadly.

jack of all

Minder wrote: »

Can I install a flue pipe in the room without a chimney?
Also how do I calculate the height of the flue required to ensure adequate draw on the fire?
Is there a safe working height for the external flue before it requires additional propping?

Any thoughts?

This crowd: http://www.miflues.ie should be able to advise, I know it's possible, my mate has an external twin wall, insulated flue on his single storey extension and it works well.

RKQ

Minder wrote: »

Also how do I calculate the height of the flue required to ensure adequate draw on the fire?

Homebond recomment a flue height of 4.5m above floor level, for single storey buildings, to ensure a proper draw.

cubix

Lads was never a big fan of stove like fires but am curious as to why they give out more heat and less up the chimney than a normal open fire?

gsxr1

cubix wrote: »

Lads was never a big fan of stove like fires but am curious as to why they give out more heat and less up the chimney than a normal open fire?

th flames and gases are directed around the inside of the stove. before going up the chimney. The heat sinks into the cast iron and fire bricks case before going up the flu. Plus there is much greater control of burn rate by throttling intake air. Making a little fuel go a long way.

Eurorunner

In addition to the above, when not in use, the chimney is effectively sealed when the stove spigot is closed.

cubix

Cheers lads, how hot does the out side of the stove get. IF the kids touched off it accedently. IF you were stuck for stuff to burn would it fair well with woods that spit alot.

jack of all

It gets very hot and very young children must be supervised around it, still far safer than an open fire. I wouldn't be as anxious about my children with a stove as I used be with the open fire. Don't burn wet wood in your stove, it will only contribute to creosote build up in your flue.

blackbox

cubix wrote: »

Cheers lads, how hot does the out side of the stove get. IF the kids touched off it accedently. IF you were stuck for stuff to burn would it fair well with woods that spit alot.

As Jack says, the outside gets very hot and kids must be supervised, but at least they can't fall into it like an open fire. With small kids you should use a guard.

The stove is great with wood that spits and sparks such as pine, as it is completely contained and won't let sparks on the carpet. As with all fires, wood should be well dried.

jack of all

blackbox wrote: »

The stove is great with wood that spits and sparks such as pine, as it is completely contained and won't let sparks on the carpet. As with all fires, wood should be well dried.

I should have said that I burn well seasoned softwood (spruce, building off cuts etc) which spit and spark, wouldn't do this in an open fire!

cubix

Cheers lads, think I might be converted:D. The problem now is that I have seen some fancy pants ones that go into your wall so it gives the visual effect of floating. But I am sure these are quite alot more expensive when compared to an oisin

jack of all

I priced a Stovax cassette fire for someone else recently, you're talking about €1550 for the fire alone (add on for surround, hearth etc). Pricey but lovely looking job and a very good stove too, apparently.

Kat1170

Any tip's on cleaning soot off the front glass.

niceirishfella

Kat1170 wrote: »

Any tip's on cleaning soot off the front glass.

good scrub when cold of a scouring pad with some soapy warm water and then a scrape of an olde style razor blade - works a treat.:)

webels

Kat1170 wrote: »

Any tip's on cleaning soot off the front glass.

Dip a wet cloth in ash and rub this to the glass followed by a dry cloth to clear the glass - works well

gsxr1

they wont get dirty if you keep the heat turned up. they self clean.

But few cant take that heat.


I keep a bottle of viniger and newspaper. wet the newspapper with viniger and dip in ash. comes up like new. I keep a scrapper that takes stanley blades in the cubourd to get the caked in stains.

gabbo is coming

Hello,

I have the Oisin, as in the picture below. Am a bit uncomfortable about the distance from the door of the Oisin to the wooden floors. It's only about 100mm. In the long term, I want to take out the cast iron surround, make an opening in the wall wide enough to fit in the oisin and then get a custom cast iron surrond that will fit perfectly with the stove.

But in the short term - is there anything I can do to extend the marble fireplace out. People have suggested calling in to a headstone shop and getting a strip of marble and no more nails it on to the existing marble.


Is there another material I could use - is there such a thing as a fireproof mat/rug? It's just if something falls out of the fire it will immediately mark the existing floor, and also if some spark were to fall out that I didn't notice....

Any ideas appreciated.

ash_kay

Kat1170 wrote: »

Any tip's on cleaning soot off the front glass.

As the others mentioned, if you keep the temperature up in the stove you shouldn't have too many problems with soot on the glass.

When I made the mistake of burning slightly damp wood, it left a horrible sticky, cresotey deposit on the glass. I found JML Spotless paste great for cleaning it off with minimal effort. http://www.jmldirect.com/showimage.asp?currency=EUR&title=Spotless+400g&pf_id=S1346&image=images/products/large/pf_S1346.jpg Damnit, they should be paying me commission I've recommended it to so many people over the last year

fmcc

Hi Gabbo there is a small stove tray froma acompany called blackwater crafts a stove shop should be able to get it they sell for about €100 they are basicly a drawer that sits under the stove and bolts pressed againest the bottom of the stove keep it in place. When opeing the door of the stove for fueling or cleaning you pull out the drawer first and it catches any falling soot/ash. The small one fits and Oisin type pretty well.

Kat1170

Thanks for the replys re. cleaning the glass. Have found that the wet cloth dipped in the ash works perfectly. Who'd have thought.

gsxr1

gabbo.

My set up is similar to yours.

I have had coal fall out onto the rug.

I have learned not to stack the coal to high as it can fall off the heap and out the door.

I also keep a set of tongs and a big tile at the ready .

I belive that even if you had a bigger hearth. The hot coal would still bonce off onto the floor. If you lift it quick enough then there will be little damage(unless the wife's favorite rug is there!!!!!) ..


As for kids. My 4 year old lad touched it when hot. He will never do it again. He was warned but never realised what burny meant till then.

He gives it a wide berth now. Harsh lesson he learned, but a very useful one.


I was comparing my gas bill to the same time last year.

It was 90 euro for the last 2 months.
2007 Oct-Dec bill was 240

the house is warmer by far and the savings are obvious and the enviromental carbon issues are also a big bonus. (I use slack 25% of the time and timber 75%)
Still very happy with my conversion.

blackiebest

Hi, I am a big fan of stoves and heat my small house almost exclusively with wood. I use a Morso squirrell with a back boiler for house heating but decided to fit another stove in a small room to replace a badly fitted fireplace. I bought form www.windysmithy,co.uk the 'Arthur' and find it superb, massive heat, can chuck in 450mm logs and will easily burn 24 hours with just spruce. Total cost 365euro. Lovely guy also

sullivan0067

I would appreciate some feedback from anyone who has this Solid fuel stove. I am considering it along with a Stanley Aisling for heating an old stone cottage with is being renovated. It will be used as the primary heat/hot water source backed up with an oil system.
Any experiences good or bad would be appreciated.

Thanks

Eurorunner

Folks - i'm sure it was mentioned on boards before but can't seem to find it. I want to paint the stainless steel flue coming out of the back of the Stove. Which type of paint do I need to ask for??

Reyman

I'm thinking of putting in a Stanley. I have two options :

1. Clear out the fireback and insert the stove so that it's front is flush with the fireplace
2. Place the stove in front of the existing fireplace on the hearth so that it's more 'in the room'.

My question is: Is option 1 less efficient i.e. is a lot less heat radiated into the room? Intuitively I think option 2 has to give off more heat, because all four sides of the stove are radiating heat?

Anybody got any solid facts on this?