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what's it to you?

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  • 11-10-2008 5:33am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 8,196 ✭✭✭


    just cos it's an overly warm saturday afternoon and there's no surf in my locality, just wondering... what is surfing to you?

    i started the day before easter this year. so very much still a grommie. not exactly got a natural flair for it either, but, as my instructor has commented numerous times... i've definitely "got the bug". at this point, if there's surf, that's where you'll definitely find me at weekends, and now that winter's over, im intending using those extra hours of light to surf before i come home from work too.

    not to mention that my fella has finally agreed to genuinely contemplate letting us move to a flat by the beach.

    in less than a year, i've become totally hooked, and i can't genuinely imagine living far from the beach and not surfing. i get agitated when i can't get out, and i love being out there so much... a mate's described it as his daily 'soul soak', and that's exactly what it feels like for me.

    it's kinda become a lifestyle for me, more than a sport, and basically, was just wondering how others around here look at it, or how do you enjoy it?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 7,639 ✭✭✭PeakOutput


    and now that winter's over, im intending using those extra hours of light to surf before i come home from work too

    unless your in the southern hemisphere i think your a wee bit confused :p

    i dont know what it means to me as iv only been like 3 times but last week was the first time going out with actual mates (really good surfers) and something just clicked(still couldnt stand up) but i was like yes this is were i want to be


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,196 ✭✭✭Crumble Froo


    PeakOutput wrote: »
    unless your in the southern hemisphere i think your a wee bit confused :p

    sorry, i seem to be forever mentioning it on other fora, but yeah, im in new zealand :D
    i dont know what it means to me as iv only been like 3 times but last week was the first time going out with actual mates (really good surfers) and something just clicked(still couldnt stand up) but i was like yes this is were i want to be

    that sounds about right! i started up surfing here as something to kinda meet people through, as im new here, and dont know anyone, and have always loved the sea... was hooked from the start, but organised a surf weekend with 5 mates while i was back home a couple of weeks ago. my fella is a bit older than me and used to surf back in the day, but man, going out surfing with my mates, just chillin, havin a laugh, gettin competitive, feckin around... wow... i came out just thinking 'wow, so this is what it's all about.'

    unfortunately, ive not really got anyone like that over here yet, but yeah, out iwth my mates was one of the best experiences of my life. so simple, but just something so 'pure' about it too...

    man, im goin soft in my old age...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 96 ✭✭Shane_O


    I always wanted to get out n a board and see what it was like and this girl that im going out with now took me out on her board anout 2 months ago,striaght away was like,this could be good!Bought a second hand board,bought a wetsuit and tried to get out as much as possible,which had only been about 2 or 3 times but ot great surf.Then came home from college the other day and thought ill head down and see if anyones out,load of people out,so headed in with my board,still couldnt stand but getting better.Telling all my friends about it now and they seem to be warming to the idea of getting out.Cant wait for every next time when i get outt of the water.Not a big team sports or any sport player but this really has got me.Gonna try and get out this week as much as possible again,i dont know why but i just have to.

    Like others have said ive got the bug.!:pac:


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