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2nd Fix Carpentry

  • 23-10-2008 10:13am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 19


    Hope to have the heat turned on this week, as it has been such a damp summer does anyone know how long the heat should be on before the internal joinery goes ahead? My builder thinks one week is sufficient...


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,408 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    If you can afford the time i would rather see it running for 3 - 4 weeks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,292 ✭✭✭RKQ


    Muffler is correct. Build it up gradually over a few weeks. This will dry it out slowly avoiding cracks.

    How long are the windows in ?
    Do you have many large south facing windows & doors? (These may have helped dry out the structure over the last few months)

    Ensure the floor slab has dried adequately before laying timber floors - one month per inch thickness, as a rule of thumb.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,410 ✭✭✭bbam


    RKQ wrote: »
    - one month per inch thickness, as a rule of thumb.

    We've had the heating on in ours for nearly 3 weeks.. Does the 1mm per day or 1inch per month still stand in houses with the heating on..

    Our plan is for 2nd fix carpentry in about another 2 weeks and then floors about 8 weeks after the heating went on, about 11 weeks after floor poured.
    Would this be a problem :confused:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 19 ShortPockets


    The windows are in since May/June and the house is plastered since July, also it is drylined, painted and tiled.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,292 ✭✭✭RKQ


    Second fix works should be fine, once heating is built up gradually.

    A floor slab takes 1 month per inch minimum. So let’s say June was 4 months ago, so another two months would be best.

    Naturally the 1-month per inch is counted from the pour date. But some structures are left open to the elements for a long time before its made watertight. Some slabs are water logged during construction, especially in weather like this year. Common sense must be used on an individual basis.

    Check the slab with a moisture meter before laying - a timber floor can be expensive so it would be a shame if it was ruined by a lack of drying out time.
    The longer you can leave the slab to dry out the less chance of a problem. The longer you can leave the timber boards in the room, prior to laying, the better. Timber also has to acclimatise before it’s laid.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,410 ✭✭✭bbam


    On this subject...
    I collected solid floors on Saturday and stacked the packs in the house.. I was planning on just removing the plastic wraping to allow them settle.. is this fine ?
    Thanks
    bam


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,748 ✭✭✭Do-more


    bbam wrote: »
    On this subject...
    I collected solid floors on Saturday and stacked the packs in the house.. I was planning on just removing the plastic wraping to allow them settle.. is this fine ?
    Thanks
    bam

    Ask the supplier for their instructions, after all that's who you will be complaining to if there are any problems!

    invest4deepvalue.com



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,408 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    Do-more wrote: »
    Ask the supplier for their instructions, after all that's who you will be complaining to if there are any problems!
    That is probably the best advice. However if you wanted to remove the plastic wrapping you should ensure that the house is reasonably dry first and still retain plastic at the bottom to prevent contact with the floor until ready to use


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,748 ✭✭✭Do-more


    Most manufacturers indicate that the flooring should be stored flat in the room in which it is to be installed and left in it's packaging until it is being installed. They normally also specify specific contions in relation to the temperature and humidity of the room over a specific lenght of time and will also specify maximum moisture levels for the sub-floor.

    However these often vary from one manufacturer to another, like I said check with your supplier as to their specific instructions, if you do not carry them out to the letter they are perfectly within their rights to reject any claim you may subsequently have.

    invest4deepvalue.com



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,410 ✭✭✭bbam


    thanks for the help


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  • Registered Users Posts: 351 ✭✭pete6296


    Hi Guys,
    What about tiling, does the floor slab need to dry out for this time also. Pouring floors mid December and was hoping to start tiling in mid January.
    Advice appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Pete


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,062 ✭✭✭dlambirl


    Hi Guys,

    Myself and the OH have been building our house for what seems like decades. We poured the floors 4 years ago, roof on and windows in and closed approx 2 years. Plastered during the summer and we've just got the central heating going yesterday. How long will we have to wait until 2nd fixing woodwork can happen? The house is pretty dry and has long enough time to settle so no cracks!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,408 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    dlambirl wrote: »
    Hi Guys,

    Myself and the OH have been building our house for what seems like decades. We poured the floors 4 years ago, roof on and windows in and closed approx 2 years. Plastered during the summer and we've just got the central heating going yesterday. How long will we have to wait until 2nd fixing woodwork can happen? The house is pretty dry and has long enough time to settle so no cracks!
    A lot of moisture is still retained in the floors, walls, ceilings etc and if you have the heating up and running keep it at a low setting and if the house has been sealed for a while you could possibly start 2nd fixing after a week or so but its still dependent on the moisture levels.

    Buy or hire a meter to detect the moisture levels and that way you will be 100% sure


  • Registered Users Posts: 351 ✭✭pete6296


    Hi,
    Would tiles be the same, floors will be poured in december so when would be an ideal time to get tiler in weather permetting of course.
    Pete
    muffler wrote: »
    A lot of moisture is still retained in the floors, walls, ceilings etc and if you have the heating up and running keep it at a low setting and if the house has been sealed for a while you could possibly start 2nd fixing after a week or so but its still dependent on the moisture levels.

    Buy or hire a meter to detect the moisture levels and that way you will be 100% sure


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