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GB heating system

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  • 26-10-2008 10:02am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,685 ✭✭✭


    Hi all, I was talking to a friend last night over a few pints and we were chatting about heating systems, I was telling him my system is GB (Gun Barrell), His eyes nearly popped out "Thats going to rot away on you with rust". Now this is the second time ive heard this. Any truth in this and if so what can be done to prevent it.
    Cheers


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Gun Barrell piping does rot BUT generally only when the combination of water and air is present. This is normally as a result of a leak which will wet a section of pipe and then it happens quite quickly.

    Another example if your boiler house is away from your house and has an underground link this is susceptible, as it may be damp quite a lot.

    Once the pipes are in your house, unless there is something wetting them then its likely that they won't rot. I know houses still on GB piping after 40 years with no problems.

    The other issue comes from inside the pipe. If you have a leak somewhere in the system then your tank is constantly filling with fresh water which contains a higher level of air (oxygen) and this gives better conditions for oxidation (rusting and rotting) of the gunbarrell.

    Final point is that if you do find you have a leak, you'll have to make a call as to whether it's better to replace all at that stage.

    Hope this helps.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,332 ✭✭✭311


    Avns1s is spot on ,Gb pipe will last forever if it's installed correctly.

    Off the top of my head ,theres estates out in malahide that are notorious for having leaking Gun barrel pipes.
    The pipe between the kitchen and the boiler house leak ,because they weren't properly protected. I've had to chase them out of the ground and replace them:(


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Thanks 311. Always nice to get an endorsement! Cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,685 ✭✭✭Payton


    Thanks guys thats put my mind at rest. Has far as I know Ive no leaks, Ive been reading up on an inhibator, some type of liquid that I should have in the pipes? is it worth my while.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    Avns1s wrote: »
    Thanks 311. Always nice to get an endorsement! Cheers

    I agree with the lads. I know quite a few estates coming up to 40 years and many single houses even over that. The GB is still fine. Having said that, I saw GB pipes from a house in one of those estates, where a back boiler had been fitted, and where the water had been let boil and pitch up into the header tank. You couldn't fit a pencil through the pipes, there was so much corrosion.
    Jim.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 44,080 ✭✭✭✭Micky Dolenz


    Thanks guys thats put my mind at rest. Has far as I know Ive no leaks, Ive been reading up on an inhibator, some type of liquid that I should have in the pipes? is it worth my while.


    Inhibitor is easy to add to the system and every system should have it added, so yes it is worth it.

    Easy way to check if you have a leak is to tie up the ballcock in the expansion tank and observe water level over a few days.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    Inhibitor is easy to add to the system and every system should have it added, so yes it is worth it.

    Easy way to check if you have a leak is to tie up the ballcock in the expansion tank and observe water level over a few days.

    Not that easy to add to a sealed system.
    Jim.


  • Registered Users Posts: 44,080 ✭✭✭✭Micky Dolenz


    JamesM wrote: »
    Not that easy to add to a sealed system.
    Jim.

    Even easier actually. It comes in a tube that will fit in a silicone gun. Turn off both sides of radiator and open vent. Besure and catch any water. When water has stopped remove vent completely and pump inhibitor through vent hole using nossle provided. replace vent, turn on rad and away it goes.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    Even easier actually. It comes in a tube that will fit in a silicone gun. Turn off both sides of radiator and open vent. Besure and catch any water. When water has stopped remove vent completely and pump inhibitor through vent hole using nossle provided. replace vent, turn on rad and away it goes.

    You learn something new every day :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,685 ✭✭✭Payton


    Thanks guys, Im replacing the rads upstairs hopefully before xmas at the moment the are only single convectors and im replacing them with double convectors, so I'll add some inhibator while im doing that job.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,685 ✭✭✭Payton


    PS, it's not a sealed system


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