Looking for a tree for heat

gsxr1

I am saving a fortune buy burning off cuts of timber from work.

But want to stock the shed to the roof with logs for my stove.

I have an aldi chainsaw and am bursting to get cutting.


Does anyone know of any felled trees around the Naas area that needs taken away?

old boy

with the aldi chain saw you will a very small tree

gsxr1

old boy wrote: »

with the aldi chain saw you will a very small tree

there is a 16" bar on it. It is middle of the road size. Was cutting today with it. For the price it is surprisingly capable. My friend has a 14" stihl and mine was cutting just as good. his was 800e.

Seen a cheaper one in B&Q this morn 110e. for nothing.

ttm

gsxr1 wrote: »

there is a 16" bar on it. It is middle of the road size. Was cutting today with it. For the price it is surprisingly capable. My friend has a 14" stihl and mine was cutting just as good. his was 800e.

Seen a cheaper one in B&Q this morn 110e. for nothing.

16inch bar you can cut a 32" diameter tree - in theory

Only difference with the B&Q, Lidl and Aldi chainsaws and the like of Stihl and Husquavaran is quality. I've had a 16inch Stihl saw for about 15years (now on its 9th and 10th chain, 5th sprocket and 2nd bar) and its cut most of my firewood in that time (pallets and joinery timber off cuts I cut with a jigsaw - sounds daft but works) now if your Aldi saw is still running in 15 years time let me know.

On the other hand if you can sharpen the chain yourself and it packs up after you've replaced the chain just once at Aldi prices it will have easily paid for itself.

btw any chainsaw with a sharp chain will perform 100% better than even the most expensive with a blunt chain.

gsxr1

ttm wrote: »

16inch bar you can cut a 32" diameter tree - in theory

Only difference with the B&Q, Lidl and Aldi chainsaws and the like of Stihl and Husquavaran is quality. I've had a 16inch Stihl saw for about 15years (now on its 9th and 10th chain, 5th sprocket and 2nd bar) and its cut most of my firewood in that time (pallets and joinery timber off cuts I cut with a jigsaw - sounds daft but works) now if your Aldi saw is still running in 15 years time let me know.

On the other hand if you can sharpen the chain yourself and it packs up after you've replaced the chain just once at Aldi prices it will have easily paid for itself.

btw any chainsaw with a sharp chain will perform 100% better than even the most expensive with a blunt chain.

aldi boxes where all open. I had to check the contents and accidentally ended up with a spare chain.

I would love to have a stihl but could not justify the price to the wife.
and for 130euro, if it blows up I wont lose any sleep. Although it came with a 3 year warranty.

Bloody dangerous things. Could imagine one could lose a limb very easy with a slip. Im sure yas all seen Scarface and the chainsaw scene. Nasty

ttm

gsxr1 wrote: »

aldi boxes where all open. I had to check the contents and accidentally ended up with a spare chain.

I would love to have a stihl but could not justify the price to the wife.
and for 130euro, if it blows up I wont lose any sleep. Although it came with a 3 year warranty.

Bloody dangerous things. Could imagine one could lose a limb very easy with a slip. Im sure yas all seen Scarface and the chainsaw scene. Nasty

I worked professionally with a chainsaw for many years and luckly did not remove any of my own limbs but I have seen all the possible accident situations and to be honest I don't think Aldi et al should be selling such a dangerous tool to the general public. Putting on all the relevant saftey gear before you start at least reminds you what a potentially dangerous tool you are working with - you did buy a pair of chainsaw boots, chainsaw mits, trousers and helmet when you bought the saw?

btw run the two chains alternately on the bar with one sprocket (the bit that is the cog yoke that turns the chain) and replace the sprocket and the two chains when the chains have been filed back (sharpened) till there is nothing left. Thats because the stretch on the chain also becomes wear on the sprocket (and vice versa) putting a new chain on an old worn sprocket just stretches the new chain.

Also google chainsaw sharpening for more info.

gsxr1

ttm wrote: »

I worked professionally with a chainsaw for many years and luckly did not remove any of my own limbs but I have seen all the possible accident situations and to be honest I don't think Aldi et al should be selling such a dangerous tool to the general public. Putting on all the relevant saftey gear before you start at least reminds you what a potentially dangerous tool you are working with - you did buy a pair of chainsaw boots, chainsaw mits, trousers and helmet when you bought the saw?

btw run the two chains alternately on the bar with one sprocket (the bit that is the cog yoke that turns the chain) and replace the sprocket and the two chains when the chains have been filed back (sharpened) till there is nothing left. Thats because the stretch on the chain also becomes wear on the sprocket (and vice versa) putting a new chain on an old worn sprocket just stretches the new chain.

Also google chainsaw sharpening for more info.

all I have is googles steel toe boots and leather gloves. must keep an eye on ebay for the right gear.

I work with skill saws and carpentry tools all day everyday, but nothing in the back of my van do as much damage as the chainsaw.

With all the new safety law we now have, it surprising that chainsaw have been left out. I know timber framers use them for roofing . I wonder if they are allowed on site/??/

ttm

gsxr1 wrote: »

all I have is googles steel toe boots and leather gloves. must keep an eye on ebay for the right gear.

I work with skill saws and carpentry tools all day everyday, but nothing in the back of my van do as much damage as the chainsaw.

With all the new safety law we now have, it surprising that chainsaw have been left out. I know timber framers use them for roofing . I wonder if they are allowed on site/??/

Helmet with visor helps protect in kick back situations, the visor would get cut to bits but the peak on the helmet helps a lot.

Chainsaw trousers tend to help out when your not expecting trouble, the bar can come very close to your leg when your not cutting and looking for the next cut make (after a bit of use while standing the lazy thing to do is rest the chain saw body on your leg), add in a slack chain and its not long before your jeans have some designer slashes.

One important spot that won't be covered by steel toe capped boots is the top of the foot. Chainsaw boots are packed out with balistic nylon (used to be expect theres something newer out now) in the danger areas.

I know what you mean about using tools, you tend to instictively know when something might not be safe. Having said that I know more people that have cut off fingers with a circular saw than have had accidents with chain saws.

I won't even go down the road of talking about kick back, suffice it to say if you don't understand what it is and what causes it you should NOT even start a chainsaw..... and don't get me on about electric chainsaws which IMHO are even more dangerous than petrol saws.

Suspect the timber framers use a chainsaw for plunge cutting.... about the most dangerous thing you can do if you don't know the danger, apart from asking someone else to hold the timber while you cut it :rolleyes: