Damp patches in Ceiling

Tim Robbins

Hi,
I was visiting my Mother today and she pointed out some damp patches in the ceiling downstairs. I went upstairs and pulled back the carpet. The floorboards were wet as was the carpet.

Next step would be to get the floor boards up, but I am a bit worried about doing this. They are stuck down so I would need a drill or jig saw. She has central heating so more than likely it's a water pipe leaking or a central heating pipe leaking.

What should I do? Give up and call a plumber?

Any tips appreciated...

gsxr1

Tim Robbins wrote: »

Hi,
I was visiting my Mother today and she pointed out some damp patches in the ceiling downstairs. I went upstairs and pulled back the carpet. The floorboards were wet as was the carpet.

Next step would be to get the floor boards up, but I am a bit worried about doing this. They are stuck down so I would need a drill or jig saw. She has central heating so more than likely it's a water pipe leaking or a central heating pipe leaking.

What should I do? Give up and call a plumber?

Any tips appreciated...

If you dont know how to fix a leak, then there is no point going near your drill . get a pro to have a look.

ART6

Tim Robbins wrote: »

Hi,
I was visiting my Mother today and she pointed out some damp patches in the ceiling downstairs. I went upstairs and pulled back the carpet. The floorboards were wet as was the carpet.

Next step would be to get the floor boards up, but I am a bit worried about doing this. They are stuck down so I would need a drill or jig saw. She has central heating so more than likely it's a water pipe leaking or a central heating pipe leaking.

What should I do? Give up and call a plumber?

Any tips appreciated...

gsxr1 wrote: »

If you dont know how to fix a leak, then there is no point going near your drill . get a pro to have a look.

You can by handsaws that are designed for cutting floorboards that are in place, but whether they are actual boards or flooring grade manufactured panels they will be tounged and grooved so it's not simply a case of cutting across the width. A drill or a jigsaw are not likely to be much help.

Then, as gsxr1 says, before doing all that, do you know how to fax a leak if you find one? If it's a CH pipe it will be 15 mm copper or 8 or 10 mm plastic covered copper depending on whether the CH system is atmospheric or pressurised. Jointing is different in each case.

gsxr1

the reasons I gave this advise is because I tackle quite a few leaks as I had the job of snagging a whole estate of houses.

I learned through time how a Plumber would fix a loose compression fitting and weeping pipes.

But once. It all went pair shaped. I tightened a lose fitting and the whole lot came apart with a twist. Destroying a timber floor ceiling and paint work. Was very embarrassing to say the least .

I would drop a skill saw set a depth into the floor personally, but as you may not have access to such tools you run the risk of making things worse.
Jigsaws cant really be used as the blade may end up cutting more than the floor.

As art suggested , use hand tools if you can. Its hard work.


If you do decide to go ahead. Make sure you know how to turn the water and you avoid cables and pipe work.

Try to cut on the joists avoiding nails . This will mean you can simple replace the lifted timbers and screw them down with 30mm screws or what ever best suits. you are also less likely to hit the pipe.. screw down well to avoid sweaky boards.

if it is T&G try and cut half the board out rather than a small piece near a joint.
Make the hole big enough to get spanner in and turn them.

You may need a few bits of timber like 4x2 to create grounds and to give support to the piece you have cut out.

Tim Robbins

gsxr1 wrote: »

the reasons I gave this advise is because I tackle quite a few leaks as I had the job of snagging a whole estate of houses.

I learned through time how a Plumber would fix a loose compression fitting and weeping pipes.

But once. It all went pair shaped. I tightened a lose fitting and the whole lot came apart with a twist. Destroying a timber floor ceiling and paint work. Was very embarrassing to say the least .

I would drop a skill saw set a depth into the floor personally, but as you may not have access to such tools you run the risk of making things worse.
Jigsaws cant really be used as the blade may end up cutting more than the floor.

As art suggested , use hand tools if you can. Its hard work.


If you do decide to go ahead. Make sure you know how to turn the water and you avoid cables and pipe work.

Try to cut on the joists avoiding nails . This will mean you can simple replace the lifted timbers and screw them down with 30mm screws or what ever best suits. you are also less likely to hit the pipe.. screw down well to avoid sweaky boards.

if it is T&G try and cut half the board out rather than a small piece near a joint.
Make the hole big enough to get spanner in and turn them.

You may need a few bits of timber like 4x2 to create grounds and to give support to the piece you have cut out.

Thanks, we ended up noticing the shower head in the bath room was dripping, running down the tiles and through little gaps in the shower floor. We put some silicon down, so hope that will do the trick.

Thanks to all.