Making wooden sash windows airtight

MicktheMan

I'm looking for any information on how to make original wooden sash windows airtight. I seem to remember seeing somewhere a company who specialised in this but cannot remember who it was. As no specific company details can be posted here I would appreciate a pm if needed. I would appreciate if anybody has had this done to reply with their experience etc. Tia.

MicktheMan

MicktheMan wrote: »

I'm looking for any information on how to make original wooden sash windows airtight. I seem to remember seeing somewhere a company who specialised in this but cannot remember who it was. As no specific company details can be posted here I would appreciate a pm if needed. I would appreciate if anybody has had this done to reply with their experience etc. Tia.

Anybody ...?:cool:

RKQ

Existing timber windows can be draught sealed. Not sure they would pass a blow-door test. I'll pm a company name ( surprised it couldn't be googled as there was a few of them)

New windows can be manufactured in timber and well sealed.
Its also possible to get upve sash windows!

Good luck:)

S.L.F

MicktheMan wrote: »

I'm looking for any information on how to make original wooden sash windows airtight. I seem to remember seeing somewhere a company who specialised in this but cannot remember who it was. As no specific company details can be posted here I would appreciate a pm if needed. I would appreciate if anybody has had this done to reply with their experience etc. Tia.

I work in the area of<SNIP>...(deleted by Muffler)
There are a number of companies that claim do this work but most of them will try to get you do get new sashes installed instead of just working with the old sashes.

I don't believe it is possible to make sash windows airtight but you can make them far better than they are now.

The main problem for the DIYer is that draught proofing sash windows normally means removing the old staff and parting beads they rarely survive being removed by an amateur.

The other problem is when a DIYer comes across rot and the like they generally leave them it or cover it up basically saving a problem for the future.

The proper procedure with rot is to cut it away till you come to reasonably good wood then put some Ronseal rot treatment (or similiar I prefer Ronseal ) on it then a 2 pack filler or if it is a large section of rot then the section should be replaced with new wood.

When draught proofing you also need to route a small groove into the mid rail of the bottom sash in order to put a pile carrier into it for the draught excluder.

The other big problem for the novice is getting the weights to work properly when you it comes time for the windows to be reinstalled.

It should be noted that it is quite common for the thickness of the glass to have been changed over the years so your weights measured for 3mm will have 4mm glass thus you'll need extra weighs for your windows.

It is a good practice to get new fittings pulleys, fasteners (lockable and otherwise), ring pulls and other stuff (pole hooks & holders, child proof closers)

You will also need to get new cords for the windows as it is a good practice to replace the cords every time you work on the windows.